97 ///M3 Turbo Saloon
VEHICLE: TRM Tuning Turbo System | Built Engine | SwainTech coatings | Custom 3.5" exhaust | Cryo Treated 210mm 3.15 Diff w/40% lock-up | 420G 6-speed transmission | UUC Twin Disc clutch | AMS-500 | AST Suspension | AP Racing | Racelogic TC | Dr. Vanos | Riot Racing BBTB | Vorshlag | UUC | AA | JT Design | Recaro | SPA Technique | VDO | Raid | Turner | Castillo Design FXR Retrofits | Zionsville Autosport | Stewart Components | Motion Motorsport underpanel | Z3 steering rack retrofit | Billet throttle body bushings
SOUND: Pioneer DEX-P99RS | Dynaudio | Morel | Image Dynamics | Arc Audio | JL Audio | Audio Control
OTHER: AEM Wideband Failsafe gauge | Ecliptech | Escort 9500Ci | LI | Hüper Optik | Llumar Air Blue | Skene Design
PHOTOS: Engine Bay: Click
Sorry to hear it. Might want to order a backup so it is on hand on only pay shipping once.
It seems there have been several failures with the paper gasket, but not one with the Schrick gasket. True?
Anybody still running paper would be well-advised to have the Schrick on hand for backup.
Also a reminder. Those bolts that hold the engine-to-TS bracket on have been known to come loose.
Seems like it might be a good idea to come up with a TS maintenance schedule:
Seem sensible or too paranoid?
- Belt -- INterval?
- Intake boot adhesive failure check -- Every 4 months???
- Engine-to-TS bracket bolts -- Every 4 months?
- Bypass valve operation -- When chenging oil?
- Coolant bleed check/replace coolant in TS intercooler -- ???
- Drain and replace TS oil -- every 5K???
- Fuel pressure check -- Every year???
- IC fuse check -- Seems like we know when this goes bad...
Anything else?
Johno
-- 2003 e46 M3
-- 2018 e90 M5
-- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i, 2012 S4, 2018 S4
hahahah I would add... Check tires every month...
-M3J0N
I would change the belt every 35-40k miles. I think the regular change interval for a serpentine belt is about 50k miles, but depending on your pulley size, you're putting a little more stress on the belt than stock. I usually just inspect mine at every oil change for cracks. The twinscrew oil I replace every other oil change, or about 14k miles. For the IC fuse, just open up your reservoir and check to see you have proper flow. I do this every week when i check my tire pressure and liquid levels.
Bump for coolant level sensor add and injector source add.
Johno
-- 2003 e46 M3
-- 2018 e90 M5
-- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i, 2012 S4, 2018 S4
Quick question, all the auto parts stores locally stopped carrying 15W-50 Long Life, could I just use 10W-40 Long Life instead? Or should I order some 15W-50 from the interwebz?
99 M3..............twinscrewed and wallet hungry
07 FJ.......... lots of skid plates, lots of trail damage
82 500 SEC......ROADHAUS
I found it at the local super walmart. Maybe try looking there? I think all ,of the walmart stores carry the same stuff.
Johno
-- 2003 e46 M3
-- 2018 e90 M5
-- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i, 2012 S4, 2018 S4
This is a very useful thread!
Does anyone know if AA and Eurosport use the same bypass valve? Is there any symptoms of a bad bypass?
99 Alpine/Gutted ///M3
98 Estoril/M-Technic cloth ///M3
- RIP http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1191513
I don't think they do. But I guess. Maybe Stimpee or Eurosport will chimr in.
To test the BPV hook a vaccum pump to it and apply suction. If it moves on suction and moves back on release, it's good. Or you can observe the position of the lever on the bottom at rest, and then start up the car and see if there is movement into a new position.
I suspect if it were not working there would be drivability hints.
Now that Eurosport is providing excellent customer support there is hope this thread will be enhanced with facts from the manufacturer.
Last edited by Johno; 02-23-2010 at 03:43 PM.
Johno
-- 2003 e46 M3
-- 2018 e90 M5
-- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i, 2012 S4, 2018 S4
nice thread. i've only had one issue with my TS. For months after i installed it, i had a hard to start issue. I mean like 5 - 6 seconds of cranking time unless the car was absolutely hot, or just shut down. this went on for months, i posted the issue here and i still could not figure it out. Also, along with that, sometime under hard acceleration i would experience a hard bucking, like the car was losing fuel. That’s when it donned on me.
I had to flash back to the old days of when my Chevy would run out of gas and buck just before it died. That led me to pull the fuel pump and check it. Once i got it out and inspected the little flex hose, i found a hole in the hose cause by ME being a little too excited about getting the hose clamp tightened.
That hose was allowing the system to drain overnight while the car sat (thus creating the hard to start)
After i replaced the hose and used a little less torque on the clamp, she started like a new car from then on out.
I say all of that to say, i believe on a modded car you should check everything all the time. you CANNOT treat it like a new car and just open the hood every 4000 miles. Most of us are under the hood all the time even when she’s running fine. I constantly look and check and look and recheck.
Lastly, i ALWAYS listen for the water pump to start before i crank the car, ALWAYS, ALWAYS!!!
William
Last edited by Tanks95; 02-23-2010 at 05:34 PM.
upper radiator hose failed on me today (nicked by ts pulley again). is there some better more robust solution?
'99 Hellrot M3 vert; Eurosport twin-screw SC w/ 76mm pulley + Schrick cam (i.e., TRM Stage 2 TS), UDP's,
oil cooler; GC coilovers; Z3 steering rack; Euro 6-spd trans; Diffsonline 3.46 LSD
04 IR 330i ZHP | ESS TS2+ SC | MagnaFlow "headers" | KMS 3.64 LSD | AST 4100 coilovers 550/650 | APEX ARC-8 18x9 | H&R front sway bar | Vorshlag camber plates, RTAB limiters | TMS subframe & swaybar reinforcements | UUC SSK & DSSR | UUC TM & TME | BimmerWorld engine mounts | Dinan strut & shock tower bars | EMP Stewart water pump
You HAVE that little bracket (attaches to the TS SNOUT)
that keeps the hose at a distance from the pulley/belt. I can see it in your signature.
Does it need to be tweaked a little bit? Is it still there?
ZHP,
even with a completely broken left front subframe at the motor mount
my engine wasn't torquing enough to have the upper hose tap against the pulley.
Last edited by milKt; 07-04-2011 at 07:38 PM.
well. you guys were right. it needed a little tweaking. angle was unfavorable
one of the problems is (like a jackass) a long time ago I stripped the thread of the bolt that hold that little bracket. i re-tapped it a while ago, and while its secure, its not nearly as firm a grip as it could be. i baby the retapped screw for fear of re-stipping it. I had received a hose from Josh that had a wire coil around the outside, but as luck would have it, the contact point with the TS pulley fell between the coils on the hose.
I removed and reapplied that coil and reinstalled on my replacement hose, making sure that it was 'in the line of sight' with the ts pulley. all is well (for now)
BTW,still stock motor mounts from 1999 (82K miles on her). i have vorshlag mounts but havent installed them
Last edited by agu845; 07-04-2011 at 07:51 PM.
'99 Hellrot M3 vert; Eurosport twin-screw SC w/ 76mm pulley + Schrick cam (i.e., TRM Stage 2 TS), UDP's,
oil cooler; GC coilovers; Z3 steering rack; Euro 6-spd trans; Diffsonline 3.46 LSD
Keep on Screwin'
Sorry I just saw this. I've been out of the forum for a while. I have installation instructions if anybody needs them. Ideally you would get them from Josh.
That hose design runs too close to the nose. What worked for me: Make a support that pulls the hose toward the center of the engine. this involves using zip ties to hold the hose away from the TS nose.
This looks a bit funny, but it did a good job for me hjolding the hose away form the wheel.
- When coolant hose is hot wrap 3 heavy duty zip ties around the radiator hose, slide tie into slot but don't tighten all the way to the hose.
- Loop 3 heavy-duty ties underneath the ties going to the hose. Zip them to make loops.
- Run a few more zip ties from the engine hose point to the loops coming from the hose ties.
- Tighten ties that wrap around the hose, making them snug but not squeezing the hose much.
- Tighten all other ties, making ties in a loop equal length, approximately, so the ties are sharing load and the loops look equal.
- In the final step, tighten the ties from the engine hoist support to the hose loops, to pull the hose away fromthe nose wheel.
Johno
-- 2003 e46 M3
-- 2018 e90 M5
-- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i, 2012 S4, 2018 S4
Since I'm in the process of replacing my filter, I thought I'd add that there's now a filter on the ITG website with the same dimensions as the one that comes from ES:
It's rated to 480HP and available for purchase here: http://www.itgfilters.net/ITG-Filter...15JC60-86C.htm
Apparently, the G60 designation on the filter refers to the foam material - not a model number.
HTH,
Pete
a rare Thomas sighting...
Johno
-- 2003 e46 M3
-- 2018 e90 M5
-- Warm memories of 99 M3 w/ Eurosport Twin Screw, 2007 335i, 1970 Cutlass, 1989 328is, 1990 328i, 2012 S4, 2018 S4
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