I know for a fact. The fuel pump is activated via the ECU. If you tell me the model i can tell you the exact pin on the motronic connector to ground to turn it on.
95 540i6 M Sport - 95 525it S52/OBD2 - 433k E36 328i5 - X5D that hit a pothole - IG: @justinmurray95
Hi everyone, had a busy couple weeks. Did more work, no results:
1. the relay shown in the manual for the fuel pump was not the right relay in my car, now when jumpered the fuel pump runs fine.
2. I remember that for a month or two the check engine light never came on, just thought it a bulb issue.
3. When I turn the key on but do not start, there is no fuel pump operation
4. Checked for spark, with the ignition system this is pretty tricky but there does not seem to be spark or fuel.
5. All this after changing the camshaft position sensor.
Any more clues?
Thanks
I'm confused. Too bad you are not closer so I can really take a look at it.
95 540i6 M Sport - 95 525it S52/OBD2 - 433k E36 328i5 - X5D that hit a pothole - IG: @justinmurray95
Key in the 2nd position does not trigger the fuel pump at all.
Anyone know if there are ground cables related to the issue that are easy to check?
Summary
New Fuel Pump
New Relays
New CPS
No Fuel unless jumpered
No Spark
The problem started as I was driving, actually turning the wheel - is there any wiring in the steering column that could cause this or is it a distractor?
Thanks
Did you replace the cam sensor or crank sensor, two different things, but both part of the fuel management system. I believe the advice was for changing the crank sensor.5. All this after changing the camshaft position sensor.
was this ever resolved?
friend of mine has a crank but no-start condition similar to this.
did you replace the cam position sensor or the crank position sensor...?
I'm curious also, because I just went through the same thing.
turned out I think the cylinders were flooded.
When I hooked up the battery to a jumper and cranked the sh*t out of it for probably 20 seconds with the accelerator about 75 to 90% fully pressed, it slowly started to fire and then finally kicked over.
But I had to rev the shit out of it just to keep it from cutting out just cause the plugs were all fouled.
Hope that helps anyone who might be experiencing something similar...
Last edited by shu328; 04-05-2009 at 10:27 PM.
I am having the same issue in my car. Replaced damn near everything from relay to filter to pump and still no start. Installed new CPS sensor and still no start. I put my old one back in because it works and looks damn near perfect.
Do you guys think my cylinders are flooded too?? I went to work and everything is fine. Stopped at the gas station to get come cigs and when i came out, it wouldn't start...
Could it be that it was say the pump but from all the times I tried to start the car, i flooded the cylinders?? and now that the new parts are in, it still doesn't start because the cylinders arre still flooded?
Thanks in advance for your guy's input.
-Леха
Sounds like your ECM might have taken a dump
Yeah it sucks but I can't drive anyways so its not as bad as it could have been.
Today I went out and tested the coils. All read OL on the voltmeter...so I'm concluding that the car is not getting spark.
Also, since the fuel pump turns out to not be an issue, when I disconnected the fuel feed line at the fuel rail and tried to crank the car up, no fuel came out...
So cliffnotes:
No spark
No fuel
New Fuel Pump Relay
New Fuel Filter
New Fuel Pump
New Crank Position Sensor
Verdict?!?
I am left to think that it is either the DME....
anyone care to chime in??
Last edited by acet; 09-30-2009 at 03:32 PM.
-Леха
any resolution...im chasing this as well. was working fine and now no worky
I too am having this issue on an M50, replaced the cam position sensor, replaced the fuel pump, relays are good and no spark???
Im thinking crank position sensor next?? HELP!!
before throwing more parts at it, i'd check to see if your plugs are wet. wouldn't hurt to check the basics.
2DYE4: your sig rules. "this is what happens when you fuck a stranger in the ass!!!"
BMW Parts Whore... BUY THEM PLEASE!!!
find a friend with an e34 and same model/engine to swap dme's with to see if that takes care of the problem. My guess would be DME. You can pick up used ones for decent prices.
Got a DME from Kris! Thanks pal!!! Will try my best to get the beast running today!! Will keep everyone updated!!
-Леха
Well??
To Whomever this Concerns: Lots of information here but there doesn't seem anywhere to mention if a bad battery, (low voltage) would impact the proper operation of the fuel pump. On the relay module, I could not jump pin 87 and 30 with any success and could not find any power readings from the relay module. I did get a reading from the black connector wire harness of 6.6V on one pin; the rest were .05 to .10. Battery was at 10.65V after 20 minutes of a full charge. Could a bad crank sensor drain the battery? I know the fuel pump works as I sent 10.6V by jumper cables to fuel pump terminals and it started right up. I think I'll take the battery out to be tested, as I think I need a new one. Looking for more things to check for troubleshooting. Thanks.
I would check the fusible link which powers the e-box on E34. https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...=fusible+links
10.65V is a dead battery https://www.pssurvival.com/PS/Batter...t_FAQ_2004.pdf
Shogun tricks and tips for the E32 series are HERE!
Hi,
my 525i Touring automatic won't start either.. I'm from Germany, sorry if I spell something wrong.
Since the documented solutions on the many causes for start issues are pretty rare I would like to share my problem and hoping you guys can give me a hint.
Car: 525i Touring automatic built 10/1992, no EWS, no starter immobillization relay, anti-theft system, BCIV and the "big" ZKE electric with CCM, GM, RM, LKM2
DME 3.3.1 redlabel 0261200413
Issue: no start, no power on the fuel pump (measured an fuse 23).
Happend literally over night, first bad start was at -15°C (5F), normally no problems
The starter is cranking.
What I checked so far:
- no power on fuel pump with key only in "ignition on" (not cranking by the starter) -> normally 12V for 2 sec. in "ignition on" key position at the pump
- fuelpump running when I put ground on the relay contact K6301-4 (the one which goes to DME Pin 1)
- checked ignition on cyl.1--> saw a spark during cranking
- anyways changed the crank position sensor
- cheched Pin 66 on DME connector for EWS issues, no signal, low in all conditions (locked car)
- Transmission Range Switch routes 12V to Pin 81 at DME in park & neutral position (the switching matrix at the transmission ECU is 12V on both L2 & L3 signals... don't think this is a problem)
- all Relays checked, all fuses also (front Boxes, and under the back seats)
- bridged Crash Module Pin 3+9 and 5+7 as supposed by "shogun" in other threads..
- Checked Connectors at GM
- Pulled off the connector at crash Sensor S27
- Pulled connectors of anti theft module
- 11,8 V at the DME measured
I've checked the power on fuse 23 at every intermediate step ...
The hazard lights come on when I connect the battery and when I put the crash control module in the socket besides the CCM.
I'm still looking for an DIS v44 copy, it's kind of hard to get it in german bmw communitys caused by our copy right laws. Bought one on ebay, still waiting for delivery.
Hope some one can give me a hint what i have to test.
I' think I need a spare GM and maybe DME, the last ones are damn expensive here. ~350 $
regards EE
Last edited by drdrarr; 03-03-2019 at 12:29 PM.
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