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Thread: The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

  1. #101
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    I called patrick bmw today and I explained my problem to some guy named chris in service and he said they MIGHT be able to help me out.I'm alittle leery of dealors service dept.knowing anything about a custom job!!Maybe someone should give falline a call and see what they have to say.

  2. #102
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    thank Al. Now I understand.

    I actually do have a Check engine light on mine as well ( at least thats what i think that light is).

    I would love to figure out how to make it go away. no codes in the reader either.

    Not sure about the dealers, but the guys at fall-line really know their stuff. i forget his name, but one of their guys is an awesome elec wizard.

    pretty funny that we all live in the same basic area. i am only 45 min from schaumburg area.

    wade
    wade@bimmerpower.com

  3. #103
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    did any of you swap your auto engine harness for one from a 5 speed? I bet that would solve many MANY problems.

  4. #104
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    Wade let us know if you get this curred at falline.

  5. #105
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    hmmm...how much is the engine harness from a 5 speed??

  6. #106
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    Engine harnesses are usually $100-$200

  7. #107
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    That's the last thing I want to do is mess with my wiring harness!!There has to be a way erase the code and light and jump some wires to fool the computer tto think that the auto is still there..

  8. #108
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    M4 + CT200h

    driveshaft question

    ok, for the drive shaft... what is the bolt pattern from a MANUAL M3 on the driveshaft which attaches to the transmission.
    3 correct? 3bolt to themanual M3 transmission and 6 to the differential input flange?
    or is it
    4bolt to the manualM3 transmission then 6 to the differntial input flange....

    I have a driveshaft that is 4bolt to the tranny/guibo(which wont fit) and 6bolt to the input flange of the diff....

    please help?
    -frKENm3 | 2016 M4 ZCP | "Your not Alive unless your Living" | Ownership: 08/31/2016 - Current

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  9. #109
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    Cruise control wiring update

    bimmerpower (Wade) was right regarding the cruise being disabled in order to start:
    In my '96, the connector that goes to the auto shift lever switch to determine what gear it's in is rectangular and
    has eight pins.
    One of the corner pins, pin 5 (Bently's says Grn/Gry, mine was just Grn) is hot when in Run or Start.
    If the auto switch is in Park or Neutral, a signal called L2 (pin 7, Brn/Blk) is also hot, allowing the car to start.
    Once the car is started, if L2 is hot, the cruise is disabled, but if L2 is not hot, cruise is operational.
    Now, if the clutch switch is open when the clutch is engaged (pedal up), and closed when the pedal is depressed, this is a perfect replacement for the auto shift switch - depress the clutch = P or N = OK to start, clutch pedal out = not in P or N = OK to cruise.

    Thx Wade!

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by al_r
    One of the corner pins, pin 5 (Bently's says Grn/Gry, mine was just Grn) is hot when in Run or Start.
    If the auto switch is in Park or Neutral, a signal called L2 (pin 7, Brn/Blk) is also hot, allowing the car to start.
    Once the car is started, if L2 is hot, the cruise is disabled, but if L2 is not hot, cruise is operational.
    NICE...Thnx al_r
    According to bentley this applies to 92-97 (ex.318) models

  11. #111
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    Re: The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

    Were do you erase the tranny light from the obd 2 port or the port under the hood wer the shark injector plugs into?

  12. #112
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    Re: The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by 97m3john
    Were do you erase the tranny light from the obd 2 port or the port under the hood wer the shark injector plugs into?
    My Peake (plugs into the diagnostic port under the hood) only reads/resets engine codes; my OBD II scanner reads the AT fault codes (and also engine codes in a different format), but will not reset the AT fault codes; maybe cuz the tranny's not there.
    This is my last hurdle in the swap; got the cruise and backup lights figured out, if not actually done.
    Jimmyjoe - if you read this, where are you on your conversion? Any wisdom from the ZA CD re: wiring changes?

  13. #113
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    Re: The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

    went to fallline today steve and chris could not figure it out,but he said he would talk to a couple of people this week and for me to give him a call on thurs.
    He erased the codes from under the hood and they came right back after I restarted the car..With the trans. ecu disconnected made matters worse!!

  14. #114
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    Re: The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by al_r
    My Peake (plugs into the diagnostic port under the hood) only reads/resets engine codes; my OBD II scanner reads the AT fault codes (and also engine codes in a different format), but will not reset the AT fault codes; maybe cuz the tranny's not there.
    This is my last hurdle in the swap; got the cruise and backup lights figured out, if not actually done.
    Jimmyjoe - if you read this, where are you on your conversion? Any wisdom from the ZA CD re: wiring changes?
    The CD ( I don't think) addresses this issue at all. I will check again when I get home. What you could do though is call up zionsville and ask them what will happen to your computer when you purchase their 6-speed conversion and put it in. You would run into the same issues with that swap and your question is a valid one to them!

    As far as my swap is going. We had some issues with parts arriving on time and missing parts but all is getting there. I have the tranny in and i am waiting on a 6 bolt flange for my rear diff. also I am missing a shifter part but all those should be here on thurs.

    Here is a bit of information for all of you who are going to be doing the swap in the future.

    For some reason the engineers at BMW wanted to put the starter at the top of the bell housing. This makes it a PITA to get at. Bentley says to take out the whole intake manifold to get at it. But anyways, The problem is that when you are taking out the bell housing bolts the easiest way is by using a 2+ foot extension and getting them from behind the transmission. Well the problem is that the starter bolts have nuts on the other side!!! When I was taking the bolts out I sheard of the head of one of the starter bolts thinking it was just in too tight. I thought we were going to haul it to a shop then. Then I found out there are bolts on the other side of the starter ears. There is one that is right at the top of the BH and is nearly impossible to get at. What we ended up doing is grinding a wrench to about 1/3 its normal length and barely got it on the nut.

    I guess sometime in 95 model year they switched to a threaded starter so there are no need for nuts but my 95 (12/94) didn't have it.

    So good luck to you guys who have early e36's and are doing this...

    If you guys have any other questions regarding what the ZA kit says just ask and I'll look in it.

    Jimmyjoe

  15. #115
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    Re: The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

    anyone who done a tranny swap pass the test only smog test????? who had the swap done RIGHT!!??

  16. #116
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    Re: The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by actp16
    anyone who done a tranny swap pass the test only smog test????? who had the swap done RIGHT!!??
    I took my car to get smogged for the swap just last week. My cats were fried, so it failed one test under load (15mph). It passed all visual inspections tho. I didn't mention that it used to be an auto, even though I saw him check and correct the transmission type that it had in the computer.
    '94 325is #94 IP/GTS3 Mauritius Blue Metallic
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  17. #117
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    Re: The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

    Well I've called just about every shop worth calling and I think I got the anwser I have to get my computer erased then reprogrammed from the stealor so it doesn't search for the automatic tranny solenoids, there's no other way around getting it to pass the obd 2 smog check..

  18. #118
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    Re: The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by 97m3john
    Well I've called just about every shop worth calling and I think I got the anwser I have to get my computer erased then reprogrammed from the stealor so it doesn't search for the automatic tranny solenoids, there's no other way around getting it to pass the obd 2 smog check..
    a) Does the IL EPA care that your CEL is on because you've got OBD II tranny codes stored? I would think if there's no emissions related codes, you're OK...
    My inspection is due in Dec.
    b) Any quotes for 'getting "the computer erased"?

  19. #119
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    Well I called patrick bmwand they told me to bring it in and they'll see what they can do.That's scary at 100$ anhour and I'm also afraid I'm going to lose my conforti software upgrade after they reflash my ecu.My car runs so strong right now I'm afraid to let anyone touch it!!When I get a chance I'll call down to springfield epa hub and give them the run down and see what they have to say..I would think that the morons at the test facility would probably fail me thinking that my trans.is malf. and throwing more emisions inthe air.I really wish I could figure this out!!

  20. #120
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    Smile Cruise control fix!

    When last our heroes met, we had figured out how/why the cruise is disabled - by permanently jumping the L2 line hot, the car thinks it's in Park or Neutral and will enable the starter. But leaving this jumped disables the cruise control - because the car thinks it's is in Park or Neutral.
    The thought in my last post was that if the clutch switch was closed when (the clutch is) depressed, that would replace the permanent jumper, and both functions (start and cruise) would work. Alas, it was not to be...
    The clutch switch is closed when the clutch is released/up, opens about 1.5 inches down from rest; the reverse of what is needed. So, I went to Radio Shack and got a 12v 10A relay, PN 275-248 (~$5). Any relay with similar specs will work.

    We're going to wire the relay to invert the clutch switch...

    First, rewire the clutch switch so one side is ground (almost any solid brown wire under the OBC & switches will work); the other side of the clutch switch will go to one side of coil of the relay to energize it.

    Three wires to the relay:
    +12 (from pin 5 of the auto range switch, Green/Grey) to one side of the relay coil and also the NC connection
    The COMmon terminal gets connected to the Brown/Black wire (pin 7) of the auto range switch
    The 'output' of the clutch switch gets connected, as mentioned above, to the other end of the relay coil (that +12 is not).

    With this wiring scheme, when the clutch is depressed, the clutch switch is open and the relay is de-energized, connecting the NC (Normally Closed) terminal (+12) to COMmon, to wherever it needs to go to tell the car we're in Park.
    With the clutch pedal up, the clutch switch is closed, energizing the relay, and floating the COMmon terminal, thinking we're in gear.

    Pressing the clutch pedal down, you can hear the relay de-energize and the car starts; setting the cruise (it now works) and pressing the clutch disengages the cruise - just like OE!

    I soldered about six inches of wire to the relay to leave some slack and used double-sided tape to stick the relay out of harm's way.
    Last edited by al_r; 10-05-2004 at 03:24 PM. Reason: speeling

  21. #121
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    I was thinking of doing this also Al. but the problem was just as you described closed circuit when clutch is in. This is a fantastic answer to this problem!!!! GREAT JOB!!! Can you take a picture of the relay and how you have the wires plugged into it?

    Also one of the problems I have is taht I don't have that connector that goes on the clutch switch. Can you give me the pinouts instead of the wires for the connector?

    THANKS!!!

    Jimmyjoe

  22. #122
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    Lightbulb Cruise control fix wiring

    Jimmyjoe - I didn't have any wires to the clutch switch either, but some blue butt connectors (for 14-16 gauge wire) can be pressed onto the two pins of the clutch switch.
    Crimp some 18g speaker wire into one end of the butt connectors, then trim the excess blue plastic off the other end (maybe 3/16") and they'll be a tight press onto the pins. Run the speaker wire pair under the OBC, leave about 8" slack. Connect as I described earlier; one wire to ground, the other to one end of the relay coil.

    See pic...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by al_r; 10-05-2004 at 05:07 PM. Reason: Add pic

  23. #123
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    Nice work al!

    yeah... guess i neglected to mention that the circuit is opposite of what you want, and that a relay would be needed

    btw, as far as the CE light. i have a 95, so no ODBII programming. there are no settings i am aware of in the chip to tell it to ignore the auto check... so i am not sure i buy that yet.

    also, as far as emissions go... i dont think it is a State of IL EPA thing... but more likely a city / county thing. The only areas I know in IL that need inspections is the chicagoland area. I dont need them out here in rockford.

    later

    wade

  24. #124
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    You need to use a brake light switch on the clutch side and that works inverse of the clutch switch it works great..Use female connectors.

  25. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by 97m3john
    You need to use a brake light switch on the clutch side and that works inverse of the clutch switch it works great..Use female connectors.
    Now you tell me...
    Direct replacement (same mount, etc.?)

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