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Thread: Replacing ac compressor clutch BEARING

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHL View Post
    Can anybody give me the exact size of the 10mm bolt? Dealer says the bolt is only available when the compressor is purchased. Furthermore, he was unable to give me its exact length.
    Napoleon,

    The bolt is actually a 6mm with a 10mm head, length is ~20mm IIRC.
    How's the M3?

  2. #27
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    wow so that's the noisy little monkey!
    BMW CCA Member 186373 - Golden Gate Chapter
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    Gone: 1995 E36 M3 Arctik Silber, 1996 E36 M3 Cosmos, 1991 E30 318is Cosmos

  3. #28
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    I think simple threads like this that sort out DiY fixes for common troubles on our cars are great. Good job!
    ----Dave----

  4. #29
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    Sorry to bump an old thread, but my AC clutch is making wild tapping sounds at idle, which I can quiet at least for a while by directing a stream of WD-40 into the area just to the side of the pulley. Actually, Ive quieted it for several months at a time this way. Its back now, and im doing the WD-40 thing again, but would like a more permanent fix.

    Can a separate AC Compressor Clutch/Pulley assy be purchased which includes new bearing to solve this issue without manually changing out the bearing itself? I want to give this to a shop, and Id have more confidence in them swapping out the noisy assy rather than have them deal with the bearing replacement itself. But I havent been able to find separate clutch/pulley assemblies for the compressor... Any sources?
    ___________________
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    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul e View Post
    Sorry to bump an old thread, but my AC clutch is making wild tapping sounds at idle, which I can quiet at least for a while by directing a stream of WD-40 into the area just to the side of the pulley. Actually, Ive quieted it for several months at a time this way. Its back now, and im doing the WD-40 thing again, but would like a more permanent fix.

    Can a separate AC Compressor Clutch/Pulley assy be purchased which includes new bearing to solve this issue without manually changing out the bearing itself? I want to give this to a shop, and Id have more confidence in them swapping out the noisy assy rather than have them deal with the bearing replacement itself. But I havent been able to find separate clutch/pulley assemblies for the compressor... Any sources?
    When I turn on my AC and the compressor-clutch engages you then hear a noise like a bunch of BBs in a bowl going round and round. I have wondered if one could replace just the clutch-bearing or it meant a compressor evacuation by a professional. With some research I think you can with a puiller replace some clutches on some AC compressors but not all? I don't know if mine can be fixed or your that way. So bottom line is I am watching this trhead here.

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron97M3 View Post
    When I turn on my AC and the compressor-clutch engages you then hear a noise like a bunch of BBs in a bowl going round and round. I have wondered if one could replace just the clutch-bearing or it meant a compressor evacuation by a professional. With some research I think you can with a puiller replace some clutches on some AC compressors but not all? I don't know if mine can be fixed or your that way. So bottom line is I am watching this trhead here.
    Yea, I just describe the sound as tapping or loud ticking. Glad it was that instead of valve issues... I didnt know at first what it was til a mechanic in a shop had a hunch and sprayed the wd-40 at it and sure enough, that was it: ac compressor clutch pulley. As I said with mine, I can quite effectively quiet it with a stream of WD-40 aimed just to the side of the belt on the compressor pulley. IF I spray it before I take the car out for a few days in a row, then I can stop spraying and it will be quiet for months. With mine, its not just when the AC is turned on; its all the time at idle. I had forgotten I even had the issue for a long time, the WD-40 did such a good job. If you want to try it, buy the WD-40 cans with the yellow trigger top that you can flip up or down to deliver a spray, which you dont want, or a stream which you do.. Works really well, but apparently, I wouldnt call it a really Permanent fix.. But it will certainly tide you over til you decide to get it repaired.
    ___________________
    Paul E
    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  7. #32
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    Wonder where one gets the right bearing?

    Apparently my 12/96 97 M3 has a Nippondenso 10PA17Ccompressor
    I established this by using
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...21&hg=64&fg=50
    By to get part number 64528390741.

    I found this ....

    pull the 12 mm nut,
    pull off the hub with your fingers or cheat a little with a couple of slotted screwdrivers,
    retainer pliers gets off the pulley snap ring,
    pull off the pulley,
    on the inside is another retainer ring, take that off and
    tap out the old bearing.

    Never stress the inner race of the bearing, you can pound on the outer race as hard as you want go get it back in, but just tapping with a flat headed punch does the trick, don't slip and ruin the seal.
    Not a hard job at all, I love working on Denso stuff.

    --------
    But this isn't enough to know where to order what bearing etc.

    Found this for mine on RockAuto.com

    DENSO Part # 4730288 More Info {Compressor Clutch #64528390741}
    With Type 10PA17C Compressor
    * Non-stock item--shipping delayed up to 2 business days
    $148

    ----
    Just did the AC clutch search on rockauto for your 99 m3 and they show the same clutch for the same compressor as my 97. But www.realoem.com seems to indicate your Compressor may NOT be a Denso like mine?

    --------

    Then perhaps one could just do the bearing alone in the clutch if one could find a replacement bearing. I believe there is a place called King Bearing which if you know the dimensions they can supply a bearing ... but perhaps Denso can too. Always love solving a problem the most efficient way. What does scare me about this job is you could end up having to replace the whole AC compressor and that would require AC service which would cost something for sure.

    Just found this clue for the bearing part ...

    Nachi Brand, Part# 30BG5222-2DSE (if yours is a Denso 10pa17 compressor)
    That part # is a replacement for the Nachi 30BGS10-DST2.
    You need a puller to get the pulley off the compressor, drift the old bearing out and then you will need some sort of press to get the new bearing in. The bearing can be put in - carefully - with a hammer and drift, then pressed home with a bench vice, but a press is the best way to do it.
    Last edited by Ron97M3; 07-05-2009 at 01:14 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  8. #33
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    thats a great post, Ron. Ive read the bearing replacement procedure and it looks a little tricky in that it if its not driven in just right, it will lock up.. If the clutch contains the bearing, Im more comfortable just buying the clutch and giving it over to a shop for installation. Til then, its WD-40; works better than you might think

    BTW, the compressor and its clutch for m3s produced in 4/97 (for example) and 4/99 in realoem seem to carry the same part numbers and annotations.. Where did you see that they might use different compressors? The clutch annotation for both says, "ONLY APPLIES TO COMPRESSOR SEIKO / FER
    01 MAGNETIC CLUTCH"

    The pn 64528390741 applies to both the '97 and '99.
    Last edited by paul e; 07-05-2009 at 01:22 AM.
    ___________________
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    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  9. #34
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    Great post, thanks guys!

    I know one the 95 and 96 cars, on cold start, there's that horrible "ratcheting" noise. An M3 pal disconnected his AC belt to test a theory I had, and that noise event away.

    If Paul had such luck with WD-40. I wonder how well a Teflon based spray like Tri-Flow would hold up. Maybe better?
    Plus just spraying that bearing with WD-40 and it not making noise anymore tells me thats not a sealed unit either.
    BMW CCA Member 186373 - Golden Gate Chapter
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    Gone: 1995 E36 M3 Arctik Silber, 1996 E36 M3 Cosmos, 1991 E30 318is Cosmos

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuxoM3 View Post
    Great post, thanks guys!
    I know one the 95 and 96 cars, on cold start, there's that horrible "ratcheting" noise. An M3 pal disconnected his AC belt to test a theory I had, and that noise event away.

    If Paul had such luck with WD-40. I wonder how well a Teflon based spray like Tri-Flow would hold up. Maybe better? Plus just spraying that bearing with WD-40 and it not making noise anymore tells me thats not a sealed unit either.
    If the bearing isn't sealed you can really understand how it would fail from moisture and how some lube might fix it. I wonder if one could repack the bearing with nice hi-temp grease if that might make it happy?

    I just went out and started my M3 and turned on the AC and curiously there was NO ratcheting noise. I guess that bad bearing noise isn't always present.
    I have some synthetic mobile-1 spray lube so I ran the AC and sprayed in front of and behind the belt area. So now I will be listening for when I hear the noise again I will be back and posting on this thread when I do.

    Thanks Paul for double checking the AC compessor part numbers ... glad to hear they are all the same Denso parts as rockauto.com implies. I agree replacing the clutch as a unit when paying mechanic do it is the sure fire way to go.

    Me I might look for the bearing and if it's cheap like $20 I may try that especially if I know I can fall back to the $150 part since I will DIY IT.
    Paul if you have this fixed lets us know how it goes. I am not rushing now especially if the lube covers up the issue for good periods.

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ron97M3 View Post
    If the bearing isn't sealed you can really understand how it would fail from moisture and how some lube might fix it. I wonder if one could repack the bearing with nice hi-temp grease if that might make it happy?

    I just went out and started my M3 and turned on the AC and curiously there was NO ratcheting noise. I guess that bad bearing noise isn't always present.
    I have some synthetic mobile-1 spray lube so I ran the AC and sprayed in front of and behind the belt area. So now I will be listening for when I hear the noise again I will be back and posting on this thread when I do.

    Thanks Paul for double checking the AC compessor part numbers ... glad to hear they are all the same Denso parts as rockauto.com implies. I agree replacing the clutch as a unit when paying mechanic do it is the sure fire way to go.

    Me I might look for the bearing and if it's cheap like $20 I may try that especially if I know I can fall back to the $150 part since I will DIY IT.
    Paul if you have this fixed lets us know how it goes. I am not rushing now especially if the lube covers up the issue for good periods.
    Yea.. Im not rushing either. The WD-40 did so well that when the tapping returned, I totally initially forgot what was causing it and got all concerned about valves, etc. Then the memory slowly returned. I think it was over 10k miles since it acted up.. Considering Im dealing with a NASTY brake judder issue and will have to have all 4 corners pads and rotors replaced, Im not in a big hurry to go beyond the wd-40 'fix' which has been so successful, yet not permanent. BTW, the sound I get, when I have it, is like marbles or bbs in a plastic container.. Its a tapping sound that occurs or is heard at idle, whether or not the AC is turned on.... And of course, it is spray lube stoppable

    BTW, check out the price of this complete compressor unit.. even cheaper than the Rock Auto clutch alone.. But should anybody trust it?! It actually comes with a 1 yr warranty yet... Some price, huh!

    http://www.airpartstore.com/?id=7364...earch=bmw%20m3

    The second one down is the one Im referring to.

    Re those brakes, Ive been around in circles with this. Ive been using Hawk HPS on Balo/Zimmerman rotors for 25k miles and about every 5 miles the judder returns.. Ive done rotors 3 times over the last 25 yrs, and the judder Always returns in within about 5k miles. Its a street only car these days, and rotor after rotor is tried, and still it returns.. I will sometimes hit 80-90 on roads with 65mph speed limits, but never brake from there down to zero.. Ill just hit the brakes to slow down to 65 if my Valentine triggers. Im usually quick on/quick off the brakes.. NO dragging the pads. So its a mystery. .Some folks have good luck with Hawk HPS... As for me, Im taking some advice and going back old school with Metal Masters. The only pad that didnt cause me a problem was OEM, but with my ridiculously hard-to-clean Fikse honeycomb rims, Im not even considering that.. I really shouldnt have to with all the aftermarket pads out there. Wish me luck!!
    Last edited by paul e; 07-05-2009 at 05:49 PM.
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    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  12. #37
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    If it's not broken don't fix it because ....

    I bought my M3 with fresh brakes and rotors at 68,000 and now it has 111,000 the rotors are just some standard non-sloted-holed type. I don't know what the pads are but I think they have like 1/3rd left.

    I actually bought some Hawk pads off ebay for cheap, after your experience I am now wondering if I want to use those. If I do have a problem I will let you know. Weird your problem goes away for 5,000 miles and then comes back that makes it hard to figure.

    My fun little issue has been an evaporative leak causing a CEL. The way the evap systems is semi-random I can't know if tightening a clam fixed a leak not for maybe 1,000 miles. For some reason I discovered the an evap line is pulled tight into the fuel breather valve in the engine bay so I remounted the valve and perhaps that has it fixed? Need to get under the car near the fuel filter to check why the line is too short. Perhaps two years ago when I did the fuel filter I pulled it some how? Often it's what we do/change that sets up for another problem. Perhaps it's that way it is for your brakes?

    Once worked for Canon as a Software Engineer my Japanese manager would say .... "If it's not broken don't fix it" .... in regards to cleanng up some messy bunch of "noodle" software coding. The thought was when you change anything you run the real risk of having more troubles so don't change things unless you have good reason.

    ---------------
    Just found DIY information on AC compressor bearing Fix

    Like this ...
    DIY for replacing Denso AC Compressor Bearing

    Tools needed
    10mm, 13mm Sockets
    Bent External Circlip Pliers
    Hammer
    Vice (100mm / 4” jaws required)
    Center Punch
    Assorted Larger sockets to drift bearing from pulley.

    Parts Used:
    NACHI bearing No 30BGS10DST2 (it's green) or 30BGOSS2DS

    Note: Someone said they contacted Allied Bearings at Nerang QLD,
    they finally tracked down the right bearing with the corrected code
    30BG05S2G-2DS, now with a brown coloured seal.

    Pulley and bearing removal procedure:
    Remove compressor cover plate
    Turn ignition and air conditioning on (don’t start the motor!)
    Start to undo 10mm bolt retaining pulley
    Turn off ignition.
    Undo drive belt idler pulley by undoing but not removing the 3 10mm bolts.
    Remove the center retaining bolt on compressor,
    being careful to note and not lose any shim washers on the bolt.
    Slide the end cover of the pulley toward the front the vehicle and carefully remove,
    once again taking careful note of any shim washers that may be present up the spline in the center of the end plate.
    Using the bent circlip pliers carefully remove the circlip retaining the pulley and bearing.
    Slide pulley forward and off the center shaft.

    Bearing replacement:
    Find a socket that has a small end that will just fit into the center hole of the bearing.
    Sit the pulley on a flat support or vice jaws, making sure they are just wide enough apart
    for the bearing to be pushed out without hitting the jaws. Place the socket into the bearing and using
    a 2lb hammer proceed to carefully drift the bearing from the pulley.
    Do not use excessive force, use just what you need to get the job done. As
    the bearing is moving, make sure you drift it so it remains straight in the pulley.
    Once removed you get to clean the pulley and make sure you remove any burrs that may make
    it hard to fit the new bearing.

    Carefully line up and gently start pushing the new bearing up into the pulley using very light taps
    with the hammer. DO NOT hit the center of the bearing!
    Always only apply pressure to the outer shell of the bearing during this part of the job.
    You are just trying to line it up straight and push it in enough to hold it before the next stage of the job.
    Make sure you get it as straight and evenly centered as you can. Using the old bearing, place the pulley,
    bearing and old bearing in the vice and use the vice pressure to push the bearing into the pulley.
    All the while ensuring it is straight and even. Try to use continuous and even force and
    ensure you push the bearing fully into the pulley. When you are sure you have it, remove it from the vice
    and check to see the bearing is hard up against the shoulder of the pulley. You
    will notice some small dints on the pulley. These were there to retain the bearing.
    Using a center punch, lightly pop in these dints to spread them back over the
    edge of the bearing to retain it as before. One pop in each dint will do just fine.

    Reassembling the pulley to the compressor etc is just the reverse of the dismantling procedure.
    Make sure you get those shims back where they originally came from.
    DO NOT over tension the drive belt or you will be doing this again in a few months time.
    Last edited by Ron97M3; 07-05-2009 at 06:08 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  13. #38
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    Brake judder, ie, the vibration felt in the steering wheel when the brakes are applied is caused by one thing: uneven transfer of pad material to the rotors, creating 'hot spots' or 'variable surface' on the rotor.

    All i can figure is that ive been over using the brakes, or, using them too frequently from high speeds, causing the melting of pad material where the material fuses to the rotor at the molecular level.. Real pain in the ass.. Im switching to Metal Masters.. Old school low dust pad used for hi performance street driving and auto cross work. The Hawks Ive been using are the HPS (Hi Perf Street) model. Didnt work for me without invariably creating the judder condition after 3-5k miles of installation even on fresh rotors. But lots of folks seem to use them and like them. BTW, unless Im on the throughway, ie, going over 65 mph, they feel smooth as silk. Its only at these higher speeds that the judder really becomes evident.
    ___________________
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    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  14. #39
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    Taking out clutch

    Hi,

    Would you tell me how to undo 10mm bolt from clutch? I tried but clutch is spinning as I undo bolt. How can I hold it to remove bolt?

    I also tried to turn on AC without engine running (Key is in ACC) but no luck. It does not engage clutch.

    Thank you,

  15. #40
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    So did this bearing replacement fix anyone's noisy ac? mine has been making this noise for so long and I can't take it anymore. My old 325 did the same thing. It is bad enough that I will turn my ac off in the summer when approaching a group of people to quiet it down. lol.

    Dinan CAI | Dinan MAF | Dinan Exhaust | Dinan Stage 4 Engine Software | 19" Staggered M Par Reps | Rear Lip Spoiler |

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by dcroghan View Post
    So did this bearing replacement fix anyone's noisy ac? mine has been making this noise for so long and I can't take it anymore. My old 325 did the same thing. It is bad enough that I will turn my ac off in the summer when approaching a group of people to quiet it down. lol.
    I posted this above, but if you dont want to tackle this for awhile and would like the incessant noise to shut up in the mean time, take a can of wd-40 with the straw attached to the spray head, aim a flashlight at the pulley, and aim the wd-40 stream to the right side (inside edge as the pulley sits on the shaft).. of the belt as it sits on the pulley. You want to get it into the shaft mechanism. Turn the engine off when you do this so the fans wont blow the stream off line. If you find the right spot, she'll shut right up and Ive gone several hundreds of miles with this interim silencer. Maybe more.
    ___________________
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    '11 AW 135i ; Sold: '99 White M3 81k mi; Dinan SC kit, 6"/3.48" sc pulleys, Aftercooler: 10.5 psi-367 SAE rwhp/304 rwftlbs @80 degrees ambient (still with OBDII manifold & stock cats); DynoTuning by Nick G (techniquetuning.com); Speed Shop: Imported Cars of Stamford; AA-Aquamist Water Injection, exhaust, clutch; Fikse FM-10s; Koni Suspension; Stealthboxes

    http://s11.photobucket.com/albums/a173/boostm3/

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by paul e View Post
    I posted this above, but if you dont want to tackle this for awhile and would like the incessant noise to shut up in the mean time, take a can of wd-40 with the straw attached to the spray head, aim a flashlight at the pulley, and aim the wd-40 stream to the right side (inside edge as the pulley sits on the shaft).. of the belt as it sits on the pulley. You want to get it into the shaft mechanism. Turn the engine off when you do this so the fans wont blow the stream off line. If you find the right spot, she'll shut right up and Ive gone several hundreds of miles with this interim silencer. Maybe more.
    Might want to try something that isn't a solvent. Tri-Flow is sold at bike shops. It comes in an aerosol, did a great job quieting my squeaky steering shaft bearing.

    As an aside, my AC clutch bearing was making noise until I did an HPDE on a 100 degree day with the AC on. It eventually seized, fortunately only with the clutch engaged.

    Replacing the bearing seemed like a huge PITA, so I ordered a rebuilt compressor off ebay for under $100 which has worked out great.

  18. #43
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    I have the same problem on my 88 E32 750 with the same compressor. Will try that with the WD-40, if not, I will try to install a used clutch I have from a parts car.
    Thanks for the info
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  19. #44
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    It seems like my AC clutch is always engaged on my M3, I wonder if this will help it. My car puts out some serious cold air even when I don't have the A/C on inside.
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    subscribed.

    ...i need to do this.

  21. #46
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    yes
    these threads make me so happy!!! I replaced the AC idler pully thinking that was the problem, it was quite for about 4 miles then same noise again......drives me nutz!

  22. #47
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    you are not alone with the problem
    last weekends we took off the clutch, changed the clutch, same noise.
    Then removed they pulley we thought it is the bearing. Bearing is perfect, even tried another pulley from my parts car with very good bearing, same noise.
    Then found out it is the shaft.
    cause of noise:
    judging from the rub marks on the coil pack, it is being hit by the inner clutch.


    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1600583

    some pics here with dimensions checked of the clutch and the complete story, so far....
    next weekend I will change the complete compressor out. But I will disassemble the troublemaker also to get more details and try to repair it.
    Never give up
    Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!

  23. #48
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    Location
    toms river
    Posts
    5
    My Cars
    99 328i
    i know this is old but im doing this on my 99 328i and its the same set up but i cant get the pulley back on... it was a major pita to get it off and not i can get it back on... any tips ? thanks

  24. #49
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    SOCAL
    Posts
    413
    My Cars
    e36 325i 5MT, e36 M3 5MT
    I just did this and it worked perfect.
    Thanks for the DIY.
    It's DIYs like this that help people in the future like myself!!
    Last edited by Mr. 3; 01-14-2012 at 12:16 AM.
    www.mr5racing.com
    2001 BMW 330ci 5MT (Sold) -- 2003.5 BMW M3 6MT (Sold) -- 2007 BMW 335i 6MT [441 whp 483 wtq (not stock)] (Sold) -- 1994 BMW 325i 5MT [202 whp 178 wtq (not stock)] -- 1999 BMW M3 5MT [263 whp 233 wtq) (not stock)]


  25. #50
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Omaha, NE
    Posts
    4,196
    My Cars
    1998 528i 5-spd 102K
    I am usually on the E39 (1998 528i) forum but a quick question for you guys in E36 forum.

    For those of you who replaced your AC Pulley Bearing (Nachi 30BG05S2G-2DS etc.), when did you do yours?

    125K, 150K, 175K, 200K?

    I just want to know how long these bearings last.
    Last edited by cnn; 08-20-2012 at 12:31 PM.

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