I just tried to do this today, I got the 10mm bolt off just fine, but the compressor hub/cap would not budge... how did you guys take it off so easily! I threw in the towel after about 45 minutes of swearing and jamming screwdrivers between the pulley and hub/cap.
It'll eventually come off. You can't just pry in one spot- you have to try and get it from opposite sides at the same time, otherwise it'll just bind on the shaft from all the side load you put on it. If you pull on it evenly, it just slides right off. It's just tricky to get it right.
Did you get the snapring off first?
Well, the snapring is what holds on the pulley. You have to pull the front disc off before you can get to the snapring, which is what whatthedealee is talking about, I assume....
BMW uses Japanese compressors. You should be able to buy a complete new clutch assembly.
Also, when you put the old one back together, make sure the unengaged clutch spacing is correct. If it's too much, you'll get symptoms of no AC after the system warms up. When it cools down a little the clutch will engage. When really hot it won't.
Sorry, I used to know if for a Saab (also Japanese compressor), but I don't know it for a BMW.
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BMW uses Japanese compressors. You should be able to buy a complete new clutch assembly.
Also, when you put the old one back together, make sure the unengaged clutch spacing is correct. If it's too much, you'll get symptoms of no AC after the system warms up. When it cools down a little the clutch will engage. When really hot it won't.
Sorry, I used to know if for a Saab (also Japanese compressor), but I don't know it for a BMW.
I got the front disc off, found out you can use a larger size bolt and screw it into the same hole, the front disc will pull itself off.
Once I got that off, the snapring snapped in half... then the pulley won't come off the shaft, seems like it is binding at the end... so now i'm probably just gonna replace the whole compressor at this point.
The snaprings are pretty fragile. I thought I had a bad compressor, but then noticed there was play in the pulley, which was making the whole thing bind and making the belt squeal.
I decided to look at the bearing and found out the snapring was just broken. I had a spare so I replaced it and I've been working perfect since.
The pulley/bearing should come off pretty easily. Sometimes there's a little bit of rust on the end of the shaft which makes it hard to get started... but with a decent prybar (again, working from both sides at once) it should come right off if you've got the whole snapring off.
Compressors are expensive. And R134a will be at least 35-40 bucks. I'd just get a new bearing and snapring if you can- but then again I don't know what your original symptoms were.....
Does anyone have a part number for the snap-ring?
Dakar 95 M3 (4/95 manufacture)
Techno Violet 97 M3 (12/96 manufacture)
Alpine White 16 535i M-Sport (10/15 manufacture)
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I don't believe the snap ring will have a BMW p/n, and won't be in realoem, Generally, these are standard parts and a good auto parts store or hardware store should have them. Outside chance you will have to go to a fastener store.
Last edited by bluptgm3; 05-13-2017 at 06:41 PM.
bumping this up...only thread i could find with this information
so does anyone have a good source for the replacement bearing
I took the Nachi bearing p/n to Kaman. They appear to have offices in all 50 States.
actually found it at autozone, sanden part $18
http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heat...7355_440953_0/
Since this has been an on-going thread over the years I figured I'd throw my story/dilemma into the mix.
'97 E36 bearing has obviously failed. Instead of messing with removing/pressing out old bearing and reusing all other existing components I find a "clutch kit" (pulley [w/bearing], clutch plate, electro-magnet, and new hardware) on Rock Auto.
Ordered, and delivered as promised. Removed old, installed new ( there was a thousand cuss words that went with that snap ring). Worked great! No more noise. 5wks later, the noise is back- pull the clutch plate, the seal is gone from the bearing. Obviously overheated, grease gone, no wonder the noise is back.
Put in warranty claim with Rock Auto, "kit" is covered. Order new "kit", and send failed part back. Installed replacement, 4months later- bearing has failed again! WTF! Now I'm thinking cheap bearing? Bad grease? Wrong belt? Tensioner wrong? What the Hell? So, one more time? Or does anyone have a different take on this?
OE parts or bust
I am adding to this Thread, it was most helpful in changing my pulley bearing. I did not remove the radiator. AC COMPRESSOR.jpgThe snap ring was angled where my pliers wouldn't fit. So, I ended up lowering the compressor and getting the snap ring from the front view (without a mirror) It really does take patience.
SNAP RING PLIARS3.jpg
I ordered a larger pair of pliers and also ended up removing the spring to get them to spread wider also. The on your head flashlight also helped.
The old bearing didn't seem to have play but it was the howler/squeeler. Its all quiet now.
1998 328ic
Notes about the snap ring. One hole is smaller and your plier tip may not fit. I drilled it out after removal. My small pliers open farther with the 45 or straight tips than the 90 degree. I used the larger pliers to reinstall the snapring.
Last edited by mike318; 11-12-2016 at 09:24 AM.
1998 328ic
Great thread I will be attempting this very soon.
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After replacing the bearing in the pulley, how hard is it to reinstall back onto compressor? I got the pulley/clutch kit off rockauto and seems like it will be an interference fit and will require a hammer to install the pulley with the new bearing installed back on to compressor.
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I recently had a leaking compressor and wanted to swap the clutch from it onto a spare compressor I had, but lacked the special tools needed to remove the clutch. I decided instead to just use the clutch already on the spare compressor. You can get a rebuilt compressor with clutch for $150 or a used compressor for half that. You might also be able to rent for free AC clutch tools from Autozone -- but I don't know what they have for AC tools.
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