Anyone have a source for the front heat exchanger on the Z? I have a customized fluidyne for the cobra that took a dump. Looking for options. Dimensions would be helpful.
Thank you
Jmc
Motor: Hurtig/AA custom 2.0l TS OBD2 AA tuned 444whp/384wtq SAE 470whp/400wtq STD
Exhaust RMS headers, Maximum PSI custom exhaust, magnaflow mufflers
Driveline E46 M3 6 SPEED, 2.93 LSD, Rouge SSK/tranny mounts, UUC Ultrasmooth /LTW steel flywheel. CDV delete, UUC clutch pedal bushings with GSP pedal
COOLING: Stewart WP, 78* thermostat, S54 radiator, Euro/S54 oil cooler, ES TS oil cooler adapter, M3 power steering cooler
HANDLING: MR M CAR SF reinforcement, TCK D/A CO 450/500, TCK Camber Plates, Rogue RSM, Ireland SFB, Dinan STB. CCW classics, polished lip, brushed centers. P295/30/18 P245/35/18.
THE SHOW: Stygar Z8 Nozzels, Leather Z armrest, Z8 push button start, chrome door handles, OEM FOGS, BMW Traffic Pro.
Monitoring: PLX Wideband, VDO vision boost/VAC both with custom chrome trim ring.
COMING SOON: custom intake
I had my Car dyno Tuned at 22rpd and had them put in a new ecu and 42lbs injectors. Is the stock Eurosport Tune and 37 lbs injectors worth anything?
Hi, I have Neil's old red Mdorphn car with one of the first ES TS kits. I'm trying to source the 76mm pulley for the TS before I get someone local to custom CNC one. Does anyone know of a spare one on a shelf somewhere I can buy?
Hello all! I wanted to say hi and thank you for your work on these twin screw kits. I purchased an AA kit (stage 1) second hand 8 or 9 years ago and have greatly enjoyed it over the years.
I recently did a search on the Hurtig name that’s on the placard on the manifold and ran across the forum posts from you gentlemen and see that a lot of hard work was put into designing these kits.
I have modified the install slightly over the years to accommodate maintenance and fitment, but it is mostly still the original AA kit. The biggest issue I had until this year turned out to be the tune. It’s been installed on an obd1 converted s52, and the original tune that I purchased from AA always ran extremely rich.
I had a head gasket fail on the engine in the last few months and took the opportunity to clean up the install and refresh sensors and other components along the way. I also picked up a Miller WAR chip and got the tune dialed in a bit better. I may eventually go with a stand-alone ECU in an attempt to perfect the tune, but overall the car is running better than it ever has before.
I’m thankful that I found this thread! It’s nice to virtually meet some other people that enjoy these kits—I’ve never run across anyone else in person that had one installed. The knowledge base here is incredible. Thank you for your work in designing and maintaining these. I’m thankful to have and maintain one, and like I mentioned I have greatly enjoyed it over the years.
I’d love to hear more of the history of this install. I’ve pieced together a general idea through various posts, but I’m sure I’m missing bits and pieces of the story.
Last edited by Sdraper76; 11-26-2020 at 10:27 AM. Reason: Formatting
Welcome to the club! You'll have to get some pictures posted up of your setup, as we all tend to feed and develop off of each other's ideas. Due to server hopping, most of the pictures I've ever posted of the installs I've done are now dead links, but ALL the pictures do still exist in my gallery ( http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/ ) 71,738 images and counting! Though finding the specific cars may take some doing__maybe someday I'll index them...
Sometime in the next few months I have plans to "step up" the now fourteen-plus (14+) year old installation on my '99 M Coupe. For several years I've been sitting on another Eurosport TS setup, but I've been reluctant to do anything with it as I didn't have a proper DME to go with it; that changed when I purchased a loaded DME from another member here a few months ago (I just put that DME in my car to test it out).
I'd already stripped and recoated the manifold assembly using polymer metallic/ceramic compounds for thermal management (and a secondary benefit is it looks great too). which I want to put on my own car, along with a freshly KB serviced compressor and larger air-to-water cooler.
http://spcarsplus.com/piwigo/_data/i...MG_4556-me.JPG
A local M Coupe owner is having me put my existing system on his car (he's already bought the First Piece towards the swap, a Racelogic T/C system off ebay last week).
Stay tuned for updates...
Thank you! I’ve always loved the idea (and the look) of the M coupes. Very nice! It’s a unique setup on an already pretty rare car. The new coating looks good too! I’ll explore the photos and keep an eye on your progress!
I’ll explore some options for posting pictures... my install definitely doesn’t look as polished as yours does, but it has worked well.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Sdraper, if you enjoy the DIY and learning about these kinds of things you can tighten up the tune yourself with a windows laptop, OBD II to USB cable, and a few pieces of low cost software. The folks over at Romraider have already done a lot of the legwork to get into and modify our MS41.X, there is another world of info over there.
Randy, looks like another fun build! I threw a gigantic 1000hp A/W intercooler on and it didn't make a massive difference in intake temperature drop out of the compressor (maybe 20F IIRC). I believe a limitation for heat exchange is the small cross-drilled, cross-talking passage on the front of the supercharger manifold where the laminova cores are. This is a minimal cross section for fluid exchange. Also you can copy full DME flashes over to a new ECU with the romraider tool.
Last edited by InDTM3; 11-27-2020 at 03:16 AM.
Twin screws
For those running higher boost, anyone have issues with the oil spraying out the vent? I'm around 13-15psi with the colder weather and an experiencing this. Did not happen in the summer when boost was around 11psi.
I may have a solution for condensing the oil back in but was looking for others experience as well. Apparently these chargers are known to foam at this boost level, hence the switch to the vented snout by KB.
Twin screws
As a lurker here on this thread, I now need to ask for some advice. I have an E39 525it equipped with an ESS (ESS Tuning, Norway) TS1 twinscrew. My setup has no intercooler. A year ago, I inquired with ESS regarding their TS2/2+ upgrade consisting of three 500mm Laminova cores that fit inside their intake manifold, along with the endcaps, smaller pulley, waterpump and heat exchanger. The upgrade was $2500, which was beyond my budget at the time. I have now budgeted the purchase, but the kit is no longer offered. The Laminova cores are no longer available from ESS, though the manifold endcaps (and presumably the rest of the kit) are still available. ESS apparently had these proprietary length cores made for their kits about 10-12 years ago, and their supply is now exhausted.
I have inquires with BAT in Sarasota, but don't have a good feeling from talking with them a few days ago.
I would consider even the raw 39.5 mm core extrusions to machine the ends for correct length at this point.
Does anyone have access to 20" 39.5 mm Laminova cores, or better yet, access to finished 500mm cores?
-Donny
Last edited by KeysCoupe; 11-04-2021 at 01:48 PM.
While it might be a lot of work, I wonder if you could take 2 245mm length cores, and make a coupler that would seal appropriately between the cores. It would be expensive, as you would need 6 cores, plus the couplers would have to be custom made. And if you ever got a leak, could be nasty. But might be an option.
Alternatively, you could buy 3 407mm cores, and see if you could design/figure out a way to extend the end caps into the manifold to engage the cores. Not sure what the internals and design of the ESS manifold looks like to know if that is possible.
It is very unfortunate that they decided to use custom parts, and then stop supporting them. They forced me out of the market in 2006-2007 (with exclusivity on the autorotor compressor), and then it appears that they have left everyone hanging.
Have you been Screwed?
I've already considered coupling two of the 245mm cores, but if there was a leak, its straight into the intake. I have received the endcaps, packing washers and o-rings from ESS. They said they will try to get me exact specs on the cores so I could have core extrusions machined to size, if I'm lucky enough to lay my hands on the stock.
The ESS intake manifold is machined with three bores in the intake stream that the cores fit through with the two endcaps retaining/sealing them on either end. Pretty simple design.
ESS used a 1.6L Lysohlm compressor, but I understand they bought the rights to the Autorotor units also. Both Autorotor and Lysoholm compressor supplies dried up under their watch. I inquired about a replacement compressor, and they can supply a Whipple AX100 unit. The Lysohlm and Whipple units look very similar, in the same way the Autorotor and Kenne Bell units are similar looking.
-Donny
Does anyone know if the two Allen bolts on the bottom intake side of the AA TS should be tight? I removed my TS and intake manifold and noticed they are loose. One will tighten down and the other just spins. Thanks in advance for those still following this thread.
- - - Updated - - -
Thanks for engineering a great kit! My ‘95 was the OBD1 test mule for AA and was used in their installation guide. Been running 20 years!!
Last edited by Tanks95; 06-26-2022 at 07:42 PM.
If you're talking about these__Allen head (plugs) on the compressor__they should definitely be tight, or the oil falls out...
IMG_0969-la.jpg
Last edited by kegm3; 06-27-2022 at 03:42 AM.
I'm no Randy, he's the man......but, generally, ALL nuts nd bolts should be tight. Not being a smart A**, just saying there are no two components joined by a fastener that shouldn't be tight. Sounds like you have it solved already. If you haven't already you may want to check the fluid level. If that's not possible, drain and refill with the specified amount.
Yes, those (and and perhaps 4-other bolts) attach that plenum to the inlet side of the compressor, and they should all be tight__not wrench-bending tight, but something on the order of about 23Nm (18 Lb-ft).
If you've got one that just spins, then it needs further attention while you have it out; MAYBE just a long bolt will fix it (if the threads didn't go deep enough and pulled out the top couple only) or more extensive repair like a heli-coil insert. I've had to do a couple of the M6 bolt holes in the manifold before.
Thank you very much for your help!
I switched the two allen bolts and both will tighten on one side and neither in the other side. The threads are making contact with the internal female threads (I could see some fresh marks at the tip of the bolt, but it will not tighten. Would some blue thread lock work?
Blue locktite is used to keep fasteners from loosening, not “repairing” threads. If your bolts won’t snug/tighten to a torque spec, something is stripped, likely the casting. These will need at minimum a Helicoil. If they are boogered up really bad, a TimeCert should fix them, if there is enough meat surrounding the stripped holes.
-Donny
Last edited by KeysCoupe; 07-13-2022 at 12:05 PM.
So I got to start going over the ESTS tonight, took off the IC lines to make it easier to go through put on caps and then found a slightly unsettling discovery (at least to my unfamiliarity with an Opcon roots blower, but did have an Toyota Eaton TRD SC before) that my pulley and my rotors are not direct connected?
I already emailed Randy but I don't think this is normal? I can spin my pulley and the rotors don't turn, or I can spin my rotors and the pulley doesnt turn. Rotors spin together as expected.
That doesn't make sense to me as they should be direct 1 for 1?
Looking at the Kenne Bell graphics online seems to show direct drive, no weird "clutch" which leads me to believe a broken shaft somewhere.
I hadnt planned to send the unit off the KB for an overhaul yet but it looks like my plans might be changing.
Pic for attention:
- 1of1 rebuild (build thread) -
- Wanted Car items - FS: PnP aftermarket alarm details -
- Coupe Custom Subwoofer box - FS: Z3 Coupe LED 3rd brake lights -My Website for DIY content and parts: Double Bee Garage
Since getting your email*, I'd been searing for a picture__found this one in my '95 M3 album__that showed the snout sans pulley; as William says, if the bolt isn't fully torqued, the pulley will spin without affecting the rotors.
* consider this as your email being answered.
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