BAVToys
Results 1 to 18 of 18

Thread: DIY:**Predator Chromium Install Guide PRE 04 E46**PLUS remote feature by Lexicon740il

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PQ & USA
    Posts
    9,398
    My Cars
    --97 SC'd ///M3--04 ///M3 VERT--07 ESCALADE--

    DIY:**Predator Chromium Install Guide PRE 04 E46**PLUS remote feature by Lexicon740il

    i would like to thank Kevin for this excellent guide.

    Tools Required:

    • Phillips Screw Driver (corner lamps)
    • Flat Head Screw Driver (optional for headlight cover)
    • Pliers (handy to have)
    • Electrical Tape
    • Sturdy Copper Wire (to use as a wire fish)
    • 10mm Socket or Wrench (ground nut, coolant reservoirs)
    • Adjustable Wrench (positive battery terminal)
    • T25 Torx Bit (ECU box cover)
    • wire Loom (optional)

    Installation

    Install Time: (anywhere from 30-90min., if you had to do it a second time it will be much quicker)
    Before you begin:
    a) Inspect and test your kit prior to installing. If any thing is not working, best to get it replaced before taking your headlights apart.
    b) Pop open your hood.
    c) Get lots of water if you dehydrate fast.

    Step 1. Headlight lense removal
    (Driver's side shown, Passenger side similar)


    1a) Remove the turn signal corner lamp. Use a Philips Screw Driver to loosen the retaining screw as pictured below. The screw does not come out so don't keep turning or you'll be turning forever. Once loosen, slide the corner lamp forward and undo the bulb connector. Set the lamp aside



    1b) Remove the rubber trim surrounding the top/side of your headlight. You can easily undo the top 3 tabs with your fingers by lifting the tabs from behind. The two tabs on side might be easier with a flat head screw driver.



    1c) Remove the lower painted headlight trim. If you have the cold weather package with the headlight washer like I do, it will be easier if you did not remove the entire trim. Start by unlatching the trim from the end closest to the grill then the latch that is visible from where the corner lamp was removed. To unlatch you simply reach from behind and unhook it similar to how your removed the rubber trim. If you have the headlight washer, you do not need to disconnect it, just tilt the trim piece out as far as you can. That should give you enough clearance. If you do not have the headlight washer it's up to you if you want to remove it entirely or just tilt it out.



    1d) Remove the clear headlight cover lense. Tools aren't really necessary here. There are three plastic tabs on top, one on the side, and three on the bottom that must be unlatched. Carefully pull up on each tab till it releases from lense. As you work your way around each tab you should be able to remove the lense by sliding it out.



    1e) Remove the OEM inner trim bezel. The bezel simply pulls straight out. No tools needed.


    -zkw- -hella- -bosch- -depo- -prolumen- -kwd- -bbs- -predator chromium- -predator ice- -simota- -ecis-

    //-install guides-//-total lighting group buy-//-zkw group buy-// -exhaust group buy-//-ellipsoids+hid group buy-//-led tails group buy-//

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PQ & USA
    Posts
    9,398
    My Cars
    --97 SC'd ///M3--04 ///M3 VERT--07 ESCALADE--
    Step 2) Mounting The Angel Eyes Rings

    2a) Mount the Angel Eye Ring to the DRL (flasher) reflector. At the top of the reflector is a lip. Simply slide the alligator clip at the top of the Angel Eyes onto the top of the reflector lip. See image below for proper spacing of the clips. You do not push both clips all the way in, only the inner clip (closest to grill) is pushed all the way while the other clip (closest to the Bi-Xenon projector) has some spacing. The easiest way to do this is to slide both clips in all the way then pull the clip closest to the projector out till the inner lip of the clip stops it from coming out any further. Now look over the Angel Eye ring to make sure it's even all the way around and lined up.



    2b) Mount the Angel Eye Ring to the Bi-Xenon projector. This one can be tricky. You have to make sure you do not push the clip all the way in otherwise it will touch the top of your projector housing. Simply push it till it gets within 1-2mm from the top of the projector housing. Don't worry as it will not fall off.



    2c) (Optional) Remove the intake duct from the air box on the drivers side so you have additional room to work.



    2d) Remove the H7 bulb from (flasher) socket and peel the rubber boot back. Surrounding the H7 bulb socket is a rubber boot. Peel back on the boot from the top to allow you to pass the Angel Eye wires through.



    2e) Feed the Angel Eye wires from the front (above the reflector) to the back through the rubber boot. First tape each pair of wires together so that when you pull them through you will know which pair is which. Second, to aid in the process, a sturdy wire will help you pull the wires through. Feed the sturdy wire through from the front to the back and through the boot opening. Wrap the wire around the Angel Eye wires and tape it down with electrical tape. Now pull it through from the boot side. See pictures below.



    2f) (Optional, not recommended, skip to step 2h) Make a small incision on the rubber boot with a small pocket knife. This will allow you to pass the wires through the boot and also allow you to reinstall the boot around the socket opening. Otherwise, you can always close the boot around the wires.

    2g) (Optional, only if step 2f is performed) Feed the Angel Eye wires through the boot. Using needle nose pliers, grab one of the Angel Eye wires by the terminal and stick it through the boot opening that you made in the previous step. Then on the other side of the boot, use your needle nose pliers again to pull the wire through. Do this for the other 3 wires till all four wires are through. You can now reposition the boot and reinstall it. You can also reinstall the H7 bulb now.



    2h) Install Angel Eye wire connectors. The polarity does not matter as long as you have the correct pair of wires. The wire terminal goes to the two outer holes on the supplied connector. Do not install the terminal in the middle hole. Inserted the terminal through the connector and use needle nose pliers to tug on the terminal end to insure it locks in place. Give the other end a light tug to make sure the wire does not come out of the connector.


    -zkw- -hella- -bosch- -depo- -prolumen- -kwd- -bbs- -predator chromium- -predator ice- -simota- -ecis-

    //-install guides-//-total lighting group buy-//-zkw group buy-// -exhaust group buy-//-ellipsoids+hid group buy-//-led tails group buy-//

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PQ & USA
    Posts
    9,398
    My Cars
    --97 SC'd ///M3--04 ///M3 VERT--07 ESCALADE--
    Step 3) Wire Harness Installation

    3a) Lay the wire harness on top of the engine bay. The relay should be near the passenger side positive (+) battery terminal. See image below for the correct positive terminal. The shorter end of the harness coming from the relay should follow the passenger fender to the passenger headlight. The longer end should go across the engine to the driver's side fender towards the driver's side headlight.



    3b) Ground the relay. Use a 10mm socket to remove the 10mm nut located in the passenger power terminal area. Mount your relay and ground here. The ground wire is the short black wire coming out of the relay with a ring terminal at the end of it. See picture below. Optionally, you can utilize the factory 19mm ground terminal as pictured in the previous step (step 3a).



    3c) Route the short harness to the passenger side headlight. If you lift the weather stripping from the passenger side power terminal area, you can slide the harness under the factory harness bundle then route it down the passenger fender to the passenger headlight.



    3d) Connect the black rectangular igniter ballast box to the harness (pictured below) and also to the passenger side Angel Eyes (not pictured). Do not mount (tape) the igniter box just yet.



    3e) Route the long harness across the top of the engine and secure it over the OEM wire holder. See pictures below.



    3f) Route the long harness through to the brake fluid / ECU box area then down the drivers side fender. I chose to go through the OEM weather stripping as pictured below. Leave the trigger wire in the ECU box area for now and run the harness down the drivers fender (being as neat as possible).



    3g) Connect the black rectangular igniter box to the harness and drivers side Angel Eyes. Do not mount the igniter box just yet.

    3h) Connect the red wire from the relay to the positive (+) terminal found in the power terminal area.
    (NOTE: If you have the OEM Navigation, make sure it is completely turned off and not on before beginning. There is a chance that your navigation can become damaged if you pull the power when it is powered on.)
    First you must locate the OEM hood switch and unplug the connector. Next lift the weather stripping out of the way then lift the cover up by grabbing under where the positive terminal is. See first picture below. Use a 13mm socket to remove the 13mm nut from the positive terminal. Locate the red wire (with an inline fuse) coming out of the relay and mount it on the positive terminal. I chose to install the red wire underneath the OEM battery cable. Do the reverse to put it all back together then zip tie any lose cables. TIP: If you zip tie the inline fuse holder to the relay as pictured below (3rd pic on the right) you'll have easy access to the fuse).



    3i) You are now ready to test your Angel Eyes. Coming off the relay should be a second trigger wire that is brown. Have someone touch the brown wire to the positive terminal or use a clamp then examine if your Angel Eyes work. If all is good, remove the brown wire from the positive terminal.

    3j) Assuming everything is in working order after testing it above, you can choose to mount the rectangular igniters now or wait till you are done with your install. I secured mine directly on top of the headlight tucked under the radiator support where you can not see it. See image below.


    -zkw- -hella- -bosch- -depo- -prolumen- -kwd- -bbs- -predator chromium- -predator ice- -simota- -ecis-

    //-install guides-//-total lighting group buy-//-zkw group buy-// -exhaust group buy-//-ellipsoids+hid group buy-//-led tails group buy-//

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PQ & USA
    Posts
    9,398
    My Cars
    --97 SC'd ///M3--04 ///M3 VERT--07 ESCALADE--
    Step 4) Trigger Wire Installation
    (Accessories wire method)


    Note: The Accessories wire method is one of many ways to wire the Angel Eyes. This method will allow you to have the Angel Eyes on all the time whenever the car is running. This is independent of whether your headlights/parking lights are on or off. When you turn off your car, the Angel Eyes will stay on for a few seconds since there is still power through the accessories wire. This will not cause any power drain issues as the Angel Eyes do not draw a lot of power.

    4a) Open the cover to the ECU box using a Torx 25 bit to remove four Torx head screws. (Note: Some earlier cars might be HEX 27). Once the screws are removed, tilt the cover up and pull out.



    4b) Locate the red wire with white stripe and yellow/gold tracers. Install your blue wire tap using your pliers. DO NOT cut any wires or yank on any wires.



    4c) Route the red trigger wire into the ECU box and connect the end to the blue wire tap. I chose to lift one of the rubber grommets and lay the red trigger wire under. You can fish it through the grommet if you like for a more professional look.



    4d) Test the Angel Eyes by turning your ignition to position 2. If your Angel Eyes light up then you are good to go and you can begin cleaning up the loose ends.

    4e) Reinstall the ECU box cover at this point if your Angel Eyes are working ok.

    -zkw- -hella- -bosch- -depo- -prolumen- -kwd- -bbs- -predator chromium- -predator ice- -simota- -ecis-

    //-install guides-//-total lighting group buy-//-zkw group buy-// -exhaust group buy-//-ellipsoids+hid group buy-//-led tails group buy-//

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PQ & USA
    Posts
    9,398
    My Cars
    --97 SC'd ///M3--04 ///M3 VERT--07 ESCALADE--
    Step 5) Clean Up

    5a) Tape the 2nd Trigger wire. If you are not using the second trigger wire (wire closest to relay), you should tape it using electrical tape and tuck it away. Make sure to tape up the connector end so that it doesn't accidentally get in contact with the frame of the car.

    5b) Zip tie the harness. Using zip ties, secure the harness down along the fender, etc. Make sure no wires come in direct contact with the engine.

    5c) (Optional, assuming you made a slit on the rubber boot from steps 2f/g) Silicone the incision area on the rubber boot where the Angel Eye wires were installed. This should prevent any moisture from possibly getting into your headlights.

    5d) With the lense still off the headlights, check the Angel Eyes to make sure they are still aligned and in the proper position.

    5e) Reinstall your headlight inner bezel but DO NOT snap on the upper outer corner. If you snap it in place it will push the Angel Eye ring too close to your projector housing and possibly interfere with the self leveling adjustments. It will be fine to leave that one corner loose.

    5f) Reinstall your headlight lense and trim following the reverse procedures you following for removal.

    5g) Using some wire loom, dress up the wires coming from the back of the headlights, the wires from the igniter ballast to the harness, etc.



    5h) If you did not mount the igniter boxes from step 3j, mount them now. You do not want those boxes bouncing around when you are driving. :-) I secured mine directly on top of the headlight tucked under the radiator support where you can not see it. See image below.



    Step 6) Go out, drive your car, and enjoy your new Angel Eyes!!!

    -zkw- -hella- -bosch- -depo- -prolumen- -kwd- -bbs- -predator chromium- -predator ice- -simota- -ecis-

    //-install guides-//-total lighting group buy-//-zkw group buy-// -exhaust group buy-//-ellipsoids+hid group buy-//-led tails group buy-//

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    KNOXVILLE
    Posts
    1,708
    My Cars
    2001 740il
    Great DIY...Its like you dont have to think at all....Is there a diy for e36

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Loganville GA
    Posts
    1
    My Cars
    BMW 328i E46 1999

    Thumbs up GREAT!!! I gonna do mine soon!!.

    Great DIY. A big decision in get one of these Angel Eyes. I was trying to figure how hard it will be to install them before buy them.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    1,024
    My Cars
    04' 330ci ZHP, 96 BMW 328is(sold)
    are there any DIY's on 04 E46's?? where the headlight unit is one piece?
    -if its not a bimmer why bother driving it !

    2004 330ci ZHP - stock .....for now
    1996 bmw 328is(SOLD)


  9. #9
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    653
    My Cars
    01 740il - 06 X5 4.4

    Angel Eyes "Remote Feature" DIY

    I did this write-up a while back, it's for my E38 but it should help out line the secondary trigger install for others too.
    For instance on the E46 you go in through the firewall on the passenger side and hook into the Pass. footwell light under the glove box.

    I think it's a worthwhile contribution to the new lighting forum.
    ____________________________________
    I decided to put together a DIY For E38 owners who have the Umnitza Predator Chromium Angel Eyes.....

    There is a brown wire in the harness that umnitza supplys with the Angel eyes, this is known as a secondary trigger wire.
    When this wire is hooked into the circuit that sends power to your interior lights your angel eyes will light when you lock and unlock your car, and fade in and out like your interior lights do when you hit the unlock button on your key...

    It's a wonderful feature... I love being able to hit a button in a dark parking lot and see them glow.

    Since there is no write-up on this anywhere I've seen and Matt from Umnitza Needed some Pics for his Web site I thought I would throw this together...

    Pop your hood....We will be working here first. Behind the drivers side shock tower.


    The first thing we want to do is remove the plastic piece and small metal clamp from the hood release cable...We will be entering the firewall thru the grommet around the hood release cable.



    I used a panel removal tool, screwdriver and some patience to pop mine off.

    Now that we have removed the plastic cover, make a small cut in the top of the grommet with a utility knife...


    Next we remove the drivers side footwell covering. This is secured by 3-4 phillips head screws and two twist knobs.. It comes off very easily..


    After its off and you look up twords the hood release cable you'll see this... "Its behind the E-Brake Arm in this pic.


    Now that you have removed the footwell panel you can put a Coat hanger or mechanics fishing tool through your cut on the grommet in the engine bay.. like so.


    Get youself 3-4 feet of wire and extend the brown remote trigger wire so its long enough to fish where we need it....Dont forget to do an nice job and solder and shrink wrap it like me.


    Fish the wire neatly back to the hood release area..


    Now that the trigger wire is extended and fished back to where we want it, Tape it to the end of your wire nice and tight and fish it through...

    The interior side of the grommet is behind that big wiring loom....Its also where our power wire will be found...



    The next step is to remove the light on the bottom your drivers door, You want to do this to identify the positive wire for the light. You will be tapping into this in the footwell area to get your power for the trigger...
    BMW used different wire colors so its best to remove and check what we want to tap into...
    It pops off easily with a panel removal tool or screwdriver...
    My wires were Red with blue stripe "Positive" and Brown W/white stripe "Negative".


    So now that we have identified the wire we need our power from we go back to the footwell and remove the tape from the large wire loom so we can find and tap into our power source...


    I removed the tape and singled out "Wraped around" the wire we need to tap ^^.... Get out your handy 18-22 guage wire tap... "Radio Shack"....
    And put one end around your fished wire from your DDE relay and one around your positive from your door light..

    Snap it in..

    And thats it...Button everything back up the way you found it, secure the clamp and collar on the hood release cable and pat yourself on the back you now have Remote controlled Angel Eyes....




    01-740il Biarritz Blue - 20" Alpina Softlines - Michelin Pilot Sports - Bilstein H.D.'s - Eibach Pro-Kit Springs - S.S. Quad Tip Magnaflow Exhaust - Strong Strut Brace - Predator Chromium Angel Eyes - Prolumen 6K HID Fogs - L.E.D. Lic. Plate lights - 16:9 Widescreen/MK3 Retrofit - NavTool Video on Nav. interface - Mediagate MG-25 Mediaplayer - Backup Camera - BSW Subwoofer System - Crystal Corners - Stealth Bulbs - Euro one piece armrest - Remote powerfolding mirrors - Cross Drilled Rotors - Ceramic Pads - More to come....


  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PQ & USA
    Posts
    9,398
    My Cars
    --97 SC'd ///M3--04 ///M3 VERT--07 ESCALADE--
    added to the DIY stickey, with credit to author...

    -zkw- -hella- -bosch- -depo- -prolumen- -kwd- -bbs- -predator chromium- -predator ice- -simota- -ecis-

    //-install guides-//-total lighting group buy-//-zkw group buy-// -exhaust group buy-//-ellipsoids+hid group buy-//-led tails group buy-//

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    PQ & USA
    Posts
    9,398
    My Cars
    --97 SC'd ///M3--04 ///M3 VERT--07 ESCALADE--
    Quote Originally Posted by E36Bimmer View Post
    are there any DIY's on 04 E46's?? where the headlight unit is one piece?
    same as above except for:

    pull the headlights off, preheat the oven to 225-250 And remove all screws from the headlight housing as possible. remove everything metal and rubber that you can tol not to welt or cook anything.

    remove the bulbs, Flasher bulb is behind the round port. Pull plug straight up to remove. Then the hard metal wire clip push down and slid to the side to unclip. The bulb will come out very easily.

    leave off the all caps that coved the bulbs, so no heat would be trapped in the housing, just to be safe.

    15 minutes later, pull them apart with a big flat screw driver. It should be pretty easy.

    install the angel eys.

    Back in the oven, to seal them up, install the bulbs, screws, and mount the head lights.

    -zkw- -hella- -bosch- -depo- -prolumen- -kwd- -bbs- -predator chromium- -predator ice- -simota- -ecis-

    //-install guides-//-total lighting group buy-//-zkw group buy-// -exhaust group buy-//-ellipsoids+hid group buy-//-led tails group buy-//

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    MN
    Posts
    653
    My Cars
    01 740il - 06 X5 4.4
    Quote Originally Posted by habbie View Post
    added to the DIY stickey, with credit to author...

    Thanks Habbie, I'm happy to contribute. I hope it helps some folks
    Last edited by Lexicon740il; 09-07-2007 at 03:47 PM.

    01-740il Biarritz Blue - 20" Alpina Softlines - Michelin Pilot Sports - Bilstein H.D.'s - Eibach Pro-Kit Springs - S.S. Quad Tip Magnaflow Exhaust - Strong Strut Brace - Predator Chromium Angel Eyes - Prolumen 6K HID Fogs - L.E.D. Lic. Plate lights - 16:9 Widescreen/MK3 Retrofit - NavTool Video on Nav. interface - Mediagate MG-25 Mediaplayer - Backup Camera - BSW Subwoofer System - Crystal Corners - Stealth Bulbs - Euro one piece armrest - Remote powerfolding mirrors - Cross Drilled Rotors - Ceramic Pads - More to come....


  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada
    Posts
    565
    My Cars
    E34 M5, '80 911 SC
    Hi there. I'm having a having a tough time finishing my electrical. I purchased a complete, sealed, angel eyes headlight kit from Umnitza, all assembled and pre wired. I removed the old headlight unit and installed the new one no problem. I then hooked up the ballast and tested for power. I have power but the lights come on as soon as the battery is connected, even with the car shut off. I have the 2 trigger wires (brown and red) which I wasn't EXACTLY sure where to connect. I was told by umnitza that I could tap the wires to the front turn signals. This did not work. I believe I must tap the accessories wire in the ecu box yes? I tried this last night but there are a LOT of red wires and red and white wires in there. I have no idea which one to tap. Also, do I need to use both the brown and red wires from the headlights or just the red one? Being in Canada i need to hook it up for daytime running light operation as well, which I hear is a red and white wire in the ecu box (one of the many red and white wires that is)

    thanks,

    nix

    This is for a '95 740i (not for my M5 pictured below!)
    Last edited by nixter; 09-17-2007 at 03:10 PM.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Vancouver, BC, Canada
    Posts
    565
    My Cars
    E34 M5, '80 911 SC
    Here are pictures of the rear of my headlight unit with power hooked up as well as a picture of my ecu. You can see the brown and red wires frmo the headlight unit which i need help with.

    Thanks!

    nix
    Attached Images Attached Images

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    raleigh
    Posts
    251
    My Cars
    1995 BMW 325i
    any DIY angel eyes predator chromium for e36 depo?
    '95 4dr CALYPSO FTW!!


  16. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    7
    My Cars
    1999 328i
    The write up (first one in) is exceptional, Thanks

    -Mike

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    UK
    Posts
    29
    My Cars
    bmw 320d SE
    i did this for my E46 sedan RHD but now my interior lights are not working at all!! WHY??

    i hooked up the cables to the battery and the brown trigger wire to the footwell light by connecting to the blue wire and NOT the brown as advised on the forums.

    as to connecting the brown wire and red wires (in the harnesses) to the angel eyes, what colour goes to which as the original wiring for the sidelights have two wires of which one is brown and the other is multicoloured... so should the brown go with brown and the red with the multicolured??

    http://www.fastm.com/m3/angeleyes/angeleyes04.jpg

    need help urgently!!

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    The Colony(Dallas), Texas
    Posts
    288
    My Cars
    2001 330CI
    Tip on installing in a 2001 -
    There is NO screw on 2001's for the turn signal markers! You have to take a long screw driver through that oval slot and angle it back a bit to press down on a small tab that is about 5 inches down

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •