My main goal is to convert my '93 318is but for right now I'm looking for a used auto trans for a decent price. I love this thread it has given me a lot of ideas for my final goal for my baby but for commuting purposes I need a new trans someone please help
My first car is a 1994 325i with 62,000 miles on it but it's Automatic and I would love to drive 5-speed and im debating on buying a manual car or keep mine and do the auto to 5-speed swap. Could anyone help me out with some advice?
I would do it if you love your car, doing it is a little bit of a chore but so worth it, you are going to spend less than buying another car if you do everything yourself it's about 800-1200 depending on the parts you acquire and how much they cost and the condition they are in and if you need more parts . If you are really interested start reading page 80 since your car is an OBD1 it's easier so enjoy the read
Im in North Eastern Ohio and interested in swapping the trans in my auto 98 M3. Anyone within 300 miles willing to do the swap or can point me in the direction of someone who can perform it the right way? Thanks!
Look through the forums, and see who lives near by, doing this takes about 8 solid hours of work, so ask guy's in your area or just get brave start reading from page 80 and it should cover what you need, and as far as parts if you need to know I could tell you what you need
Will a 325is 5spd getrag work if I swap it into a 328is?
94' Matte White 325IS
I have been following this thread for what seems like years (probably because its been years). I decided to tackle the project and I am already at the half-way point. Yeah! I've cursed out the guibo bolts that would come out, the oil cooler lines, and don't even get me started on the clutch hard line! Nightmare, but the one thing this is finally breaking me is the clutch spring clip. I did not look at its original position when I took it out and I don't see a groove, or any place where this stupid thing fits into. Does ANYONE have a picture of where this clip goes? Here's a link to a picture just in case I'm not calling it by the correct name.
http://i.imgur.com/5iJ9JaN.jpg
Thanks!
I am stuck at this point. I swapped a 97 m3 sedan and did the wiring etc from this thread. I initially coded the kombi per your instructions and got the transmission light to go out. Then noticed the CEL and tried your instructions above which aren't working for me for some reason (217 code just comes right back after clearing. I've got dis and tiny ads cable which is working well for coding, ncsexpert etc). After more reading I found another post here that said I need to do the clear codes and pull trans chip before coding the kombi, so I did that just now. I put back the original codes for auto trans and coded everything. Trans light came back on. I cleared dme and egs and adaptations on both. The trans errors about solenoids kept coming back so I ignored them and proceeded. Pulled the chip and voila, no CEL light, and trans light on. Cool I thought, just what it's supposed to be. Coded the kombi back to manual and bam back comes CEL light with 217 error.
So one question maybe you could clarify, you said you put chip back in and back came the CEL, then you cleared everything and pulled chip and it was fine again. Question is, did you have kombi set for manual the whole time? It seems so since you gave the instructions for the coding.
Any other tips what might be wrong? I've had the computer out a dozen times and it's getting frustrating - I must be doing something wrong? Thanks a lot for taking the time to first put all this info down, and if you have time to help I would really appreciate it!!
One more bit of info I remembered later. I had to also change the VN number as mentioned here: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...1#post26701041
because I was getting the error that the coding data wasn't valid in dis, or in ncs it was the coapi-1000 error. I read a couple comments that people had issues like this with m3 that maybe don't happen with other cars? I need to drive the car but waiting on tag since it is a salvage title due to hydrolocked engine (not smashed up
I called Technica in Atlanta and they say they can tune this out but it's expensive. If someone can help I will gladly make it worth your while. I would like the light out and to be able to pass inspection if we move to a state where they have them. I have extensively tried and pretty much running out of ideas here. Checked last night that the other modules like EWS had gotten the coding and it had.
This is the VN issue I was talking about (where the digits are highlighted red), I had to change the same digit by the same value to get it to work. Interestingly the coupe manual/auto does not have this difference so I don't understand the deal (my car is a sedan).
CD03 16F30000 00004000040084C0 0000022116 1 LIM S50B32 AUT LL US //Limousine M3 A US S50 Tš
CD93 16E30000 00004000040084C0 0000026116 1 LIM S50B32 MAN LL US //Limousine M3 US S50 Tš A
hey guys,
ive recently done the swap from auto to manual on my 1998 328is and now i have computer problems and i need help ASAP. some problems im having: redline is at 5500rpm while driving 7000rpm on stand still rev; no feedback from engine ( codes saying fuel trim sensors, o2 sensors, air flow sensors, speed sensors. everything reads zero). right now i wired the car so that it thinks its always in park (not sure the wire colors located at the 7 pin switch) and i found out what wires went to the reverse lights and got that straight. right now the car runs, but the problem im having is making my check engine lights go off and the computer realizing that it is no longer auto. ive brought my car several places and had over 15 phone calls made and no one has the solution. the only thing ive been told is that i need to wire the ignition directly to the ews and bipass the auto trans computer. not sure how id even do that though. basically im at someones mercy here. what do i need to do to get: check engine light off, computer get feedback from the engine, rev all the way to red line, PASS AND INSPECTION (7 MONTHS OVERDUE NOW). PLEASE someone help me out here.
Well huh I reset everything once more and fired it up and the CEL went out. Haven't scanned it to see if there's any codes but just wanted to update with the good news.
Help needed! Today was the day where i would finally attempt to fire the car back up after the swap and now it will not turn over. Furthurmore,I have the nastiest noise when it attempts to crank. Here's the noisehttp://youtu.be/3P9r4-2sfHU
Anyone have any ideas? I am at a loss. Car was running perfectly prior to the swap. Help!
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...anual-wiring-Q
Seen as this is a transmission related issue, I thought Id post a link to my thread here hoping to get a prompt response
I have an auto M3 sedan got it for a cheap price even though I'm not about the automatic life. But what transmissions from other manual BMW's can I use? Are they all fairly universal? Regardless of the gear ratios, my M3 is stock. Could I fit any manual transmissions from an E46 into my E36?
I have a question has anyone completed a manual swap on an M44 Car? I did my girl friends car and I can't figure out how to get rid of the damn automatic ECU connection CEL.
Since this thread is all over the place in terms of any sequence... I usually don't do this since I'm sure it's already been mentioned numerous times but here it goes anyway. I've got a '97 328i convertible auto. I just picked up a '95 (10/94) 325i convertible manual that I'd like to do a manual trans swap using the parts from. Both cars retain the stock engine M52/M50 respectively. From what I've read, it looks like I will be able to do the swap using the auto harness and computer in the '97 as-is. Correct? Also, I 'm assuming that the '95 is OBD-I whereas the '97 is OBD-II; does this come into play at all? Thanks for the stupid questions in advance.
As far as I searched and looked, I cant find help for my problem. I have everything from a single 325tds (diesel) auto donor car, the problem is I am going to use my getrag 5 speed, and I cant find anything about the DDE(ECU), needing to be flashed over, or not. I dont want to have everything in, and it not starting.
so i got to work on this swap again after many setbacks. i decided to remove the intake manifold to access the rear nuts for the starter bolts (i have a 92 325i). i got the starter and the rest of the bellhousing buttoned up. then put back the intake manifold, which wasn't too complicated as i anticipated.
i got to start bolting the driveshaft but when i got everything bolted in i am about 1 or 2 inches a short. like the guibo bolt isnt even peeking on the other end to thread the nut.
i have a getrag transmission which i think came off a 95, i have the stock automatic 3.91 differential that came with the car.
what are my options? can the driveshaft be extended a lil bit from the center? or do i need to look for a whole new driveshaft?
You will for sure need a manual driveshaft because the auto is several inches shorter. I happen to have a 94 build m3 manual driveshaft if interested in buying it. It is the 6 bolt in the rear, a friend sold it to me for my swap but unfortunately wouldnt work on my 97 sedan. Just shipping from coast to coast can be a little pricey.
On another topic, i completed my swap followed all the steps to program everything. All correct values are put in, and when i start programming the software just hangs and doesnt respond. This is v57 upgrade from v44 while retaining all of v44s functionality. Should i just do a fresh install of v44? Is that the problem?
Last edited by SH330CI; 05-26-2016 at 04:41 PM.
Current:
1988 Alpine White M3
1997 Boston Green E36 M3 4dr
Past:
2007 Interlagos Blue BMW M5 SMG
2004 TIAG BMW 330ci zhp 6mt
2000 Gold Metallic B5 Audi A4 1.8T QT 5mt
1999 Cosmos Black BMW 318ti 5mt
1997 Montreal Blue BMW 318ti 5mt
Current:
1988 Alpine White M3
1997 Boston Green E36 M3 4dr
Past:
2007 Interlagos Blue BMW M5 SMG
2004 TIAG BMW 330ci zhp 6mt
2000 Gold Metallic B5 Audi A4 1.8T QT 5mt
1999 Cosmos Black BMW 318ti 5mt
1997 Montreal Blue BMW 318ti 5mt
Had my car coded after the manual swap, ecu programming successful, have manual idle, no rpm hang, reverse lights and clutch safety switch all work fine. However when i picked up the car after programming, the cel popped up, scanned the codes, 2 are soft codes for a pre cat o2 sensor which is slow, the other 5 are for the transmission shift solenoid. Being a 96 build 97 model year, my mechanic stated he could not get into the kombi but could code everything else through ncs expert. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by SH330CI; 05-31-2016 at 01:08 PM.
Current:
1988 Alpine White M3
1997 Boston Green E36 M3 4dr
Past:
2007 Interlagos Blue BMW M5 SMG
2004 TIAG BMW 330ci zhp 6mt
2000 Gold Metallic B5 Audi A4 1.8T QT 5mt
1999 Cosmos Black BMW 318ti 5mt
1997 Montreal Blue BMW 318ti 5mt
Lots of reading and variations here. Good stuff!
I'm in the middle of a swap on a 97 M3. Can anyone confirm if swapping in a manual ECU with EWS deleted along with pulling the transmission chip will solve all warning light issues?
Thanks!
starting mine in a few weeks
When is the build date? Mine is a 96 build date 97 and i am in the process of coding my kombi through ads to get rid of my cel once and for all. You do not need to remove the ecu for a manual, just reprogram everything over to manual in the ews, then the kombi then you are good to go. I heard 97s and up can be coded through the port in the car, mine requires to be codes through both the port under the hood and in the car. I dont have rpm hang, have manual idle, just some shift solenoid codes causing the cel.
Current:
1988 Alpine White M3
1997 Boston Green E36 M3 4dr
Past:
2007 Interlagos Blue BMW M5 SMG
2004 TIAG BMW 330ci zhp 6mt
2000 Gold Metallic B5 Audi A4 1.8T QT 5mt
1999 Cosmos Black BMW 318ti 5mt
1997 Montreal Blue BMW 318ti 5mt
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