Power steering hose removal and replacement for a 1998 740i (without self-leveling suspension).
Time:- 2 hoursTools Needed:
- or 3 Beatles CDs- 8mm hex/allen socket (for the bleeder screw)Parts:
- 8mm socket
- 10mm socket
- 13mm socket
- 15mm socket
- 19mm socket
- 22mm socket
- 24mm socket (optional)
- various socket wrench extensions
- wobble socket adapter
- flat-head screw driver
- oil pan for catching the draining fluid- part number: 32411097164 $19.65Notes:
- part number: 32411091975 $18.55
- part number: 32411093929 $83.50
- part number: 32411093727 $38.87
- part number: 32411093129 $44.40
- part number: 007603014106 (4 washers per car)
- part number: 32411093597 (4 washers per car)
- 2 quarts ATF [import] oil (update: after a day's worth of driving, I have yet to open a second quart)- I didn't yank out all of the hoses at once. Instead I disconnected them, left them where they lay, and then removed and replaced each hose one at a time. This helped me keep track of the exact location of each hose.
- For me, the last hose was very hard to remove until I loosened that bolt on the steering box. I had to place a 15mm wrench on top (on the nut), and then from underneath the car, I used a 15mm socket with a long extension to loosen it. It's also impossible to replace the hose without doing this.
- The clamps for the hoses can be reused, as can the bolts, washers, and o-rings. Although, I wish I had gotten new rubber o-rings and washers. I'm kind of surprised that the new hoses didn't come with them.
- I did this by myself, but if I had help it would have gone much faster because I was constantly moving back and forth between under the hood and under the engine.
- The p/s fluid wasn't messy at all. I mean, if you use the drain plug, then you'll have no problems. I'm kind of surprised at the small amount of fluid that is actually used. I only used a quart to refill it, but I haven't driven it yet, so it might need to drink some more (see update above).
- And because the fluid gets drained from the bottom, it's also a good idea to start removing hoses from the bottom, and then work your way up. Disconnect the bottoms first, and then when you move them away from the car, there'll be no surprises.
- The hardest part was getting the 19-inch bolt back into the power steering pump. The hose that you're connecting is at a weird angle. You have to push up and in, to get it at an angle that will allow you to start screwing in the bolt. And when your hands are already greasy and tired, this can be frustrating. The good news is, once it's in, you're done.
Here is an underneath image of the power steering pump.
The copper washers go before and after the hose. Both need to be replaced.
Last edited by plik; 07-12-2007 at 08:40 PM.
The hoses have little rubber o-rings on them, keep those in case your new hoses don't come with them.
It's easier to detach the reservoir first, then unscrew the clamps that hold the hoses in place.
Here you can see both bolts that need to be removed.
It's a tight fit in there. I had to place the socket (19mm) first, then insert the wrench.
Once I got it going, I used a very long extension and a wobble adapter to get it all the way out.
Quick side note: here is the bolt I was talking about earlier. If you loosen this, removing the last hose is much easier.
Here is my wobble socket adapter.
I didn't photograph me removing the last bolt, but it uses a 22mm socket and is much easier to get to (as you can see in the photos above).
Both of those bolts use a double-set of washers, be careful not to lose them.
Last edited by plik; 07-06-2007 at 01:06 AM.
A complete collection of Beatles -- a good start to any project.
There is a heat shield on the second-to-last hose, it protects the hose from the driver-side exhaust header. You'll notice that the heat shield foil is (incorrectly) opposite on the new hose.
But I say, why not just double up.
The new reservoir doesn't come with the mounting bracket.
Last edited by plik; 07-06-2007 at 01:10 AM.
Excellent post, I am going to use this post soon when I change my hoses out. Thanks.
plik is the man.Thanks for this thread!
Great post, thanks man
You must have cojones as big as a toro, amigo!!! You blithely go where the faint of heart fear to tread. I want to move next door to you.
jake
2001 740i Titansilber & grey...daily beater.
Dang man, clean you engine!!!!
Great post!!! You do know you should replace the copper banjo washers right? Oh, and what CD did you start with?
Excellent stuff plik! You da man
Plik thank you for the write up and pics. Excellent job on this DIY. You truly are the man.
Current: 2010 750 LI Sport (Ruby Black) and 2008 X5 4.8L Sports Package (Metallic Black)
Previous: 2001 740 IL M-Sport package (Schwarz Black),
2001 X5 (Metallic Black) & 1998 740 IL (Artic Silver).
Alright so now that you've explained all of that can you tell me how hard it would be to just replace my power steering pump?
I was weary of draining the fluid and not knowing how to fill it up properly. I don't want to dry start the pump and screw it up!
Could I just loosen the belt to remove the pump or do I need to completely remove it?
2017 BMW X5M
2017 Tesla Model S 100D
2012 Ducati 848 Evo
1996 Ford Bronco Eddie Bauer
The power steering pump is very easy to remove. Aside from the two hose connections (19mm & 24mm), there are three bolts/nuts that hold the pump in place (13mm). Once you remove the bolts/nuts, you slide the pump out and then down. It's very easy because it's right at the bottom of the engine.
As for the belt, you don't have to remove the belt at all, just loosen it and that'll be enough.
You'll of course need to drain the fluid first, but it only takes a quart.
Good luck.
It's hard to keep it clean while you're working on it. I mean, my greasy hands were all over the engine because I would lean on it. If it makes you feel better, I cleaned it up after I was all done.
As for the copper banjo washers, where do I buy them?
And the CD order was as follows:
- Rubber Soul
- Magical Mystery Tour
- Sgt. Pepper
Thanks for he write up plik. Great pics. I have one hose leaking and have the new hose in stock. With 86k on the car I'm thinking I should probably replace them all. Did you decide on the castrol ATF instead of the Mobil 1? Do you know the torque specs on the banjo bolts?
Plik - while I admire your fearlessness in the face of apparently little planning, I'd recommend that others who are interested in replacing their power steering hoses search realoem.com for parts and bimmerboard and e38.org for more information how to do the job. It is a big mistake not to replace the banjo bolt crush washers, and it is unnecessary to remove the 'drain' plug in the power steering pump. Others have ended up with leaks after removing that plug, and you can drain the PS fluid just as effectively by loosening the banjo bolts at the PS pump. Also, you should properly torque (not under or over) the banjo bolts to prevent leaks.
I went with Castrol ATF (import) because that's the only ATF fluid that AutoZone carried that I felt was compatible with BMW. So really the answer is I would have probably gone with Mobil 1 if AutoZone had it. However, I'm sure either is fine.
As for the torque specs, I don't know. And on the p/s pump it would be hard to get my torque wrench down there (under the car), but on top it would be easy.
I actually have the TIS cd (if anyone wants a copy, let me know) and I could look it up. I'm actually out of town right now (on a laptop), but when I get back home I'll look up the spec's.
Let me look up the labor opps on that, must be several hours
ITS ALIVE
HELL HATH NO FURY LIKE A 468
I also think my good looks and witty sense of humor should be admired, but fearlessness in the face of apparently little planning is coincidentally why my wife first fell in love with me, so it's a really great quality to have.
I agree that anyone who wants to start a DIY project needs to research more than one write-up. That way they can come back to mine and admire my dandy photo taking ability.
I also agree that the washers need to be replaced, I just couldn't find (well, I only looked in one place), but I couldn't find where to buy them. Anyone have a link to share?
And as for the drain plug, I don't see why you wouldn't want to remove it to drain the fluid. I mean, it's at the bottom, it's easy to get to, it drains the fluid, and it will go back in just like any other bolt. If you remove the banjo bolts to drain the fluid, then I heard your wheels will fall off or you'll get warts (I don't remember which).
Seriously though, if I need to go back and re-do the banjo bolts, then it's not a big deal. And if there is a small leak coming from the p/s pump in the the mean time, then that's not a big deal either.
I'd much rather try, fail, learn and share my experience with others, than never try at all.
+1
Impulsiveness is inborn, success does not necessarily follow. Satisfaction is a side benefit.
jake
2001 740i Titansilber & grey...daily beater.
According to the TIS the torque spec on the smaller banjo bolt (M14) is 35nm (25ft/lb). The larger banjo bolt (M16) is 40nm (29ft/lb).
Thanks for posting that.
Here is a link for the washers on AutoHausAZ.com.- Copper Seal Ring; 14x20x1.5mm, part: 007603014106 (4 per car)http://www.autohausaz.com/search/pro...ews,%20Washers
- Seal Ring for Power Steering Lines; 16x22mm, part: 32411093597 (4 per car)
Plik, thanks for the write up. You gave me the inspiration to complete this myself, which I did yesterday and all turned out well with the hose replacement. I did notice that my newly installed expansion tank from autohaus has a pin hole leak. At least that is an easy fix.
Can you just copy an entire thread, including pictures, or do you have to do it old-school?
ITS ALIVE
HELL HATH NO FURY LIKE A 468
Do what old school?
Are you talking about printing this thread? If so, just go to the File menu, select Print ....
Or, my favorite method is to take my computer monitor and place it squarely on top of a photocopy machine. That's usually how I get printouts of my favorite web pages.
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