I need to replace the lower timing cover on my car which requires that I remove the front crank hub nut. The Bentley manual lists this as torqued to 300 ft/lbs (410Nm).
Questions:
1) Bentley manual says I need a 3/4 drive (!) breaker bar and 22mm socket. Has anyone done this before? I've already researched and found I'll need this tool to hold the hub steady while the nut is loosened:
http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.as...W3034-2&CTMP=1
2) Which way is this nut threaded (normal or reverse)?
3) Once I get everything back together, how in the world do I re-torque that nut to 300 FOOT POUNDS?!
Thanks again for all help... this is the last hurdle before my car is back together.
1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
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C'mon, nobody's done this before?
1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
DDM Smoked Corners | DDM Weighted Shift Knob | K&N CAI | Mishimoto AL Rad w/Zionsville AL Shroud
Stewart HiPo Water Pump | Samco Hose Kit | 16" SPAL Puller Fan | Viper 5701LE Security
E36 OBC is now open! Join the effort: BF.C Thread | openOBC Wiki
http://www.toolsource.com/dial-torqu...b-p-93846.html
hahaha good luck
Jeffum17
"Do not put cheap eBay crap on your German Stallion!" -Bimmer323is
I used the best impact wrench and socket there is ( not sure the brand, but all the techs at my work said it was the best). It came off with a few hits. Make sure the socket is high quality. We tried using a Harbor Freight one and the bolt didn't budge. Good luck!
1999 Passat 1.8t 5speed WTT for E36!
http://www.passatworld.com/forums/sh...d.php?t=297975
1987 BMW 325is = M2 RallyX Beast!!!
1986 BMW 325e = SOLD
Best way is to use a powerful impact gun (heavy duty 1/2" or 3/4" air gun). Look for a tool rental place for the gun & small pancake compressor.
If you can't get an impact, a 1/2" breaker bar (Sears) should get it. Get the longest available, use a cheater (piece of pipe over the breaker bar handle) for added leverage (not officially endorsed by Sears of course). Put car in fifth gear, parking brake on firmly. If automatic, get a strap wrench & use it to hold the crank pulley.
You should have a torque wrench if you're that deep into an engine, having one that goes to 300ft-lbs is another story, rent or borrow one if needed, you'll never use one that large often enough unless you have an 18 wheeler
several threads describing the bolt, normal right hand thread:
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...nk+pulley+bolt
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...nk+pulley+bolt
u can use that tool u linked to, i use a Snap On or MAC 1/2 inch breaker bar. but 3/4 will b better, i used the Flywheel locking tool to stop the crank from turning, it didnt break! its Normal way to undo it, and its loctited. doing it back up,loctite and a large bar unless u have $ for a big torque wrench!
The church is close, but the road is icy, The pub is far, but i will walk carefully
Excellent, thanks guys!
1999 ///M3 TiAg | Heated Power Vaders | DDM Projector36 5000K 55W HIDs | DDM 3000K 35W HID Fogs
DDM Smoked Corners | DDM Weighted Shift Knob | K&N CAI | Mishimoto AL Rad w/Zionsville AL Shroud
Stewart HiPo Water Pump | Samco Hose Kit | 16" SPAL Puller Fan | Viper 5701LE Security
E36 OBC is now open! Join the effort: BF.C Thread | openOBC Wiki
i used a 1/2 breaker bar with a 5ft pipe. watch out for the hood and fenders. i put my car in gear and had someone in there holding the breaks.
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