Touring Tailgate Struts... Replacement Question

[sse34]

That's not what it says in the BMW instructions...don't know where I got this (sorry)...but I added it to my "stash" of instructions in case I needed it someday.

Now, I get a chance to share it with you. Feel free to move your cursor over the pic and (right click) then save it to your cpu...you then can print it out or load it on a laptop and show it/share it with your garage.

Instructions for replacing the struts for the E34 Touring's Tailgate Glass Hatch:

AWESOME THANK YA.....gonne take me awhile to get witch comes first >.< im about to run outside and do it now... but thanks (if it works )

[upallnight]

It would be extremely difficult to change these with a screw driver or pry bar. In fact, I'm not even sure how it'd be possible without the special tool. The extensive dismantling procedure is necessary to give clearance for R&R. Even then, it's tight.

I done both of mine with just a long and heavy screw driver. You should verify that the new strut matches the existing strut. I got a couple of struts that were a little bit too long. Had to return them.

[M Quick]

Thanks, definately gonna try out the screwdriver-trick if i can't find an appropiate pipe!
And bump for a great informational thread!

sadly, that isnt the case... the harness is attached to the glass

Glass opening is definitely as just as bad if not worse than whole hatch opening.

??
On my tourings the only wires that's been attached to the glass is for the 3rd brake light and for the defroster on the left side. Otherwise it's all free from wires following it up???

Also the cable guides that is screwed and has a bend in them attaches both to the hatch and not the glass. And the hinges goes inside the hatch hinges so it cannot really touch the wires attached to the hatch either.

So it can definately not be worse, in fact(?) the only wires that can break down is for the 3rd brake light and for the defroster and nothing else??

[cddallara]

Bump, Thanks Greg! How is this not a sticky yet? (not the first to suggest it)

[cddallara]

Looks like I'll be using my head to hold up the glass for a bit. Local dealer wants $30/ea for the moflickers!!

[kricker]

Whooops. This was supposed to go in the e39 section.

Moved.

[TouringGuy]

I feel bad starting threads unnecessarily... yeah... I mean it. Anyone know where I can get the tail gate glass struts to buy at a reasonable price?

Pelicanparts sell them. Price is a little much for what it is though.

[cddallara]

Pelicanparts sell them. Price is a little much for what it is though.

mine just came in, got them at thebmwpartstore.com. Will be attempting this tomorrow or soon.

[cddallara]

Well, 4 of the six shocks I ordered got lost in UPS somewhere, but doing the glass struts now. Small PITA with. All the plastic BS, and snapping them in blind, but could be much worse!

BTW 1/2" EMT (thin wall electrical conduit) makes a perfect 'special tool'.

[ltflint]

Well, 4 of the six shocks I ordered got lost in UPS somewhere, but doing the glass struts now. Small PITA with. All the plastic BS, and snapping them in blind, but could be much worse!

BTW 1/2" EMT (thin wall electrical conduit) makes a perfect 'special tool'.

Did you get it knocked out? I see this in the not too distant future for mine.

[cddallara]

Did you get it knocked out? I see this in the not too distant future for mine.

Yup! Hardest part was trying not to break plastic tabs off upon disassembly. I found it a bit tricky to reseat the passenger side inner mount, the driver side popped right on. All in all about a half hour job for me.

[ltflint]

Finally knocked this out today. Used the 1/2 thinwall conduit. Worked like a charm. Vote for sticky in the DIY section.

[sse34]

there are like 20 threads that should be in the DIY and they arnt... MY vote for a better admin

[NastyNate635]

sweet diagrams these are useful for my touring!!!

[upallnight]

My garage says the headliner has to be removed to replace the tailgate (glass lid) struts on my touring? Is this true? #1 on this diagram

Thanks

Andrew

Find yourself a garage that knows something about the car. They'll remove the headliner and scratch their head trying to figure how to remove the old strut and install the new strut. A long screw driver or a long skinny pry bar is your friend.

hardware stores will have in the gardening department a little fork weed puller that works just right. About 15 inches long with a little fork at the end...under $4

Silscreen BMW instead of ACE on that tool and you can ask for ten time the price at ACE.

[Chileburger]

This is an excellent thread. I just did mine yesterday, followed the instructions and i was done in an hour or so. The tool would definitely come in handy but it is not necessary. Also be cautious when removing the plastic bits as they are delicate from age.

[Chileburger]

Sorry, double post.

[rogersjr]

After my regular mechanic could not replace both of the glass hatch struts I took the cat to BMW who told me the whole glass hatch needed replacing ex Germany as the pin for the right hand strut had broken off. A different BMW dealer is not sure which part to replace but thinks that it is part number 3 at http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E3...for_trunk_lid/

Does anyone know if this right hand bar has a pin on it to accept the small glass hatch strut? I intend to replace the struts myself as no-one else seems able to. It also seems to me that the struts need circlips which could explain why the left strut had popped off.

[frstevec]

thank you to all who contributed to this thread.
I replaced the tailgate struts and wow, the tailgate flies up. Today with the help here I replaced the tailgate window struts. I used the long screw driver and a piece of plastic hose to hold the strut in place while I pressed it on with the screwdriver.
The problem I had was getting the rear connection made. The strut was just a tad too long-- I read about one being returned as too long. So I removed the new one and measured it against the old one - same size!? Reinstalled the strut and this time I closed the tailgate to fit the rear strut to the post; with the window open fully with a stick it was just right. With the tailgate fully open, it would not fit.

oh btw I bought the fittings to do redo these struts and have the posts that install inside the roof-- I decided mine did not need changing :>) Anyone need them?

aside-- I asked my son who also has a 95 525it about his tailgate window; he didn't know it opened. Ha.
Steve

[chunkster]

Just wanted to add some pictures to this thread as I just replaced my glass hatch dampers today.

Made myself my own tool to remove and install the glass hatch “dampers”.
Cut a ¾” PVC electrical conduit pipe to about 12 inches in length.
Increased the inside diameter of one end of the conduit using a 5/8” spade drill bit as I found this fit perfectly over the damper body when you remove or install it.



Here’s what the tool is supposed to do when it’s being used to remove/install the damper.



When removing the old damper, slide the tool over the damper body and slowly push down on the tool and at the same time rotate the tool so as to “pop” the damper off it’s mount. Just pull the tool out and the damper and the boot should just come right out.





Remove the old rubber boot and place it on the new damper. Then slide the new damper into the homemade tool and line it up so that the ball end faces down an opposite line to the arrow. That way, you know that the arrow coincides with the top of the damper when your trying to pop the end of the damper onto the pivot inside the roof.



This is what you’re aiming for:



Slide the new damper into the hole and try to “feel” the end of the damper so that you position it over the ball end. It’ll take a few tries but you should be able to feel a click when you’ve successfully seated the damper onto the pivot end. When I replaced mine, one side made a click but the other side didn’t so it may vary.



You’ll know when it’s seated when you remove the tool from the damper body as it’ll stay put instead of pulling the entire damper out again.



You may need to slide the tool again so as to push the rubber boot back into place sealing the opening.



Slide the other end over the pivot that is attached to the glass hatch and button it up with the C-clip.



Put everything back together and enjoy the fact that your glass hatch will now stay open when you load items through this hatch. No more propping the glass hatch with an umbrella…

Look ma, no hands….

[enigmaticdream]

Awesome DIY!

[stilljester]

Update: Used this thread to replace my struts this morning, took about 30min. I would highly recommend the pipe technique other members have noted above. I purchased a piece of 1/2" electrical conduit at Home Depot for $2.03. The fit was very tight (ie perfect) so I'd recommend taking your replacement parts with you as I found the struts didn't fit in the first piece I selected at the store. If anyone needs this "special tool" for your car happy to send it; just cover shipping.

[deadedwalking]

@Chunkster, thank you for posting those photos. Very helpful!

[Fantom Infinity]

Anyone know the best place to get replacement shocks these days??

EDIT: Did some research, Autohaus strikes again with the best price and free shipping!

[Fantom Infinity]

Thanks to everyone for all the tips/photos so far. A little update from my go at this:

My local Lowe's didn't have any conduit that fit snugly. 3/4" was too big and 1/2" was too small. Upon scouring the house for something that would work I found one of the sections of a Swiffer handle works perfectly.

I lost one of the rubber boots inside the hole, though so be careful and don't do that.

I think it's best to put the strut on, then slide the rubber boot on after you have the strut attached to the dowel. It's really hard to get the strut onto the dowel when you can't see because the boot is blocking your view.