The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

[deen3]

i have the transmission fault light going off in my dash still.

is there a way around that? just pull the bulb?

no one did anything with that extra pedal beyond the accelerator pedal huh?

[pianoman90]

i have the transmission fault light going off in my dash still.

is there a way around that? just pull the bulb?

no one did anything with that extra pedal beyond the accelerator pedal huh?

Yeah, just pull the bulb from the cluster. You're OBD1 correct?

[deen3]

yessir, im ODB1. thats it huh?

i should be fine for emissions?
anyone ODB1 have problems passing?

[SecretAznSauce]

I feel the same way. Thats why I want to fix the issue. I want to fixure out what is different on the idle control with a manual vs an automatic.

As for the starting issue. I think it was the starter for sure. If so, Theskill was the first to present the issue so he can claim his 50 bucks! Thanks for the help on that issue as well.

i think i have a solution, i dont like the idea of wiring to the clutch or the brake, since youare constanyly excersing the relay, the big yellow one at the the comnfort realy area. gosh it was so wasy, I just wried it up to the starter wire blk/yellow at the ignition, it gives 12vdc during cranking and nothing when released

[SecretAznSauce]

alright, it works. car starts like its suppose to and cruise works as it suppose to

[pianoman90]

deen3 - Yeah, you're fine to pull the bulb from the cluster. To my knowledge, I've never heard of any OBD1 having emission problems.

[uoYkcuF]

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...53#post3784453

Can't someone here that's done this answer this? I sure you guys had to go through this when you did your swap.

[str8 gone]

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...53#post3784453

Can't someone here that's done this answer this? I sure you guys had to go through this when you did your swap.

I think that spring connects to the bracket that activates the brake light switch...it's a PITA to connect too

[uoYkcuF]

I think that spring connects to the bracket that activates the brake light switch...it's a PITA to connect too

No, it doesn't. That's the other spring on the brake pedal side.

Lol, no one here connected this spring when they did their swap?

[Boosted318is]

I guess I did not connect the spring. I attached a picture of my clutch pedal assembly and I do not have a spring attached at the top as shown. Maybe I am missing it as well....

Let me know if you install it. I could not figure out where the spring would attach to.

[EMMM TREE]

are u blind man? look at the clutch pedal switcht, just to the right of it..........see it now?

[Boosted318is]

That roght side spring is for the brake pedal. If you look on the top of the clutch pedal you will see a spot for the spring to attach wihtout a spring. Refer to the ETK picture of the clutch assembly.

[Boosted318is]

Here is the ETK Picture

[INeedHelp]

are u blind man? look at the clutch pedal switcht, just to the right of it..........see it now?

Are you blind? I said the clutch side not brake side.

[Boosted318is]

So has anyone connected this spring???

[funkmasta]

The reason the RPMs drop (the same reasons that Auto cars generally idle lower than manual) is because of the torque converter. At a "normal" idle rpm, it will begin to put strain on the torque converter, so generally Auto cars will idle 100rpms or so slower than manual.

[Mrmontecristo]

Guys,
Great thread and one that I've been watching for quite awhile. I had my (now ex) mechanic do the swap for me. He took forever. Thank God we had agreed on a not to exceed price, because he whined about his guys having put in over 25 hours of labor into the job. Anyway, bottom line is they didn't get to hook up the reverse lights or the cruise control. I ended my relationship with them before letting them spend another 25 hours figuring out how to wire up these two items. I won't go into the other reasons (shoddy workmanship) why they are fired, and I think you've heard enough.
I need to get these two items working again. I can DIY.
1. Can someone walk me through connecting up the back up lights? I know the switch is on the back of the tranny, but where will the wires be and what color are they? Are they labeled in the Bentley? ( I have a Bentley)
2. Where is the wiring harness I need to tap into to get the cruise control working again. I've read the fix using the relay, and have no problem doing the work, just need some direction as to where the wires are.
3. Any other tips on getting these two items resolved is much appreciated.

Again, great thread and keep it going! THanks for any help with my predicament....
MrMonte

[Boosted318is]

I have no problems helping you out. Let's take it offline unless we have some beneficial information for the entire group. I think talking over the phone is a good solution to these wiring issues. drop me an e-mail at dave_aupperle@hotmail.com and we can go from there. I had a mechanic do the swap but I finished the wiring myself.

We can always post the solutions

[Boosted318is]

The reason the RPMs drop (the same reasons that Auto cars generally idle lower than manual) is because of the torque converter. At a "normal" idle rpm, it will begin to put strain on the torque converter, so generally Auto cars will idle 100rpms or so slower than manual.

With this is mind, Where does the idle program reside?? Is it in the E-prom. Can I replace my eprom with that from a manual with the same DME and just have the new eprom "aligned" to my car??

Also, I configured my clutch to essentially switch the shift selector electronics between drive and park. Every time I release the clutch at idle (aka engage drive) the idle drops hard and then flutuates for a few seconds before stabilizing. Is there a solution to this issue by disabling a wire from the tranny control unit to the DME??

[uoYkcuF]

Maybe you guys should do a little write up or better explaining of the reverse light. I've read through this entire thread a few times and all I got was "you need a switch."

Someone should explain what wires turn need to be cutted, rounted, soldered, or what ever.

Just a thought...

[Seeker]

Isn't the switch inside the tranny and you hook the reverse light wiring up to the side of the trans.??

I dunno... good question.

[al_r]

From the M3 forums:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...=277523&page=3

[str8 gone]

Maybe you guys should do a little write up or better explaining of the reverse light. I've read through this entire thread a few times and all I got was "you need a switch."

Someone should explain what wires turn need to be cutted, rounted, soldered, or what ever.

Just a thought...

Just a thought....but maybe YOU should buy a bentley manual and stop assuming that the members of these forums owe you something...Sorry if it wasn't described step by step for you, but keep in mind it wasn't described step by step for any1 else either. If you have a question about a wiring problem with your swap,then ask away, but don't bash everyone for not making your life easier for you. My message to you here is your screen name as viewed from a mirror!
Have a nice day and good luck with your wiring woes

[Mrmontecristo]

After getting an offer for assistance from Boosted 318is , my homework was to go THOROUGHLY through my Bentley and familiarize myself with ALL THE INFO TO MAKE THE WIRING CONNECTIONS. I did so, and then went ahead and dove in feeling pretty good about my level of understanding, where the wires were, what colors I was looking for and what I needed to do. With the Bentley and the info offered up in this killer thread, you should be able to pull this off with time, patience, and Pacificos!
I bought the radio shack switch today and did a little investigation under my driver's side area. Lo and behold, my clutch switch doesn't even make up with the clutch disengaged! Had I wired up the RS relay it would not have worked per the fix listed in this thread. I had to glue a little rubber grommet to the backing plate that the switch plunger engages to to make the switch work. I tested the continuity of the switch after the grommet addition and it checks out just fine.
Then I tore into the center console and found where my shoddy mechanic left the auto trans range wiring connector. Now I just need to find a susitable route for the wires and make the proper connections and all should be well with the cruise control. From the center console, I'll route the proper wiring to the reverse light switch and get that working as well. I'll take photos of all of this along the way and post them for the world to see.
I have to say, having a Bentley, and knowledge of electrical print reading is a huge plus here. I couldn't have done it any other way..... I know our comrade uoykcuf was only trying to be helpful, but your name alone is like nails on a chalk board for some members, including myself......Your messages always seem to get lost in translation.....
Peace
MrMonte.

[al_r]

MrMonte - have you tried bending the bracket the clutch switch mounts in? If it's not making contact, that bracket should be pretty easy to bend - I had to massage mine back and forth a few times while installing clutch pedal bushings...
Also, though the relay fix works, if I had/have to do mine again, I would go with a brake switch in the clutch switches place - it's another $10, but more reliable and sanitary...