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Thread: Intermittent Starting Issue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
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    Central Jersey
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    95 M3

    Intermittent Starting Issue

    I have a 95 M3 w/ just over 115k. Recently when turning the key to start it, I would get nothing. All the lights would come on, radio works and the windows would work, but not a click out of the starter. But, if I rolled the windows up a little, it would fire right up. Happened once last weekend and again yesterday.

    Last weekend, the drivers side power window switch broke so I pulled it out. Thats when this problem started. I put is back in waiting for the new one to arrive, but it happened again yesterday. Is it related, or is something else on its way out and its coincidence?

    The car doesn't have EWS and the battery is about 4 years old. Once on, the car runs fine. No CEL or anything.

    Any suggestions? TIA

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    2007 x5 4.8l 2004.330ci

    That makes no sense to me. Questions.

    This is battery failure season you know. Weather gets cooler and battery is say 7+ years old and it fails.

    If you turns lights on and try to start the car do the lights dim as
    starter does nothing or just clicks? If so this likely a discharged and/or dead battery. If the battery isn't old then it could be the charging system like the alternator.

    Given you don't have a marginal battery or charging system I haven't clue and can't believe using your windows switch would have any positive effect on making the starter work. I suppose your window switch install could be pulling down the battery but you would be getting a dead battery.

    Questions:

    1. Have you had the problems with starter failing more the than once?
    2. Does using just using the window switch always make the starter then work?
    3. If you use a different window switch/circuit you didn't work on does the
    same thing happen?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    Huntsville, AL
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    87 325is
    This could be a bad ignition switch. And the test for that would be to see if pilot voltage is applied to the starter solenoid when this happens.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    reread your post

    OK I didn't read your post carefully.
    By your statement .. if I roll the windows up a little, it would fire right up
    I am thinking maybe it's not your switch which is bad, how is it you can move the window with the old switch but you think the switch is bad?

    Seems to me maybe the window in the failing position causes a power drain.
    his drain is causes a weak battery to not be able to run the starter?

    If battery is old it will not have much reserve. Try this

    1. Put window in position so the car should start.
    2. Start the car and let it run for a minute or two.
    3. Stop the car and leave the window alone.
    4. Turn the high beams on leave them on for two minutes
    5. Attempt to start the car with high beams still on?

    If the starter struggles or won't turn over at step 5 I think you have two
    issues. A weak battery/charging system and a window when in certain
    positions is causing a battery drain.

    Another test would be to put the window in the bad position which makes the car not start. Then go to the fuse box under the hood and pull the fuse for
    the window. This should remove the window drain and permit the car to start? Perhaps the drain related to the window has to do with the second detent on the window switch or something too?

    If car doesn't have much battery it will turn the starter slowly, or the starter will just click, or do nothing. If the car doesn't have much battery the headlights will dim to almost nothing when you try to run the starter. Note: a car battery should easily allow the high beams to be on 15 minutes without the car running and then allow the starter to run when still on. When the battery is going bad it can't do this as it has lost it's reserve capacity!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2001
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    Central Jersey
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    jlevie: I've been reading up on that. I'm leaning towards the ignition switch being the problem.

    Ron: I've never had any issues w/ this car starting. Battery is 4 years old. Still in the 70's and low 80's out here in Jersey. The window switch broke, meaning the one touch down feature wouldn't work, then the the switch totally broke so I couldn't roll down the drivers side window. The passenger side and sunroof still work. I would just keep turning the key and nothing would happen. All lights on the dash would work, and all power accessories would work, but it was like the starter wasn't connected. But after a few tries it would fire and run fine as if nothing happened.

    Thanks for the replys.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    So

    So windows switch use has no predictable affect on starting or not?
    It's a seperate ignition switch?

    I was sucker in (ha ha) by the idea moving the window made the starter work or not. If that is still true I can't figure how it's the ignition switch, at least alone.

    Is the problem just related to the position of the one drivers window and no other?

    Anyway I will stay turned to hear how you fix it and how the symptoms explained the problem(s). Please post that when you figure it out!

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    Replaced the ignition switch last Saturday and it seemed to fix the starting issues. The power window switch and ignition switch had nothing to do w/ each other, just the windows broke one day and the intermittent starting happened just a few days later, so thought maybe they were related.

    The ignition switch actually fixed a few small things. First, when starting the car in the morning when it was completely cold, it would take a good 4 to 5 secs. to start. I've owned this car since 99 and it never fired quick when cold. Now, it starts in half that time in the morn. When warm, I barely have to touch the key for it to fire. Second, the idle would hunt every once in a while. Hasn't done that since. Both small issues, but are gone now.

    I can only assume this new ignition switch is metering the flow of electricity to the rest of the car more effectively, thus a smoother running car.

    Thanks for the suggestions and hopefully this will help others.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2008
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    kimberton, pennsylvania, USA
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    1995 BMW E36 M3
    I have been having the same problem, have to keep a boost pack in the car because im never sure if its going to feel like not starting... How much did it cost you to replace the ignition switch? i bet its the same thing on my car, symptoms are exactly the same

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
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    New England
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    F90 M5; E36 M3 Turbo
    My car also has been having problems. Sometimes I turn the key 4 or 5 times and nothing happens. Then on the next try it cranks fine. Most of the time, it cranks fine and starts right up. The failure can occur on a cold start in the morning, so I don't suspect an overheated starter solenoid.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
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    Las Vegas, NV
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    2019 AMG C43, 1988 528e
    Quote Originally Posted by pbonsalb View Post
    My car also has been having problems. Sometimes I turn the key 4 or 5 times and nothing happens. Then on the next try it cranks fine. Most of the time, it cranks fine and starts right up. The failure can occur on a cold start in the morning, so I don't suspect an overheated starter solenoid.
    I have been having this problem since I bought the car a few weeks ago. I thought it was having trouble starting because the clutch wasn't fully depressed. Like you, I would press down on the clutch and try and start the car; the lights inside the car go on, but nothing else happens. The other day I tried about 4 times and really stepped down on the clutch and then it started. Weird...

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    check your starter...
    -Andrew Mensah




  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    99' E36 M3 2/5
    I would also check the clutch switch, also a crank postion sensor can fault and cause the no start a couple times then a start.

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