Has anyone used this RTAB removing tool from www.victoryproductdesign.com/? I looks like a threaded rod with a nut and stop at one end and large hollow spacer at the other?
I'm going to replace my RTABs soon, and I've read that the removal is a PITA. Maybe it's worth the $90 if you plan on replacing the RTAB every 40k miles.
What do you think?
I know you can go to Home Depot to make one yourself.
I've heard of the home-made RTAB installation tool, but not a removal tool. Where have you seen a removal tool?Originally posted by Dinan325ic
I know you can go to Home Depot to make one yourself.
oh yeah, you're right. Peeps tend to use a saws-all for the removal. Just hack it up.
Yes, and I've heard its a PITA.Originally posted by Dinan325ic
oh yeah, you're right. Peeps tend to use a saws-all for the removal. Just hack it up.
You can rent the BMW tools from chester_p_wong@yahoo.com for about 50 bucks + shipping and save yourself a bunch of hassle. Brett Anderson rents 'em too.....
I've considered that. However, $50 rental plus $30 shipping is a little steep when you can DITY for $3 worth of rod/washers/nuts and a sawzall.Originally posted by RogRacer
You can rent the BMW tools from chester_p_wong@yahoo.com for about 50 bucks + shipping and save yourself a bunch of hassle. Brett Anderson rents 'em too.....
I've read posts indicating that the sawzall method is effective but time consuming. So, I'm just wondering if the $90 tool is worth it. It is a chunk of change, but reuseable for a procedure that any long-term M3 owner will have to do again and again.
Just remember the "rental" kit includes the install tool, the removal tool, the alignment bar, and some oversize wrenches you may not have in your tool box. For me, it was worth renting.
This tool actually looks pretty clever to me. It's basically the same idea as the installation tool if I understand the drawing correctly: instead of plates on either end there is a cylinder to push the RTAB into with the oblong piece at the other end, which is driven via the central threaded shaft. May not be able to make one without a bit of lathe work, but it wouldn't be a big deal using some pipe that was close to begin with.
Think I'll try it as the Sawzall method looks like it could be bad for the health of my trailing arms. These are not exactly precision instruments in my hands!
I've already ordered one of these, and I'll let you know how it works as soon as I do my RTABs...maybe in the next week or two, depending on the weather and how quickly it gets here...
-c///m
1997 Estorilblau M3 2-door
Performance: JC euro intake, AA Gen III exhaust, Evosport UDP, fan delete, Schrick cams, OBD-I intake manifold, 540 HFM, ASC delete, 24# fuel injectors, DiffsOnline 3.46 40% LSD, Boston BMWCCA sticker
Suspension: TC Kline SA (Suck-A**) coilovers, ///M front strut brace, X-brace, TCK RSM, Powerflex RTAB, Turner sways, Motorforce camber plates, RRT reinforced rear LCAs
Lighting: ZKW w/ HID, Euro clears, Lamin-X foglight film
Other: Z3 steering rack, SS brake and clutch lines, Stygar SSK, UUC TME, VDO Gauges, MB Quart Discus components, MB Quart Discus 6x9 triaxials, Audio Art NA 4070 280W amp
C///M,
Perhaps you could post some pics, too. Maybe even in use.
Thanx.
Sure thing. I'll take some pics during my RTAB removal and post them up...
-c///m
1997 Estorilblau M3 2-door
Performance: JC euro intake, AA Gen III exhaust, Evosport UDP, fan delete, Schrick cams, OBD-I intake manifold, 540 HFM, ASC delete, 24# fuel injectors, DiffsOnline 3.46 40% LSD, Boston BMWCCA sticker
Suspension: TC Kline SA (Suck-A**) coilovers, ///M front strut brace, X-brace, TCK RSM, Powerflex RTAB, Turner sways, Motorforce camber plates, RRT reinforced rear LCAs
Lighting: ZKW w/ HID, Euro clears, Lamin-X foglight film
Other: Z3 steering rack, SS brake and clutch lines, Stygar SSK, UUC TME, VDO Gauges, MB Quart Discus components, MB Quart Discus 6x9 triaxials, Audio Art NA 4070 280W amp
get together with a few people to split the cost. You can do 3-4 cars in an afternoon.
Alan
2006 325i
2015 M3
related topic - does anyone know where to get the special grease (not the one it comes with) but the other kind that lasts alot longer and prevents squeaking. thanks
I've heard people suggest anti-seize compound. Specifically, the name "Never Seize" was used...
-c///m
1997 Estorilblau M3 2-door
Performance: JC euro intake, AA Gen III exhaust, Evosport UDP, fan delete, Schrick cams, OBD-I intake manifold, 540 HFM, ASC delete, 24# fuel injectors, DiffsOnline 3.46 40% LSD, Boston BMWCCA sticker
Suspension: TC Kline SA (Suck-A**) coilovers, ///M front strut brace, X-brace, TCK RSM, Powerflex RTAB, Turner sways, Motorforce camber plates, RRT reinforced rear LCAs
Lighting: ZKW w/ HID, Euro clears, Lamin-X foglight film
Other: Z3 steering rack, SS brake and clutch lines, Stygar SSK, UUC TME, VDO Gauges, MB Quart Discus components, MB Quart Discus 6x9 triaxials, Audio Art NA 4070 280W amp
Tool vs. sawzall method - sawzall is a PITA. I'm reasonably mechanically inclined and did it without the tool - I won't do it this way again. Using the sawzall is messy and time consuming, and building up your own threaded press is also a PITA. Either rent or buy the tool.
95 M3
So, C///M, you want to get together and share your new RTAB tool as suggested? I only live 3,000 miles away; come on over!
Actually, I thought that you may want to share the cost of the tool by renting it to me (assuming that it works!). I could put a deposit for the entire cost of the tool. . .
Just a thought.
Gee, only 3k miles. Why don't you come over when Bryan ///M3 and I do our cars?
Let's see how well this thing works, and see if it's worth sending across country to rent to you
-c///m
1997 Estorilblau M3 2-door
Performance: JC euro intake, AA Gen III exhaust, Evosport UDP, fan delete, Schrick cams, OBD-I intake manifold, 540 HFM, ASC delete, 24# fuel injectors, DiffsOnline 3.46 40% LSD, Boston BMWCCA sticker
Suspension: TC Kline SA (Suck-A**) coilovers, ///M front strut brace, X-brace, TCK RSM, Powerflex RTAB, Turner sways, Motorforce camber plates, RRT reinforced rear LCAs
Lighting: ZKW w/ HID, Euro clears, Lamin-X foglight film
Other: Z3 steering rack, SS brake and clutch lines, Stygar SSK, UUC TME, VDO Gauges, MB Quart Discus components, MB Quart Discus 6x9 triaxials, Audio Art NA 4070 280W amp
my install
http://www.rose-hulman.edu/~smithm3/mods/RTAB/index.htm
I recommend a gear puller and a large piece of metal. Then you have a very useful puller and not a one use RTAB installer.
I am facing the challenge of a RTAB install as well. I have a press, but think the pain of removing the entire trailing arm might not be worth it. I have used the sawzall method before, and it is sort of lame. I am going to try a variety of methods before I actually cut stuff up. If I come up with something interesting I will let everyone know.
Guys, either way, the tool or homemade stuff is worth it. I had an independent BMW shop replace my RTAB's 1 1/2 yrs ago and it cost me @$400 for labor. The powerflex bushings were extra. I tried to rent Brett Anderson's RTAB tool, but he said that someone broke it and it would take a few more weeks before he got one in. I had 75k on the car and was noticing weird rear handling during auto-x. I got paranoid that the trailing arm would rip out on me so I paid to have it done. The $90 tool is cheap compared to the original one that costs $300+
#71 SM
04 Silver Grey M3
95 Arctic Silver M3
03 X5 3.0L Titanium Silver
07 GX470- Silver
Molon Labe...
Excellence is a habit, not an act.
I am wondering if the 90 dollar tool also assist in installing the bushing.
<font size="1">97 M3 coupe dakar yellow/ alcantara
UUC TME, UUC Comp Evo SSK w/ delrin carrier bushing & cartridge bearing, BBS RX 18", H&R coilover, euro clears, AC roof spoiler, RD sway bars, RD strut bar, X-brace, Ground control street stability kit (rear trailing arm bushing enforcer), e46 M3 RSM, Z3 reinforcement plate, Hamann kidney grille cover, OEM trunk spoiler, Schrick intake manifold, fan delete mod, underdrive crank pulley, debaffled & euro snorkel and K&N drop-in, UUC system-U DTM exhaust, glove box motorsport carbon fiber trim, AC pedals and knob, 35% tint, Zimmermann cross-drilled, EBC Greens.
92 325i estoril blue M3 look
Motorsport International badge M3 door mouldings, 97+ kidney grill, AA chip, fan delete mod, debaflled & euro snorkel and K&N drop-in, RD exhaust, RD trunkspoiler, AC roof spoiler, Euro M-Technic steering wheel, Rob magnum knob, strut bar, Eibach pro-kit, fr Bilstein sport, rr Koni SA, sport pack sway bar, X-brace, 97 M3 spec front control arm bushing & RTAB, updated front strut bearings and mount to newer style, short shift and UUC delrin carrier bushings, UUC pedals, UUC clutch arm bushing, Stillen slotted rotors, KVR brake pads, M Doublespoke II, euro clears, AC aluminum pin strip decal, 35% tint.</font>
M3325, I was thinking the same thing. It looks like if you put two large metal plates (thick washers) in between the two halves of the tool you could use it as a press to push the new bushings back in. This assumes that the threaded bolt is long enough to accommodate everything. Should work. Makes it even more attractive to build my own!
The RTAB tool sold at Victory Product Design will remove the bushing and install the new one.
Are you certain? How do you know? Thanks.Originally posted by VPD
The RTAB tool sold at Victory Product Design will remove the bushing and install the new one.
Bookmarks