TS Parts/Repair List

[robb1887]

Anyone have details on the MAF jumper other than the resistor? I'm getting a MAF code and my jumper on pin 3 has the correct resistance based on the 1.91kohm resistor reading reported herein but I also have pins 1 & 4 bridged.... Seems odd based on wiring schematic of the original MAF wiring.

[Randy Forbes]

It's been an age, and I've slept since then, but I thought it was a 1.9K Ohm resistor, in the yellow wire (the signal return to DME).

That's strictly off memory, so take it with a grain of salt...

[robb1887]

It is, I missed the K.

1.91k ohm resistor on pin 3 (power wire). Further digging arrived to pin 1 is chassis ground, pin 4 is DME ground and pin 2 is sognal.

While investing my jumper I found pin 2 at the female connector was broken in the plug. I ordered all new parts to rebuild the jumper.

Edit: also found my bonded ICV hose connection in the elbow debonding. So going to be adhering that as well.

[robb1887]

Need some help. The MAF jumper. The resistor is posted at 1.91k ohms. I read yellow wire, which should be pin2. Pin3 is power and 1&4 are grounds. Can anyone confirm the following on the jumper?

2 or 3 has the 1.91k resistor
1&4 are or are not bridged in the jumper.

Edit: solved. Randy Forbes confirmed his MAF jumper and I imitated it and all of my problems went away.

1 & 4 must be bridged with the 803 MAF running an OBDII DME. Pin 2 has the 1.91k ohm resistor. Pin 3 is a direct passthrough.

This nailed my idle and cruising AFTs back around 14.7 and my WOT at 11-12 with the original ESTS tune and pulley.

[Jab31169]

Long time no post. However, me and my buddies did get to write something for the Bimmer Life publication about our 3 cars:

https://bimmerlife.com/publications/...e9WQdLl9tA07D8 Page 112

334973599_130247956654907_4290445788276958911_n.jpg

[Randy Forbes]

Good job guys!

Long time no post. However, me and my buddies did get to write something for the Bimmer Life publication about our 3 cars:

https://bimmerlife.com/publications/...e9WQdLl9tA07D8 Page 112

334973599_130247956654907_4290445788276958911_n.jpg

[99z3mclownshoe]

Hello Mr. Forbes, lately I have been putting my 1999 z3 m coupe through a little abuse and I am just wondering where I can purchase your kit from and if so, could I get an estimate? I am trying to save up enough currently. Thank you very much!

[Randy Forbes]

Hello Mr. Forbes, lately I have been putting my 1999 z3 m coupe through a little abuse and I am just wondering where I can purchase your kit from and if so, could I get an estimate? I am trying to save up enough currently. Thank you very much!

Shoot me an email at: SPORTS CARS PLUS @ AOL . COM (no spaces) for info. Thanks.

[99z3mclownshoe]

Will do thank you very much!

[robb1887]

I wanted to summarize my installation experience since there's a lot of posts with bits and pieces of information I had to dig around to collect.

Intake:
Filter- I managed somehow to score an original ITG 3.5" filter. I ordered through TRM that showed available at the time, which got updated to back ordered. This has since been removed from the website. At the backorder notification Turner listed the ITG JC60/86 as available and TRM was able to coordinate a drop shipment from them. It showed up in an ECS box. Both have since updated to unavailable since. I have yet to get the oil/cleaner so I'm running an Amsoil cone filter with the "double cone" on the free end, it has a rubber coupler with a 3.5" ID that fits on the original ESTS CF intake pipe.

Elbow- I suffered from the periodically documented ICV port grafted elbow vacuum leak. My woodworking circles have been raging about this Starbond adhesives and decided to give them a go. The "medium" (viscosity) glue with the accelerator spray (picture) made an excellent first impression. They are advertised for rubber application and heat resistance. I trimmed up the ICV port to create a small "moat" within the ribs of the elbow while still providing a face to face joint and applied it twice. Glue to the ICV face surface and accelerator to the elbow and pressed together, then filled the moat with glue and sprayed the accelerator. I likely didn't need to provide any cure wait time, but did anyway. So far so good after 1300 miles or so. I also plugged the ESTS gear case vent which is discussed further in the PCV section below.

Heat shield- My original thermal barrier material was dead and some half missing. I reapplied a sheet of Mishimoto thermal barrier sheet (PN MMHP-ASHB-2424) after removal of the original degraded stuff. If you angle it just right it gets 95% coverage with proper cutting and trimming as a "single piece" (picture).

Fueling:
Injectors- My "complete" kit came without the original injectors (long story). I was able to source the Delphi (PN D3165BA) from Racetronix without issue. INPA fuel trims dropped right in line with the "stock" Conforti/ESTS tune and Pulley.

Pump- The kit had a Walbro GSS342 that dropped right into my Mcoupe hanger without a sleeve or much cutting. It came with an unmarked/unidentified adapter/fitting (picture)for the suction port that had a 19mm OD. I ended up with a Radium Engineering pump sock (PN 14-0743) which seems to be working fine (picture). I also used the IN TANK fuel line (Gates 27093) following in Tanks95's footsteps for the supply line vs the BMW bendy straw style connector. I also used the single ear clamps to secure it in the tank (shown in the same post as the filter install).

Belt:
I wanted to keep my Rogue underdrive pulleys (WP & PS) if possible. The belt BARELY installs between the passenger side snout idler and the oversized WP pulley. As such I had to get a longer belt to accommodate as well, I'm currently running a Continental 78" belt (PN 4060780). With the stock pulley and tune, I'm having no issues. I plan to look at the GATES RPM series in the future when I go to a smaller pulley for more boost (PN K060775RPM)

PCV system:
This is likely the larges off basis changes I made to the setup. I didn't want to mess with the OE cyclone separator and converted to a full catchcan setup (ECS 8oz mounted to the driver side shock tower, picture). I ended up designing a port adapter out (with 3d printing) and had my local CNC capable machine shop make it from 6061 aluminum (picture). The 3D print seen in the post had a bit of added play I suppose and the aluminum part required opening the holes a bit in the ESTS mounting piece for installation without binding. This adapter allowed for a 10AN ORB fitting attachment paired with a Vibrant 180* fitting to route the vacuum line around the ESTS to my driver side mounted catch can. This vacuum line also has the Radium Engineering PCV valve (PN 20-0561) installed (and a no name 6AN to 10AN converter). The PCV valve cover port was converted to 10AN using Radium Engineering adapter (PN 20-0758). At the catch can connection of the PCV port I added a 10AN tee adapter (PN 14-0148-10) for the ESTS gear case vent. This will hopefully segregate all vapors from the intake track as when I received the ESTS I had some residual oil residing in the suction manifold. The port in the elbow for the gear case vent now has a bolt with a single ear clamp installed to seal it up.

IC/HE plumbing:
My kit came with the "log" style reservoir, which I was happy about as I liked the idea of it mounting out of the engine bay for less heat soak. For a Z3M I mounted low in the crash bar with a set of 45* fittings on either end to clear the crash bar mounts. I had to remake the suction line for the circ pump due to 90* that originally came on it. The only place I could source the 12AN push connect nylon braided hose (Eaton PN FC647-12) was from Teague Custom Marine in Florida. I used 1.5" 3to1 heat shrink to make the ends look pretty. I also wrapped all my lines (except the fill neck) in 1" ID thermal sleeve (amazon special) to minimize heat soak. Not sure how effective it is, but I know its real fiberglass as its itchy as hell any time you brush it. Pictures are scattered but here's the good stuff

I mounted the reservoir to the Z3M crash bar with Tapered flat head bolts from McMaster-Carr (PN 92125A298) through it in the following order to get the stand off right to clear the crash bar mounts 12AN fittings. FWD end of car-bolt head- crash bar- washer nut towards crash bar- washer nut towards reservoir mount ear - washer - reservoir - washer- washer nut. YMMV

ESTS gear case oil level sight glass:
There was another thread started but these are the McMaster-Carr parts I used to make mine without any issues:
2x 5672K321 Yor-Lok Fitting for Stainless Steel Tubing, 90 Degree Elbow Adapter for 1/4" Tube x 1/4 BSPP Male
1x 52355K32 Teflon FEP Semi-Clear Tubing for Chemicals Flexible, 1/8" ID, 1/4" OD, 2 ft. Length
2x 5182K326 Tube Support for 1/4" Tube OD Yor-Lok Fitting for Stainless Steel Tubing

Upper Rad hose:
My kit didn't have any parts for the upper hose support. I ended up making a bracket arm out of 1/16" thick steel and using BMW PN 11531714433 "Hose stay(support)" and loped off the exterior "hook" on it. Works good so far.
I also found that the Rein/URO/et all aftermarket upper rad hoses do not include the same bends as the BMW e34 540i hose. I ended up ordering a genuine BMW PN 11531741405

Hopefully this helps someone in the future

[Jab31169]

Twin Screw for Sale:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...w-Supercharger