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Thread: TS Parts/Repair List

  1. #101
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    99 M3, 13 650 Gran Coupe
    realized i need a new air filter, then remembered this thread.

    bump for all the newish TS drivers

    '99 Hellrot M3 vert; Eurosport twin-screw SC w/ 76mm pulley + Schrick cam (i.e., TRM Stage 2 TS), UDP's,
    oil cooler; GC coilovers; Z3 steering rack; Euro 6-spd trans; Diffsonline 3.46 LSD

  2. #102
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    Tanks95 is offline M3s Only Have Two Doors BMW CCA Member
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    good stuff here!

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  3. #103
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    i miss Johno's neuroses

    '99 Hellrot M3 vert; Eurosport twin-screw SC w/ 76mm pulley + Schrick cam (i.e., TRM Stage 2 TS), UDP's,
    oil cooler; GC coilovers; Z3 steering rack; Euro 6-spd trans; Diffsonline 3.46 LSD

  4. #104
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    99' M3, 98' M3, 07' X5
    Time to revive this thread yet again!!! I'm having issues with the bybass valve hose collapsing on the ESTS kit. The internal spring is shot and the hose has completely broken down due to oil saturation. Does anyone happen to have a part number on a properly sized replacement hose. I'm planning to sleeve the new hose with 1-1/2" or 1-5/8" copper tubing to prevent collapsing in the future.

    On a side note, all the oil sludge in this hose has me thnking about a catch can between the valve cover and the oil separator. I'm sure the laminova heat exchangers have to be covered in this mess.

  5. #105
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    Tanks95 is offline M3s Only Have Two Doors BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpinesaloon View Post
    Time to revive this thread yet again!!! I'm having issues with the bybass valve hose collapsing on the ESTS kit. The internal spring is shot and the hose has completely broken down due to oil saturation. Does anyone happen to have a part number on a properly sized replacement hose. I'm planning to sleeve the new hose with 1-1/2" or 1-5/8" copper tubing to prevent collapsing in the future.

    On a side note, all the oil sludge in this hose has me thnking about a catch can between the valve cover and the oil separator. I'm sure the laminova heat exchangers have to be covered in this mess.

    picture?

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  6. #106
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    98 E36 M3/4
    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...-hunting/page3

    pics in post 41-45.

    Was wondering whether the 2.1L Kenne bell SC came with such a hose?
    And Tanks could you share you camshaft setup? Looking to drop some in.

  7. #107
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    Okay, sorry late on the reply. As far as the hose goes, I don’t think it’s a proprietary Eurosport part, so I would just remove, measure inside diameter, and hit the internet or your local parts shop and find a replacement?

    Which you have probably already done at this point.

    Cams are a OEM and Schrick mix (Intake / Exhaust)


    William
    Last edited by Tanks95; 09-03-2013 at 01:35 PM.

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  8. #108
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    Does the MAF get damaged from the oil from the ITG filter? Anyway to test it?

    Also bump for any new owners.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alpine 318is View Post
    Does the MAF get damaged from the oil from the ITG filter? Anyway to test it?

    Also bump for any new owners.
    the ITG filter should only receive a light coat of the "spray on" oil. This is not a time where more is better.

    Also, just part of routine maintenance, i clean the MAF with the over the counter MAF cleaner found at any automotive store.

    *Also, i wish i had known this earlier. The Spray oil that is used on the ITG filter is actually corrosive to the filter, if left on it too long. Therefore, READ the instructions carefully, it should be cleaned (washed) with the appropriate powdered cleaner at regular intervals. If not, the spray oil will decay your filter at a faster rate than normal.

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  10. #110
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    98 M3 sedan
    Quote Originally Posted by Tanks95 View Post
    the ITG filter should only receive a light coat of the "spray on" oil. This is not a time where more is better.

    Also, just part of routine maintenance, i clean the MAF with the over the counter MAF cleaner found at any automotive store.

    *Also, i wish i had known this earlier. The Spray oil that is used on the ITG filter is actually corrosive to the filter, if left on it too long. Therefore, READ the instructions carefully, it should be cleaned (washed) with the appropriate powdered cleaner at regular intervals. If not, the spray oil will decay your filter at a faster rate than normal.
    Hi all,
    I was just pointed to this thread, great info, hope it still gets attention I've newly acquired at Eurosport SC m3. Mine came with a "cone" filter like the K&N ones. I see pictures of all of you having the more foam looking ones? Does it make any difference assuming I'm careful with the oil treatment?

    Next question - supposedly my SC was installed 20k miles ago. I have a CEL light I'm trying to track and read the gasket is a weak point. Would this create a lean condition? How do you all notice if your gasket is bad? I don't hear anything leaking during my pressurized vacuum tests.

    Lastly, any tricks to getting at the ICV to inspect / clean without taking off the SC?

    Thanks,
    Andrew
    99 528i Sport

  11. #111
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    99-01 M Cpe & Rdts, X5M
    Smoke test is the only reliable way__hard to see a vacuum leak, but you can see smoke!

    My ES/TS Coupe recently started sucking air at the intake manifold (near #3 runner) but I can't complain; I did the installation over ten (>10) years ago, for the then owner, and I'm the 2nd owner since then.

    No estimates yet on delivery, but now with the stock od Shrick gaskets depleted__at least I haven't been able to find any more__I'm talking to a guy about getting some water-jet cut. I'm planning to go about 50% thicker (from memory, I'm thinking the Shrick's are .040") to allow a little more crush. I'm pretty sure that Josh used the Shrick gaskets, as they were readily available 10-15 years ago. It does surprise me though, given the detail he expended on everything else, that he didn't cut the manifold face for the BMW profile gaskets (O-ring type).

    You can definitely remove the IAV without taking off the sc! Remove the air filter, MAF and t/body and it's right there; remove the couple of M6 Allen head bolts and the IAV & CCV (pressure regulator) will be in your hands. I'd get a couple of those gray grommets (same piece used on a stock manifold) beforehand.

    Welcome to the club! Last night, I put the first seven (7.7, actually) miles on this fresh build; still some work to do, but now with some 20 miles on it, runs stronger than expected, and zero DTCs! Next big step for this car is adding the Race Logic t/c (since it impacts the fuel injector signals, the basic s/c installation needed to be proven first...).

    Last edited by Randy Forbes; 03-10-2017 at 11:34 AM.

  12. #112
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    Thanks Randy. Car is certianly fun, just hesitant to push too much with the CEL, would have much more piece of mind if I can get that figured out.

    Yeah I've been searching online for the Schrick manifold gasket and can't find anywhere. Do we all have any current recommendations on replacement ones if that's what's needed?

    I did a pressure test and could hear some hissing out of that spring loaded problem tube in the back, fixed that but code still didn't go away. I don't have a way to get smoke in, but I think i'd be able to hear any other leaks given how easy it was to spot that first one. I've pressurized it pretty good to the point my connection to the intake blew off, but still haven't heard any leaks. Will mess with the ICV this afternoon.
    99 528i Sport

  13. #113
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    anyone know a part # for the gasket that connects the throttle body to the supercharger? Real OEM and pelican parts look like too big of a gasket. Was this an aftermarket gasket? Mine was broken when I took things apart to clean the ICV.

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_6078

    http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...hrottle+gasket

    Thanks,
    Andrew
    99 528i Sport

  14. #114
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    The throttle body contains the gasket, hence it uses the stock one.

  15. #115
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    97 M3/4 - Hurtig/AA TS
    Some added information, since I just dug it up based on questions in another thread:

    For Active Autowerke kit, Throttle Cable:

    35 41 1 164 636 from RHD 328 obd2

    Also, the Active Autowerke kit uses their own Bypass valve (more of a poppet style valve like a turbo BOV) rather than the butterfly valve used on the ES kit and most other PD applications. I was not totally a fan of this, and have considered switching my car over to the butterfly valve. I think the AA valve is pretty robust, but the actuation appears to be less smooth.

    Also, I notice a lot of issues with intake gaskets. I am glad I incorporated the stock OBD1 intake gasket rings into the intake manifold flange. Seems to be more robust than the Shrick/Paper gasket approach.

    Keep on Screwin'!
    Have you been Screwed?

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by stimpee View Post
    Some added information, since I just dug it up based on questions in another thread:

    For Active Autowerke kit, Throttle Cable:

    35 41 1 164 636 from RHD 328 obd2

    Also, the Active Autowerke kit uses their own Bypass valve (more of a poppet style valve like a turbo BOV) rather than the butterfly valve used on the ES kit and most other PD applications. I was not totally a fan of this, and have considered switching my car over to the butterfly valve. I think the AA valve is pretty robust, but the actuation appears to be less smooth.

    Also, I notice a lot of issues with intake gaskets. I am glad I incorporated the stock OBD1 intake gasket rings into the intake manifold flange. Seems to be more robust than the Shrick/Paper gasket approach.

    Keep on Screwin'!
    Yes, well at least it was for me, but only a decade after the initial installation. I believe the fault can be traced back to the support bracket under the supercharger having loosened up, allowing the manifold to pull away from the top of the port, sucking in the gasket.

    But I did go ahead and have a small batch of gaskets made up, in the event it happens to someone else.

    However, I too wish that the Eurosport incorporated the OE profile gasket, as it could've been more accommodating in this situation.

  17. #117
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    An update on Shrick/Eurosport manifold gaskets; I finally got around to having some made. At .060", they are 50% thicker than the ones used originally (.040"), and have no apparent negative effect on any physical dimensions.

    By getting a small batch of them made (25-27 maybe, based on the stock of material they had on hand) I was able to get the price down from an initial quote of $70.00 apiece (!!) to $40.00 ea. Shipping via USPS Priority Mail is $18.00 for any quantity (lower 48 states).

  18. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    An update on Shrick/Eurosport manifold gaskets; I finally got around to having some made. At .060", they are 50% thicker than the ones used originally (.040"), and have no apparent negative effect on any physical dimensions.

    By getting a small batch of them made (25-27 maybe, based on the stock of material they had on hand) I was able to get the price down from an initial quote of $70.00 apiece (!!) to $40.00 ea. Shipping via USPS Priority Mail is $18.00 for any quantity (lower 48 states).
    good stuff

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  19. #119
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    2003 M3 Vert
    Info on Intake boot for the ES Twinscrew:


    You need two boots:

    13-54-1-740-073- This is the donor boot for the ICV port connection

    13-54-1-438-761-U-INT - This is the boot that is the main connection

    - You basically cut the port and sliver around the port and need to attach it to the other boot. To attach, I did mine directly below the port already on this boot for the crankcase breather. You just need to cut it to fir in the section below that is demarcated by the ribs. line it up, mark where you need a hole and drill the hole, then attach this donor port/flap. I used gorilla super glue gel. In tests it seemed to hold the best. Need to act quick though to make sure it seals well. Also need to cut the first few rubber rings off the throttle body side to make it line up right.


    Misc stuff-

    Clamps
    Gel super glue
    Hose clamps 3 and 3.5 in
    air hose connector- 13-41-1-722-944
    misc vacuum line connections. Likely a 3/8 in 90 degree connection and then a 3/8 to 1/4 connection so that you can tie into the factory breather valve.
    new M3 and wallet is getting thinner.

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by MoeMuny View Post
    update on the Eurosport Bypass Valve:

    The part itself is made by Magnuson products 805-642-8833
    http://www.magnusonproducts.com/

    part number is 45-01-31-764
    they call it an actuator the price is about $30 I think and it got to me in just a day or two
    Reviewing this thread, some of the info has timed out, so I wanted to add this about the bypass actuator. The link to the "$30.00" Magnuson one is now $100.00! When I was looking for one several years ago, I discovered that it is nearly identical to the one used on the mid-80s Buick GNX (factory turbocharged cars) and they're still available from Eaton at reasonable prices:

    https://www.ebay.com/p/Eaton-Superch...5994487&chn=ps

    As far as I can tell, the only difference is that this one has nipple connections both above and below the diaphragm, so VERIFY that you're connecting to the port that vacuum holds the valve open. When new and clean, you don't need a vacuum pump, just suck on it to test (not that I haven't tested a used one this way...).

    Do NOT plug the other port, leave it open to atmosphere (you could droop a short length of hose downward from the port if your OCD won't let you bear to look at an unused connection...).

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