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Thread: TS Parts/Repair List

  1. #76
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    Ugh. Good luck Lohe!

    Quote Originally Posted by Lohe View Post
    My ES style manifold gasket went again, I did not replace it with the shrick last time... This time I will. Ugh not looking forward to pulling the SC off again.
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  2. #77
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    Sorry to hear it. Might want to order a backup so it is on hand on only pay shipping once.

    It seems there have been several failures with the paper gasket, but not one with the Schrick gasket. True?

    Anybody still running paper would be well-advised to have the Schrick on hand for backup.

    Also a reminder. Those bolts that hold the engine-to-TS bracket on have been known to come loose.

    Seems like it might be a good idea to come up with a TS maintenance schedule:

    • Belt -- INterval?
    • Intake boot adhesive failure check -- Every 4 months???
    • Engine-to-TS bracket bolts -- Every 4 months?
    • Bypass valve operation -- When chenging oil?
    • Coolant bleed check/replace coolant in TS intercooler -- ???
    • Drain and replace TS oil -- every 5K???
    • Fuel pressure check -- Every year???
    • IC fuse check -- Seems like we know when this goes bad...
    Seem sensible or too paranoid?
    Anything else?
    Johno
    -- 2003 e46 M3
    -- 2012 S4
    -- 2013 Outback
    -- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i.


  3. #78
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    I take the bus to work.
    hahahah I would add... Check tires every month...
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  4. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johno View Post
    Sorry to hear it. Might want to order a backup so it is on hand on only pay shipping once.

    It seems there have been several failures with the paper gasket, but not one with the Schrick gasket. True?

    Anybody still running paper would be well-advised to have the Schrick on hand for backup.

    Also a reminder. Those bolts that hold the engine-to-TS bracket on have been known to come loose.

    Seems like it might be a good idea to come up with a TS maintenance schedule:

    • Belt -- INterval?
    • Intake boot adhesive failure check -- Every 4 months???
    • Engine-to-TS bracket bolts -- Every 4 months?
    • Bypass valve operation -- When chenging oil?
    • Coolant bleed check/replace coolant in TS intercooler -- ???
    • Drain and replace TS oil -- every 5K???
    • Fuel pressure check -- Every year???
    • IC fuse check -- Seems like we know when this goes bad...
    Seem sensible or too paranoid?
    Anything else?
    I would change the belt every 35-40k miles. I think the regular change interval for a serpentine belt is about 50k miles, but depending on your pulley size, you're putting a little more stress on the belt than stock. I usually just inspect mine at every oil change for cracks. The twinscrew oil I replace every other oil change, or about 14k miles. For the IC fuse, just open up your reservoir and check to see you have proper flow. I do this every week when i check my tire pressure and liquid levels.

  5. #80
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    Bump for coolant level sensor add and injector source add.
    Johno
    -- 2003 e46 M3
    -- 2012 S4
    -- 2013 Outback
    -- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i.


  6. #81
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    Quick question, all the auto parts stores locally stopped carrying 15W-50 Long Life, could I just use 10W-40 Long Life instead? Or should I order some 15W-50 from the interwebz?
    99 M3..............twinscrewed and wallet hungry
    07 FJ.......... lots of skid plates, lots of trail damage
    82 500 SEC......ROADHAUS

  7. #82
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    I found it at the local super walmart. Maybe try looking there? I think all ,of the walmart stores carry the same stuff.
    Johno
    -- 2003 e46 M3
    -- 2012 S4
    -- 2013 Outback
    -- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i.


  8. #83
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    This is a very useful thread!

    Does anyone know if AA and Eurosport use the same bypass valve? Is there any symptoms of a bad bypass?
    99 Alpine/Gutted ///M3



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    - RIP http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1191513


  9. #84
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    I don't think they do. But I guess. Maybe Stimpee or Eurosport will chimr in.

    To test the BPV hook a vaccum pump to it and apply suction. If it moves on suction and moves back on release, it's good. Or you can observe the position of the lever on the bottom at rest, and then start up the car and see if there is movement into a new position.

    I suspect if it were not working there would be drivability hints.

    Now that Eurosport is providing excellent customer support there is hope this thread will be enhanced with facts from the manufacturer.
    Last edited by Johno; 02-23-2010 at 04:43 PM.
    Johno
    -- 2003 e46 M3
    -- 2012 S4
    -- 2013 Outback
    -- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i.


  10. #85
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    Tanks95 is offline M3s Only Have Two Doors BMW CCA Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johno View Post
    Sorry to hear it. Might want to order a backup so it is on hand on only pay shipping once.

    It seems there have been several failures with the paper gasket, but not one with the Schrick gasket. True?

    Anybody still running paper would be well-advised to have the Schrick on hand for backup.

    Also a reminder. Those bolts that hold the engine-to-TS bracket on have been known to come loose.

    Seems like it might be a good idea to come up with a TS maintenance schedule:

    • Belt -- INterval?
    • Intake boot adhesive failure check -- Every 4 months???
    • Engine-to-TS bracket bolts -- Every 4 months?
    • Bypass valve operation -- When chenging oil?
    • Coolant bleed check/replace coolant in TS intercooler -- ???
    • Drain and replace TS oil -- every 5K???
    • Fuel pressure check -- Every year???
    • IC fuse check -- Seems like we know when this goes bad...
    Seem sensible or too paranoid?
    Anything else?
    nice thread. i've only had one issue with my TS. For months after i installed it, i had a hard to start issue. I mean like 5 - 6 seconds of cranking time unless the car was absolutely hot, or just shut down. this went on for months, i posted the issue here and i still could not figure it out. Also, along with that, sometime under hard acceleration i would experience a hard bucking, like the car was losing fuel. That’s when it donned on me.

    I had to flash back to the old days of when my Chevy would run out of gas and buck just before it died. That led me to pull the fuel pump and check it. Once i got it out and inspected the little flex hose, i found a hole in the hose cause by ME being a little too excited about getting the hose clamp tightened.

    That hose was allowing the system to drain overnight while the car sat (thus creating the hard to start)

    After i replaced the hose and used a little less torque on the clamp, she started like a new car from then on out.

    I say all of that to say, i believe on a modded car you should check everything all the time. you CANNOT treat it like a new car and just open the hood every 4000 miles. Most of us are under the hood all the time even when she’s running fine. I constantly look and check and look and recheck.

    Lastly, i ALWAYS listen for the water pump to start before i crank the car, ALWAYS, ALWAYS!!!

    William
    Last edited by Tanks95; 02-23-2010 at 06:34 PM.

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  11. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johno View Post
    Now that Eurosport is providing excellent customer support there is hope this thread will be enhanced with facts from the manufacturer.

    Renewed effort by them?

    I would love to get my hands on a set of installation instructions

  12. #87
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    upper radiator hose failed on me today (nicked by ts pulley again). is there some better more robust solution?

    '99 Hellrot M3 vert; Eurosport twin-screw SC w/ 76mm pulley + Schrick cam (i.e., TRM Stage 2 TS), UDP's,
    oil cooler; GC coilovers; Z3 steering rack; Euro 6-spd trans; Diffsonline 3.46 LSD

  13. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by agu845 View Post
    upper radiator hose failed on me today (nicked by ts pulley again). is there some better more robust solution?
    What motor mounts are you running and when were they last replaced?
    04 IR 330i ZHP | ESS TS2+ SC | MagnaFlow "headers" | KMS 3.64 LSD | AST 4100 coilovers 550/650 | APEX ARC-8 18x9 | H&R front sway bar | Vorshlag camber plates, RTAB limiters | TMS subframe & swaybar reinforcements | UUC SSK & DSSR | UUC TM & TME | BimmerWorld engine mounts | Dinan strut & shock tower bars | EMP Stewart water pump

  14. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by agu845 View Post
    upper radiator hose failed on me today (nicked by ts pulley again). is there some better more robust solution?
    You HAVE that little bracket (attaches to the TS SNOUT)
    that keeps the hose at a distance from the pulley/belt. I can see it in your signature.

    Does it need to be tweaked a little bit? Is it still there?

    ZHP,
    even with a completely broken left front subframe at the motor mount
    my engine wasn't torquing enough to have the upper hose tap against the pulley.
    Last edited by milKt; 07-04-2011 at 08:38 PM.


  15. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by milKt View Post
    You HAVE that little bracket (attaches to the TS SNOUT)
    that keep the hose at a dstance from the pulley/belt. I can see it in your signature.

    Does it need to be tweaked a little bit? Is it still there?

    ZHP,
    even with a completely broken left front subframe at the motor mount
    my engine wasn't torquing enough to have the upper hose tap against the pulley.
    Same question as above. I had to tweak mine also. Just a little bend upward did the trick, not too much as to fatigue the metal.

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  16. #91
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    well. you guys were right. it needed a little tweaking. angle was unfavorable

    one of the problems is (like a jackass) a long time ago I stripped the thread of the bolt that hold that little bracket. i re-tapped it a while ago, and while its secure, its not nearly as firm a grip as it could be. i baby the retapped screw for fear of re-stipping it. I had received a hose from Josh that had a wire coil around the outside, but as luck would have it, the contact point with the TS pulley fell between the coils on the hose.

    I removed and reapplied that coil and reinstalled on my replacement hose, making sure that it was 'in the line of sight' with the ts pulley. all is well (for now)

    BTW,still stock motor mounts from 1999 (82K miles on her). i have vorshlag mounts but havent installed them
    Last edited by agu845; 07-04-2011 at 08:51 PM.

    '99 Hellrot M3 vert; Eurosport twin-screw SC w/ 76mm pulley + Schrick cam (i.e., TRM Stage 2 TS), UDP's,
    oil cooler; GC coilovers; Z3 steering rack; Euro 6-spd trans; Diffsonline 3.46 LSD

  17. #92
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    Keep on Screwin'


  18. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by milKt View Post
    Keep on Screwin'
    oh yes.

    '99 Hellrot M3 vert; Eurosport twin-screw SC w/ 76mm pulley + Schrick cam (i.e., TRM Stage 2 TS), UDP's,
    oil cooler; GC coilovers; Z3 steering rack; Euro 6-spd trans; Diffsonline 3.46 LSD

  19. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by agu845 View Post
    well. you guys were right. it needed a little tweaking. angle was unfavorable

    one of the problems is (like a jackass) a long time ago I stripped the thread of the bolt that hold that little bracket. i re-tapped it a while ago, and while its secure, its not nearly as firm a grip as it could be. i baby the retapped screw for fear of re-stipping it. I had received a hose from Josh that had a wire coil around the outside, but as luck would have it, the contact point with the TS pulley fell between the coils on the hose.

    I removed and reapplied that coil and reinstalled on my replacement hose, making sure that it was 'in the line of sight' with the ts pulley. all is well (for now)

    BTW,still stock motor mounts from 1999 (82K miles on her). i have vorshlag mounts but havent installed them
    Good stuff, you should be fine now.
    TS Tulsa

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  20. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by baja5337 View Post
    Renewed effort by them?

    I would love to get my hands on a set of installation instructions
    Sorry I just saw this. I've been out of the forum for a while. I have installation instructions if anybody needs them. Ideally you would get them from Josh.

    Quote Originally Posted by agu845 View Post
    upper radiator hose failed on me today (nicked by ts pulley again). is there some better more robust solution?
    Quote Originally Posted by agu845 View Post
    well. you guys were right. it needed a little tweaking. angle was unfavorable

    one of the problems is (like a jackass) a long time ago I stripped the thread of the bolt that hold that little bracket. i re-tapped it a while ago, and while its secure, its not nearly as firm a grip as it could be. i baby the retapped screw for fear of re-stipping it. I had received a hose from Josh that had a wire coil around the outside, but as luck would have it, the contact point with the TS pulley fell between the coils on the hose.

    I removed and reapplied that coil and reinstalled on my replacement hose, making sure that it was 'in the line of sight' with the ts pulley. all is well (for now)

    BTW,still stock motor mounts from 1999 (82K miles on her). i have vorshlag mounts but havent installed them

    That hose design runs too close to the nose. What worked for me: Make a support that pulls the hose toward the center of the engine. this involves using zip ties to hold the hose away from the TS nose.

    1. When coolant hose is hot wrap 3 heavy duty zip ties around the radiator hose, slide tie into slot but don't tighten all the way to the hose.
    2. Loop 3 heavy-duty ties underneath the ties going to the hose. Zip them to make loops.
    3. Run a few more zip ties from the engine hose point to the loops coming from the hose ties.
    4. Tighten ties that wrap around the hose, making them snug but not squeezing the hose much.
    5. Tighten all other ties, making ties in a loop equal length, approximately, so the ties are sharing load and the loops look equal.
    6. In the final step, tighten the ties from the engine hoist support to the hose loops, to pull the hose away fromthe nose wheel.
    This looks a bit funny, but it did a good job for me hjolding the hose away form the wheel.
    Johno
    -- 2003 e46 M3
    -- 2012 S4
    -- 2013 Outback
    -- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i.


  21. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by Johno View Post

    ITG Filter?
    Since I'm in the process of replacing my filter, I thought I'd add that there's now a filter on the ITG website with the same dimensions as the one that comes from ES:



    It's rated to 480HP and available for purchase here: http://www.itgfilters.net/ITG-Filter...15JC60-86C.htm

    Apparently, the G60 designation on the filter refers to the foam material - not a model number.

    HTH,

    Pete


  22. #97
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    Replacement filters (the actual G60 foam - Eurosport custom filter) are available at TRM. Give them a call if you need one.

    Quote Originally Posted by SD Pete View Post
    Since I'm in the process of replacing my filter, I thought I'd add that there's now a filter on the ITG website with the same dimensions as the one that comes from ES:



    It's rated to 480HP and available for purchase here: http://www.itgfilters.net/ITG-Filter...15JC60-86C.htm

    Apparently, the G60 designation on the filter refers to the foam material - not a model number.

    HTH,

    Pete
    Last edited by ///M3///M5; 08-24-2011 at 12:04 PM.

    "We are the music makers...and we are the dreamers of dreams."

  23. #98
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    a rare Thomas sighting...


  24. #99
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    Quote Originally Posted by milKt View Post
    a rare Thomas sighting...
    wow, you took the words from my mouth. I was like WHAT Thomas. Its like seeing a duck billed platypus.

    If your M3 doesn’t have 3 pedals and 2 doors, I would really consider contacting BMW to confirm the authenticity of your incorrectly badged mid-sized family sedan.

  25. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by M Not Z View Post
    For those who have had their radiator hose bracket bolt strip out I just fixed mine using a M6 x 1 Helicoil kit. It was a quick and easy fix.

    I inspected the barbed fitting for the idle bypass hose and found that it was separating from the HFM connecter elbow. I believe someone else had this issue in the past. I cleaned the old adhesive off and used Liquid Nails perfect glue which seams to have set up just fine. We’ll find out how well it holds after I get a few days on the road. Josh recommends superglue gel with accelerator. Everyone should keep an eye on this because it could be a source for a big leak in a place that would most likely go unnoticed.

    I recently had my water pump pulley break and I replaced it with the ES under drive pulley set. What a real nice system!

    If anyone finds anything else please add it to this thread. This is a great resource!

    When my glue came undone I used 3m trim adhesive. It is designed to handle high temps and it dries rubbery like the part it is glueing.
    Johno
    -- 2003 e46 M3
    -- 2012 S4
    -- 2013 Outback
    -- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i.


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