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Thread: TS Parts/Repair List

  1. #126
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    Tanks95 is offline M3s Only Have Two Doors BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    If it was in an M Coupe (or Rdstr) I'd say it comes out the bottom easily enough; might have to unbolt the lollipop temporarily to pass the starters out, then back in.

    I don't know when the change was made, but my '95 M3 was attached with bolts AND nuts, the later starters have threaded bosses eliminating the nuts. Let's hope yours is like that...

    Honestly, if it came down to a choice, I'd rather drop the trans out to change the starter, than to tear down the whole induction system (especially since you're working off a lift and all__speaking of which, don't they make life wonderful?!?!).

    I still have a few gaskets, if you resort to that.
    ditto my 95 has bolts and nuts.

    agreed, i would rather drop the tranny...quicker and easier. But, I am thinking i can use some magic and get her out from below.

    AND YES! Man o man, i dont know if these knees and back could do what i used to do many moons ago. That lift was one of the best investments ever!

    (memory lane) - i can remember years ago, it was nothing to put it up on jack stands, unbolt the tranny, place it on my chest, and slide out from under the car, replace clutch, place tranny back on chest and jimmy it back into position with no issue......but after a few hundred airborne jumps, and 26 years of active duty....not so much these days. ...wow, i miss that guy....lol
    Last edited by Tanks95; 01-16-2019 at 11:28 AM.

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  2. #127
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    What weight and brand oil is recommended with TS setups? What is everyone running here and what are your results?

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  4. #129
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    Tanks95 is offline M3s Only Have Two Doors BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Waynegro View Post
    What weight and brand oil is recommended with TS setups? What is everyone running here and what are your results?
    I have used both Mobile 15/50 and Kenne Bell TS Oil.

    Results....they both work.

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  5. #130
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    Right on, thanks for the information fellas. I think I'm gonna give the Castrol Syntec 10w-40 a try.

  6. #131
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    @ Randy....yup, gonna need once of those fancy Beverly Hills gaskets you had made. Best way to get the starter out is by removing the TS.

    Ive removed it a few times in the past, no big issue.

    PM Sent

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  7. #132
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    Nothing like a warm bubble bath...
    WIL_3806 by William Wallace, on Flickr

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  8. #133
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    Has anyone from experience documented or remembered which parts are impacted and thus more complicated to access due to the location of the supercharger. I have to imagine that is complicates the replacement process of quite a few parts. It would be nice to know so a guy can start saving ahead of time instead of getting knocked over the head at the repair shop when the guy tells you he has to remove the SC to get to a $15 hose or something.

    On another note, I've had my ESTS for a month or so now and the instant power and torque when you want to pass someone is incredible. Only About a third throttle to half throttle in first gear and the back end will kick out but the control and feedback of the car feels pretty predictable. Still being super careful with getting used to the increased power.

  9. #134
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    Thanks Randy!

    WIL_3984 by William Wallace, on Flickr

    WIL_3996 by William Wallace, on Flickr

    Yup its a LOT thicker than the OG Gasket.

    WIL_3991 by William Wallace, on Flickr

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  10. #135
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    It does look a tad-mite better than the old one!

    Thanks again!

  11. #136
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    New TS Owner

    Installed a AA TS kit I picked up! Still playing with the tuning (Romraider) as I wasn't able to pull any data sheets with the 42lb Lucas latency numbers.

    She's been a blast to drive to far, sounds much beefier with only having a catback, and hits 11psi boost!

    ..this is where my concern comes it, its only stage 1 and doesnt have the Lavinova aftercooler.. I reached out to Craig at AA but haven't heard anything and expect to have to fabricate the assembly myself. Being and aero mfg. engineer, it should be a problem but are there any dimensions or PNs out there to get me started? If going full fab, I'd like to see if fitting 4 instead of 3 cores is possible as well as reducing pressure drop across the cores. End goal is 450whp.
    Twin screws

  12. #137
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    Does the Stg-1 AA manifold have the provision for cores, but they're just left out?

    There a shop is Sarasota, FL that I believe is the US distributor for the Laminova line & accessories.

    https://www.batinc.net/laminova-cooling I've dealt with Eric there numerous times in the past (not that I expect him to remember...).

    I have a lot of pictures of the Eurosport version manifold scattered throughout this album, if you're interested enough to look. I had to completely tear it down to unbolt the manifold to remove the compressor__don't know if AA used the 5th-hidden bolt of not, just be forewarned that the possibility exists before you resort to prying it apart.

    http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/index.php?/category/22

    Pic for validity



    Edit: I still have one of these in a disassembled state, so might be able to help you with dimensions...
    Last edited by Randy Forbes; 04-13-2019 at 02:24 PM.

  13. #138
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    I fitted a 2nd-hand AA/TS to this car: http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/index.php?/category/372

    Side by side: ES/TS vs AA/TS


  14. #139
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    So for the AA manifold, the assembly that Randy shows is correct, with the 3 - 332mm cores, and the extrusion sections in between. On the kit, the manifold is unchanged from the Stage 2+. What I don't know/recall, is what the end caps look like, so a picture of the manifold assembly (on the car is fine) would be helpful to me.

    The intercooler core assembly with the extrusions will slide in from the end of the manifold. You will have to remove the manifold from the engine to do it, however there is no requirement to remove the compressor from the manifold. If you choose to do so, you will have to make a gasket or seal it. The manifold as designed does not use the 5th bolt to attach the compressor.

    If you don't have the real intercooler end caps, if AA cannot supply the parts, I can give you the drawings for them. They are pretty simple, just need to be bored accurately, and then some holes done appropriately from the top/bottom to connect the flow paths and then tapped to allow NPT plugs to be installed.

    If you want to increase intercooler capacity, you will basically have to redesign the manifold. I have played with an updated design with significantly greater capacity recently, due to a desire to push my car to much higher power levels, but haven't taken any action to complete the design and make any parts yet. Work and life get in the way!

    The stock AA manifold has made ~450whp in JMC's M coupe with the stock intercooler, but with a 2.0L compressor in place of the 1.7L.

    Steve
    Have you been Screwed?

  15. #140
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    Well InDTM3, you just heard from the man that designed/developed your AA/TS setup!

    Hi Steve, glad to know you're still in it to win it

  16. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by stimpee View Post
    So for the AA manifold, the assembly that Randy shows is correct, with the 3 - 332mm cores, and the extrusion sections in between. On the kit, the manifold is unchanged from the Stage 2+. What I don't know/recall, is what the end caps look like, so a picture of the manifold assembly (on the car is fine) would be helpful to me.

    The intercooler core assembly with the extrusions will slide in from the end of the manifold. You will have to remove the manifold from the engine to do it, however there is no requirement to remove the compressor from the manifold. If you choose to do so, you will have to make a gasket or seal it. The manifold as designed does not use the 5th bolt to attach the compressor.

    If you don't have the real intercooler end caps, if AA cannot supply the parts, I can give you the drawings for them. They are pretty simple, just need to be bored accurately, and then some holes done appropriately from the top/bottom to connect the flow paths and then tapped to allow NPT plugs to be installed.

    If you want to increase intercooler capacity, you will basically have to redesign the manifold. I have played with an updated design with significantly greater capacity recently, due to a desire to push my car to much higher power levels, but haven't taken any action to complete the design and make any parts yet. Work and life get in the way!

    The stock AA manifold has made ~450whp in JMC's M coupe with the stock intercooler, but with a 2.0L compressor in place of the 1.7L.

    Steve
    Any details to share on the new manifold design?? Inquiring minds are interested :-)
    1997 M3
    1999 Z3 M Coupe - Turbocharged

  17. #142
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    You holding out on us Stimpee 😎. I’m always game for more intake cooling capacity. My car will Always be available to test your new designs. I also have an s54 that needs your attention 😈

    Jmc
    Last edited by jmc; 04-16-2019 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Add

  18. #143
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    I am in the process of rebuilding an AA stage2 twin screw.

    As far as I know, the difference between stage 1 and stage 2+ construction is really in the intercooler housing end caps. The stage 1 caps attach with only 4 hex bolts and do not have interior cooling channels for fluid. The stage 2 has the channels and attaches with 8 bolts.

    For reference, here are a few pictures of my AA manifold and intercooler configuration that I took while I was disassembling the unit.

    Shot of the inside face of the rear intercooler end cap. Note 1/2" NPT fittings and fluid channels between the two lower (in this pic) intercooler bores.


    The intercooler housing, with end cap removed. Note orientation of intercoolers.


    Me pulling an intercooler out. I was keeping some positive pressure on the top so as not to bend the cooling fins.


    Looking into the intercooler housing with one core removed.


    Looking into the intercooler housing, through the compressor mounting, with all cores and supports removed.


    If you have any specific questions about the parts or need measurements, let me know.
    Last edited by Keda; 04-16-2019 at 01:52 PM.

  19. #144
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    Wow Keda, XLNT post!

    Confirms what I expected, that the two (2) types of manifolds are very similar in design and construction.

    Your Laminova cores have scale on the water-wetted passages; I soaked a set in white vinegar for several days to remove the scale/residue (either of which limits heat transfer) on the last one I rebuilt.









    Comparison of Eurosport end caps. I found it NECESSARY to "lap" ALL mating surfaces back to flat; the plenum to manifold faces were particularly off!


  20. #145
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    Thanks, Randy. I actually used your photos (above) to make my soaking rig, and then sat the cores in white vinegar for 24hrs. I will reinspect before putting everything back together and soak again if I think I can get anymore residue off. There were a few lingering spots that had residue.

    Here is a post-soak "beauty" shot of the intercoolers drying off.

    Last edited by Keda; 04-16-2019 at 11:46 AM.

  21. #146
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  22. #147
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    I guess maybe I should clean mine up. I found an oil catch can is a must with these systems. But a good rebuild is easy enough.

    Jmc
    Motor: Hurtig/AA custom 2.0l TS OBD2 AA tuned 444whp/384wtq SAE 470whp/400wtq STD
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    COMING SOON: custom intake

  23. #148
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    Not pictured in these photos are the gaskets between the intercooler housing and end caps. I got a few extras from AA, but plan on scanning them in case I need to make my own in the future. They seem like the kind of paper gasket that you could make with the right material...or easily find a shop to.

    Also not pictured are the rubber seals/o-rings at the ends of the intercoolers. I was able to order those from the place in FL that Randy mentioned a few posts up. They also sell the Johnson pump.

  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by Keda View Post
    Not pictured in these photos are the gaskets between the intercooler housing and end caps. I got a few extras from AA, but plan on scanning them in case I need to make my own in the future. They seem like the kind of paper gasket that you could make with the right material...or easily find a shop to.

    Also not pictured are the rubber seals/o-rings at the ends of the intercoolers. I was able to order those from the place in FL that Randy mentioned a few posts up. They also sell the Johnson pump.
    I actually had a hard time with those, like they were too large a cross-section and wanted to "roll" and not slide. Lets be clear here: I haven't installed an O-ring dry__without lubrication__in probably more than forty (>40) years.

    Fortunately, I have on hand a wide selection of ASE & Metric sized O-rings (assortment kits are relatively cheap) and by playing with sizes, came up with a good fit (stretching out a slightly smaller O-ring reduces its cross-section__duh ).

    Original O-rings, and one (1) shim-spacer per core, per end (6-total shims) seen during disassembly



    Going back to the lapping process, this was the biggest offender of this setup



    Persistence pays off



    During assembly, the cores were clocked to put the large gap in fins facing incoming/outgoing air flow (that's the way they were removed, and noted in Laminova tech sheets)


  25. #150
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    I had no idea everyone was working hard to keep these alive!

    With that said, and update to my above post, I found voltage offset data from http://www.efidynotuning.com/injdata.htm for the Delphi / Lucas - 42 lb/hr @ 40psi (Delphi 01D030B) in case anyone has issues finding it.

    voltage 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 8
    ms 0.5 0.5 0.56 0.69 0.78 0.94 1.13 1.81


    I scaled this with a 5th order polynomial to fit the e36 M3 table and used 0.5 for the higher values:

    Voltage 6.01564 7.03524 7.95288 9.99208 12.03128 13.96852 16.00772 24.9802
    MS 4.305 2.635 1.841 1.124 0.789 0.576 0.500 0.500


    I'm not sure hot accurate the source data is but this appears to be working much better so far! Fuel map is smoothed out more reasonably than expected (+/-3% STFT) and now the cranking and cold start maps are next to be revisited.


    Back to the aftercooler.. Randy and Keda, looks like you two are having quite a ball with these units. I had not realized the AA center section extusions were "floating" between the cores as opposed to being one large assembly, these should be fairly easy to machine, utilizing the diameter of the core for the profile and then finding enough Z-height to drill and tap the ends.
    How it ties into the caps with the 8 SHCS makes sense. Am I correct in noticing that the center slot goes through all three of the front end caps and only the bottom two of the rear end caps? Also I am guessing these are the 39.5mm not the 45mm diameter units (http://www.laminova.se/cooler-guide/intercooler).

    As Steve mentioned, it is now evident to me that a different manifold design would clearly be needed to incorporate more that 3 cores, (without diving into an analysis to prove 4 smaller diameter cores occupying the same area would be less effective). Again, I understand the issue with moving to higher boost is with a lack of cooling, not the pressure drop across the cores being too significant. However, if the pressure drop still has significant margin, reducing the airflow gap could at least provide a small % increase in cooling efficiency. Laminova recommends 15mm gap (clocking also shown here).
    Aftercooler gap.jpgCore Flow Area.jpg

    Keda, strong point mentioning the o-rings and gaskets. I am surprised I did not see the AA noting these as a wear item but there must be a replacement in metric stock from
    https://www.theoringstore.com/ for the o-rings, depending on their durometer. PN: SL00104 "O-ring for the IC39,5 (intercooler) cores. O-ring dimensions 29,74x3,53" - as per http://www.laminova.se/products/part...-oring/SL00104. You mentioned scanning the gaskets, would you be doing this with a flatbed scanner and then converting the image to a drawing?

    Randy, can you elaborate on the shims used, are they oring support rings (PN:
    TB00188) or used for low tolerance fitment of the end plate? I could not quite decipher them in your image if there were on the inlet end caps of the cores (red arrow guess below). Nice work lapping the face of the charger inlet, the kit must have had a lot of RTV on that face!
    Possible Shim Location.jpg

    As far as dimensions go, there are minimal dimensions on the Laminova website but I assume the general milling dimensions would be provided through them. Steve, I have sent you a PM as well regarding drawings.
    Twin screws

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