While searching for the correct spark plug for the S54 motor, I noticed several unanswered requests for a spark plug DIY. A simple DIY, but sometimes pics and knowing you have the necessary tools makes the job easier.
Parts:
Spark plugs: NGK DCPR8EIX (6) - $7 each
(several other plugs available - correct heat range is 8)
Tools:
10mm wrench or hex socket
5/8 spark plug socket with 6" extension
1st remove 6 cover hold-down bolts (10mm).
Remove oil filler cover.
Disconnect vent hose (pinch sides together and pull up) then swing aside.
Last edited by willscam; 07-29-2007 at 03:41 PM.
Here is what it should look like after oil cover, bolts, and hose removed.
This is what it looks like with plastic cover removed. The next step is to unclip and move aside the knock sensor harness loom (rectangular plastic piece towards bottom of pic).
The harness loom attaches to two little brackets with these horse-shoe shaped (fragile) plastic pieces. Gently squeeze and pull. Picture below is after detachment.
Last edited by willscam; 07-29-2007 at 03:43 PM.
Now it's time to work on those pesky coils. Pull up on the ignition coil harness locks. The connector wires can then be pulled away from the coils. In the picture, the middle coil has the harness lock pulled up. The coil on the right has already been pulled. Some coils were more difficult to pull then others. I suggest twisting them side to side, rocking them a little, then pulling on them. They're friction fitted (maybe a little suction too). They'll come out with a little work.
This is what my coils looked like. Bremi - 12/01 date- known to fail. I'll keep my eye on these. Not replacing yet (~$35 each).
This is what I used to pull the spark plugs. I suggest a 6" extension as the plugs are pretty deep. The plug closest to the cockpit is a little difficult to get to. I put the spark plug socket on the extension, put it into the coil tube, and then attached the ratchet.
The spark plugs are in there pretty tight (tightening torque is 18 ft-lb). Here are what my plugs looked like. Not too bad.
phrider
2001 Titanium Silver M Roadster with hardtop
1998 Titanium Silver E36 M3 Coupe
Former cars: Saab 900 Turbo, Rabbit, 1967 Chevy II, 1951 Packard Ultramatic Coupe (0-60 in under 0.3 minutes)
Next, and this is optional, put a little copper-based anti-seize compound on the threads of the new plugs. Put the new spark plug in the spark plug socket and with the 6" extension thread the plugs into the cylinder heads by hand to avoid cross-threading. Ratchet down to 18 ft-lbs, or nice and snug - don't over do it. Insert coils until well seated, attach wires, lock down ignition coil harness, reattach knock sensor harness loom, reposition cylinder head cover, attach vent hose and oil cap, reinsert hold-down bolts, and you're finished. The picture below shows a shiny new plug beside my old plugs. As far as difficulty, I grade this one scraped knuckle.
phrider,
Regarding the coil warrantly. I purchased my car Sept 2001. Is the coil warranty extended 6 years out - like the oil-lubricated motor parts? The SIB 12 08 03 states its "covered under the terms of the BMW New Vehicle Warranty". Also, does a coil have to fail or can I just ask the service department to have the coils replaced since they fall within the correct date range of the failing Bremi coils?
You should have received a letter on this in March 2006. My car is an August 2001 build 2001 M Roadster.
The coils are covered for 8 years and unlimited miles from in-service date.
Last edited by phrider; 07-29-2007 at 04:17 PM. Reason: corrected error on warranty years and miles
phrider
2001 Titanium Silver M Roadster with hardtop
1998 Titanium Silver E36 M3 Coupe
Former cars: Saab 900 Turbo, Rabbit, 1967 Chevy II, 1951 Packard Ultramatic Coupe (0-60 in under 0.3 minutes)
I moved in 2004 and I probably did not notify BMW. I'll contact them so that they can send me notifications. Thanks
Great DIY write up, this helped me out a lot. My spark plug change was a breeze thanks to this. However, the correct OEM spark plug to use is NGK DCPR8EKP; they ran me ~$14 per plug.
Last edited by ricecube33; 05-17-2012 at 11:33 AM.
Thx for write up. Very helpful. Much comforted knowing this isn't too bad. Nice photos.
Using your guide for the second time - this time to diagnose a faulty coil. Thanks again!
If you lube the threads with anti-seize, my understanding is that the 18 ft-lb torque no longer applies. You would get them too tight that way. Not sure if enough (especially over multiple plug changes) to damage the aluminum threads in the head. Torque spec is for dry threads. (Same concept applies to lug bolts.) Correct torque lubricated? I haven't seen a number published.
FYI, NGK recommends no anti-seize on their spark plugs. They should also be torqued to 22ft-lb. ± 2ft-lb.
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