I'll tell ya right up front. My car started life as a non-sport 2003 530i. After 145,000 miles she cornered like a 1950's Buick. The srings and shocks were changed which did help a lot. She just needed a bit less roll in the corners.
So the options were Dinan, Eibach and someone else... Doesn't really matter who. They were all in excess of $450+ for their kits. Definatly that $$$ is not in the budget this close to X-Mas.
The rear M5 sway bar with new brakets bolts and bushing set me back $130 at the dealer. The bar looks to be at least 4mm thicker than the stock 530 bar.
I or anyone else will NOT take ANY responsibility if you screw up your car when following these directions in this easy DIY.
You will need:
1- To be sober, definatly sober.
2- an alignment when finished is recommended
3- good hydraulic jack ( or ramps )
4- 16mm cresent wrech
5- 16mm or 3/8 socket wrench
6- 13mm socket wrench
7- 13mm cresent wrench
8- jack stands ( if using jack )
9- wheel chucks
10- creeper ( not nessary but very useful )
11- M5 sway bar ( part# 33 55 2 229 136 ) and appropriate rubber bushings
12- Bently manual for added security
13- small needle nose plyers
Place wheel chucks around front wheels.
Jack up the car as the Bentley manual says, but doesn't say how. I used the differential which is not the correct place, but no one could say where the appropriate place was. I used an old thick towel to soften the jack. Ramps may be a viable alternative.
Place jack stands under jack pads. Pads are directly in front of rear wheels.
Lower car slowly onto stands. Be sure they are correctly on the pads. BE CAREFUL!!!
Here is the sway bar. It should look very similar to the new one. Visually compare them before unbolting anything.
Use 13mm wrench & 13 socket wrech the loosen / remove this bolt first.
The top of the braket is held in place via a tongue and groove system. Leave the bushings on the bar. Don not move / remove bushings from the bar. You will see why later.
Use 16mm socket and 16mm cresent wrench to rmove the sway bar link bolt.
Ah ha, the Bently manual doesn't tell you this! Place the cresent wrench as shown in the pic. It's hard to even see in person. The backside of the bolt has 2 flat spots to keep it from spinning.
All the nut & bolts undone. Time to wiggle to old sway bar from it's home.
The old & new.
Place new bushings in the same spot on the new bar, as they were located on the old bar.
Reassemble by following the steps in reverse.
Oh, the small needle nose plyers. If by some chance the sway bar link boots came off while using your 16mm cresent wrench, use the plyers to pop the boots back into place. It is hard to see, but the boot is held in place with a nipple and small rubber band system. Do not leave the link exposed.
Fin.
Good Luck.
Now if someone is daring enough to try. There seems to be 2 different M package FRONT sway bars for the 6 cylinders, which can't use the M5 front sway. They seem to differ in size only. Here's the link for part numbers if you would like to give it a go http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...57&hg=31&fg=10 It looks to be a jump in size from the standard 22.5mm to 24mm & 25mm.
Last edited by Jackcat559; 09-26-2007 at 05:22 PM.
So how does she ride now? Any noticable difference? I agree with you about the $450 vs. $130. I will definitely consider this route as opposed to the Eibach package.
BTW that is one clean undercarriage!!
9/30/2007 - 200,000 Miles!
11/29/10 - 300,000 miles and counting! 4/10/2012 - 332,635! 01/14/2013 - 350,000 miles! 10/25/15 - 395,872 End of the Road
Never explain yourself... Your friends don't need it and your enemies won't believe you anyway!
Yes. I was following my wife home one day while she was driving the car, and saw how the bare metal of the subframe & carrier stood out. It may sound a bit prissy, but the bare metal and the road grim just looked nasty and incomplete. Kinda like they foegot to paint it.
So, two weeks ago we scrubbed it down, primered and painted it. Anything that could be seen from behind that was bare metal was done. Everything else such the exhaust, rubber bushings, etc was taped off.
Hey mods how about an e39 DIY section. I've got diff and engine oil changes comming up soon.
Did the M5 sway help dial out some of the cars built in understeer?
I haven't had a chance to relly push her yet. In general yes, and a much flatter feel cornering. It definatlygave the car a sportier feel with less roll. Money and time well spent. A definate recomendation to anyone.
Great write up! Also going to order from Max as a winter project.
Now I was going to use ramps vs. jacking up car, any issues with that?
I have the M-sport package so I assume I already have the 24 or 25 mm sway bar...correct?
'00 540iA Sport w/235k+ Original TCG's, Vanos and transmission.*Trans failure at 244k+...FS Now
Nice write up on the install!
Be sure to keep an eye on those sway bar brackets, with the larger M5 bar, they like to break with the additional stress. Replaced mine with the thicker upgraded ones after the passenger side broke in two pieces (this is a common M5 problem).
Chris
Negative, you do not have an M5 sway bar unless you put one on it.
First of all, the rear sway bar is 14mm on your M-Tech and 16mm on the M5.
Also, In reference to Jackcats, original post:
<begin paste>
Now if someone is daring enough to try. There seems to be 2 different M package FRONT sway bars. They seem to differ in size only. It looks to be a jump in size from the standard 22.5mm to 24mm & 25mm.
<end paste>
Yeah, it shows those two for the M-Tech. However, the M5 shows 27mm. Why wouldn't you go that route? M5 front and rear rather than M-Tech front and M5 rear?
couple ways you can go,
Rogue $50 http://www.rogueengineering.com/Merc...Category_Code=
TCD $120 (I've seen these else where for cheaper, but can't recall off the top of my head) http://www.beastpower.com/Merchant2/...e=TC-BE39-RSBB
I think Dinan also has a upgraded bracket, but didn't see it on their site.
Chris
I don't know. The Bently manual says to jack up the car. After doing the DIY I don't see why ramps can't be used.
The 6 cylindrs can't use the M5 front sway. Most of the talk for these cars has been a bout a full kit, or only the M5 rear sway. The reference in the original post was for these cars specifically (original DIY post has been edited to clarify this). The 540 can use the M5 front sway bar
Last edited by Jackcat559; 09-27-2007 at 06:50 AM.
1). I'm ready to drive down to MD to have the underside of my car detailed FTW.
2). We need to hear the impact/change this had on your car's handling!
"I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread
Wow fellas! We have been doing a lot of work on the car in the past few months, and it's just easier to perform the job car when she's clean.
( cam shaft sensors, headers, differential, springs, etc..)
Probably going to take the car out tonight for a drive and snap some pics of her in the her natural enviorment.
Let me be clear, we wanna know about this M5 rear sway bar (cause some of us ordered one recently and will install very soon *cough*). We're looking for you to go out and push the snot out of your car, then let us know your thoughts. The only pic we want is from the driver's seat of your car being raced through corners and curves.
Detailed undercarriage is FTW! Nice.
Edit: We also need you to get stainless steel brake lines to complete that undercarriage. Then, the circle will be complete.
"I'd smash that (Jennifer Connelly) like a failed coup in sub-Saharan Africa."
~Macktheknife in my epic Jennifer Connelly OT Thread
Is this mod highly recomended for 97 e39 540's front and rear ?
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