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Thread: I can PROBABLY get the S50 B30/32 VALVE TAPPET DEPRESSOR (115-070): Who wants one??

  1. #1
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    I can PROBABLY get the S50 B30/32 VALVE TAPPET DEPRESSOR (115-070): Who wants one??

    I have a source in Germany that can get me the S50 valve tappet depressor that is so damn hard to find.

    Cost is $100 shipped within the lower 48 states. [Shipping to other parts of the world will be higher.]

    NOTE: this cost is a preliminary estimate provided by my source. I will have final pricing in the next few days but it won't be more than $20 off my quote above.


    Who's interested?

    Please list your names in this thread...

    1. BSH
    2.
    3.
    4.
    5.
    .
    .
    .

  2. #2
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    Great!!! Add me in.
    I Live in NSW Australia
    Philip A

  3. #3
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    1. BSH
    2. Phillip A
    3. gobuffs
    4.
    5.
    It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.

    Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997

    I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by gobuffs View Post
    1. BSH
    2. Phillip A
    3. gobuffs
    4. ixm3
    5.
    xxx

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gobuffs View Post
    1. BSH
    2. Phillip A
    3. gobuffs
    4.
    5.
    bruce you want to split it? Otherwise

    1. BSH
    2. Phillip A
    3. gobuffs
    4. ixm3
    5. SG_M3
    Sean

  6. #6
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    1. BSH
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    cheers, Alan



    1/4 mile-12.92 @ 108.64mph-NA 3.0L m3 daily driver

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by morerevsm3 View Post
    1. BSH
    2. Phillip A
    3. ixm3
    4. SG_M3
    5. morerevsm3 (Australia)
    Taking my name off.
    It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.

    Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997

    I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!

  8. #8
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    I'm just waiting to hear back from the guy in Germany.

    Anyone else?

  9. #9
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    im assuming this is different from the s54 one correct?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Serious View Post
    im assuming this is different from the s54 one correct?
    Correct.

  11. #11
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    im in for one. this is cheaper than the employee pricing at the dealer. any deals on the shims?
    The Original GoldMember!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thewiseguy View Post
    im in for one. this is cheaper than the employee pricing at the dealer. any deals on the shims?
    I'll ask about shims.

    1. BSH
    2. Phillip A
    3. ixm3
    4. SG_M3
    5. morerevsm3 (Australia)
    6. Thewisegy

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by BSH View Post
    I'll ask about shims.

    1. BSH
    2. Phillip A
    3. ixm3
    4. SG_M3
    5. morerevsm3 (Australia)
    6. Thewisegy
    thank you, the shim kit is rediculously expensive.
    The Original GoldMember!!

  14. #14
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    Do you have the part number for the shim kit? I've never searched for it.

  15. #15
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    The shim kits are listed under the E30 M3 and E28/E34 M5, E24 M6, and the Euro E36 M3 3.0L in the parts catalog. They are about $700-800 retail ands contain 4 of each shim from 3.00mm to 4.25mm in 0.05mm increments (approx 0.002"). You will find that most factory engines use a LOT of the same damn shim size, since BMW castings and machining tolerances are very good.

    One thing that I just learned from Alex Lipowich: To reduce weight in the valvetrain, BMW went to thinner shims on the 3.2L. If you look up the Euro 3.0L and 3.2L valvetrain, you will find shims from 2.00mm to 2.95mm in addition to the individual and shim kits that run 3.00-4.25mm. If you open up a Euro 3.0 or 3.2 and find a lot of shims in the thinner ranges, you will have to order them individually.

    Shim kit is 11 34 9 061 386, and about $700-800.
    James Muskopf
    RRT Racing
    DC Metro's premier BMW service and racing facility

  16. #16
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    UPDATE:

    I read in a previous thread that the S14/S38 tool won't work on the S50 motor. However, I received the following email from JamesM3M5 who has 1st hand experience with this:
    Quote Originally Posted by JamesM3M5
    I didn't want to say this publicly and ruin your sales, but the standard S14/S38 tool I have from Sir Tools (BMW 3012) works great on Euro engines. Just to be sure I double checked on our Euro 3.2L engine in our racecar, and sure enough, it works. I believe the cams are Sunbelt regrinds, so that may change things, but I also did a valve adjustment on this same engine when I put a stock head/stock cams on it 2 years ago. This is Andy Watts' old engine. To be honest, I've never opened the valve cover on my own Euro engine from my street car Guess it's time to get dirty...

    JamesM
    Just to be clear, I'm not making any money on the sale of the S50 tool so I'm happy to share James' email with you.

    Also, I have no problem with you guys opting for the S14/38 tool if it's cheaper. Feel free to remove your name from the list if you no longer want the S50 tool.

    The S14/38 tool is listed on eBay for a "buy it now" price of $94.50 - $119.95 plus shipping: CLICK
    Last edited by BSH; 08-28-2007 at 01:54 PM.

  17. #17
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    I dont wanna sound stupid, but why would i need a S50 valve tappet depressor? When would that part need to be replaced.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by calypsoSA View Post
    I dont wanna sound stupid, but why would i need a S50 valve tappet depressor? When would that part need to be replaced.
    This tool is necesary for adjusting valves on solid lifter heads, such as the S14/38/50.
    Last edited by BSH; 08-28-2007 at 05:41 PM.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by BSH View Post
    This tool is necesary for adjusting valves on solid lifter heads, such as the S14/38/50. I *think* valve adjustments are performed every 40k miles?

    I think they are supposed to be checked every 15k.
    It's not speed that kills, it's the speed difference that does. Obviously you aren't going fast enough.

    Turning Benjamins into noise since 1997

    I read a list of the 100 things you MUST do before you die. Funny, "Yelling 'HELP'" didn't make the list!

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by gobuffs View Post
    I think they are supposed to be checked every 15k.
    I defer to you on that one, Bruce. I really can't remember.

  21. #21
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    Adding one more member to the list...

    1. BSH
    2. Phillip A
    3. ixm3
    4. SG_M3
    5. morerevsm3 (Australia)
    6. Thewiseguy
    7. JamesM3M5

    (FYI - the S50 tool is still cheaper than the S14/38 tool.)

  22. #22
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    Yes, BMW calls for a valve check/adjustment every 15k miles or Inspection 1. Typically, only a few valves actually need a shim change, whether you're talking about an S14, S38, S50, or S54. Sure as hell costs a lot to get done, though.

    The S14/S38 tool has 2 different width depressors, since those engines have different spacing between the lifter buckets on the intake and exhaust valves. The exhaust side of my tool seems to work great on the S50B32 engine we have under the hood of our car right now. I have not pulled my own valve cover off of my B32 (way overdue!), and I also have not opened a B30 cover to check clearances, so technically I have only one engine I've used the S14/S38 tool on so far.
    James Muskopf
    RRT Racing
    DC Metro's premier BMW service and racing facility

  23. #23
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    Shims....

    15-20k mile interval is about right for adjustment.

    In chicago, when we build a race motor, I get custom ground shims to get EXACTLY what our mechanic Al Valenzo wants for his gaps (trade secret I think! [mostly joking])

    James is paraphrasing me well.

    The LARGEST of the shims you'll typically find in a S50B32 engine will be the SMALLEST of the ones in the S14/S38/S50B30 set range.

    Don't even bother to try to shim a 3.2 using a stock kit for those motors.

    The situation is even WORSE when you send a head out like we do to our race shop for a precision race valve job and pressure test. It comes back with such amazing precision and tolerances that we have to use a ton of the SAME sized SMALL shims, and we inevitably have to go and custom grind a few handfuls of them to get it where we want it.

    I think that most dealerships delegated to do a "shim" job on any given engine are always pressured and strained to "make do" with what they have rather than order the right sizes. Having watched Al Valenzo try out 3 different "same" sized shims to get the measurements he really wants, I now appreciate what doing it carefully for a race motor vs making do with what is in the kit can mean.

    This is NOT meant as a condemnation of anyone out there who makes a living maintaining cars, mostly meant to point out that this gap is meaningful, and ordering individual shims is expensive, takes time, and its a complete PIA.

    We're lucky at Patrick BMW to have Al there, and Eric R. for our custom grinding to make thinner ones, and to have access to several years of S50B32 shims in the first place.

    Note that we only grind one side of the shim to preserve the special hardened surface on the flip side. Both sides are hardened from the factory, but once we make a custom one, it should not be reversed. Wear patterns make it clear which side has been on top.

    Whew... thats a mouthful.

    Alex.
    Alex Lipowich
    xyobgyn on AOL

    Trying to make the world a better place with 5 extra throttle bodies at a time.

  24. #24
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    I think a shim kit would be a waste of money, as when I checked mine it was clear that only a few go out of spec. The shims are AFAIR about $10 each.

    My experience with older engines, would you believe Coventry Climax design in a Hillman Imp, suggests that you may be able to swap one shim to another valve also.
    I am still a go on the tool, as the measurement has to be pretty exact between the buckets, and unless it is exactly correct ie the centre spline between the buckets, and the width on the bucket edge, you may be faced with grinding a tool or having slop.
    Regards Philip A

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Philip A View Post
    I think a shim kit would be a waste of money, as when I checked mine it was clear that only a few go out of spec. The shims are AFAIR about $10 each.

    My experience with older engines, would you believe Coventry Climax design in a Hillman Imp, suggests that you may be able to swap one shim to another valve also.
    True, if you're doing it yourself for one car, a shim kit is a waste of money. For a shop that services M cars, it's a no-brainer. Nobody wants to drop their car off for 3-4 days just to get a valve adjustment. Sterling BMW, our local dealer, hasn't been around too long, and I seriously doubt they even stock shims even after we've ordered dozens in the last couple years.

    Yes, swapping/reusing shims is commonplace. They are exceptionally hard, and unless you have some extremely accurate micrometers, you won't be able to measure an appreciable difference.

    Alex's engine guy sounds like me - perfectionist. I don't have a grinding table, though, so I have to settle for +/- 0.002" precision. I'm sure it makes a difference in valve open/close times, especially with high lift cams.
    James Muskopf
    RRT Racing
    DC Metro's premier BMW service and racing facility

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