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Thread: E32 with dead battery help

  1. #1
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    E32 with dead battery help

    My E32 battery is dead and the mechanical key release doesn't want to function. Is it possible to pop the hood from the outside or is there a accessible place to hook up 12v to energize the power locks?

    PM or email if you don't want to post in open forum.

  2. #2
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    Not sure if there is a place under the hood or not, but the battery will be under your right rear seat (at least mine is). You're going to need to get inside, probably with a locksmith if your key doesn't work. Or maybe you can order a new key that's cut by VIN#? Hard to say b/c of the age thou...

    Josh
    Last edited by shogun; 09-16-2019 at 09:32 PM.

  3. #3
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    scroll down to post #7 by Q, might help you out: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...ight=emergency
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  4. #4
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    WAIT...don't follow the instruction in post #7 in the link above...those are the instructions for the E38...you have an E32 which is slightly different and REQUIRES that you pull upward on the door handle.

    For the E32 7 series...follow these instructions below (a rewrite of instructions from the e32 owners manual) on how to unlock the doors when there is no power:

    BMW designed a procedure to unlock the doors when there's been a loss of power...and if you have an owners manual...you can read the procedure as it was intended. Don't be surprised that it may take a little force to get the lock open...what is normally electronically actuated is now being manually manipulated.

    The procedure first is to try to unlock the PASSENGER door (which turns in a different direction than the driver's door)
    • insert key into lock
    • pull up & hold the handle while turning the key to the emergency unlock position
    • if the door pin does NOT rise high enough to unlock the door...PUMP the door handle while turning the key to the unlock position



    If the passenger side doesn't open, then try the same procedure on the driver's door (remember that the lock turns in a different direction):

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  5. #5
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    Once you get inside the car...you can pop the hood and then hook up a battery charger to the remote positive battery post and the negative hex nut on the driver's shock tower.

    The remote positve post may be located under a black plastic cap with a red "+" symbol on it...sometimes the plastic cap has broken off and the hex shaped positve post is not covered. You can see the location of the positve post and the negative "hex" bolt if you follow the green arrows in the pic below:

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  6. #6
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    Thanks for the replies all, like I said (sort of) in my OP, neither door will open using the emergency procedure. Guess it's time to call the locksmith to snake the hood latch.

  7. #7
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    You can't believe how many times I've read what you've written.

    PLEASE...go back and try again...REMEMBER that the locks turn in different directions depending on which side you use....AND...if you PUMP the door handle...that usually will work to get the pin to rise.

    PLEASE...PLEASE....try it again...and you usually have to use some force since you are raising the pin manually when it normally is electronically actuated.

    Again, I've read the same thing many times when an owner has given up in defeat...but if you do it correctly and follow the tips...you may save yourself a lot of money given to a locksmith.


    Passenger Side - turn the lock CLOCKWISE
    Driver's Side - turn the lock COUNTER CLOCKWISE
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  8. #8
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    Yeah, I get it. The key goes to full unlock position. I've done this procedure on my old 525 so I've got an idea on the force required and I'm way beyond it. I've never had to do this on this vehicle (which was used) so it's possible the mechanism is broken/frozen. But, I will give it another shot.
    Last edited by shogun; 09-16-2019 at 09:32 PM.

  9. #9
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    Update - after almost a full can of lock-ez into the keyhole and rapping the crap out of the door with the palm of my hand and damn near breaking the key off, a grinding crunching sound was heard and the pin popped up.

    Thanks for the push.

  10. #10
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    Congrats,

    and thanks to Q.

    Grease everything inside, and before that clean the whole system.
    http://bmwe32.masscom.net/sean750/do...kMechanism.htm

    I did not disassemble the doorlock system as shown, but I removed it from the car, used brake cleaner and then used diesel and left all in that diesel for some time that old grease softened, then again used brake cleaner and compressed air, then used new grease and it works like a charm now.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Slamdunkpro View Post
    Thanks for the push.
    You're welcome. So many times I hesitate to suggest trying it again because I'm sure it annoys the hell out of the poster for various reasons.

    Thanks for posting back your success...I'm sure this whole thread may be beneficial to somebody else in the future...from the request, to the answer, to the unresolved defeat, to the plea to keep trying...and finally to the succesfull end result!

    Your success made my day!
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  12. #12
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    Q, thanks for redirecting also

    is this already stickied @ E32/E38.org??? should be, no?
    '01 740iL with Sport Package born on SEP 27, 2000
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by kromdom View Post
    ...is this already stickied @ E32/E38.org??? should be, no?
    I believe there is a link that describes the emergency unlock procedure on the e32 page at e38.org...except I believe it's just a written instruction...there's no diagrams of the different direction the locks turn.

    Kinda odd that BMW doesn't even put a door lock cylinder on the E38's passenger side. Hmmm.
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  14. #14
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    Good to see things get worked out

  15. #15
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    Good job Q!
    After getting back from Asia last night & getting to my E32 only
    to find that my doors would not open! It was cold the past week here in
    Vegas so time to check the battery! Finally tried the emergency way & it worked!

    My car started right up, what is the problem then?
    Last edited by M1 #43022; 12-10-2007 at 02:45 PM.

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  16. #16
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    Dont worry, as long as you have a key

    As desribed above for the passenger door, for emergency breaking into ones own car. Beware not to lock yourself in after this procedure.

    There are three key positions. Turn clockwise, until the handle has to be lifted. Continue with lifted handle, until resistence is felt. If resistence is felt, just give the key in the same clockwise direction another twist, and the door should be open.
    If this does not happen, well, if you have the right E32 model, it must work. So you just did not put enough pressure or force to pass the resistence.


    Now you want to recharge your battery. Open hood and use cables to connect from other running vehicle, and all doors should be able to be opened.

    In case you want to completely recharge the battery, the battery can be found hidden under the rear/back seat. Lifting that may be difficult sometimes. First remove all electronic gearing for seat adjustment controls, etc.. If you do not have those, it is a matter of sitting arms - putting arms around the legs, gripping between the legs at the seat cushing, as central as possible between the legs, and pulling back upward and backward. First try it with little force. If it does not work, just put the force of the legs one or more gears up everytime, and if still not solved: give it a strong pull, trying to fall backward with the back, using the push from the legs.
    That should do it. Move over to the other side of the seat and do the same there. The battery is on the opposite side of the drivers seat, behind the drivers seat is a fuse compartiment.
    Please beware that once the resistence from the clips of the backseat has gone, you will have to rebalance, meaning you want to sit again immediately. But keep the legs you from preventing to lock the seat again, caused by this reflex to rebalance oneself by sitting down again.

    I would advice against using the trunk light.
    If you can always enter the trunk, when everything is operating, what I would advice would be something like this: under the part of the back seat, where the battery is found, in the front of it is a plate that can easily be removed. It seemed to me that the bolt underneath is for recharging, the battery. So find the bolt connector inside to the battery and take a wire to lead to the trunk, in case you might need it some day. Just see to it that it is protected by a rubber cover. Lead it to the trunk compartiment somewhere you are able to find it easily and it causes no harm to anybody not knowing its use. Place a sticker on it for dangerous cable. Just have a little reserve 12V normal battery also there in case, one would need to have just enough electric power to open the front doors.

    Please include in any descriptions of the trunk light bulb method, how to connect it precisely, so with a clear picture of the wires, in order to prevent mistakes.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by e32m60v8 View Post
    ... under the part of the back seat, where the battery is found, in the front of it is a plate that can easily be removed. It seemed to me that the bolt underneath is for recharging, the battery...
    Do not connect anything to the post below that plate (on the e32 & e34)...that is a quick disconnect for the battery...it allows you to do it quickly without removing the rear cushion of the back seat.

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  18. #18
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    Opening "e32" door.

    Hiya All, I have just read "Qs" Way of opening a "BMW E32" Door with a DEAD BATTERY. With respect to "Q" I have had mine for over 6 years, & this is the first time "Over The Very Cold Spell" that the battery has died. (Should have charged it & disconnected terminal before xmas layup!) Anyway back to opening the door. If you turn the key 3 or 4 times "ANTI CLOCKWISE" on the "PASSENGER SIDE" with the handle half or full up, Up pops the pin & "YOUR IN"
    I know the manual says:PASSENGER SIDE-CLOCKWISE. & even gives you a DIAGRAM. But in all my years of "BEAMERS" 3s/5s/6s/7s. They are never 100%!
    (the manuals not the cars) As a lot of members have said, you can try for days Pumping The Handle & Turning The Key "CLOCKWISE" Nothing!
    I am a new member & only came by this site by luck, & by luck dropped in on BMW 7 SERIES E32. I read a lot of your comments, as for the DRIVERS DOOR Forget it! So unless some previous owner (its only had 2)of my 1993 730i SE. Has changed the barrels on the locks! The MANUAL IS WRONG!
    It took me "3 min's" Tops, to open my PASENGER DOOR. Insert the Master Key- Lift the Handle, Half or Full- turn The Key "ANTI-CLOCKWISE" 3 to 6
    Times-Lifting as you go-Up Pops The Pin! Your In. Pull The Release handle To open the Bonnet! you Know the Rest. I hope this helps some of you E32 Owners (Great Cars) But Not In The Snow!!!
    Please let me know!
    Kind Regards, & All The Best For 201 Mike.
    Last edited by Riosplup; 12-30-2010 at 09:15 AM.

  19. #19
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    Aloha Q,
    Thank you, this procedure works.
    I didn't realize it takes more force than usual to do an emergency unlock. Use two hands to twist the key because of the leverage needed to push the pin up.
    Thanks again.

  20. #20
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    Q, wow, you are the man. I gave up on the emergency Passenger side myself after probably 30 attempts. At suggestion of other forums, I focused on several ways to charge the battery such as trunk lights.... started to take undercarriage apart to gain access to starter to recharge the battery. I got very frustrated and even began taking front end parts off to look at alternator contact points.... and even trying to locate the hood latch from under the car. After a FULL DAY and multiple online searches, I read your comment to keep pressing forward with the Emergency Passenger lock secret trick. I took slamdunkpro's advice and bought a fresh can of PB blaster Penetrating oil and soaked the keyhole and door lever as much as possible. Waalaah! THe door latch went up after almost breaking it the first couple of hours.

  21. #21
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    Here once more with with diagram http://www.bmwe34.net/E34main/Trouble/Locked.htm
    and a youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1XQt4GowLGI

    BMW E34 5-Series and E32 7-Series Locked Out – Dead Battery Emergency Entry
    Q
    I’ve got this serious problem with my 92 535i. The central locking system has shut down and my doors are locked. I can only open the trunk. The trunk will not lock at all. I’ve tried the key in both doors…..the key does bounce back but the latch does not release. Also my battery has run down, (not sure if the locking sys. runs off the battery.) Is there any thing I can do from the inside of the trunk to open the doors.

    A

    This answer applies to all BMW E34 (5-series 89-96, 525i, 525it, 530i, 530it, 535i, 540i, M5) and E32 (7-series 88-93, 735i, 735il, 740i, 740il, 750il) models.

    We have four different procedures that you can try in order to gain entry to an E34 or E32 BMW that has a dead battery, and the doors are locked.

    1) Emergency key entry: This should work on most E34 (5-series 89-96) and E32 (7-series 88-94) models, when you have a dead battery. At the passenger door, insert the key, pull up the door handle and then turn the key to the unlock position. This should unlock the door. Note that we have talked to E34 & E32 owners who have not been able to gain entry using this method. If this does not work, see the procedures below.

    2) If the trunk can be opened, we can apply 12-volts (from another battery) to the positive wire for the trunk illumination lights. At either of the tail light harness plugs or the trunk lid light, apply the positive from your remote battery to the red/white wire (this is the trunk illumination lighting circuit). Connect the negative from the battery to a good chassis ground or any brown wire. As long as the vehicle battery is not so dead that it is internally shorted, this should put enough power into the system to allow the door locks to function.

    3) Similar to the #2 above, we can apply 12-volts to the black/red wire for the central locking system. The trunk lock actuator is mounted in the trunk lid. The harness plug for the actuator will have a black/red wire. Apply the positive from your remote battery to this wire and the negative to a chassis ground or any brown wire. As long as the vehicle battery is not so dead that it is internally shorted, this should put enough power into the system to allow the door locks to function.

    If the battery is so dead that the above steps do not work, you will need to apply enough power from your remote battery (or a charger) to put a bit of charge into the vehicle battery. This can be done as follows:

    4) Jack up and safely support the front of the vehicle, so that you can get under the engine compartment. Apply the positive cable from your remote battery (or charger) to the large positive terminal on the starter solenoid or the positive output terminal on the rear of the alternator. Connect the negative to a good chassis grounding point. If the locks do not work right away, give some time for the vehicle battery to gain a bit of charge and then try again.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  22. #22
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    One last piece of feedback - each time I had to use the emergency unlock procedure on the passenger door, the passenger door lock mechanism was broken afterwards and the door would not lock - Both of my projects currently have this issue, haven't had time to dig into it or fix it yet.
    Current Collection:
    1993 740iL - daily driver; 1994 740iL - project #1; 1994 740i - project #2
    1991 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon - beast of burden & tool/parts hauler

  23. #23
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    The emergency unlock is known by lifting the passenger door handle and then turning the key over a certain resistance.
    Even with a dead battery the trunk can be opened with the key by turning it anti-clockwise and then push the lid unlock button.

    To avoid wrong connection of power to the wires or to blow the fuse:
    A few pointers to connecting power to the trunk light:
    Firstly, the trunk light is a good place to connect power as it is constantly connected to the battery via Fuse 33.
    However, you must only use a charger at this point, and only one that can supply a maximum of 10A. If you use a fully-charged battery you will blow Fuse 33.
    The trunk light has two wires going to it, RED/WHITE is the positive supply, connect the chargers +ve terminal to here.
    Connect the charger -ve lead to somewhere on the chassis.....this removes any possibility of reverse polarity.
    When the charger is connected and charging, allow 10 minutes before trying the central locking, this is just enough time to get enough charge in the battery to supply the locks.
    If you have not got a charger you can use a battery but MUST connect it via a 55W (headlamp) bulb. This reduces the current to a safe level.

    DO NOT connect to any other lighting point, these go via the LKM or General Module and it is not a good idea to stuff power up these!

    The trunk can always be opened with the key, it does not need power, so you always have access to the trunk.

    As a last resort you can try to open the hood and jump the battery. Here is how it is done on a 750 but the grille design changes slightly for a 735. Anyway this can be a good starting point: Drill a 1/4-inch hole in the black plastic part of grille as pointed to by the white arrow in the photo. Then bend a cheap screwdriver at the tip as a hook and insert the hook two to three inches into the hole, with the hook oriented towards the center. If you are lucky the hook will catch a small latch which releases the hood.
    Good luck. http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/c...pen%20hood.jpg


    Relay Module mod (disable deadlocks) http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/s...dule%20004.jpg
    From pin 4 on the black plug: one trace goes to the jumper wire and one trace goes to the component- the end that's under the pins. The jumper wire leads to, from what I can see, the relay directly above pin 4's post. Which trace do I cut?
    -------------
    E32Fan commented: Deadlocks
    .... can share some experience with Deadlocking. Print page 5126-02 to 04 at http://www.e38.org/e32/e32_88_etm.pdf Notice that there are 2 motors inside the 4 Door Lock Motors M12 - 14, and only 1 motor inside the trunk and fuel flap lock motors M16 and M17.

    The extra motor, driven by the BLK wire at pin 1 of the lock motor connectors, is the actual Deadlock function. It sets a pawl that prevents the other motor from unlocking the door. It is supposed to be Deadlocked by the alarm system, and then Deadlock-Released 30 minutes later, or when a key-holder unlocks the passenger door.

    It is a beastly thing. I recommend cutting the pin 1 BLK wires, so the Deadlock can never trigger again.

    Perhaps your rear door locks got a Deadlock pulse, and never received a Deadlock-Release pulse. This is strange because all 4 door motors share the same BLK Deadlock wire. Of course the front doors are privileged because they have key locks, which the rear doors lack. Perhaps the Battery was weak when the last Deadlock-Release pulse was sent, and the rear doors did not fully execute this command.

    I will do some experiments tomorrow and post my findings. I'm certain that you can send your own Deadlock-Release signal. Since electricity caused the problem, it would be nice if electricity could fix it!

    Here's what to do: Move the driver's seat fully forward so as to expose the B pillar trim. Remove this trim and locate the loom of wires that runs to the rear of the door connector X273. See pg 7100-12 Fig 2 and pg 8500-07 for the X273 pin positions.

    In the loom there are 3 wires of the same diameter - BLU, WHT, BLK. Locate the BLK wire that goes to pin 11 of X273 and cut it a few inches from X273. Tape up the cut BLK wire that disappears under the floor. Strip off a bit of insulation from the cut BLK wire that goes to X273.

    Now you will need a 12V source - a booster battery pack, or a battery charger, say. Measure the voltage across its leads to be sure that 12V is available - some chargers will not produce any voltage until they sense that a battery is connected with the proper polarity. You could even use jumpers from another car, but be certain the two chassis do not touch! You cannot use your own car's battery, because we need -12V rather than +12V.

    Connect the POS battery lead to the car's chassis anywhere you can find bare metal. Now briefly touch the NEG battery wire to the bare BLK wire. This will Release the Deadlock pawl and you should be able to open the left rear door in the usual ways.
    Tape up the BLK wire (Do NOT splice the 2 BLK wires back together!) and replace the B pillar trim. Repeat this job for X274 in the passenger side B pillar. BTW this works because the RM is grounding all 3 of the central locking motor wires - BLK, BLU, WHT. The BLK wire is not our friend. It's only function is to cause us woe.
    --------------
    I emailed him directly about this issue after you posted this a week ago. He advised me to cut a trace on the RM. I posted the pic here so he could clarify exactly which trace from pin 4. Here's a shot of the other side of the board.
    http://www.bimmerboard.com/members/s...le%20002_1.JPG
    -------------------
    It works (or doesn't, which is good)-
    Here's my response from Steve: The "component" is the resistor connected across the coil, as shown in the schematic below (pg 5126-02). Its function is to dissipate the energy stored in the coil, when the coil is turned off.

    We want to cut the trace to the coil, so it can never again pull the contacts in. Cutting the trace to the resistor is optional - it will make no difference. Here's the acid test: Connect 12V across pins 4 and 15 of the BLK connector X258 and see that Relay #10 snaps in. Then cut your trace(s) and see that the relay does not operate. Mission accomplished!
    I scraped the trace out just above the red dot I have on pin4 in the picture above. Tested it with 12V and the relay does not close. No more deadlocks.
    Last edited by shogun; 11-19-2018 at 05:34 AM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  24. #24
    Join Date
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    Red face Don't give up....

    Quote Originally Posted by tonymc821 View Post
    Q, wow, you are the man. I gave up on the emergency Passenger side myself after probably 30 attempts. At suggestion of other forums, I focused on several ways to charge the battery such as trunk lights.... started to take undercarriage apart to gain access to starter to recharge the battery. I got very frustrated and even began taking front end parts off to look at alternator contact points.... and even trying to locate the hood latch from under the car. After a FULL DAY and multiple online searches, I read your comment to keep pressing forward with the Emergency Passenger lock secret trick. I took slamdunkpro's advice and bought a fresh can of PB blaster Penetrating oil and soaked the keyhole and door lever as much as possible. Waalaah! THe door latch went up after almost breaking it the first couple of hours.
    I tried for several hours of the pin moving but not enough...I sprayed a bit of Kroil oil, (wd40/pb/some penetrating oil) into the passenger cylinder and tried several more times...(clockwise for me) and it finally clicked up...SO KUDOS for the keep trying bit...

    now...I cannot get any of the other doors open or even pull up the locking pins...any suggestions?
    do I need to charge, replace the battery? would be much easier if I could get the back door open.

  25. #25
    Join Date
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    probably something wrong with the grommets inside which connect the links https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...light=grommets
    if nothing helps you have to remove the door panels like this http://bmwe32.masscom.net/johan/dead...cked_door.html
    more details on that site under fixes>>> body & interior http://bmwe32.masscom.net/

    Open the hood, much easier to use a jumper cable to battery plus post and ground, in case your battery is dead
    Emergency Hood Release https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...y-Hood-Release
    Last edited by shogun; 09-16-2019 at 09:37 PM.
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

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