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Thread: Replacing ac compressor clutch BEARING

  1. #76
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
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    Seattle
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    99 M3

    Replacing ac compressor clutch BEARING

    Quote Originally Posted by al_r View Post
    Tapping it in using the inner race could stress and dent the ball and / or races, use the outer race...
    Outer race is in the clutch assembly, correct??
    And yes, using the wrong race could cause brinelling of the race


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by bluptgm3; 07-12-2017 at 06:04 PM.

  2. #77
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    '00 528iA, '01 325iA
    Quote Originally Posted by bluptgm3 View Post
    Outer race is in the clutch assembly, correct??
    And yes, using the wrong race could cause brinelling of the race


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The outer race (ring) of the bearing.

  3. #78
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    Mar 2014
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    Very old thread but I searched and this comes up so wanted to keep all info together.


    I have the four compressor bolts loose (compressor to bracket/housing). The compressor is dropped down such that I can easily access the 10mm nut holding on the drive pulley and clutch assembly. Except the 10mm nut spins with the clutch assembly. Does this mean that the compressor or clutch assembly is toast or do I need to get creative in keeping that outer assembly free? Any idea how tight that 10mm bolt should be? All of the DIY instructions say to loosen the compressor's 4 bolts, drop it down so you have access and then "take off the 10mm bolt" but no one seems to mention that the bolt spins with the compressor. Any suggestions??


    Thanks.

  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1215 View Post
    Very old thread but I searched and this comes up so wanted to keep all info together.


    I have the four compressor bolts loose (compressor to bracket/housing). The compressor is dropped down such that I can easily access the 10mm nut holding on the drive pulley and clutch assembly. Except the 10mm nut spins with the clutch assembly. Does this mean that the compressor or clutch assembly is toast or do I need to get creative in keeping that outer assembly free? Any idea how tight that 10mm bolt should be? All of the DIY instructions say to loosen the compressor's 4 bolts, drop it down so you have access and then "take off the 10mm bolt" but no one seems to mention that the bolt spins with the compressor. Any suggestions??


    Thanks.
    I think you have to hold it with some type of tool. Perhaps an oil filter wrench could work. There is a type using a chain that I think could do it.

  5. #80
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    Editing my last post just so that if anyone finds this thread there is more great info.


    This:

    http://forum.roadfly.com/threads/131...ling-1997-528i


    Roadfly forum post has some great posts and GOOD PICS of what you are up against. The 10mm head bolt/screw can be a bear. I had my car up on stands in the garage so what I ended up doing was cutting down some angle iron and propping or wedging it between the ground/slab and one of the rivets. It worked great. That little bugger was stuck on there good... I'll post pics but stickers say I have a DENSO brand, 10PA17C compressor. There's a bunch of them online. Just need to find a source for the correct bearing and clutch pack.

    The snap ring had broken in half (about 180 degrees back from the opening) and the two pieces managed to lodge themselves behind the clutch plate. Looks like it got pretty hot. My kid said it smelled like tires burning and it did a number on the belt so it got pretty hot.

    I saved the broken snap ring for spacing. Hopefully I can find a cheap clutch pack somewhere.
    Last edited by 1215; 07-25-2018 at 11:40 PM.

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Orlando FL
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    1987 325i Convert
    Bumping an old thread.

    Have similar issues with the AC. Noises when the AC comp is on, no noise when off. Just to understand more clearly, the AC compressor is on it means that the clutch is engaged and forces the pulley to be locked to the shaft. If the AC compressor is off, then it will spin freely.

    If the noises occur when the AC comp is on, then most likely it's the internal bearings of the compressor. Is that correct?

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