Rear Ball Joints Replaced. Wow! What a difference!

[IppoJ]

Also, it looks like Victory is out of business. Anyone have a picture of the tool, or better yet... anyone want to sell or rent me theirs?

I see that too.
Does anyone know if the RTAB tool will work for these ball joint/bushings?

[hinzm3]

I changed out my rear ball joints, wheel bearings, rtabs, subframe bushings, diff bushing, and I don't even remember what else just last year. The car was completely different and felt great.

[IppoJ]

I changed out my rear ball joints, rtabs, subframe bushings, diff bushing, and I don't even remember what else just last year.

What did you use to remove/install them?

[BimmerM3inGA]

The RTAB tool will not work on the ball joints. It CAN be done without the Victory tool, as I found out when I couldn't beg, borrow, or steal one. Pelican sells a "tool" to press them out, but it's basically just a short length of steel tube the same size as the metal sleeve of the ball joint, with a flat plate welded over one end. You still have to get creative, though. It was recommended to use a hammer to pound them in and them out, but there isn't really enough room to get a good swing. Plus, if you miss, you could end up with some incidental damage.

My solution: Advance Auto Parts has a tool loaner program. I "borrowed" a ball joint press tool set that consists of a very large c-clamp and an assortment of fittings. None of the included fittings would work, so I spent some time in Lowe's and found various pieces of metal pipe and plates and was able to rig up the press. It was a righteous PITA to get the first one figured out and it probably took 2 hours to R & I that one. But I had it figured out by the time I got to #4 and had it swapped in 10 minutes.

[hinzm3]

What did you use to remove/install them?

I was going to borrow a tool from a local shop but I had such a hard time with the rear wheel bearings that I got pissed off and just took the arms out completely. Dropped them off at said shop and picked them up a couple of days later and they installed my new wheel bearings and ball joints. It was worth every penny of the $200 bill.


I still get pissed off when I think about those wheel bearings.

[vinnymac]

You do not need an expensive "special" tool. Here's what I did:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...=923030&page=2

[EURO M3 CSL]

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[IppoJ]

You do not need an expensive "special" tool. Here's what I did:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...=923030&page=2

That looks like the ticket vinnymac.

I do wish I knew for sure if the RTAB tool worked or didn't work for these.

[ZUUD BYE]

What did you use to remove/install them?

Got that tool for rent, used it myself 2 weeks ago worked great on RTAB and upper & lower outer ball joints (like a hot knife in butter). Follow link in my sig if interested....

[techron]

awesome now i have another thing I wanna replace on my M3!! this could be the phantom knock (midgets with beer bottle's in trunk sound) that has been killing me even after i replaced everything else.

Ronnie

[BMWManiac]

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[RagnarDanskjold]

You do not need an expensive "special" tool. Here's what I did:

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...=923030&page=2

Great write up. I did basically the same thing with various sizes of pipes and sockets, some of which I had to grind down (no lathe) to rest on the bearing sleeved, but fit through the hole.


FWIW, the extra steps to remove the rotor (backing off the parking brake) and pulling the assembly off to remove the dust shield will be well worth it when you actually start working on the replacement.

The mounting hole sits at a slight outwards angle that puts one end right up against the shield, making it tough to work with your tools in there.

[RagnarDanskjold]

Edit: And yes, I've had the 96+ parts on my '95 for several years without a problem. They fit just fine.

[GUINNESS]

That was a GREAT write-up with the copper pipe.

[BMWManiac]

Does anyone have the VPD tool to rent? I have to replace mine (lower ones have play in them)

[frankc]

I know this thread is ancient, but today I started the job of replacing the rear ball joints on my '98 M3 with 205K miles (and yes, original ball joints). Everything was going ok up until I tried to remove the eccentric bolt from the left lower ball joint. The bolt appears to be seized in the ball joint (the top bolt came out fine). Has anybody experienced this before? Turning the head of the bolt simply causes the inner ball joint to spin. I tried beating it out with a large hammer (with nut attached at end to protect the threads), but it hasn't moved. I can use heat, but if that doesn't work and I end up melting the rubber boots on the existing ball joint in the process, then I'm even worse off. Any suggestions? I could try an air hammer, but I didn't think that would be as effective as the BFH.

Thanks

[rcM3]

I know this thread is ancient, but today I started the job of replacing the rear ball joints on my '98 M3 with 205K miles (and yes, original ball joints). Everything was going ok up until I tried to remove the eccentric bolt from the left lower ball joint. The bolt appears to be seized in the ball joint (the top bolt came out fine). Has anybody experienced this before? Turning the head of the bolt simply causes the inner ball joint to spin. I tried beating it out with a large hammer (with nut attached at end to protect the threads), but it hasn't moved. I can use heat, but if that doesn't work and I end up melting the rubber boots on the existing ball joint in the process, then I'm even worse off. Any suggestions? I could try an air hammer, but I didn't think that would be as effective as the BFH.

Thanks

A real treat to get these old threads dug up.

Do you have the ball joint tool for this? Can you set it up on the other side of the hub so the bolt isn’t in the way?

[tvcasualty]

I know this thread is ancient, but today I started the job of replacing the rear ball joints on my '98 M3 with 205K miles (and yes, original ball joints). Everything was going ok up until I tried to remove the eccentric bolt from the left lower ball joint. The bolt appears to be seized in the ball joint (the top bolt came out fine). Has anybody experienced this before? Turning the head of the bolt simply causes the inner ball joint to spin. I tried beating it out with a large hammer (with nut attached at end to protect the threads), but it hasn't moved. I can use heat, but if that doesn't work and I end up melting the rubber boots on the existing ball joint in the process, then I'm even worse off. Any suggestions? I could try an air hammer, but I didn't think that would be as effective as the BFH.

Thanks

Yep just went through this. Its very common apparently. Mine wouldnt budge no matter what I ended up taking an angle grinder to the bolt head and the threads on the other side. Very time consuming. I have only done one side if the other bolt is welded in there by rust I will attempt to drill the head side off instead should be faster than grinding.


You can slide the control arms over whats left of the bolt.

[smr87]

After trying multiple no destructive methods, I was successful with heat and brute force. I cut the control arm and bolt off, put a lot of heat to it, and went to town with a 32oz ball-peen hammer until the ball joint was free. It was not easy and you will have to replace the bolt (which you should do anyways), but it was effective.