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Thread: The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

  1. #1
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    The Official Auto-to-Manual Transmission Swap Thread

    You read it correctly! This is going to be the "official" thread with any and all information needed for this swap.

    So if you've done it or know about it, please chime in. I'll update this first post with all the new and relevant information. If any of this info is wrong, please let me know what I need to change.

    Also, how long should it take in labor hours? I've been quoted a max of four, another 10-12, and then 20 hours! At $65/hr that's getting up there...

    Parts List (So far...with cheapest prices I've found)
    Key: BZ-Bimmerzone Z-Zionsville
    manual transmission (used prices vary)
    driveshaft (manual tranny specific) (Z- $195 used)
    master/slave cylinders (BZ-$96.71; $48.63)
    lines needed between manual and slave cylinders
    linkage parts (specifics anyone?)
    clutch pedal/new pedal cluster
    shift knob/shifter
    clutch kit (includes what? there are two different types, one w/ A/C and one w/o A/C?)
    flywheel
    drive shaft bearing ? (mentioned in another thread)
    --- BZ has a Driveshaft Bushing for $8.46 --- same thing?
    rear main seal? (mentioned in another thread)
    differential? (if so, what differential do I need?)

    Thanks!
    Last edited by TheBestCow; 03-03-2003 at 08:10 PM.
    Kevin
    1978 Black 320i [July 28, 2007-Present]
    2003 Audi A4 Avant [2012-Present]
    2004 Accord: [2006-2012]
    1995 Boston Green 318is: [2001-2006]
    Knoxville, TN

  2. #2
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    Turbo E36
    I got all for it shipped to my house 1600 shipped all from a 98 m3 tranny, with the 3:23 diff

    Manual Transmission

    Transmission cross-member

    Clutch

    Flywheel

    Pressure plate, throw out bearing etc

    Clutch Master cylinder

    Slave cylinder

    All Hydraulic lines from clutch master cylinder to the slave cylinder.

    About a 10 inch hose from the brake reservoir to the clutch cylinder (you know, the braided hose type that the brake fluid reservoir already uses).

    Clutch Fork

    The selecting rod stabilizing sleeve. It is a little bushing, wrapped in a metal bracket that mounts the end of the top shift linkage to the frame that stabilizes it.

    Shifter linkage

    Shifter shaft

    The foam in the boot and the rubber assemblies

    Pedal Box-clutch pedal cluster.. The brake and clutch arms.

    Drive shaft

    3:23 Differential

    Leather shift Boot

    Shift Knob
    This is my list.
    Last edited by shogun; 01-24-2016 at 05:35 AM.

  3. #3
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    What is a TOB?

    Wow that's a great list!

    Did you get the Zionsville kit?
    Kevin
    1978 Black 320i [July 28, 2007-Present]
    2003 Audi A4 Avant [2012-Present]
    2004 Accord: [2006-2012]
    1995 Boston Green 318is: [2001-2006]
    Knoxville, TN

  4. #4
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    No, a guy upstate, more are avaiable, but the list is what I have come up wiith from all my hard research, and now easy for all u guys.. Oh, MUST GIVE Credit to Kelly Sean from DTM, sorry if I spelled out his name incorrectly. fopr the selecting rod sleeve. I should recieve my tranny parts on WED, Ill keep u guys posted, and If all is well, then I will release the name.

  5. #5
    v.b.'s Avatar
    v.b. is offline GoD, pls stop this bitch!
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    Originally posted by buttuh
    Good thread. I might want to do this as well to my '94 325i since my auto tranny is becoming a nightmare
    : you have an auto...ur must be kidding jkjk

    20 hours @65/hr....1300 + 1600 parts...
    close to 3000...okay, let's give it extra $500 to make everything
    goes alrite...so let's say $3500 to do the conversion...

    oh man, it is expensive...

  6. #6
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    Originally posted by v.b.
    : you have an auto...ur must be kidding jkjk

    20 hours @65/hr....1300 + 1600 parts...
    close to 3000...okay, let's give it extra $500 to make everything
    goes alrite...so let's say $3500 to do the conversion...

    oh man, it is expensive...
    Whats up v.b. Dont forget, Include a new UUC LTWflywheel and e34 M5 Clutch, and some good redline fluid

  7. #7
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    Here is a quick excel spreadsheet of parts and prices and websites I put together. I don't know what I left off. And don't have time to look at it right now. But here ya go, and I was quoted 30 Hours of labor at $60 an hour. = [$1800]

    Part Website Price
    Used Manual Tranny http://www.bmrparts.com/ $1,170
    UUC LTWFW http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ $499
    AA Lev. I SSK http://activeautowerke.com/ $110
    Sachs Clutch Kit http://bimmerparts.com/ $241.40
    Clutch Pivot Pin http://bimmerparts.com/ $1.34
    Release Bearing http://bimmerparts.com/ $30.81
    Release Arm http://bimmerparts.com/ $9.41
    Clutch Hose http://bimmerparts.com/ $5.45
    Clutch Master Cylinder http://bimmerparts.com/ $96.50
    Clutch Slave Cylinder http://bimmerparts.com/ $36.72
    Pilot Bearing http://bimmerparts.com/ $10.96
    UUC Transmission Mount/Enforcer Package http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ $70.00
    Driveshaft (comes with new guibo and center support bearing) Misc quote from a bimmer tech $500
    Clutch Arm Bushings (UUC) http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ $20.00
    UUC Clutch Stop http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/ $20.00





    GRAND TOTAL: $2,822

  8. #8
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    The Bavarian Falcon
    It's a ten hour job, not twenty. R&R on an auto trans is 7.5, add another 2.5 for the conversion bits. $700-$1000 depending on your shop, and you CAN do the conversion yourself with a lift or a good set of ramps and jacks, it's not detail work, just grunt work.

    I came THIS close to buying a Zionsville kit before I went ahead and bought an entire wrecked M3 for the complete engine/tranny swap, and I was going to do the work myself.

    Now swapping an engine from one car to another, that's beyond what my tools and space will allow, so I'm having that done in a shop.
    93 325is - total M3 conversion and more - Dinan SC kit - RMS aftercooler and tuning - 395rwhp on 91 octane.
    "....She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself." -Han Solo

    CarDomain page

  9. #9
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    20 hours...

    I can change a clutch on a manual M3 in less than 2 hours. If I have help I can do in just over an hour.... I know BMW quotes 8 hours or so the replace one, but 20 hours... With the right tools(which every shop has, or should have) this should not even be a 10 hour job. I cannot justify how long it takes to change the pedals, and install the lines but I believe that can take 2.5 hours.
    Just food for thought.
    Chris
    Just sold My 350z, looking for another E36 M3

    2006 Kaw. ZX14

  10. #10
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    I have dismantled an entire M3 before so I know it's not all that difficult. I agree that with the right tools/lift/etc it should not take 20-30 hours of labor to do the swap.

  11. #11
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    Okay, here's what I've come up with so far:
    BZ: BimmerZone
    Transmission Swap Parts List:
    Transmission - $250
    UUC TME - $70+shipping from UUC
    UUC SSK - $200+shipping from UUC
    Driveshaft - w/ tranny
    3.45 differential - w/ tranny
    clutch - w/ tranny
    flywheel - w/ tranny
    master clutch cylinder - $96.71 (BZ)
    slave clutch cylinder - $48.63 (BZ)
    lines between two - ? get from junkyard
    linkage - ? get from junkyard
    pedal set - ? get from junkyard
    shift knob - $14.49 (BZ)
    drive shaft bearing/bushing - $8.46 (BZ)
    drive shaft support with bearing - $31.65 (BZ)
    clutch hose (to reservoir) - $5.31 (BZ)
    clutch pivot pin - $1.35
    release bearing - $32.63 (BZ)
    clutch release arm - $9.81 (BZ)
    pilot bearing - $11.16 (BZ)
    clutch arm bushings - ??

    Anything else? Look good?
    Kevin
    1978 Black 320i [July 28, 2007-Present]
    2003 Audi A4 Avant [2012-Present]
    2004 Accord: [2006-2012]
    1995 Boston Green 318is: [2001-2006]
    Knoxville, TN

  12. #12
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    wouldn't the interior modification take time?

    i was qouted at about 4000~4500$..... i have a 5 series but that is what they said. =\ god damn it i wish there were more 535i's with 5speed in this world!!!

  13. #13
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    Interior modification?

    Take out auto-shifter console, replace with shifter boot.
    Remove auto-pedals, replace with manual pedals.

    Ta-da! No more interior modification needed.
    Kevin
    1978 Black 320i [July 28, 2007-Present]
    2003 Audi A4 Avant [2012-Present]
    2004 Accord: [2006-2012]
    1995 Boston Green 318is: [2001-2006]
    Knoxville, TN

  14. #14
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    RIP:'93 325i
    With all the acronyms, I'm not sure whether software was covered.
    What about the automatic's Transmission Control Module (TCM)? What do you do with that?
    3rd Infantry Division, United States Army

    "Rock of the Marne!"

  15. #15
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    Good question, RacermeX. I have no idea.

    UUC TME = Tranny Mount Enforcers
    UUC SSK = Short Shift Kit

    Sorry for the confusion
    Kevin
    1978 Black 320i [July 28, 2007-Present]
    2003 Audi A4 Avant [2012-Present]
    2004 Accord: [2006-2012]
    1995 Boston Green 318is: [2001-2006]
    Knoxville, TN

  16. #16
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    Ok, so since this is the official swap section..... here is my progress:

    Took out exhaust system, and heat shields.
    Took out the 2 heat shields.
    took out the driveshaft, which is shorter than the manual one, and took out the 3.91 diff.

    Put in the 98 m3 3.23 diff, and reconnected the axels.
    Thats it so far, I will keep u posted, BTW I have 2 very good friends helping me alnog with this process.
    for all who is concerning about the parts list, the clutch fly and TOB and pilot bearing pressure plate, dont bother to get it with your manual kit. When it is out might as well get new parts here, I got the UUC stage 2 fly and M5 clutch.
    Shifter make sure u get it, or just buy the RE SSK, it comes with everything complete. Just make sure that you get the carrier bushing. the rubber w/ the metal around it, that goes at the end of the carrier, and holds into the body.
    On my 95 325, the part that holds the bushing to the car is there already, and there is a rubber boot covering the hole, so everything is there already. Thats it, and it is not hard so far.....
    ****Also, you do not need a new master cylinder that is in the engine bay. Your auto already has the line, but it is pluged, all you have to do is tap into it, take a look at urs, on the drivers side of the plastic master cylinder, towards the back, there is a extended peice that is pluged.
    This is what I got new:
    RE SSK octane kit
    RE Tranny mounts
    UUC stage 2 ltw flywheel
    M5 clutch kit
    red line fluids
    acs shift knob....

  17. #17
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    bimmuh
    I'm still debating myself wether to go S/C or tranny swap.. tranny swap costs about half... but then again S/C is just bolt on.. it's the "if it ain't broke, don't fit it" theory behind that....

    anyway...

    I got quoted like 12-14 hours at $65 at some ///M racing specialists shop.. then I asked a different guy at the same shop.. he changed it to 12-14 hours with $??/hr.... he says they'd charge a special rate since it's a "special" service.. but they have done it before on e30s... but it's a pain on the e36's because of the software/wiring... he said mechanical part is a cinch... but the electrical part is what takes the longest and is the majority of the cost... I haven't asked the place I take my car for regular service cause I don't think they'll do it.. but.. you never know...

    and i got a quote from Zionesville for tranny swap kit $1595 without differential... the parts are used btw... they don't put together kits with new parts...
    Don't like my driving? Get off the sidewalk!

  18. #18
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    I'll be interested to know how long (hours) your swap takes KLEAR. Seems to be a big difference of opinions on this. I was quoted around 30 hours @ $60/hour.

  19. #19
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    I'd like to get more information on the electrical/computer difficulties/switches involved...
    Kevin
    1978 Black 320i [July 28, 2007-Present]
    2003 Audi A4 Avant [2012-Present]
    2004 Accord: [2006-2012]
    1995 Boston Green 318is: [2001-2006]
    Knoxville, TN

  20. #20
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    I second that.
    Originally posted by TheBestCow
    I'd like to get more information on the electrical/computer difficulties/switches involved...

  21. #21
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    Originally posted by KLEAR

    ****Also, you do not need a new master cylinder that is in the engine bay. Your auto already has the line, but it is pluged, all you have to do is tap into it, take a look at urs, on the drivers side of the plastic master cylinder, towards the back, there is a extended peice that is pluged.
    Hey, my name is Joe :, Im new to BF, but I frequent DTM.
    I am in the middle of this swap on my 97 328is (should finish tonight!!!).
    Here's what I have to say:

    -You DO need a new master cylinder, it goes between the clutch pedal and the firewall (if you need one, I have an extra).

    -You do not need to remove the mount for the pedals, you WILL however, need a clutch pedal and a brake pedal, but they slide off rather easily.

    -Getting a different Diff is not a make-or-break deal. I chose to stay with my stock differential so I can have better acceleration. My top speed is not affected substancially, because does the Auto have a significantly larger overdrive than the manual? no. Im basically where I was when I left off as far as top speed goes.
    I would not get a different diff without getting one with limited slip, there are much better ways to waste your time!

    - You can get your driveshaft lengthened, or you can get a new/used driveshaft. new ones are $600+ from the $tealer, and $250 from a reputable used wrecking yard... if you can find one. I had mine lengthened by the most reputable shop in my area, and it cost me just shy of $200. That included rebalancing!

    thats it for now, anyone done this on and OBDII car?

    Hope this helps!
    Joe

  22. #22
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    Joe - please let us know how it goes! According to DeezBMW, in a PM he sent me, you have to "you have to trick the neutral safetey switch to get it to start in the end". Do you know anything about this?

    I'll probably end up getting a used differential and driveshaft, so I can stay in 'stock' classes whenever I hit club racing (5-10 years )
    Kevin
    1978 Black 320i [July 28, 2007-Present]
    2003 Audi A4 Avant [2012-Present]
    2004 Accord: [2006-2012]
    1995 Boston Green 318is: [2001-2006]
    Knoxville, TN

  23. #23
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    Originally posted by funkmasta
    Hey, my name is Joe :, Im new to BF, but I frequent DTM.
    I am in the middle of this swap on my 97 328is (should finish tonight!!!).
    Here's what I have to say:

    -You DO need a new master cylinder, it goes between the clutch pedal and the firewall (if you need one, I have an extra).

    -You do not need to remove the mount for the pedals, you WILL however, need a clutch pedal and a brake pedal, but they slide off rather easily.

    -Getting a different Diff is not a make-or-break deal. I chose to stay with my stock differential so I can have better acceleration. My top speed is not affected substancially, because does the Auto have a significantly larger overdrive than the manual? no. Im basically where I was when I left off as far as top speed goes.
    I would not get a different diff without getting one with limited slip, there are much better ways to waste your time!

    - You can get your driveshaft lengthened, or you can get a new/used driveshaft. new ones are $600+ from the $tealer, and $250 from a reputable used wrecking yard... if you can find one. I had mine lengthened by the most reputable shop in my area, and it cost me just shy of $200. That included rebalancing!

    thats it for now, anyone done this on and OBDII car?

    Hope this helps!
    Joe
    Dude, the master BRAKE cylinder is pre tapped, u dont have to get a new one. I am almost done too....., and what u r talking about is the clutch master cylinder.

  24. #24
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    funkmasta, ur 328 uses a different diff than 325's. 325 has a 3.91 diff, and one should get the auto M3 diff, off a 97-98 or so.

  25. #25
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    Originally posted by KLEAR
    Dude, the master BRAKE cylinder is pre tapped, u dont have to get a new one. I am almost done too....., and what u r talking about is the clutch master cylinder.
    Right.
    They share a *reservoir*, but the master cylinders are very much different things! are you planning on using the brake pedal to engage/disengage the clutch?

    The clutch pedal is connected to a seperate hydraulic system that engages/disengages the clutch. however, it shares a reservior with the brake master cylinder. The clutch master cylinder mounts between the clutch pedal and the firewall, and has two hoses. One hose goes to the reservoir @ the brake master cylinder, and the other hose goes to the slave cylinder @ the clutch.

    hope this helps!
    Joe

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