Zionsville Radiator & Electric Fan Install - w/pics!

[BlackSapphire]

nice investment

I'm hoping so Thizz... <fingers crossed>

[BlackSapphire]

OK, I finished the project this evening. No leaks and the two-speed Zionsville kit works as advertised. It was another E39 adventure.

Pics will be posted tomorrow.

[BlackSapphire]

First of all, thoughts on the kit and the project:

1. The Zionsville build quality is top notch. However, this kit isn't exactly plug-n-play. It helps to have a good understanding of vehicle electronics, how temp sensors work, how relays work and how to wire them up. The kit comes with a schematic but that's it. It's not tough but it may be for some - just something to think of.

2. Lubricate ALL O-rings before you install them. I used a product called "Magic Lube" and it's sold at pool supply houses. It's specifically made for lubricating O-rings (rubber) in harsh environments. I ended up with no leaks - even though those connectors make me nervous. I'm learning to trust them though - they certainly don't appear to be the weak point in these cooling systems.

3. Zionsville shows the relays screwed to the inner fender liner on their website. I thought this was a little ugly and subjects the electronics to a more harsh environment than necessary (even though the relays are all weather). You'll see in the pics below that I installed the relays along with the factory ones underneath the passenger side microfilter housing.

You'll see them here with "H for High" and "L for Low" marked on them.

From the Zionsville website:



4. Bleed the system! This is the most important step. I found that with the air introduced during the swap out, the only way I could get the thermostat to open was to drive at 3500 RPM for almost a mile. At that point, the needle fell right to the middle where it belongs and hasn't budged since. I'll check it and top it off as necessary over the next couple of days.

If anyone decides to tackle this project, feel free to ask bimmerfixr all the questions you have. Just kidding. I'll be glad to assist.

OK, bring on the pics!

OEM vs. HEPU wasserpumpe...er... water pump:





Wiring the SDCK relays (High on upper left, Low on lower right). The HIGH and LOW relays are the ones with the light blue connectors on them. Red, Yellow, Orange, Gray wires coming out of them.



Running the wiring down the fender. The low side has a resistor inline with it. You can see it in the picture.



Closeup of resistor.






By the way, can I just say that my engine compartment is DUSTY! Detail time. :|


Drilled a hole and inserted a rubber grommet where the wires pass into the relay area:



Front of the engine reassembled. New water pump, new thermostat/housing, new belts, reinstalled harmonic balancer and water pump pulley, etc.



A shot of the ANL fitting that attaches the heat exchanger hose to the bottom driver's side of the radiator - sorry so fuzzy:



Removed the shroud/fan and the expansion tank to make installing the radiator easier:



All finished!

Here is a good shot of the wiring after it was dressed:



View from the top:



Overall view:



And another:




Gotta love this stuff:








If you guys have any questions, let me know.

P.S. I took the pics of the engine compartment with the belly pan removed so that you can make out the details - contrast is your friend in a relatively dark environment.

[elton528i]

Superb job.

[BlackSapphire]

Thanks elton.

I just went out and looked at it. No leaks over night. I cracked open the system and topped it off - so far, so good. I guess I'll put the belly pan back on. I have a new RH lower engine cover to install too (splash shield).

Off to the garage (no kids screaming out there)!

[Steve530]

Very cool.

[Earthman03]

I am envious of your garage.

Nice write-up, it should be stickied for anyone interested.

[BlackSapphire]

I am envious of your garage.

Nice write-up, it should be stickied for anyone interested.

That's my third compressor in the last 18 yrs. They keep getting bigger. I'm VERY happy with this one though.

The toolbox was a long time coming. I had so much stuff crammed into my old one that I couldn't find anything. This one is 61" high by 40" wide. Lovin' it. Thanks for the compliments.

[dumale]

great follow up.

Your insight, including the photos and comparisons, helps answer alot of my questions.

Now if I could just get you to transplant an M5 engine...

Thanks!
-D

[BlackSapphire]

great follow up.

Your insight, including the photos and comparisons, helps answer alot of my questions.

Now if I could just get you to transplant an M5 engine...

Thanks!
-D

That's cool - I'm glad it helps. I do this for you guys ya know.

It takes time and energy to take pics and make these posts. It doesn't do much for my health or well-being. I know that I love to find posts like this. They're great to 'fill in the blanks' so to speak.

Cheers.

[PGH540BIMMER]

how did you fasten the resistor to the body, if at all? double-sided foam tape? great write-up!

[BlackSapphire]

how did you fasten the resistor to the body, if at all? double-sided foam tape? great write-up!

You are correct sir! It's the least invasive way to do it. I just cleaned the surface with some denatured alcohol and stuck away.

[BlackSapphire]

More impressions after getting to drive the car yesterday.

The car is much quieter and seems to want to rev quicker (that could be B.S.). It's awesome not having that big fan and heavy fan clutch hanging off of the water pump. No doubt this alone will increase the life of the water pump bearings. It's a much lower load on the bearings. Speaking of bearings, I noticed the factory one had play in it after only 40k miles.

[fragzem]

Im Going For One Today! Woot


edit: and black, yes, you're gonna get stuck installing it for me over the phone
hahahaha

-Pete

[BlackSapphire]

Im Going For One Today! Woot


edit: and black, yes, you're gonna get stuck installing it for me over the phone
hahahaha

-Pete

HA! Figures.

So, I have to make an update to my previous install. As you can see in this picture:



Don't do that! That resistor gets hot enough to easily melt wires. Ask me how I know.... :|

Re-route everything away from the resistor. I now have it by itself and it's screwed to the body with brass standoffs so that air can circulate around it. I just happened to notice it when I was showing a buddy the install.

Just an FYI......

I'll shoot a pic of the modified setup later.

[fragzem]

i got mine all in today! woot
gonna do the wiring tomorrow i suppose
i really dont want to

any pointers? Those diagrams.. geez - do I use both, or use half of one diagram and stick the 2-speed option inbetween or what?

[BlackSapphire]

There is only one diagram you need to use.... the one that shows the two speed option (two relays and a resistor on it).

As for the resistor, don't forget to actually mount it (not double-sided tape) to the body and don't run any other wires along side of it. I used a couple of small aluminum sleeves to mount it. It allows air to flow all the way around - no more probs with heat.

[fragzem]

so i changed this sensor on the pas side around, wired that up....
maybe i just hate diagrams and didn't study it enough, but the red/black from the fan go where exactly? I know the relays both have a red that goes to it... it goes to both... or how or what....

I really should study the damn diagram more but damn it, i hate wiring diagrams... instructions so much easier.... of which I have none...

this terminal 15 is located where for the ignition source?? lol... damn it.. and this gray wire for the sending unit.. which is the sending unit?

[BlackSapphire]

Center conductor on the temp sensor they sent you goes to ground. One of the other green wires (I forget the terminal number but they're marked) grounds out when the temp hits 80c. The third terminal grounds out when it hits 83c.

So, it's like this...

Temp sensor (sending unit) center conductor ---> ground
Temp sensor (80c for low speed) ---> gray wire going to low speed relay
Temp sensor (83c for high speed) ---> gray wire going to high speed relay
Yellow wires from both relays get constant fused (30amp) power.
Red wire from high speed relay goes directly to red wire on fan
Red wire on low speed relay goes to resistor - other side of resistor goes directly to red on fan as well.
Black from fan goes to ground (same as center green conductor on temp sensor).
Orange wires on both relays go to a switched 12v source - nothing big, it's not necessary - it just for the relay triggers

[BlackSapphire]

Also, if you look here:



You'll see a distribution block at the top of the pick with three reddish brown wires coming out of it (right behind the 30amp ANL fuse holder in the pic).

Those three wires are being fed by a large gauge constant 12v source. That's a good place to tap into with your fuse holder. The other end of the fuse holder goes to the yellow wires on the relays.

If you want to use another constant 12v source, that's fine. Just make sure it's of sufficient capacity.

[bimmerfixr]

Just a thought. Best 10 bucks I ever spent. Except for that time in...nevermind. www.turnermotorsport.com. Fan stud nut. Nice piece!

[BlackSapphire]

Just a thought. Best 10 bucks I ever spent. Except for that time in...nevermind. www.turnermotorsport.com. Fan stud nut. Nice piece!

Very nice.... added to the list. Thanks bimmerfixr.

[fragzem]

Damn, he sure solved my issue with that nut!
I was thinking ever since I got the damn radiator... "what.. oh what... can i stick on that tip?"

And thanks for those wiring insturctions... i dont see how my diagram made me know the damn sending unit goes to the other shit..... wont the car throw a CEL if i dont put the wires from the original sending unit connector together with the new one??

[BlackSapphire]

Damn, he sure solved my issue with that nut!
I was thinking ever since I got the damn radiator... "what.. oh what... can i stick on that tip?"

And thanks for those wiring insturctions... i dont see how my diagram made me know the damn sending unit goes to the other shit..... wont the car throw a CEL if i dont put the wires from the original sending unit connector together with the new one??

You are not going to mess with the factory temp sensor. The circuit for the new fan kit is completely stand-alone. The car doesn't know it's there.

[fragzem]

You are not going to mess with the factory temp sensor. The circuit for the new fan kit is completely stand-alone. The car doesn't know it's there.

eek i already cut the damn thing!!
i left enough room when i cut it at the connector tho where i might re-connect it... i guess it wont matter will it? I thought these damn cars read all the resistances and crap on everything... but if u say so, I'll take your word for it on this one Black!