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Thread: Changing door locks/spinning lock cylinder

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by magooZ3 View Post
    Ferris, Thanks for the information Buddy.

    This answered a lot of questions.

    A little tricky installation but got it done.
    LOL Talk about a blast from the past. Glad this is still helping you guys out.... I still have the car and "new" lock has held up the last 10 years, longer than the the original.
    2010 E60 M5
    2001 M Roadster
    2001 E39 M5

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ferris View Post
    LOL Talk about a blast from the past. Glad this is still helping you guys out.... I still have the car and "new" lock has held up the last 10 years, longer than the the original.
    Best news yet!

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Randy Forbes View Post
    Best news yet!
    Hey Randy glad to see you're still around too... I have to admit BMW's, at least circa 2001, are well built and if properly maintained seem to last. 16 years old and running like the day I drove her off the lot.
    2010 E60 M5
    2001 M Roadster
    2001 E39 M5

  4. #29
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    I had the dreaded spinning door cylinder lock, so I followed the directions outlined in this thread to disassemble everything. I did find the three small pieces that popped out of my door handle, reassembled everything, and secured with a zip tie. The zip tie isn't under a lot pf pressure, clears all the moving parts, and now the cylinder works like new. Sorry I didn't take pics of the three parts (rectangular piston with hole for spring, spring, and "T" cap).

    BME Z3 Door Handle Repair I (3-30-18).jpgBME Z3 Door Handle Repair V (3-30-18).jpgBME Z3 Door Handle Repair II (3-30-18).jpg

  5. #30
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    01 2.5i, 98 1.9 DASC & M
    [QUOTE=DMilla;29989248]Sorry I didn't take pics of the three parts (rectangular piston with hole for spring, spring, and "T" cap)./QUOTE]

    Here you go. I posted these several years ago in a different thread.

    PICT0003.JPGPICT0001.JPG

    When I repaired mine I staked the pot metal to the T plate with a punch and covered with JB Weld. That has held up for a dozen years or do.

  6. #31
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    [QUOTE=steve f;29989591]
    Quote Originally Posted by DMilla View Post
    I know this thread is ancient. My driver door lock failed a few years ago, and the power lock won't unlock the driver's door so I've been having to unlock the passenger door and reach over to get in for a while now. I had read up on these when it first happened and fount the T plate and the small square with the hole in it in my door. I never bothered trying to do anything with it all because I figured it was a nightmare to remove from the door. I removed everything from my car for paint and had a peak at the the mechanism and the ball bearings were still in place, all I had to do was push the plate that rides on the bearings flat and the lock would work. I slide the square with the hole back in its home and put the T on and it snapped into place. For good measure I peened the edge so it can't fall out again. Seems fine to me. I had been using the original key for my entire ownership and none of the locks worked well. I had to push just right in the right directions to get each one to work. I'm sure that's what did mine in eventually. I since ordered a brand new key from BMW and all the locks work like a charm.

  7. #32
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    1998 Z3 1.9
    Quote Originally Posted by Ferris View Post
    NO auto up? The connector is isn't connected
    NO unlocking? The bar isn't in the white clip
    NO Open the door? The handle isn't in the lever that takes 20 minutes to fit in.
    What about "NO locking"? Everything works apart from trying to lock the car from the outside with the key. Any ideas perhaps? Is it a lock barrel issue?
    Also, does someone have a link to a rebuild kit on Amazon or ebay for the Z3? I can only find other models.
    Last edited by elgolfo; 08-15-2018 at 05:15 PM.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by elgolfo View Post
    What about "NO locking"? Everything works apart from trying to lock the car from the outside with the key...
    So what do you hear and feel?
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    So what do you hear and feel?
    When I close the door and try to lock it from the outside with my key, it turns as far as it should (a quarter turn to the right, if I am not mistaken). I feel little resistance and hear nothing. It doesn't turn entirely free, though, I still feel as if I turn against a spring. Not sure, though.

  10. #35
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    Last edited by Vintage42; 08-16-2018 at 06:53 AM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  11. #36
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    That's exactly what I thought, but I replaced the actuator twice already, so I can either exclude this as a culprit or there might be a problem installing it? I can close the door from the inside by pushing down the pin and it also locks whenever central locking is engaged by locking the passenger side.

  12. #37
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    I think the actuators are supposed to make a sound when they are energized by turning the key. You said you heard nothing, which might mean they are not connected.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    I think the actuators are supposed to make a sound when they are energized by turning the key. You said you heard nothing, which might mean they are not connected.
    So is there a connection from the lock to the actuator that i could check?
    The actuator is able to lock/unlock with central locking and doorpin and it is able to unlock with the key.

  14. #39
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    The actuator has an electrical plug which I assume is connected to the key lock.
    If the actuator is not responding to the key lock, maybe the connection or the key lock itself is bad.
    I have not had the problem myself, and don't know anything beyond what I can read in forum posts.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    The actuator has an electrical plug which I assume is connected to the key lock.
    If the actuator is not responding to the key lock, maybe the connection or the key lock itself is bad.
    I have not had the problem myself, and don't know anything beyond what I can read in forum posts.
    It is so odd to think no one had this problem before. Do you think buying one of those lock rebuild kits and taking it out to see if something has gone missing would be the best approach?

  16. #41
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    The lock actuator receives a 2-wire harness. Where does that harness go? You plugged in two new actuators.
    Does the harness go to the key cylinder, and does the cylinder then operate a switch that energizes the actuator?
    There is a better and enlargeable image of that lock kit at ECST and I wonder how it works the actuator.
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51219061343/

    I was in my doors five years ago for other reasons and paid no attention to the locking mechanisms.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  17. #42
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    The harness splits up. Two wires (white/red and red/green) go to the door handle (passing through a yellow big connector). The other part of the harness continues towards the front of the door and merge with cables of speakers and side mirrors into a harness that goes into the car.

    I took everything apart and looked at the handle. I confirmed that there is constant 12v on the red/green wire and switched 12v on the white/red, live only when the key is turned into the locking position. In my opinion, this confirms that both the lock and the microswitch is functioning properly. HOWEVER, I was unable to lock the car with the handle out the door. Even though the cable was receiving power, it did not make the actuator lock the car. Is there perhaps another connection, or a ground, that only comes into play when the handle is in its position in the door?

    Now comes the weird pard: I put it all back together and suddenly I was able to lock the car. However, the formerly properly functioning opening mechanism no longer works reliably and sometimes only opens half-way, opening the drivers door but not engaging the central locking. This used to be the case before i swapped the actuator for a new one, so how could I possibly be back at square 1 after these seemingly unrelated 'repairs'?

    Slowly losing it here...
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by elgolfo; 08-18-2018 at 08:06 PM.

  18. #43
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    Update: 1 hour later and suddenly both functions stopped working.

  19. #44
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    Look closely at the wiring where it flexes between (both) doors, the trunk-lid and the body. Broken wires in any of those locations can affect operation of the others.

    That may not be what's causing you problems, but I have encountered it on many occasions.

  20. #45
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    Ok, "news":

    I had someone lock and unlock from the outside while I would assist the lever that is being turned by the turn of the key. Everytime I assisted, it worked. Everytime I did not, it didn't work. The culprit seems to be that this little black grommet is loose and not holding the rod in place, thereby affecting the exact distance that the turn of the key would move the mechanism below.

    It looks like this grommet is not sold individually, can anyone confirm this is indeed not available as a single part?

    Screen Shot 2018-08-18 at 20.03.32.jpgScreen Shot 2018-08-18 at 20.03.09.jpg

  21. #46
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    Some BMW grommets do have PNs. like these I got for the clutch pedal spring:
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/35311113725/
    Hardware stores have selections of grommets that might fit.
    Last edited by Vintage42; 08-19-2018 at 08:09 AM.
    BMW MOA 696, BMW CCA 1405

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vintage42 View Post
    Some BMW grommets do have PNs. like these I got for the clutch pedal spring:
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/35311113725/
    Hardware stores have selections of grommets that might fit.
    The grommet for the throttle cable-end to the pedal is also relatively small__maybe the same one as the clutch pedal return spring__and available separately.

  23. #48
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    Just wanted to give an update to anyone who might experience such symptoms with their lock. It turned out that the grommet from the picture above was loose. That led to the small metal rod being pushed through the whole, which meant that the locking movement was no longer pulling the door luck up enough or pushing it down enough to unlock/lock it. Because I could not find the grommet, I just used some electrical tape and wound it around the rod, so that it can no longer move through the little whole. Ever since, I had no more problems at all. This can all be done without taking out parts of the window sliders.

  24. #49
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    Jan 2007
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    I have this problem (driver's door lock spinning). I can't find the parts that fell out. I see the replacement assembly appears to be available: https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/51218401623/

    BUT, it comes with new keys. Now, my 18 year old keys look like crap, and I wouldn't mind having new ones, but I'm going to bet that gets much more expensive and PITA factor goes up really quickly.

    What are my options for getting all four locks (trunk, ignition, glovebox--that all?) back on the same key if I install one of these new door locks?

  25. #50
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    I have been looking into this too since my driver's door lock is spinning. I was told you can't order this online because they will be selling you a door lock which uses your current key. They want you to order it in person so they can verify you actually own the car. I plan to go to my local dealer after Christmas and order the door lock and verify this is true. If anyone else has gone through this, please post and let us know how it actually works.
    2002 M Roadster, Steel Gray Metailic, Gray Nappa Leather, Black Soft Top, Steel Gray Metailic Hard Top, TC Kline Double Adj Shocks with H&R Springs, Stromung Exhaust, SSR Type C Wheels. Looking for a new home.

    2022 Z4 M40i, Misano Blue Metallic, Prem Pkg, Driver Assistance Pkg

    2023 X5 M50, Phytonic Blue, Black Extended Merion Leather, Driving Asst Pro Pkg, Park Asst Pkg, Exec Pkg, Climate Comfort Pkg.

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