The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

[blatant]

bumping this.
Im about to route the soft line from the reservoir and hard line to the slave. What is the best way to go about this?
Should I move the fuse box to access the hole through the firewall for the line from the reservoir? What is the best way to run this?
I searched through the thread and came up with no results on the actual routing of both lines.

[flyfishvt]

Attach the soft line to the master and feed it back through the firewall. Hard line you'll have to play with or get a flexible stainless line.

[blatant]

I haven't taken a look at where the soft line routes through the firewall. I'm assuming I should be able to see the pre-marked hole, punch it out and route it.
Thanks for the response.

[scooper]

I haven't taken a look at where the soft line routes through the firewall. I'm assuming I should be able to see the pre-marked hole, punch it out and route it.
Thanks for the response.

yes that is correct. You can remove the brake servo for better access since you'll have the reservoir out.

[blatant]

Great. Routed the soft line, just have to route the hard line next. Shouldn't be too bad considering there is no engine or transmission in the engine bay.

[jayanbarb1983]

.

OK as promised. Here is my solution for Getting that auto tranny light to turn itself off and to reprogram the DME to think its a 5 speed car. I only did this on my OBDII car but Im pretty sure it should work on OBDI cars. You might have to make a few minor changes.

One of the last pieces of the auto/manual swap puzzle is getting the DME to work like a 5 speed car and to get the Auto Tranny Warning Light to go out. Someone posted directions on how to recode the DME and EWS modules. That makes the car run like a 5 speed car but it doesn't get rid of the Warning Light. Most people just remove the bulb but I wanted a better solution.

I stole part of these instructions from an earlier post in the E36 Auto/Manual Tranny Swap thread. I changed it slightly to reflect my personal way of doing this.

I found that all of your cars information including what tranny you have and what options you have are stored in 3 codes. The GM code has basic info like body style, engine etc. The SA code has all your options like Fully Auto Top, Cruise Control, Heated Seats etc, The VN code has more info that isn't important here. These codes are stored in several modules but its initially stored in the Instrument Cluster (KOMBI). From there BMW copies it to the other modules that use it. This is important because you can change the codes in individual modules and the others remain unaffected or you can change it in the cluster and all the other modules will be recoded with the same info. Its stored in 2 places in the cluster...an EEPROM chip and the Coding Plug. BMW stored it in two places as a safety measure so you always have a backup. Its very unlikely your cluster and coding plug will both die at the same time. In E36's... Auto or Manual tranny is part of the GM code. In other cars its part of the SA code. It's important to note that OBDI cars do NOT have a coding plug in the cluster. I haven't done enough research to know where else these codes are initially stored in OBDI cars.

After doing some research I found if you change the GM code in the cluster it will turn off the warning light and recode all the other modules.

To fix this, you need to change the GM code stored in KOMBI; this is done through comparing a value from the E36ZST.000 file in NCS Expert’s Daten Folder with your current GM code. This is simpler than it sounds.

Steps:
1) Find your current GM code from DIS; this is located in programming under ZCS/FA Coding – Choose Print Current Values. Answer the questions provided and note down all three codes when you get them. (GM, SA & VM will be displayed).

Since DIS takes a while to boot up you can find the same info in INPA. Open INPA and choose your model. Then under the BODY heading choose Electronic Vehicle Imobilization (EWS). Open that and fromthe sub headings choose CODING. You'll see your VIN followed by 3 numbers. C1=GM code, C2=SA code,C3=VN code.

2) Open the following file in notepad C:\NCSEXPER\DATEN\E36\E36ZST.000
Scroll down until you start to see something like this:

BF82 11820000 00000000000000D0 0000022116 1 COUP M52B25 AUT RL BASIS //Coup‚ 323iA RL M52
H BF83 V0194 11830000 0000000000000000 0000000000 1 COUP M52B25 AUT LL US //Coup‚ 323iA US M52
BF83 11830000 00004000000080D0 0000022116 1 COUP M52B25 AUT LL US //Coup‚ 323iA US M52
H BF91 V0993 11910000 0000000000008490 0000000014 1 COUP S50B30 MAN LL BASIS //Coup‚ M3 LL S50
BF91 11910000 0000000000008490 0000002116 1 COUP S50B30 MAN LL BASIS //Coup‚ M3 LL S50
H BF92 V0993 11920000 0000000000008490 0000000014 1 COUP S50B30 MAN RL BASIS //Coup‚ M3 RL S50

Notice this is for a coupe. You'll see everything listed, Limo, Cabrio, Touring etc...Just find yours.
All NON US cars are listed as "BASIS".

3) Find the line with your model, engine, old transmission and US/Euro information. You will see a 8
character value on the left of the large number of 0’s that will look something like mine 14F30000.
(The non-0 parts of this number should match the start of your GM code.)

4) Locate the same car but in manual, you will see the value above is slightly different, for an e36
328-cabrio manual the value is 14E30000. Note this down; this will be the base for your new GM code.

5) Now match your new GM code found in the last step with your current GM code provided by DIS but
ignoring the last digit, which is only a checksum value. For example:
Old GM code from DIS: 14F30000K
I found the manual GM base code to be 14E30000. My new GM code will be 14E30000 (and we will work out the last digit in the next step).

6) Open NCS Expert. (My version is in English)
Click File > Load Profil
Choose Expertmode
Press the first button – FG/ZCS/FA
Press the first button again – ZCS eingeben
Choose your model (e36)
Insert your VIN, Tick checksum and Press OK
Enter your new GM (without the last digit) (Eg: 14F30000)
Enter your current SA (without the last digit) (Eg: 0000482001228491)
Enter your current VN (without the last digit) (Eg: 0004BFA936)
Tick checksum and press OK.

Just a quick note on entering these numbers. You may see your vin listed with an extra digit at the end. Mine was listed with a Y at the end. Disregard that extra digit and tick "check sum" when you enter the vin.
You may get an error saying Vin Invalid or SA invalid or VN invalid..If you do you may have to leave the last 2 digits off when you enter it. I had to leave the last two off of either my SA or my VN. I cant remember which one.

7) Now in the top part of the display you will be provided with your new GM including your last character, which is the checksum value (mine was 14E30000H).

8) Back in DIS choose Coding/Programming
Choose ZCS/FA Coding
Choose Recoding
Select your series
Select Recoding
Select KOMBI
KOMBI Selected? choose YES
Continue pressing the green arrow till you get to CHASSIS #
Change? NO
The next screen will ask if you want to change your GM,SA,VN
Choose YES
Use the buttons on the right to enter your new GM Code including the zeros at the beginning and the new Checksum Digit at the end.
When SA and VN are displayed just choose YES and it will leave them the same.
Now all three will be displayed.
Indication Correct? choose YES if they are correct.
Start Auto Coding? Choose YES
DIS will now auto program every module that uses those three codes. When its done the Auto TrannyWarning Light will be gone and your DME will now be programed and act as if it was from a car that was originally a 5 speed.

When its done turn off the ignition for 10 seconds then enjoy your new manual tranny.

[dVeLoPe]

ii currently own a 1992 bmw 318is obd1 clean car but has minor frame rail damage.
i also recently purchased a 1997 obd2 m3 sedan with 100k miles...

looking for some advice as to what i should do

A: swap everything i possibly can into my 318is and or sell off the rest of the parts/shell
B: swap my 5 speed getrag into the m3 if its possible

m3 is super clean but im torn because i love the coupe chassis over sedan

[turge]

ii currently own a 1992 bmw 318is obd1 clean car but has minor frame rail damage.
i also recently purchased a 1997 obd2 m3 sedan with 100k miles...

looking for some advice as to what i should do

A: swap everything i possibly can into my 318is and or sell off the rest of the parts/shell
B: swap my 5 speed getrag into the m3 if its possible

m3 is super clean but im torn because i love the coupe chassis over sedan

Keep the M3 and find a six speed.

[240rr]

I went the other day to get my car inspected post swap. 1996 328i. This is in Houston, TX where they do safety as well as Emissions testing. I was failed due to 3 transmissions codes due to malfunctioning transmission components. I explained to them that the car had an auto to manual swap. There is nothing the shop can do.

I never had a check engine light for those codes. I imagine I would have a trans light if I had the bulb in.

Since the failure I removed the eeprom from the trans computer and reconnected the trans computer. I never got a CEL for this either. I then checked errors in INPA for the DME and saw none. I cleared them anyway and erased all my adaptions.

Will I pass inspection now? I realize i may still have a trans error but since it is unrelated to physical drivetrain components maybe i pass? Anyone familiar with TX.

[SamGrant951]

I just bought an 97 M3 auto Ill be swapping an E46 M3 trans into. Can I use the Rogue e46 m3 octane SSK or will I need a different linkage? Thanks!

[joncunanan]

so i want to tackle this since i am getting some weird noises coming from what i think is the driveshaft and my automatic sometimes has no "go" from a cold start and i need to smash the gas pedal to really get going. i called up bavarian auto recycling and i asked for a quote. my car is a 92 325i automatic obd1 and i asked them for the parts needed for a swap and i was quoted 1145 after tax and shipping and they sent me pics. can you tell me if there is anything else i will need, they said its complete, but i trust this forum more, and i was wondering if there are more parts needed and if so, where can i get them for at the best price. thanks in advance.

im not mechanically savvy but this looks like i still need the clutch master cylinder, the soft and hard lines, guibo, shifter assembly, bunch of bolts, and sorry for being a total newb but i cant tell but is the 2nd to last pic the clutch kit (clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and clutch alignment tool all in one assembled piece?) don't i also need a flywheel? i'm sure there are a bunch of other misc parts i'm missing.

ive gone through all 107 pages of this thread and got a sound idea of what to do thank to all that contirbuted, but i just want to do my homework as everyone suggests here. a local shop offered 2100 for parts (used) and labor with a 3.15 open diff, but i heard you can source your own parts and do your own labor for around 1k total and i would love to save that $1000 and spend it on some good tools and some experience.

[flyfishvt]

I don't see the hard line or soft line or the shift linkage or the flex disk or the clutch alignment tool or the throw out bearing or pilot bearing, no clutch fork, no master cylinder, missing the foam surround and leather shift boot

It's also a good idea to change your rear main seal while you're in there.

[joncunanan]

that's what i thought too. i researched some more and found a local guy that was selling a kit off a 95 325i. this is what i got:



getrag transmission
flywheel
flywheel bolts x 8
pressure plate bolts x 6 (different sizes though, so might get new ones)
clutch disc
clutch fork with throw out bearing (that thing sitting in the clutch fork?)
transmission crossmember
transmission mount enforcers
shifter assembly with rubber boot and that lever pin slide thing
pedal assembly with the clutch master cylinder on it already with the 5 mounting bolts
clutch slave cylinder with softline but hardline to clutch master cylinder is cut
guibo flex disc
guibo flex disc bolts/nuts/washers x 6
driveshaft with center support bearing and 4 bolt flange to diff with its 4 nuts at the end
those bolts with the torx heads i'm assuming are the bellhousing bolts at the bottom of the pic

questions:
1) did i identify the parts listed above right?
2) are the mounting bolts for the crossmember resuable from automatic to manual?
3) can i reuse the torx bolts from when i remove my auto trans or use the ones at the bottom of the pic?
4) those bolts next to the pressure plate should all be the same length right? should i get new ones?
5) should i be worried that there was oil leaking from that black cap on the side of the transmission? i think it was laying on its side when it was in my trunk when i brought it home.
6) anything else i missed other than the shift leather boot, shift knob, pilot bearing and new clutch hardline, rear seal (is this the same as the crankshaft seal or flywheel seal)?

once again, thanks for the help and advice.

[flyfishvt]

Sounds like you've got it all identified correctly. Those pressure plate bolts should all be Allen bolts and they should all be the same size. Better get new ones. The rear main seal is the rear crank shaft seal. All those tranny bolts can get reused. The ones from your auto tranny should fit but it's nice to have a couple spares. The oil leaking is probably normal. There is a vent on the top of the tranny. It has a small flip cap on it. If the tranny was on its side then fluid defiantly would have leaked out.

I don't see a differential on that list. If you're buying one separately you should consider springing for a 3.15lsd or a 3.23lsd. You won't regret it they run around $350. When you replace that hard line look around for a flexible stainless line. One of the members bought one. It will save you a lot of time and frustration. I've seen people spend half a say trying to fish the hard line into place.

You're doing great.

[joncunanan]

Sounds like you've got it all identified correctly. Those pressure plate bolts should all be Allen bolts and they should all be the same size. Better get new ones. The rear main seal is the rear crank shaft seal. All those tranny bolts can get reused. The ones from your auto tranny should fit but it's nice to have a couple spares. The oil leaking is probably normal. There is a vent on the top of the tranny. It has a small flip cap on it. If the tranny was on its side then fluid defiantly would have leaked out.

I don't see a differential on that list. If you're buying one separately you should consider springing for a 3.15lsd or a 3.23lsd. You won't regret it they run around $350. When you replace that hard line look around for a flexible stainless line. One of the members bought one. It will save you a lot of time and frustration. I've seen people spend half a say trying to fish the hard line into place.

You're doing great.

Thanks flyfishvt for the quick response, yeah it's like a black cylinder flip cap. That's a relief to know that's normal. As far as the duff goes, I would be happy with a 3.15 open diff, led would be nice but trying to keep the costs low. The guy who sold me the kit is trying to find me a diff that I can trade my 3.91 for. Bmrparts.com quoted me 350 shipped for an open diff and I think 500 for a 3.15 lsd. The shipping alone is like $100. I'll just be patient and wait for a good opportunity. I hope to get started in the next few days.

[flyfishvt]

3.15 open is $100-200 all day. Depending on mileage. Be patient. Deals are out there. The las 2 3.15 LSD's I bought I paid $275 for.

[joncunanan]

3.15 open is $100-200 all day. Depending on mileage. Be patient. Deals are out there. The las 2 3.15 LSD's I bought I paid $275 for.

damn really?!? can you tell me where to get one i'll order it right now if i can get one for $100-$200.

for the rear crankfshaft seal, i checked on pelicanparts.com and they have 2 versions, they are both 90x110x12 but one of them says "this new style does not have a tension spring." which one do i need? here is the link for reference: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/..._pg1.htm#item3

also i might just go ahead and get a new clutch/pressure plate kit. i was looking at exedy and sachs since they are similar in price, either one better than the other?

[joncunanan]

Not sure what happened to my last post I tried to reply but,

If you know where I can get a 3.15 open diff at that price, please tell me where and I can order asap. Also I was looking for a rear seal on pelican parts and found 2 versions, one says it doesn't have a tension spring. Which one do I need? I'm also considering replacing the clutch/pressure plate with Exedy or Sachs since they are both around the same cost. Which is preferred?

[flyfishvt]

I don't know where to get a dif at that price right now. I buy stuff like that from fellow forum members who live bear me. I keep my eyes open for good deals. All I'm saying is that price is pretty much the going price for a 3.15 open dif. Certainly the high side of that range I posted is a fair price you can expect to pay. Unless the dif has been reconditioned. Then you pay more.

You want the rear main seal with the spring

Before you replace the clutch kit you should look at the condition of the one that's included. It might be just fine. Sachs is OEM. I would never install a used throw out bearing. Unless I knew exactly how old it was and where it was purchased. Throw out bearings are cheap piece if mind. It's much more likely that the throw out bearing will fail before the clutch does.

[joncunanan]

Thanks flyfishvt, i ordered a stainless line and gonna place the order for the $10 rear seal with spring from pelicanparts tonight.

I took some pics of the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel and I am not knowledgeable enough to determine if they are reusable or not. The guy I bought it off showed me that they were in decent shape and showed me how to sand them down and clean them, pics show he sanded the flywheel a little bit. what do you think?

here are some hi-res pics i snapped:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ap/clutch1.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...ap/clutch2.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...sureplate1.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...sureplate2.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../flywheel1.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../flywheel2.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../flywheel3.jpg
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/.../flywheel4.jpg

[m3j0n]

what do you have to do prior to removing the auto tranny so there are no issues after the swap? isn't there a neutral safety switch or something that needs to be adjusted? do you just remove the automatic tranny computer from the car? how do you prevent the car from throwing any transmission codes when doing the swap (for inspection reasons)?

[flyfishvt]

Have you read any of this thread?

[m3j0n]

Have you read any of this thread?

you mean all 107 pages of it?.. no...I didn't see it in any of the 20 pages I read. sorry to annoy you by asking the questions.

[flyfishvt]

I didn't say I was annoyed. I asked a valid question. We get countless people who don't bother to read a single page. If you're on a laptop the answers to every possible question is on pages 80-107. Yes I've read all 107 but when I started there were only 93.

No special things to do just drain and pull the auto tyranny.
The wires going to the neutral safety switch will eventually get cut and joined together.
Neutral safety is in the auto shifter console. That entire console gets removed.
Check engine light will come on when you first do the swap. Instructions for turning it off are on 80-107.
Tranny wArming light will come on when you do the swap. Obd I cars just pull the bulb. OBDII cars require recoding.
Tranny computer must be left in. The abs is wired through it.

[spngr311]

I didn't have any luck with using the aforementioned procedure for the check engine light. I ended up ordering another ecu off of eBay and it worked.