Old thread, I know. But here's the response I got when I asked RRT the above questions...
"The warranty does cover normal wear and tear... This does not cover track and or race cars. However, I will tell you that I just replaced the bearings on my race car ( all four ) after 8 years of service and
15 (avg) events per year."
I have a 325is track... I mean, daily driver, that could use some new bearings...
85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i/5
e30 restoration and V8 swap
The finished product!
The DuPont stuff is what I saw the PTG guys using on their bearings. I could not remember what it was called, so thanks for the tip! We use Red Line CV2 bearing and CV grease. Unfortunately to give a full lifetime warranty on a race bearing would mean that EVERY set we sold would eventually come back within a couple of years.
You have to be careful dismantling the FAG bearings these days. They have plastic barbs inside that hold the inner races in the bearing, while the older SKF bearings came right apart. I can only get FAG bearings now, so all of them (E36, E30, M3/non M alike) are pretty tough to open up without damaging anything. We don't make a lot on repacked bearings; it's mainly just a service for those who either can't or don't want to do it themselves.
http://www2.dupont.com/Lubricants/en...ts_krytox.html
Interesting stuff....
James Muskopf
RRT Racing
DC Metro's premier BMW service and racing facility
Insoluble in common organic solvents? So what do you clean it up with?
No PMs. Email through forum please.
I ended up just going with a new set of fronts from the local import parts place. I got FAGs.
I'll just plan to change them whenever they go bad -- might not be a bad idea to have a spare for the track box, too. It took less than 1HR per side and that was going slowly and learning as I went. Glad to have the right puller for the failed side, as its inner race was frozen onto the stub pretty well.
Passenger side (which wasn't making any noise) came off the stub with no problems.
The rears on E30 and E36 non-M go pretty quickly, especially with more power and more tire. Those are the ones that really count when it comes to repacking.
You can't really clean up thick sections of grease very well with solvents. Once you wipe away the bulk of it with towels, you can clean the parts with brake cleaner and clean towels easily. It's best to dispose of the contaminated paper and towels with a proper waste disposal service.
James Muskopf
RRT Racing
DC Metro's premier BMW service and racing facility
Just to clarify/add... They are different rear wheel bearings on an e36 M3 vs. e36 non-M. The M parts are physically larger, too.
On the e30, though, the M3 and the non-M do use the same rear wheel bearings as each other. This is a good thing to know if you ever need one in a bind... as I have in the past ;-)
Nothing!! Wear gloves and don't get it(Krytox) on any clothing you don't want to ruin. Back in the day I used to assemble Uprights and Half-Shafts for Indy/Champ cars. At the time Krytox was the lube of choice for C/V's. It worked great, but it is nearly impossible to get off your skin and it won't come out of clothing. We later switched to a Synth. grease from Mobile 1.
Bumping a informative slightly older thread....Question For Ya's....
In the Middle of doing my Front Wheel Bearings (easy job so far, passenger side came right off) and Rears next weekend (trying to get my parts friend to source me some RRT's for back there).
Not paying close attention, I momentarily stuck the new Hub/Bearing (OEM) on backwards (just by hand, so no force), quickly realized it and pulled it off. The inner race (outside inner since it was backwards) stuck until I pulled it off. In the process, some of the factory grease came off on my glove. Not much, but some... (it's a clearish looking grease) I was thinking it might be a good idea to put some more back in there before I mount it permantly. So I picked up some Mobil 1 Synthetic Bearing Grease at Autozone....
My question, do you think it's ok to mix the Greases? I really don't want to take the Bearing all apart and clean up all the old stuff if possible....I'd rather just spread some of the colorful M1 stuff in there....
I know the Syth Oils mix fine with Dino stuff, I assume there would be no bad things by mixing the greases? (for all we know the stock grease is a Synth)
Thoughts?
Thanks!!
John
'95 Hellrot M3 w/Dove
AA Euro HFM Stage II (w/21# Injectors & Software) W/Gen III Exhaust - URI Crank Pully - FDM w/3 Row M Coupe Rad - 3.23 LSD - Vogtland Club Spec/Koni SA - UUC Red w/Enforcers - TMS Shims/Rear Camber Bars w/QA1 inners/Sways - VMC F/TMS R End Links - X-Brace - Perf Ultimate/SS Brake Lines - GC Tower Mounts/RTAB Shims - ZKW's w/5000K Hid - Fog Delete - Alpine 9847/Pioneer TS-C130R Kevlar Components/Pioneer PRS-X340/Stealth Box's/Wired Zune 120GB - OE LTW CF Sills/Glove Box Plate - Staggered Black M-Spoke II's w/235/40 (front), 255/40 (Rear) Nitto NT05's - Rolled Fenders!
***Got a '95 M3? (actually pretty common on all years! Even happened to Racer Seth Thomas! ) Check Your LSD! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=390209
Back from the dead! My track car has gone through 2 new rear wheel bearings (FAG brand) this season, the last one only lasted a day or so. It doesn't look like RRT is doing the bearings anymore, is there any other options out there beyond repacking them ourselves?
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