Hey everyone, just got my first M rocket, it's a full stock '98 blck/blck sedan. I just want some opinions as to what would be the most essential mods to get. I won't be racing at the track, just want increased pleasure on the roads. Thanks
UUC tranny mount enforcers - is your car a 5 speed?
=]
If you want to get some quick, cheap horsepower, get an ECIS intake. They're about $300 shipped... I think.
There's nice exhausts out there. Check out supersprint, B&B, Active Autowerke, or UUC's systems.
The best mod, however, is a membership to the SCCA, and go autocross your car for a season, and learn its limits. Learn how to have fun with that beast, and control it like it's an extension of your own physical self.
Money also well spent is on a BMW CCA membership, and get involved with any local rallies your region may be putting on, or car control clinics / autocrosses. Sometimes the best car mod is to tighten the nut behind the wheel. =]
1995 ///M3
Daytona Violet
212.9hp/202.1ft-lbs to the wheels, stock. No dyno yet for engine mods
- AA Gen3 exhaust - X brace - UUC TME's - GC RSM's - Conforti Intake w/ GIAC chip -
Intake, performance chip, exhaust
For the intake, go with ECIS ( www.ecisbmw.com )
For the performance chip, go with Jim Conforti or Active Autowerke ( www.turnermotorsport.com ) ( www.activeautowerke.com )
For the exhaust, go with Eisenmann Race Version ( www.eisenhaus.com )
BMW Cigar And Gun Club Member #7
x-brace (came with the LTW M3 and the convertibles, will bolt right in to your car)
check the rear shock mounts; replace with something from ground control or jtd if needed
check rear trailing arm bushings (RTABs)... here is a thread on that: http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...threadid=75887
european ellipsoids to replace the crappy stock lights.
welcome to the club! have fun.
"Essential" mods to an M3? Hang on, let me go ask my wife...
Seriously, I would recommend an X-brace if improved driver feel and feedback is essential to you.
Brent
The VERY FIRST mod I would do is the UUC Tranny Mounts w/ Enforcers. Hands down...
Unless you wanna spend that precious mod money on an engine rebuild.
My vote is with bdub and DSK. Just get an X-brace, and check your stock suspension wear items: trailing arm bushings, RSMs, front control arm bushings.
Then go to some drivers schools and mod yourself.
2007 335i Coupe - Space Grey/Coral Red
clear corners:
fan delete, cheap mod gives decent hp for the cost
you can get one at www.understeer.com
Cheap stuff:
DEFINITELY check/replace any worn suspension items: rear shock mounts, rear trailing arm bushings, front control arm bushings. You can incur quite a bit of cost if one of these items wears really badly.
Also, UUC tranny mounts and enforcers as Ron17 said. They eliminate the "wiggle" in the stock transmission mounts, greatly reducing the chance of a missed shift and consequent over-rev, which can also be big money. If you'd like to buy a set, I sell them at $35 for the mounts and $35 for the enforcers, or $70 together, just like UUC. E-mail me at mdc@m3motorwerks.com if you'd like a set, or you can buy them directly from www.uucmotorwerks.com.
A UUC Big Boy Clutch Stop is also great for reducing extra clutch travel -- really tightens up shifts considerably. $20. Again, e-mail me if you want one.
The other thing that's always bugged me about the M3 is the SLOPPY transmission and long throws. In my opinion an SSK is essential; it really changes the feel of a car and makes it quite a pleasure to drive. Once again, I'm going to recommend and offer UUC's product. Go to www.m3motorwerks.com and click on "short shift kits" for lots of info on why you should get one of these.
Anyway, if you'll forgive all the selling , these really are all excellent mods to start out with.
Micah D. Cranman
mdc@bavsound.com |
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I agree with everybody, but my favorite intake is the Jim C one (but picking an intake is like picking a religion, very controversial). I'd get the shifter at Understeer.com (he's a board member), it is a M Roadster part that is modified to work in the M3.
The driver school suggestion is the best....damn those cars are fun!
The car is great as is - you don't need to do anything, but enjoy the car. In a matter of fact, drive it as is, then do this stuff - you will appreciate the upgrades even more!
EX-NASA SpecE30 Racer---NASA Florida Certified Instructor
Totally agree with this one. When I had my Mustang, it wasn't 2 weeks before I started modding it in search of more fun. In fact even after all the mods I had on that car, I was still left wanting. I picked up the M3, and was astonished to discover I liked the car just the way it was. I've done a few mods since then out of an addiction for tinkering with cars, but I feel that if I'd just left it alone I would still be just as happy with the car... As others have said, if you have to mod something, start with some of the essential drivetrain and suspension areas, then learn to drive the thing, then if you need more mod away...Originally posted by jblack
The car is great as is - you don't need to do anything, but enjoy the car. In a matter of fact, drive it as is, then do this stuff - you will appreciate the upgrades even more!
1989 325i - STS Machine
You didn't say how many miles are on your car, but if it's average for a 99, I'd say that the very first thing to do is get up to date on the service. My guess is that your shocks/struts (if stock) are probably on their way out. The rear trailing arm bushings, rear shock mounts, front control arm bushings most likely need attention. The front ball joints and tie rods may be loosening up, too, along with the sway bar endlinks. If you're around 60K, then you might also think about a major cooling system service - change the water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, hoses, maybe even the radiator.
Once all that's out of the way, then the very best use of your money is driving school. Take a car control clinic (or two, or three!). Track schools/hpde's/driving schools are great and addictive. Autox will teach you a whole bunch about driving, too. The good thing is that you can take all the driver mods with you no matter what car you drive.
Jim
Nice pick on your color combo, I'm also a new member, still just enjoying my car how it is stock, all I have are clears and 18's, I would probably vote driver school; one of the best investerments you can make.
later
98 M3 sedan
Black on Black
M3 SEDAN CLUB #32
I was just thinking about this the other day...is there an FAQ on common issues?
We could categorize things such as:
Nice to have:
1. clutch stop
2. etc...
Preventive (weaknesses in design that may cause damage if not taken care of):
1. RSMs
2. etc...
More Power:
1. intake
2. etc...
Basically, compile a big 'ol list of things from this thread that new folks could consult.
Add the JTD Underpanel to the preventitive maintence. The stock one is almost guaranteed to not be there on any car you buy, or will shortly come off.
When I first got my car, I basically did a compelely Inspection II just to make sure it was caught up on maintence. Really isn't that expensive if you do the labor yourself(in fact, cheaper than maintence on my Acura Integra).
2 words - DRIVING SCHOOL.
I know you said you aren't planning on "racing at the track" but get a BMWCCA membership and go to a driving school. In San Fran, you're right next to Laguna Seca and Sears Point (whatever they call it now), 2 of the best road courses in America. Nothing will improve you're cars' performance and your driving pleasure like modifying your own driving skills. You don't need mods to go to the track either. Make sure you're current on all the maintainence and general wear items (some were mentioned above) and make sure your stock brakes are in good condition with new fluid and plenty of pad and rotor life left. Thats it, go out and have a blast. Once you know your car's limits better and your skills have improved, you will also be much more able to appreciate any modifications you make to the car.
As someone suggested, autocrosses are also a good way to learn about your car and they cost less than a club driving school at the track. However, I recommend the driving schools first because at the school you will get personal attention from your instructor who has been selected for both knowing what he (or she) is talking about and also ability to relate it to you. Autocrosses, in my limited experience, (others feel free to chime in here) tend to be a little less structured in that to get some personal instruction you need to seek out a knowledgable person and ask their advice. Some people aren't as comfortable doing this and/or don't know what questions to ask.
As much as we love modifying these cars, there are very few of us who can claim an ability level superior to the level of these cars in stock form. And I doubt there are any who could make that claim with out years of seat time to learn. Sorry to wax a bit soapboxish there on you. Enjoy your new car!
You guys are great, thanks for the straight shooting advise. I think just the preventative maint. and SSK for now will be enough. As far as the driving school advice, SOLD!!! I lived in Monterey for 3 years and raced my road bike at Laguna Seca a few times. That sounds like a wonderfull place to get some skills.
Just two quick questions: what are the pros and cons for going with 18" wheels and if I do change whells should they be all the same size????
also my 4 spoke steering wheel is shot, looking for a new one. Will the E46 M3 wheels fit?? If not where can I get a well priced OE one??
Thanks again!!!
BTW:
1998 M3 sedan, 5 spd, blk/blk, 39,300 miles, stock
Are there any sites online that show where and how to replace/check the rear shock mounts, rear trailing arm bushings, and front control arm bushings?
BEFORE you do the driving school, get the UUC tranny mounts and Enforcers. www.ecisbmw.com has them on sale now. They help prevent mis-shift's.
I like my Stygar SSK, especially for $150. It's not as extreme as the UUC one. Just depends on what you're looking for. Then you might as well finish it off with the clutch stop from UUC as mentioned above. This combo make a HUGE improvement in how your car will feel. The stock shifter is just CRAP. It's loose and wiggles around and feels like I was rowing a boat.
As for intakes, they all seem to work the same and so the PAR intake must be mentioned since it's only $175.
Nothing wrong with going with 18's. Just remember the lighter the wheel the better. There's a CHEAP group buy on some nice looking HP wheels now. Kinda heavy at 26lbs for 18" but look good.
You will get some gains with an exhaust. AA, UUC and SuperSprint seem to make the most power. Also, UUC will have some pullies available soon for pretty cheap.
Good luck. Have fun and try not to go broke.
and save THIS SITE for tech stuff.
SOLD: '96 Artic Silver M3/2 Lux Click here for pic's. 2003 X5 4.6is: Nav, loading floor, comfort seats
2007 E90 335i: Titanium Silver/Black/Aluminum trim, Sport, Premium, Heated seats (for the wife), iPOD, MORR VS7
2011 E92 M3: Space Grey/Black/Blue aluminum trim, Premium, iDrive, DCT
Driving school's a great idea UNLESS you have a convertible (like me) and they won't let you take it on the track. Sigh....liability laws SUCK.
Might as well get the Ground Control rear shock mounts in the GB section HERE.
Just change them out when you do the suspension, which could be any day now if it's still stock. The is a great price on a great product.
SOLD: '96 Artic Silver M3/2 Lux Click here for pic's. 2003 X5 4.6is: Nav, loading floor, comfort seats
2007 E90 335i: Titanium Silver/Black/Aluminum trim, Sport, Premium, Heated seats (for the wife), iPOD, MORR VS7
2011 E92 M3: Space Grey/Black/Blue aluminum trim, Premium, iDrive, DCT
H&R Coilovers, GC RSMs, Stygar shifter.
Alan
1995 M3 | rattling sunroof
how much did u pay for ur new ride
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