Touring Tailgate Struts... Replacement Question

[andrewcconti]

My garage says the headliner has to be removed to replace the tailgate (glass lid) struts on my touring? Is this true? #1 on this diagram

Thanks

Andrew

[Qsilver7]

My garage says the headliner has to be removed to replace the tailgate (glass lid) struts on my touring? Is this true? #1 on this diagram

Thanks

Andrew

That's not what it says in the BMW instructions...don't know where I got this (sorry)...but I added it to my "stash" of instructions in case I needed it someday.

Now, I get a chance to share it with you. Feel free to move your cursor over the pic and (right click) then save it to your cpu...you then can print it out or load it on a laptop and show it/share it with your garage.

Instructions for replacing the struts for the E34 Touring's Tailgate Glass Hatch:

[andrewcconti]

I did not think you had to remove the headliner to replace a "wear item" seemed very "un german".

Now where to get the "special tool" required for the job?

Thanks again


Andrew

[Qsilver7]

Have you checked Bruno's site yet? http://www.bmwe34.net/ Or searched the archives at http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e34/ forum or http://www.bimmer.info/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10. I'm sure someone on either of those forums have replaced these struts and wrote something.

For some reason, I remember someone saying that they used a screwdriver with a long shaft to pop the struts off...but don't take my word on that...that memory is coming from a DEEP corner of my mind filled with lots of "cobb webs"

[X Mon]

I believe Shayne on www.bimmerboard.com 's E34 site has changed them out.

[kalevera]

It would be extremely difficult to change these with a screw driver or pry bar. In fact, I'm not even sure how it'd be possible without the special tool. The extensive dismantling procedure is necessary to give clearance for R&R. Even then, it's tight.

[brosher]

Here is Shanye's post on it:

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/367848

[attack eagle]

good find... saved to favorites list.

[BimmerMeUp]

After dismantling as noted, I popped my old ones out with a long screwdriver. I made my own special tool out of a hollow tube from an old bathroom fixture (conduit might work) to pop the new ones into place.

As you disassemble the covers and such from the rear, be careful to note the routing of the harness and the hose for the washer. After I buttoned everything back up, I discovered the rear window washer wasn't working (kink in the hose) and had to partially disassemble again to straighten things out.

Anther thing, watch those little e-clips very carefully. It's easy to lose them....

[andrewcconti]

I was thinking along the lines of a conduit or small diameter pipe too. Glad to read it worked for you.

I will be sure to post my result.

Andrew

[Qsilver7]

Take pics as you go along if you can...the more visuals we have...the less mysterious this procedure becomes.

[peete]

I know I'm dredging up an old thread here but I just replaced the lid struts in my touring and found myself here. Thought I would add some comments to help the next person.
1. tools to make this easy; a set of booger hooks and a 2' long flat tip screwdriver.
2. someone to hold the flashlight or wear a work light.
3. to gain easy access, remove the black trim panels items 3&4
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...86&hg=51&fg=65

next take the curved cover off of the wiring at the hinge. Pull all of it out of the way and zip tie it to the trunk strut. The socket of the glass strut sits on top of the socket so you want to pry up with your 2' long screwdiver to pop it free. You don't need to pull the boot off to do this. Next use the sheperd's hook booger hook to pull off the circlip on the back of the strut. Pull out the strut.
To install, hold the end of the new strut with needle nose pliers and set the socket of the strut on the ball. While holding it, and this is where the flashlight holder comes in handy, place that 2' screwdriver blade on the socket of the strut and pry down until it snaps in. Now put the boot on the strut and push it into place with your 2' screwdriver, then attach the other end of the strut.
Now is a good time to inspect and/or repair any broken wiring in the hinge area. If you do just remember to NOT splice a wire where it broke. Cut a section out and splice in a new length so there is new wire in the hinge area.
A dealer mechanic did a splice repair right where it broke when my dad owned the car. It lasted @ a year. A dealer mechanic. Face palm. I won't name the dealer but it's the only BMW dealer in Newport News, VA.
Anyway, sorry, no pictures. I can't seems to upload them on this site and I'm not patient enough to figure it out.
Oh yeah, clean all of that nasty crap out of that area before you put in the new struts. I pulled off the trunk gasket and went to town. It's Alpine White again.

[Elekta]

hardware stores will have in the gardening department a little fork weed puller that works just right. About 15 inches long with a little fork at the end...under $4

[upallnight]

It would be extremely difficult to change these with a screw driver or pry bar. In fact, I'm not even sure how it'd be possible without the special tool. The extensive dismantling procedure is necessary to give clearance for R&R. Even then, it's tight.

I changed my with a long and thick screw driver. You need a pretty heavy screw driver to pop the strut from the ball socket that is attached car body.

Once you get the strut out measure the center to ball socket of the strut and compare it with the new. There is a batch of struts that are not the same length as the original strut and you will never be able to put on the new strut on, no matter how hard you try.

It's nice having the glass struts fix since you don't need to raise the entire hatch to toss things into the rear cargo area of the Touring. I figure the less I need to raise the entire hatch, the less chance of the the harness breaking.

[attack eagle]

It's nice having the glass struts fix since you don't need to raise the entire hatch to toss things into the rear cargo area of the Touring. I figure the less I need to raise the entire hatch, the less chance of the the harness breaking.

sadly, that isnt the case... the harness is attached to the glass

Glass opening is definitely as just as bad if not worse than whole hatch opening.

[tandemracer]

I just changed my glass struts. To snap them in and out I used a small section of aluminum tubing that I found at Lowe's. The tube was a perfect fit over the struts and made it super easy to remove and replace them.

To remove you just get everything disconnected per the previous instructions, slide the tube over the strut and then push up until you feel it pop out of the socket. For the install I just put each strut into position by hand so that I could more easily feel the socket make contact, then I slid the tube over the strut and pushed down until I felt it click. Piece of cake.

[Elekta]

show us the tubing tool please. What's the inside diameter of the tubing?

[AquilaBMW]

show us the tubing tool please. What's the inside diameter of the tubing?

+1 on that.

[attack eagle]

I would guess just slightly larger than the OD of the strut.

I get exactly what he did...
He made a larger handle over the strut so he could get leverage to pop the hidden ball socket in. He 'sleeved' the strut, like you would when using a pipe over a breaker bar.

[tandemracer]

Here are some pictures of the tubing. The outside diameter is 3/4 inch, the inside diameter is about 0.63".

[AquilaBMW]

Okay... just so I get this correctly in my slightly retarded mind, and to add AE's comments to your's (Tandem)... You slip that pipe over the strut? Does that mean you removed the strut where it attaches to the rear glass first?

Also, when you "pop" it out of the mount, this is via a lateral tug or movement right? From the Realoem diagram, it looks like the mount or pin the strut attaches to sits horizontally.

[tandemracer]

Okay... just so I get this correctly in my slightly retarded mind, and to add AE's comments to your's (Tandem)... You slip that pipe over the strut? Does that mean you removed the strut where it attaches to the rear glass first?

Also, when you "pop" it out of the mount, this is via a lateral tug or movement right? From the Realoem diagram, it looks like the mount or pin the strut attaches to sits horizontally.

Detach back end of strut from the glass first and then slip the pipe over it. The pin that the strut attaches to inside the roof is vertical, so just lever the pipe so the front end of the strut goes straight up. It doesn't take much force.

The picture on realoem shows the pin 90 degrees from the actual orientation in the vehicle. With the headliner out you can see that the pin (number 23) threads straight up into the roof of the car, NOT at an angle as shown in the picture.

[AquilaBMW]

Detach back end of strut from the glass first and then slip the pipe over it. The pin that the strut attaches to inside the roof is vertical, so just lever the pipe so the front end of the strut goes straight up. It doesn't take much force.

The picture on realoem shows the pin 90 degrees from the actual orientation in the vehicle. With the headliner out you can see that the pin (number 23) threads straight up into the roof of the car, NOT at an angle as shown in the picture.

Tandem - It all makes sense now. Thank you very much.

Guys - This is great information with very helpful hints and descriptions. I am sure it will help many a touring owner. Anyway we can "stickie" this in the DIY section? Mods?

[AquilaBMW]

I feel bad starting threads unnecessarily... yeah... I mean it. Anyone know where I can get the tail gate glass struts to buy at a reasonable price?

[Yahweh]

This totally needs to be made a sticky in the DIY section