Last edited by casperlynn; 02-06-2014 at 03:28 AM.
S52, AA C38-81 stage 2 aftercooled supercharger (14 PSI), Meth injection, Gatorback belts, Provent 200 oil separator, ARP studs, VAC MLS head gasket, SAP delete, ASC delete, TB heating delete, CCV delete, post cat O2 sensors delete, vanos mechanical jam delete, M50 intake mani, Mishimoto radiator, 155f thermostat, Stewart pump, euro diesal fan, CES overflow tank, AEM digital gauges, Bavarian coils, BMP tuned headers, Magnaflow true duals exhaust, E60 530i ZF manual 6 speed, UUC EVO 3 shifter, stage 2 E46 UUC clutch with Fidanza FW, M3 front brakes/spindles, E46 328i rear brakes, adjustable rear camber arms, adjustable camber plates on Yellow DPS coil-overs, M3 crossbrace, Staggered 255/45Z and 235/40Z BF Goodrich G-Force Sport 2's on 17's, 3.91 LSD, MM aluminum underpanel, Z3 steering rack, UUC sways.
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@casperlynn, I'm glad you posted this. I've been trying to collect info on the 330/530/Z4 trans swap in this thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...0-6-speed-swap
If you have anything you think you can add I'd appreciate it.
I was planning to use the complete 530 clutch setup (flywheel, disc, pressure plate) but now I'm second guessing that. Is the dual mass flywheel currently in the car you original M3 flywheel or one that came with the 530 trans?
Jeff | '94 BMW Alpina B3 | '06 BMW 325XI Wagon
Jeff, it was an e36 flywheel, e46 tranny and clutch. UUC talked me out of retaining the dual mass and went with a Fidanza light weight.
Last edited by casperlynn; 02-14-2014 at 09:52 PM.
S52, AA C38-81 stage 2 aftercooled supercharger (14 PSI), Meth injection, Gatorback belts, Provent 200 oil separator, ARP studs, VAC MLS head gasket, SAP delete, ASC delete, TB heating delete, CCV delete, post cat O2 sensors delete, vanos mechanical jam delete, M50 intake mani, Mishimoto radiator, 155f thermostat, Stewart pump, euro diesal fan, CES overflow tank, AEM digital gauges, Bavarian coils, BMP tuned headers, Magnaflow true duals exhaust, E60 530i ZF manual 6 speed, UUC EVO 3 shifter, stage 2 E46 UUC clutch with Fidanza FW, M3 front brakes/spindles, E46 328i rear brakes, adjustable rear camber arms, adjustable camber plates on Yellow DPS coil-overs, M3 crossbrace, Staggered 255/45Z and 235/40Z BF Goodrich G-Force Sport 2's on 17's, 3.91 LSD, MM aluminum underpanel, Z3 steering rack, UUC sways.
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Small issue, maybe one of you guys had it before... Car is a 1995 S50 btw.
Finished my auto-manual swap on my track car, went to go start it for the first time since November last night and it wouldn't idle, at all. It would sound loopy like 3 cylinders are firing, for a loop or two then die. If I hold the gas, it'll rev up then sound like it's misfiring then rev up, sound like a misfire then shut off.
Any one ever experience this?
In swapping a 97 m3 manual tranny into a 93 325i automatic, are the mounting bolts that gold the tranny to the motor the same? Theyre too short idk if i have the bolts mixed or something but they wont fit
Fixed that issue. Now my issue is that none of the cluster items are working. It lights up but fuel gauge, tach, coolant are not moving.
The turn signal indicators work, CEL is lit up, etc. Just none of the needs are moving.
Last edited by Inflame; 03-02-2014 at 03:07 PM.
This was an excellent post and very helpful. I was able to use this procedure and get the tranny light to go off on my dash. However, the CEL still comes up for CAN Bus time out. When I ran NCS, it spit out two updated numbers. The GM code, which I updated, and a new SA code with a new checksum digit. Would changing that number cause the CEL to go out? Any help would be appreciated. Is there somewhere else I need to code to get the DME to recognize that it is a manual?
Did you clear the code then clear engine adaptations then clear tranny adaptations then pull the chip from the tranny computer?
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
I pulled the chip, then cleared the code then cleared the engine adaptations. Should I put the chip back do the computer stuff then take it back out?
Last edited by spngr311; 03-03-2014 at 03:12 PM.
Insert the chip
Clear dme codes
Clear dme adaptations
Clear tranny computer adaptations
Turn off ignition
Remove chip
Run the car to insure CEL doesn't return
If it returns try again (took me 3 tries to get it)
Save that chip. Do not throw it out in case you need it down the road
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Where do I clear the tranny adaptations?
What are you using to clear the engine adaptations?
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
INPA. I can also use DIS if I need to.
Use INPA and connect to the tranny computer
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Okay, thanks. I'll give that a shot tonight!
I gave it a shot last night. This is the sequence I did:
-Removed the battery
-Put the chip back in
-Put the car back on the battery
-Cleared the DME Codes
-Cleared the DME adaptations
-Cleared the transmission adaptations
-Removed the battery
-Removed the chip
-Connected the battery
-Started the car (No CEL)
-Restarted the car (CEL returned)
-Repeated this process 4 times, same results.
Did I screw something up there? It's the same CAN bus error. I notice that it is always present in INPA when the chip is removed from the computer.
Don't remove the battery. I never said remove the battery. Try clearing adaptations then codes. It took a couple times for me
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Ah, that is probably where I screwed up. Just so used to taking that precaution when removing the ecu or similar hardware.
I have done a 5 speed conversion, supercharger and had the DME remapped with a MANUAL map. The DME is still an AUTO I have it where the car thinks its in neutral all the time. I want to do it the right way and flash it to a MANUAL. My question is, when I flash it will it erase me supercharger tune?
There is a very good chance that will happen. Someone who knows what they are doing could make sure it doesn't happen. I wouldn't take that chance. You spent lots of cash for that tune. There is no benefit to what you want to do. The rest of the car is still an auto tranny car. All the wiring is still for an auto tranny.
Did you wire up a clutch pedal switch?
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
I did not, but I installed a hidden switch instead. If the switch is not active the car doesn't trigger the neutral light and will not start. All I did was figured out what wires to squeeze together on the auto transmission gear selector box.
So when flashing the manual DME number it will also flash all the parameters from the daten files and reset the DME to OEM state?
Are you talking about flashing or recoding? You can safely recode it so it thinks its from a 5 speed car. Flashing the DME is totally different. Flashing replaces the entire original software. You don't want to do that. I outlined a procedure to recode it. Look back through the last 2 or 3 pages. I just have to repeat that there is no real benefit to doing this unless your auto tranny warning light is on and you want to turn it off.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Yes my Trans/ASC light is on, I thought I would have to flash the DME with the manual # first then recode following your instructions. But from my understanding I only have to recode per your instructions and then the Auto DME chip removal sequence like you suggested above then. Thanks for your help!!
Any ideas about my cluster issue? Can someone snap a picture of the wiring behind their cluster?
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