TS Parts/Repair List

[Tanks95]

DSC_1390

DSC_1409

...another pic

[robb1887]

* consider this as your email being answered.

Well that's a relief.

If the pulley bolt needs to be torqued for operation and I obviously need to torque it, what's the spec

[Tanks95]

Well that's a relief.

If the pulley bolt needs to be torqued for operation and I obviously need to torque it, what's the spec

https://www.jonbondperformance.com/w...ulley-prep.pdf

Remember its a Kenne Bell, Google is your friend...sometimes faster than us, i mean those old guys like Randy on this forum.

[Randy Forbes]

Well that's a relief.

If the pulley bolt needs to be torqued for operation and I obviously need to torque it, what's the spec

From the Active Autoworks installation manual:
Do not be concerned about tightening the bolt, when the engine starts the bolt
will tighten automatically.
Install the A/C belt

There was no mention of it in the ES instructions.

Based on the thread size/pitch, I have the value of 42-47Nm in my head, so I must've figured it out once upon a time...

[Tanks95]

From the Active Autoworks installation manual:
Do not be concerned about tightening the bolt, when the engine starts the bolt
will tighten automatically.
Install the A/C belt

There was no mention of it in the ES instructions.

Based on the thread size/pitch, I have the value of 42-47Nm in my head, so I must've figured it out once upon a time...

Good point Randy, i have never owned the actual tool that is designed to hold the pulley, so i am not sure i have ever made it to 72ft lbs. Between strap wrenches and home made holding tools...I just get it "tight" if you know what i mean.

[robb1887]

I'm likely over thinking it from the AA verbiage that Randy posted, but seems the "holding tool" for the pulley wouldn't secure the rotors from spinning to torque the bolt on the snout shaft. I haven't messed with it since the initial panic last night. I am also gun shy as my TRD SC tensioner bolt backed out (from lack of good torque due to corroded block threads/chase) and snapped causing a required tow home.

[Alpine 318is]

I was going through my garage and I ran across some ITG filter cleaner and ITG Oil. Anyone interested for $25 shipped? My Twinscrew is long gone unfortunately.

[robb1887]

I got as much ass on the pulley bolt with a belt around the original ES pulley and a torque wrench set to 40NM and couldnt get it to click with the unit on the work bench and by myself. Pulley and bolt are rotating together, but the rotors are still not spinning which is odd. I'll need to go comb through Randy's photos to see if I can get snout details. the Jon Bond and Kenne Bell websites don't have a good parts blown up diagram and parts list with a quick search just some colorful photos.

I expect I am taking the snout off the blower at a minimum to investigate.

[Randy Forbes]

I got as much ass on the pulley bolt with a belt around the original ES pulley and a torque wrench set to 40NM and couldnt get it to click with the unit on the work bench and by myself. Pulley and bolt are rotating together, but the rotors are still not spinning which is odd. I'll need to go comb through Randy's photos to see if I can get snout details. the Jon Bond and Kenne Bell websites don't have a good parts blown up diagram and parts list with a quick search just some colorful photos.

I expect I am taking the snout off the blower at a minimum to investigate.

Not sure if these were included when I sent you a bunch of links before, but I redid the setup on my M Coupe about 1-1/2 yrs ago: https://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/index.php?/category/454
It's not big on snout details__I was hoping I'd find a picture using my adjustable pin-spanner to hold the pulley__but you may find something useful there...

[milKt]

I just get it "tight" if you know what i mean.

[robb1887]

I'm new here, but at least I can contribute. I located my issue. The inboard snout coupling to the rotor pack looks to be that same friction fit (junk) that the pulley is "fit" with on the front. Both are bolted the snout shaft supported by what looks like a double ball bearing. I do not have plans to remove the bearings but the Inboard one has a PN that I forgot to photo but will before reassembly. Long story long my inboard bolt was loose so not transmitting the torque.

Snout pulley seal: Elring 28x40x7, this was easy for anyone that has swapped a pulley, but now its on the internet.
Inboard snout shaft bearing: 16006 C3
Flex spider coupling: KTR GS24

I'll likely replace the coupling and replace the snout seal and put on some new RTV and sealer up and send it for now. I had not planned to rebuild at this time and everything else sounds/looks fine.

NO snout!


The (removed) LOOSE culprit!


Inboard bearing:


Flex spider coupling:


Snout seal:


Snout seal pulled:


Disassembled to see if I saw anything else of concern (you can see I pulled off that friction spacer Tank posted that link about):

[Randy Forbes]

At least now you can get the bolts on both ends tight!

With that original Eurosport pulley, you can take the five (5) Torx bolts out and leave the pulley's hub in place, and the snout support bracket will slide over it. You won't need the pin-spanner like William & I do.

[Tanks95]

I'm new here, but at least I can contribute. I located my issue. The inboard snout coupling to the rotor pack looks to be that same friction fit (junk) that the pulley is "fit" with on the front. Both are bolted the snout shaft supported by what looks like a double ball bearing. I do not have plans to remove the bearings but the Inboard one has a PN that I forgot to photo but will before reassembly. Long story long my inboard bolt was loose so not transmitting the torque.

Snout pulley seal: Elring 28x40x7, this was easy for anyone that has swapped a pulley, but now its on the internet.
Inboard snout shaft bearing: Number pending! I'll snag a photo and PN later.
Flex spider coupling: KTR GS24

I'll likely replace the coupling and replace the snout seal and put on some new RTV and sealer up and send it for now. I had not planned to rebuild at this time and everything else sounds/looks fine.

NO snout!


The (removed) LOOSE culprit!


Flex spider coupling:


Snout seal:


Snout seal pulled:


Disassembled to see if I saw anything else of concern (you can see I pulled off that friction spacer Tank posted that link about):

Good stuff!

[robb1887]

At least now you can get the bolts on both ends tight!

With that original Eurosport pulley, you can take the five (5) Torx bolts out and leave the pulley's hub in place, and the snout support bracket will slide over it. You won't need the pin-spanner like William & I do.

At least for now...

My "kit" came with a smaller pulley and 42lb green tops, but the ECU tune is supposed to be an original ESTS and with my 102k S52 I plan to pull anyway I am sticking to the lower boost for now. I have long term plans for a M52/S52/S54/Schrick Franken motor to push the ESTS limits trying to catch up to Will's 2.1L numbers as much as I can with my little 1.7.

I do have a set of pulleys coming in from Lars too who was a previous Z3M ESTS charged guy that has moved onto a S85 swapping project and had the parts on his shelf sitting for ever and is shooting them to me. Not sure which I'll end up with on the Franken motor.

[KeysCoupe]

Robb, What diameter pulley came with your supercharger, and how much smaller do you intend on dropping down to down the road?
My ESS/Lysholm 1.6L compressor on my car now has a 4-1/4” pulley, but it is only a TS1 spec with no water/air intercooler. On the TS2 spec with the intercooler, pulley diameter drops down to 4” or 3-3/4”. I already have the green 42lb injectors, and have laminova cores yet to fit into my intake manifold. I’ll be looking for some smaller pulleys soon, but my setup takes a 4 bolt pattern I think that’s the same as the Saleen Mustangs and Whipple.
-Donny

[robb1887]

I'll have to double check. I assume the convention of measuring pulleys is the OD at the top of the ribs. I'll see if my calipers will fit but I think all the ESTS pulleys are in the 2-3" range. Nothing as big as 4.

Lars shipped his pulleys to me and are all "measured" so I can verify I can repeat those numbers.

Update: Pulleys arrived


Donny, the 3" and OE ESTS were originally in my kit. I expect the 3 was being ran with the 42lb injectors

[robb1887]

I learned yesterday that AN reusable (2 piece) and AN push on (barb) fittings and their respective hoses are NOT interchangable. Not knowing any better, the original ESTS intercooling plumbing is a braided black nylong 12AN hose. It looks like all the AN hose I've used before with reusable fittings so I bought some 12AN vibrant hose and had a hell of a time trying to install a new 45* fitting and longer hose length from the pump to go to the reservoir in lieu of the 90* and shorter hose piece.

Ended up taking it to a local industrial hose shop and they pointed out my errors.

TLDR: if you need to replace the 12AN intercooler hosing you need push on fittings and push on hose. NOT the wire reinforced hose you would use on a 2 piece hose fitting.

It took some searching to find some braided nylon push on, but there is some made by Aeroquip FC647-12BLK is the black jacketed. I think there are a few colors if you wanted to mix it up, the FC647-12 gets you the right section in their catalog the BLK would change.

[KeysCoupe]

I used to buy push-lock hose at FH Gaskins in the Norfolk Industrial Park off Ingleside. That was a lot of years ago. They’re probably still around.
-Donny

[robb1887]

So FYSA, I tried to save a few pennies and get 2nd hand upper rad hose for my install going on now. I didn't catch the photo differences in the shapes from URO/Rein to the OE, but the bends in the aftermarket reps DO NOT support the ESTS install. Looks like genuine $40+ upper rad hoses are required.

Anyone else have any luck?

[robb1887]

If anyone wants to ditch the OE cyclone separator to run a catch can vacuum setup, I'll be making one of these in a 3D printed aluminum to convert it to a 10AN fitting.

I didnt like that the fitting I had in the OE cyclone seperator grommet kept coming loose as I was working on getting things worked around in the bay so I decided I can do it better with the tools I have and some outsourcing.

OE mount points for the cyclone seperator to positively bolt to the ESTS mount, a 024 buna oring, and a 10AN ORB to 10AN flare setup later and this thing will be rock solid and vacuum leak hazard free.

I need to dial in the model a smidge as reverse engineering off a cyclone separator, a piece of paper, pencil, and a set of digital calipers can only get you so close. One or two more iterations at it will get outsourced to be 3D printed in SLM aluminum.



You can see the mounting hole misalignment on this one in yellow marker

[BMW FAMILY FUN]

Hi,

New to posting on this forum, although I’ve been lurking for some time. I hope this is the appropriate thread for this post.

My daughter is running a 1999 E36 M3 with a Eurosport twin screw supercharger in the NASA TT3 class, and is driving very well. Unfortunately, the car, although very well set up, doesn’t have the tire section width, or HP to be competitive in TT3 (4th out of 8 at last event). We aren’t willing to go wide body, and the car doesn’t have the cooling capacity to add HP without major upgrades (already runs a little hot at elevation during the heat of summer).

The solution that we are pursuing, is to drop the car’s current 343 maximum/328 average HP to around 300 maximum/290 average HP. Those numbers would squeeze the car into the TT4 class and help with cooling.

The current supercharger pulley is around 85mm, and my initial research suggests that a 95mm pulley may get us in the neighborhood of 300HP. Any input on these numbers would be appreciated! We have to be careful not to drop the HP any lower than the 290 average HP. All the weight that could easily be removed from the car, has been. If we’re a little over on HP, we could always add a little more weight back in.

The challenge I’m having, is finding a pulley. As most of you know, Eurosport is long gone, and unfortunately, I haven’t been able to find any pulleys that look even remotely like the one on the car (it’s a five spoke, five bolt pulley). I know I can have one machined, but worry about the downtime. She runs the car at least every two weeks. Does anyone have a 95+/- pulley lying around, or any leads on one? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[robb1887]

Our ESTS blowers can use any Kenne Bell pulley. You'll need the spreader bar for the new one also sold by KB. I'm not sure if they go up in size. I have a selection down to 2-3/8 but nothing above the ESTS 3.5.

What other work is done to yours to get those power numbers?

[BMW FAMILY FUN]

Our ESTS blowers can use any Kenne Bell pulley. You'll need the spreader bar for the new one also sold by KB. I'm not sure if they go up in size. I have a selection down to 2-3/8 but nothing above the ESTS 3.5.

What other work is done to yours to get those power numbers?

Thanks for the quick reply! I really don’t know as much about the car as I should. We bought it pretty well sorted out from a friend, but he knew surprisingly little about it. He hadn’t owned it very long, and when he did, he focused on the suspension. All I can tell you for sure, is that it has a header, and of course the Eurosport twin screw kit with the 3.5” pulley.

I looked at the Kenne Bell website, and it looks like they make several different varieties of pulleys. Do our ESTSs use the Ford, Dodge, or Chevy pulleys, or do they use something else? And do they require any machining, a spacer, or a different bolt?

Thanks for all the help!

[BMW FAMILY FUN]

Thanks for the quick reply! I really don’t know as much about the car as I should. We bought it pretty well sorted out from a friend, but he knew surprisingly little about it. He hadn’t owned it very long, and when he did, he focused on the suspension. All I can tell you for sure, is that it has a header, and of course the Eurosport twin screw kit with the 3.5” pulley.

I looked at the Kenne Bell website, and it looks like they make several different varieties of pulleys. Do our ESTSs use the Ford, Dodge, or Chevy pulleys, or do they use something else? And do they require any machining, a spacer, or a different bolt?

Thanks for all the help!

Does anyone know specifically what variety (Ford, Dodge, Chevy…) of Kenne Bell supercharger pulleys our ESTSs use? I got a great lead from Robb 1887, but need a little more specific information to be able to order. I feel somewhat confident about what diameter I need. I just need to know what application (Ford Mustang, Dodge Charger, Chevy Camaro…) to give Kenne Bell when I place the order.

Still too new on the forum to PM anyone, but hoping Lars, Randy Forbes, Tanks 95, or someone else might see this and be able to help.

[Tanks95]

@BMW FAMILY FUN - Good stuff on your daughter.

For clarity, which TS kit do you own? The 1.7l gen 1 kit that Eurosport made initially, or the gen 2, 2.1l?

I ask because they have distinctly different pullies.