My e39 Koni FSD install and thoughts

[rpg]

You guys who are afraid of a spring compressor need to grow a pair :P I use em all the time and zip the bolts tight/loose w/ an impact gun.

When you've seen a compressed spring catapult across a garage at 100mph+, you tend not to put much faith in their safety...

[Quiksilver7]

PM me if you want the Koni FSD.

I can beat the Tire Rack price by a significant margin.

[BlackSapphire]

When you've seen a compressed spring catapult across a garage at 100mph+, you tend not to put much faith in their safety...

Nobody makes any claims with regards to people's inexperience or inability to operate tools properly.

[kaptom540]

[quote=BlackSapphire;10621302]

Well, I don't need the FSD/Eibach kit, just the FSD kit - I won't get rid of my H&Rs for anything. I'll get with them and find out about pricing on the 'non-Eibach' kit for my car (2100-4030). I'm looking for struts only, no springs. Thanks.

Then it should be cheapter for FSD's only. Give Eric a call about the group buy .. My understanding how it works is .. 40% off the retail price on Koni website .. (not the sales price) .. At the time I purchased them last year, it was cheaper to buy from SPP .. www.koni-na.com

Let us know what price you get from Eric.

[racerock]

I used the same type of of compressor... it's nothing to be afraid of. They all have some sort of safety system - mine uses positive lock cotter pins.

Also, I used my Ingersoll Rand impact wrench to compress them. Mucho quicker.

I'm going to have to call B.S. on you doing the front end of your car in an hour with no experience and hand tools.

Couple points:

- Always grease the spring compressor threaded rod - it really makes it easier, and prevents galling of the threads (especially when compressed)

- Like the above, there are a few compressors that are a step above the one in the pix that have built in retainers that are in a u shape that simply push in and out with a ball bearing keeper built in - always have a retainer on both ends of the compressor

-DON'T use an impact wrench (o.k., unless the spring barely needs to be compressed, and the tool will not see much pressure) WHY? an impact wrench will gall the threads. O.K. use one if you don't care...

- Yes, I'll second on calling B.S. on the hour call

[BlackSapphire]

here is a link to my FSD installation ... good pics ...
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...highlight=Koni

Kaptom, are you still happy with them? Would you chose the same struts again given the choice?

[kaptom540]

Kaptom, are you still happy with them? Would you chose the same struts again given the choice?

There are only two types of suspension I know, OEM Sport and now FSD. God I love the FSD’s . I wanted a suspension very close to OEM ride with a slight drop. FSD’s matches every aspect of the OEM ride and handles amazingly when you push the car. It exceeded my expectation. Plus the slight rake look is sexy! My next big mod is going to be Eibach sway bar kit.

here is mine and dan's car .. dan's has the bil with H&R springs

i have more of a rake with by eibach pro kit springs. also, it is my understanding, H&R Springs with FSD's will produce a slight rake look ..

[BlackSapphire]

Couple points:

- Always grease the spring compressor threaded rod - it really makes it easier, and prevents galling of the threads (especially when compressed)

- Like the above, there are a few compressors that are a step above the one in the pix that have built in retainers that are in a u shape that simply push in and out with a ball bearing keeper built in - always have a retainer on both ends of the compressor

-DON'T use an impact wrench (o.k., unless the spring barely needs to be compressed, and the tool will not see much pressure) WHY? an impact wrench will gall the threads. O.K. use one if you don't care...

- Yes, I'll second on calling B.S. on the hour call

Yes, to all of the above. I also grease the threads. On the impact wrench thing, you're right, I don't care. My time is worth more than I paid for this tool. It will be just fine with as much as I use it - I don't own a shop. By the way, I've used it 4 times so far, the threads look the same as they did when they were new.

Your mileage will vary depending on whether or not you buy the "Harbor Freight Special" shown above - I did not.

[cdb3113]

I am hoping to finish this job with the shown compressor. That is about it. $30 for the tool... or $15 per strut at the local shop and they do it for me. Well... once I have the struts off it is hard to get to the shop anyways, so... $30 tool.

I also greased the threads on the tool.

I know it is a cheap piece of crap already.... jeez... the springs don't actually need that much compression (in front at least) anyways.

[cdb3113]

Ok so I have the front wheels off now... the L is lined up on the drivers side strut, and the R is lined up on the passenger side. Seems to be right as far as markings.

Looking at things in there, it looks to me like the right front strut is not aligned properly. If I put it how I thought it should be, the right front would be aligned with the "L".
This is because the lower perch is at a different angle outwards (towards the tire) than the drivers side. The top strut nut is not threaded in as far on the passenger side, either. There are more threads visible on the drivers side.

However, the compressors were not quite equal on the drivers side strut, causing the spring to bend slightly. This may have ended up binding something in there... without another person I can't really tell which side the noise is coming from.

Pics to follow shortly. I just got back in from the garage.

I must say, though, that at this point I will probably end up redoing the whole damn thing. At least I know what I am doing now, right? People talk about how us mechanical engineers are nearly ocd... I keep proving them right I guess. Ugh.

EDIT: pics added.
strut alignment pictures... notice how much the lower perch is stick outwards.

passenger side: looks like it is not sticking out much.




drivers side: sticking out more...





weird yes? the L and R seem lined up per instructions... could they be wrong on the strut??? That would be stupid. Maybe R is actually the drivers side on the struts, and L is the passenger side? Blah.


advice if you have it please... I am going to rebuild the drivers side tomorrow afternoon though, for sure. Too much noise for my comfort.

[jase007]

Check how the spring is seated on the lower spring perch. It looks like in one of your photos that the oval shape of the spring is not aligned with the oval shape of the lower spring perch. IIRC the front part of the bottom coil will wrap around the lower spring pad snugly and the oval shape of the spring will be within the edges of the lower perch when viewed from above [removed from car].

FYI: There is a shoulder on the damper piston below the thread part where the washers and upper strut bearing has to mate [touch] before you begin to torque the large nut on top. If the springs aren't compressed enough on re-installation [or really cockeyed to one side] ... the upper strut bearing will not be in contact with the shoulder on the piston rod [leaving a gap] and then releasing the spring compressors will negate any torque values you get when torqing the nut.

The tricky part is releasing the spring compressors and having the spring sit into the lower and uper pads exactly where you want them. I have mine in a vise [padded with rags] and worked slowly with hand tools when releasing the sprign to make sure the end of the bottom coil seated correctly on the rubber pad and that the coil was snug to the reaised senter nub in the lower perch.

Nothing wring with OCD. I work with lots of DIYers that are engineers, lawyers, scientists, etc... and we are all car-ocd.

Good luck.

[cdb3113]

FYI: There is a shoulder on the damper piston below the thread part where the washers and upper strut bearing has to mate [touch] before you begin to torque the large nut on top. If the springs aren't compressed enough on re-installation [or really cockeyed to one side] ... the upper strut bearing will not be in contact with the shoulder on the piston rod [leaving a gap] and then releasing the spring compressors will negate any torque values you get when torqing the nut.

I think that spring aligned is ok... not absolutely sure though. I saw that in the photo too, and it seems like a weird angle. On the car, it looks aligned.

Good info there. I think this is probably the issue. It would make sense, because the nut on that side did not torque down as far. Thank you!

[BlackSapphire]

I am hoping to finish this job with the shown compressor. That is about it. $30 for the tool... or $15 per strut at the local shop and they do it for me. Well... once I have the struts off it is hard to get to the shop anyways, so... $30 tool.

I also greased the threads on the tool.

I know it is a cheap piece of crap already.... jeez... the springs don't actually need that much compression (in front at least) anyways.

I wasn't dogging your tool (that didn't come out right). All that has to happen is the job gets done safely. Then, it's a good tool.

[cdb3113]

I wasn't dogging your tool (that didn't come out right). All that has to happen is the job gets done safely. Then, it's a good tool.

It's cool. Let's go see if it still works now... again. On the front.

[BlackSapphire]

Check how the spring is seated on the lower spring perch. It looks like in one of your photos that the oval shape of the spring is not aligned with the oval shape of the lower spring perch. IIRC the front part of the bottom coil will wrap around the lower spring pad snugly and the oval shape of the spring will be within the edges of the lower perch when viewed from above [removed from car].

FYI: There is a shoulder on the damper piston below the thread part where the washers and upper strut bearing has to mate [touch] before you begin to torque the large nut on top. If the springs aren't compressed enough on re-installation [or really cockeyed to one side] ... the upper strut bearing will not be in contact with the shoulder on the piston rod [leaving a gap] and then releasing the spring compressors will negate any torque values you get when torqing the nut.

The tricky part is releasing the spring compressors and having the spring sit into the lower and uper pads exactly where you want them. I have mine in a vise [padded with rags] and worked slowly with hand tools when releasing the sprign to make sure the end of the bottom coil seated correctly on the rubber pad and that the coil was snug to the reaised senter nub in the lower perch.

Nothing wring with OCD. I work with lots of DIYers that are engineers, lawyers, scientists, etc... and we are all car-ocd.

Good luck.

Jason, what about aftermarket spring alignment on the lower spring perch? I don't think my H&Rs are oval (IIRC). Any thoughts there?

[cdb3113]

since the title says "thoughts" will be included in this thread, I will add one. I think it is a good idea to transfer all the parts (this means bushings too) from the old strut mounts to the new ones.

Issue found, problem will be solved shortly...

[bimmerfiver]

since the title says "thoughts" will be included in this thread, I will add one. I think it is a good idea to transfer all the parts (this means bushings too) from the old strut mounts to the new ones.

Issue found, problem will be solved shortly...

Let us know what the problem is/was and good luck.

[cdb3113]

I rebuilt the front struts again tonight. They are correct now. This has been a good lesson for the rears... pay attention! The passenger strut had the washer on top of the bump stop upside down, and the drivers strut was missing the two-piece bushing between the top black steel plate and the strut mount. I found that bushing missing because it was still stuck on the old strut mount.

Test drive proves the front is perfect now! :in love w/ fsd:

[BlackSapphire]

Awesome... don't you feel better now?

[BlackSapphire]

There are only two types of suspension I know, OEM Sport and now FSD. God I love the FSD’s . I wanted a suspension very close to OEM ride with a slight drop. FSD’s matches every aspect of the OEM ride and handles amazingly when you push the car. It exceeded my expectation. Plus the slight rake look is sexy! My next big mod is going to be Eibach sway bar kit.

here is mine and dan's car .. dan's has the bil with H&R springs

i have more of a rake with by eibach pro kit springs. also, it is my understanding, H&R Springs with FSD's will produce a slight rake look ..

You know.... I think my suspension is lower than both of yours in the rear - it could be an optical delusion The top of my tire is tucked a bit. On second look, Dan's may be that way but on your car with the Eibach's, it certainly looks a little higher than his. I'll get some pics today to compare. After all... we love pics!

[BlackSapphire]

OK, here's the pics I promised. This will help some of you that are wondering how low the rear of your H&R Sport lowered E39 *might* be. I say *might* because some have noted differences in their results.

Mine is at least as low as Dan's and definitely lower than the Eibach equipped E39.





And, just for fun.... it's always neat to compare it to the pre-lowered version of my car.

Waiting for a flood.....

[kaptom540]

your rear sits flat like Dan's .. but I know someone who installed H&R springs with FSD's and he got a slight rake look .. so i am wondering if it is a FSD's is creating this rake look?

dan's car .. rear sits pretty flat ..



down line the line picture


I do have a slight gap .. btw, i am running 17's wheels .. not sure if that makes any difference .. pending on the angle .. some pics has more gap and some has none ..

[cdb3113]

question kaptom540... I see you guys put the small white plastic washer on your rear struts. Would you recommend it? I was unsure what it does, if anything. The only thing I can think of is that it may protect the strut from the bumpstop.

I got the black plastic cap off the old strut, but it does not want to go on the FSD. I see you left the black piece off as well. It seems unnecessary..

Does that white piece rattle? It looks like it would, but I don't know if it would be noticeable outside/inside the car...

[supark]

your rear sits flat like Dan's .. but I know someone who installed H&R springs with FSD's and he got a slight rake look .. so i am wondering if it is a FSD's is creating this rake look?

dan's car .. rear sits pretty flat ..

I'm glad to hear the FSDs worked out so well - will definitely consider them when I have to swap out the shocks which shouldn't be long being that I have almost 100k miles on my car...

You know you may be right about the rake with FSDs. I put eibach pro-kit springs on my 99 540i and the drop was pretty even front to rear. Though on my 528i it had a pretty noticeable rake (both cars on stock sports package shocks):

Left is the 540i, right is the 528i:


I've noticed that 528i's generally drop lower with the same springs though - so the answer may all be in the spring perches on different model shocks.

[supark]

question kaptom540... I see you guys put the small white plastic washer on your rear struts. Would you recommend it? I was unsure what it does, if anything. The only thing I can think of is that it may protect the strut from the bumpstop.

I got the black plastic cap off the old strut, but it does not want to go on the FSD. I see you left the black piece off as well. It seems unnecessary..

Does that white piece rattle? It looks like it would, but I don't know if it would be noticeable outside/inside the car...

I don't think leaving that little white plastic washer is necessary - the OEM shocks don't have it on them from what I recall.