The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

[m3j0n]

I didn't say I was annoyed. I asked a valid question. We get countless people who don't bother to read a single page. If you're on a laptop the answers to every possible question is on pages 80-107. Yes I've read all 107 but when I started there were only 93.

No special things to do just drain and pull the auto tyranny.
The wires going to the neutral safety switch will eventually get cut and joined together.
Neutral safety is in the auto shifter console. That entire console gets removed.
Check engine light will come on when you first do the swap. Instructions for turning it off are on 80-107.
Tranny wArming light will come on when you do the swap. Obd I cars just pull the bulb. OBDII cars require recoding.
Tranny computer must be left in. The abs is wired through it.

thanks for the help. the tranny warning light will make these swapped cars fail inspection in some states (even if the bulb is removed), right? Any idea what kind of hardware is required to "recode" the tranny computer? Thanks.

I didn't have any luck with using the aforementioned procedure for the check engine light. I ended up ordering another ecu off of eBay and it worked.

you bought another automatic transmission ecu, or engine ecu?

[spngr311]

Another ecu from a manual car. It was coded/programmed for a manual car.

[m3j0n]

Another ecu from a manual car. It was coded/programmed for a manual car.

a manual car shouldn't have a transmission computer, does it?

[spngr311]

The ecu looks for the auto transmission and throws a code if it doesn't find it.

[jrsmitchell]

Does anyone have a link handy which covers how to disconnect the Auto shifter gubbins from inside the cabin? And maybe the pedal assembly removal / install? I had one in an Evernote but somehow can't find it

[flyfishvt]

What's a gubbins? Pedal assembly is 4 bolts. Look at your new one. You don't really need to remove the assembly. Just swap brake pedals and instal the clutch pedal on your existing bracket.

[jrsmitchell]

Thanks fly. The pedal assembly should be ok, although I don't do "upside down under the dash" as well as I did 10 years ago

Gubbins is a technical term that means "the stuff" I'm not sure how the auto shift knob comes off, removing the accordion slidy thing at the base, etc. I'm sure I can figure it out but I previously had a nice link with pictures before that would be helpful. Thought someone else doing the swap might have it handy in bookmarks...

[flyfishvt]

thanks for the help. the tranny warning light will make these swapped cars fail inspection in some states (even if the bulb is removed), right? Any idea what kind of hardware is required to "recode" the tranny computer? Thanks. you bought another automatic transmission ecu, or engine ecu?

If your car is 92-95 (OBDI) then you remove the cluster and pull the bulb for the tranny warning light. That will allow you to pass any state inspection. There is testimony from people in Jersey and Cali on this. State inspections do not scan for tranny codes and tranny warning light codes do not show up on any other scans.

If your car is 96+ then it's OBD II. Turning off the tranny warning light requires you to do some recoding to get that light to turn off. You have to change a few code numbers to make the car think it came from the factory as a 5 speed car. This procedure requires a laptop with a real serial port, an ADS interface cable and software. The software is INPA and DIS. There are links in the software forum that allow you to download the software for free. Hardware will run you around $150. There are 2 slightly different procedures that are documented in the thread. They both work.

[flyfishvt]

Thanks fly. The pedal assembly should be ok, although I don't do "upside down under the dash" as well as I did 10 years ago Gubbins is a technical term that means "the stuff" I'm not sure how the auto shift knob comes off, removing the accordion slidy thing at the base, etc. I'm sure I can figure it out but I previously had a nice link with pictures before that would be helpful. Thought someone else doing the swap might have it handy in bookmarks...

Can't help you on the shifter. On 92-95 cars with the T style handle there is a Allen set screw on the front of the shifter handle that allows the handle to be removed. On later models with the pistol grip lever you pull up. The official procedure is to stand over the shifter and pull hard. Face shield is optional but recommended. If you have a vert then you put the top down and stand up in the car. They come off extremely hard.

[joncunanan]

Does it have to be in neutral when taking off the shifter / tranny?

[joncunanan]

Jrsmitchell, I'm in the middle of my swap and took out the driveshaft and shifter today. First thing I did was disconnect the line with that red accordion thing by the transmission pan with a 13mm.

Then I had to take off some interior panels to lift the shifter console then unbolted 3 bolts then pulled up. I had to wiggle it around and pull the cable from the under the tranny through the shifter console. There was also a harness that goes to that round cylinder that's on the right of their assembly.

This is a pic of it pulled out.
2014-08-24.jpg

If anyone of the swap pros can chime in and confirm or correct this method, thanks.

[joncunanan]

i just took out my shifter assembly, but i remember reading that the key could get stuck. i think it was the shift lock solenoid. but when i took out the shifter assembly there a white wire plug connected to the the round cylinder which i am assuming is the shift lock solenoid. That should stay INSIDE the car right? so i should unbolt it from the shifter assembly and reattach the white wire plug? please help ! i hope i didn't kill this project already.

here is a pic:

2014-08-25_114903.jpg

[flyfishvt]

Doesn't quite work that way. There is a Bowden cable that runs from the auto shifter to the ignition housing. Disconnect it from the shifter but it has to remain attached to the ignition housing. Besides that you disconnect any wiring from the shifter and throw it away.

[joncunanan]

So what I did is okay right?

[jrsmitchell]

@joncunanan - thanks for your reply. I found the link I was thinking of which had reference to the shifter and pedal assembly: http://shatteredk.blogspot.com/p/e36...325is-bmw.html

Reading through that I see reference to what you're asking about:

Notice the metal looking washer thing on the shifter, that is the only part that should be taking off from the interior. The locking solenoid should be kept in the car and not removed.

I don't really follow what it's saying.

[flyfishvt]

Ignore what it's saying. Disconnect any wire harnesses. Disconnect the Bowden cable from the shifter. Disconnect the shift cable from the tranny. Remove the entire shifter assembly. Toss it or save it. That's all

[joncunanan]

Thanks all for the responses, I will proceed then. Got the brake pedal out. Is it recommended to get the clutch and brake assembly in before dropping the transmission?

[flyfishvt]

Thanks all for the responses, I will proceed then. Got the brake pedal out. Is it recommended to get the clutch and brake assembly in before dropping the transmission?

After. Pull tranny, install hydraulics and pedals, install tranny, do the wiring, have a beer

[joncunanan]

Haha. Will do. I'll post my progress. Thanks for the help this thread is awesome.

[joncunanan]

when do you remove the transmission cooler and lines?

[Russell042]

Hey all, successfully completed my manual swap just this past weekend in my 1997 BMW M3, I cut wire #5 and #7 (from the auto shifter plug in) added extra wire and a terminal and plugged into an extra brake switch I had and put it in the place of the clutch switch, worked great. My CC still works and I have to depress the clutch pedal to start her. While I was in there I added UUC SS line, UUC reinforcement cups, F1 LTW fly, bearmotorsport short throw shifter kit and couldn't be happier with the results. The factory installed 3.38 LSD works wonders and she is a completely different car.

I have done my research, but I'm still slightly confused as to what to do on getting rid of my check engine light and gear light (as well as drop my idle to the normal manual transmission idle).. ive found the links to the BMW INPA Ediabas OBD ADS interface, but im not sure which one I should go with and which one offers a download to my laptop (I don't have a disc tray).. Any insight?

- - - Updated - - -

when do you remove the transmission cooler and lines?

Before you pull the trans, just get them completely out of the way.

[joncunanan]

are the transmission cooler lines reusable after they have been disconnect? a new set is like $250, but it looks like a paint to shimmy that out, where i can just cut it, if it's not reusable.

what is the consensus here?

[flyfishvt]

They are definitely reusable. I still have mine 2 years after the swap. Nobody wants them. Pull them and toss them.

[joncunanan]

So I got the the cooler lines disconnected and all the torx bolts removed. The transmission started to slide off but its stuck on something. Is the torque convertor bolted on some how? What else am I missing.

[joncunanan]

Never mind looked around and found the 3 bolts. Didn't have a transmission Jack so I had 2 car jacks to lower the transmission after i slid it off. It was a productive day.

Next up somehow fish out the disconnected cooler lines and then remove the automatic flywheel.

uploadfromtaptalk1409469209824.jpg