I did a search earlier today and it seems that a lot of the members are opting for a coolant temperature gauge rather than a volt meter. The main obstacle seems to be installing the sender. EMW doesn't offer any assistance with this, either.
Has anyone attempted to install a coolant temp gauge in their M3?
If so, is it THAT much better than the stock gauge??
I have. I put the sender into the (aluminum... NOT plastic) thermostat housing. No problems with leakage.
The stock gauge goes full warm around 150F, and stays there up to around 250F (haven't explored this range much). That's far too wide a range for me.
Besides, what the hell good is a voltmeter? I already have one in the OBC that's way more accurate than the VDO analog gauge. (Accessed by function #09 BTW, if you're curious)
hey lazybones: whatever you're asking, the answer is already in the archives.
Originally posted by fourfa
I have. I put the sender into the (aluminum... NOT plastic) thermostat housing. No problems with leakage.
So you drilled and tapped the cast aluminum t-stat housing? Shouldn't leak being NPT, just curious about durability of the cast aluminum?
"It's not the people who vote that count, it's the people who count the votes."
-DNC
looked fine to me, good 3-4 threads. I made a bead of black water sealant to be sure.
Also, there is an existing water temp sender that may be compatible with some of the VDO gauges. I didn't try it. It screws into the side of the block, which is a better location. One could potentially just tap into it.
hey lazybones: whatever you're asking, the answer is already in the archives.
If I read my Bentley right, the oem coolant temp sensor is a different ohm range than the standard VDO range.
Sealant on threads of a single pole sensor is a , since the housing is ground.
"It's not the people who vote that count, it's the people who count the votes."
-DNC
not sealant on threads, sealant bead around the edge of the sensor after being screwed into the housing.
VDO offers a few different ohm range gauges. One might match, dunno. I'm just guessing since VDO supplied the gauges for the M roadster.
Last edited by fourfa; 02-17-2003 at 03:10 AM.
hey lazybones: whatever you're asking, the answer is already in the archives.
badmonkey,
could you post the ohm range of the OEM coolant temp sensor?
For Bosch DME 3.3.1 engine coolant temp sensor test points:
Test Temp k ohms
14 +/-2F 7-11.6
68 +/-2F 2.1-2.9
176 +/-2F .27-.40
( ref: Bentley, pp. 130-19 )
Last edited by badmonkey; 02-17-2003 at 12:26 AM.
"It's not the people who vote that count, it's the people who count the votes."
-DNC
Fourfa: Could you be more specific in your sender placement? Is it on the top of the housing to the left of the housing bolt? Also, did you use a regular tap, or did you need a special tap for a pipe-threaded sender? Thanks.Originally posted by fourfa
I have. I put the sender into the (aluminum... NOT plastic) thermostat housing. No problems with leakage.
The stock gauge goes full warm around 150F, and stays there up to around 250F (haven't explored this range much). That's far too wide a range for me.
Besides, what the hell good is a voltmeter? I already have one in the OBC that's way more accurate than the VDO analog gauge. (Accessed by function #09 BTW, if you're curious)
Pipe thread tap, 1/8 NPT.
"It's not the people who vote that count, it's the people who count the votes."
-DNC
Thanks. Do you know where the optimal placement of the cender is? Fourfa indicated he put it on the "hot" side. That would be on the right side of the housing (I think). I'm uncertain if he plumbed it straight up, or facing the radiator.Originally posted by badmonkey
Pipe thread tap, 1/8 NPT.
it went in the right side, where hot coolant flows out to the radiator. I tapped it into the underside of the housing, just above the accessory belt, pointing straight up. It and the wire leading from it are totally invisible to inspection. haven't had any leaks I can detect in a year's use.
hey lazybones: whatever you're asking, the answer is already in the archives.
Thanks Fourfa. You indicated in an earlier post that you "bottomed out" (I think that is the term you used) when you tapped the hole. Should I take that to mean that I shouldn't run the tap all the way through the hole? Thanks.Originally posted by fourfa
it went in the right side, where hot coolant flows out to the radiator. I tapped it into the underside of the housing, just above the accessory belt, pointing straight up. It and the wire leading from it are totally invisible to inspection. haven't had any leaks I can detect in a year's use.
yes, I made te mistake of running the tap too deep. Used black water sealant to make sure no water would work through the threads. Run the tap halfway through, test fit the sender, then see if you want to tap one or two threads more. Just go slowly and carefully and don't go too deep.
hey lazybones: whatever you're asking, the answer is already in the archives.
What is the danger of going too deep? I thought that pipe thread sealed itself by tapering out?Originally posted by fourfa
yes, I made te mistake of running the tap too deep. Used black water sealant to make sure no water would work through the threads. Run the tap halfway through, test fit the sender, then see if you want to tap one or two threads more. Just go slowly and carefully and don't go too deep.
Pipe threads are tapered to be self sealing, but if you tap deeper than the sensor, you will lose the taper fit. Essentially tapping the hole bigger than the threaded item being screwed in. I did a trial thread tap on the OEM plastic t-stat housing to see how deep to tap the hole, and found the same thing as Fourfa when running the tap all the way through.Originally posted by lkstaack
What is the danger of going too deep? I thought that pipe thread sealed itself by tapering out?
"It's not the people who vote that count, it's the people who count the votes."
-DNC
Thanks guys! I'm glad that I'm able to learn from your experiences. One final question: did you use a drill press or hand drill? Thanks.Originally posted by badmonkey
Pipe threads are tapered to be self sealing, but if you tap deeper than the sensor, you will lose the taper fit. Essentially tapping the hole bigger than the threaded item being screwed in. I did a trial thread tap on the OEM plastic t-stat housing to see how deep to tap the hole, and found the same thing as Fourfa when running the tap all the way through.
Hand drill, make sure to use the correct sized bit!
"It's not the people who vote that count, it's the people who count the votes."
-DNC
yes, get the EXACT size letter or number drill. Something is telling me it was a "Q" drill, but I'm not sure. Find a drill size chart to check.
hey lazybones: whatever you're asking, the answer is already in the archives.
I don't know what a "Q" drill bit is. The tap that I just got recommended a 5/16" bit.Originally posted by fourfa
yes, get the EXACT size letter or number drill. Something is telling me it was a "Q" drill, but I'm not sure. Find a drill size chart to check.
hey, how you get the VOLTAGE reading from the OBD???? pleazzzzzzzzzz post instructions!!!!!!! thanks
from unofficialbmw.com
The following is from a 1993 posting attributed to Jim Conforti for the E36 OBC-
"To determine if your OBC is eligible .. press 1000 and 10 together ..
you should see TEST NO -- or something like that --
Now, some of the functions are locked out .. I do NOT recommend messing with them and you do so at your own risk ... that said ..
To unlock all functions .. press 1000 and 10 and at the TEST prompt enter 19 using the keys .. press SET/RES .. you should see LOCK:ON or something similar ... press the DATE key (today you'd see 07.14) and add the two numbers (day and month) together (today 21)
Now enter the number you just calculated (21) and press SET/RES
TADA .. you just unlocked the secret functions ...
To lock them back up .. press 1000 and 10 then enter 19, SET/RES, now press SET/RES again, it should show .. LOCK:ON again
In general when I show a test I enter it by pressing 1000 and 10 together then enter the number of the test with the numeric key and press SET/RES to actually execute the test ...
Test numbers for E36 OBC (Note: This should also work for the 535!)
1 Display Test .. all LCDs and LEDs activate 2 Current Consumption in l/100km
3 Current Consumption in L/hour
4 Average Consumption (used to calc. Range) 5 Current Range
6 Not used ..
7 Average Fuel in Tank (l)
8 Current Speed (km/h)
9 System Voltage at terminal R
10 Country/Language
11 Units/ AM.PM
12 Average Speed (km/h) for calc. ETA
13 ETA
14 Date of software/mask of OBC
15 Production Diagnosis (??)
16 Production Diagnosis (??)
17 Display Vehicle Specific Data
18 Alarm Changeover (continuous v. intermittent) 19 LOCK/UNLOCK all functions
20 Correction Factor for OBC Fuel Consumption (SEE BELOW!) 21 Reset all defect codes, date and time ... activate by pressing SET/RES
so the voltage test is #09
hey lazybones: whatever you're asking, the answer is already in the archives.
Thanks Fourfa and Badmonkey. Tapped the housing without much problem. This is what it looks like. Mounts very close to the belt.Originally posted by fourfa
it went in the right side, where hot coolant flows out to the radiator. I tapped it into the underside of the housing, just above the accessory belt, pointing straight up. It and the wire leading from it are totally invisible to inspection. haven't had any leaks I can detect in a year's use.
Wait a minute, you can reset all defect codes with an OBC??? Will this clear error lights like the airbag?Originally posted by fourfa
from unofficialbmw.com
Test numbers for E36 OBC
21 Reset all defect codes, date and time ... activate by pressing SET/RES
97 Estoril/Black M3/4/5
"Although we've experienced an M3 sedan with an automatic, our test car came fitted as God intended, with a 5-speed manual ..."
Road & Track May 1997, testing the M3 Sedan
No, the reset is for the consumption correction factor AFAIK. When you change to a euro HFM on a 95 M3, the consumption will be way wacked out. you can correct, to a point, by messing with the OBC's correction factor, but not enough to make it correct. I think that reset is just to reset all programmable values to default, not a DME or code reset...but I could be wrong! Why not give it a shot!
Tim
1995 M3 (sold)
1997 M3/4 (sold)
2004 GT3
2008 E90 M3 on order -- week 23 build -- DCT and 19's!
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