Sorry for the urgent title, I need to know this info before I drive next.
I just did my brakes today (what a job!) and now, my brake light has gone out! yay, and my brake fluid is at the max level still, but my brake pedal feels a little mushy. With moderate force I can press the pedal to the floor, I can't remember what it should feel like. Do I have to bleed my brakes? How do I do that?
Also, what is the proper procedure for bedding in new pads and rotors? Thanks a bunch!
from http://mysite.verizon.net/romano.mic..._Procedure_for
Bedding-in Procedure for Brake Pads and Rotors
While the vehicle is stationary, pump brakes to ensure a firm pedal.
Drive the vehicle cautiously to test fit and function.
The brakes should be smooth, with no vibrations, judder, etc.
Drive the vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3-second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least 10 seconds between each brake application.
Note: The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without inducing thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces.
After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for a few miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components.
After the above process is completed, the system is ready for normal use.
Note: When the system achieves elevated brake temperatures for the first time, a slight increase in pedal travel and pedal effort may occur. After this first "fade" and proper cooling, the system will maintain its optimum performance at all temperatures.
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96 Arctic Silver M3 - Kuhmo Estcas on Hartge Type D 18's, PAR Intake, Sharked, Elipsoids w/ Gen Iv HID Blue DDE's and smoke corners/SuperFog, TMS LTW flywheel & TME's, X-Brace, JT RSM's,ConeCam video gear & stealth mounted V1 w/ InV1siMirror,JT undertray, Motorsport rotors w/ Ferodo DS 3000 and 2500's, Bilstein Sports with Eibach's,SwayBarbarians & UUC SS Comp Evo SSK, SuperSprint exhaust and Schroth harness'es, JT brake ducts......Coming - front and rear JT braces...
My name is Juan Pablo Montoya. You lapped my father. Prepare to die.
THats great, thanks.
Does anyone know how I can bleed my brakes without any special tools?
Also, note that it is normal for new pads to make the brake pedal feel soft. So no matter how good a job you do of bleeding the system, the pedal may still feel softer than before until the pads are fully bedded-in, perhaps as much as a day or two of use.
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NOT with that company any more.
Yeah, the only special tools you will need are about 2' of 1/8" ID rubber hose (it needs to be able to slip over the bleeder nipples and be tight fitting), and a small glass jar (8-16 oz or so). And a box end wrench to fit the brake bleeder nipples (10 mm I think). And a piece of 1x6x12" board wouldn't hurt also to position behind the brake pedal to ensure you don't push the pedal down too far, but isn't absolutely necessary.Originally posted by CJ
Does anyone know how I can bleed my brakes without any special tools?
Top off your brake fluid resorvoir. Pour about 1/2" of new brake fluid in your glass jar. Starting with the wheel farthest from the brake master cylinder, crack open the brake bleeder nozzle, put one end of the hose on the nipple and submerge the other end in the fluid in the glass jar. You can do this yourself, but it helps if you have someone to slowly pump the brake pedal while you watch the bleeder hose. Pump the brake pedal (max of 3/4 full stroke) and watch the fluid coming out of the bleeder. When you no longer see bubbles in the fluid, tighten the bleeder and move to the next closest wheel. DO NOT LET THE FLUID IN THE RESORVOIR GET TOO LOW - KEEP IT TOPPED OFF. And don't forget to bleed the clutch slave cylinder also. I would probably do it last.
If this isn't totally clear, do an internet search using www.google.com for "brake bleeding" and I'm sure you can find someones tech writeup that probably even includes pictures.
Alan, white 1995 M3 5 spd, white 2000 Toyota Tundra V8 4x4, silver 2002 Yamaha FZ1.
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