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Thread: Auxiliary Fan write up

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Rural KY
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    2002 BMW 530i Sport

    Auxiliary Fan write up

    MODS PLEASE STICKY

    Thanks to E39Dream for helping me when i did it and being patient to answer my questions.
    DISCLAIMER:

    I am not responsible for any damages to your car upon using this or any other DIY write up. You assume all responsibility for damages or improper installation to your car.

    Hello,

    Here is a write up for a E39 Aux fan change. This was done on a 1999 528I and may differ slightly for your car.(resistors)

    Job difficulty
    2.5 wrenches out of 5.

    Tools Needed
    -1/4' ratchet
    -3/8' ratchet
    -8mm socket
    -10mm socket
    -13mm socket
    -Needle nose pliers
    -T45 torx bit
    -8' extension

    Parts Needed
    - Auxiliary fan assembly - see No. 5 in link below
    http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...32&hg=64&fg=55
    -Resistor No. 08 on link above.
    - 50 amp fuse
    - various fuses.
    - Rivets Nos. 22 and 31 ten of each
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...53&hg=51&fg=15
    before ANYTHING.
    Turn your ac on after your car has been operating for a while and is HOT
    60 degrees and wait, if fan turns your aux fan is fine, if not you have a problem.

    I have been told it can be your aux fan assembly itself, blow fuse, OR coolant temp sensor, or failed relay (ive been told this is very rare.)

    FIRST THING, check the fuses in your glove compartment,
    Fuses in glove compartment guide


    This is a pic of fuse 75 and 76 lookin lying down above into your glove compartment from the passenger side foot well. That panel needs to be pulled BACK towards the passenger side seat with SLIGHT pressure to the floor and should come out. THE AREA THAT 75 and 76 are in is circled. you will reach in there, and grab the fuse and push UP towards the sky and it will come out.

    Preparation

    park your car on a flat leveled surface or your driveway.

    put a blanket or sheet infront of your bumper, and set weights down so it doesnt fly away, i used my tool box.

    here we go!

    1-

    Use the 8mm bolt to remove the 4 bolts that hold the headlight. Make sure you remove the bulbs from the housing of the headlamp.
    there are 4 screws 2 on top and 2 on bottom.


    2-

    Remove 3 bolts from your wheel well, 1 above and 2 on bottom. refer below

    Top bolt


    Bottom bolt-the second one is just left to that, it may help to turn your tires side to side.


    3-
    Go and lie down on the sheet you just put in front of your front bumper.
    You will look above the grills in your bumper and see little buttons, these are the plastic rivets. MAKE SURE YOU BUY EXTRA ONES FROM THE DEALER. 10 OF EACH TO BE ON THE SAFE SIDE IS WHAT I DID.
    use the needle nose pliers and pull away the center pin, and pull out the rest of the rivet. there are about 4 rivets on each grill, pull them all out and pull away the grill.


    4-

    You will now see T45 torx bolt on the left of your license plate, and the right, the grill covered this area. Heres a pic
    find both and unscrew using the T45 bit.


    5-

    Disconnect fog lights from the back
    You should now be able to remove the bumper, MINE however was unremovable. so i had to remove the bumper shock absorber
    pictured below
    This isnt necessary to remove it, but if your having a tough time getting the bumper off, it helps.
    after you have done 1-5.
    have a friend support the bumper while you go to each side and SLIDE out the bumper from its track, it sits in a sliding track.



    6-

    This is what your car should look like now.


    7-

    Use a 10mm bolt and remove 3 bolts that hold this air snorkel.
    the next one is to the right UNDER the snorkel.
    last one is all the way to the right. cant miss it.




    8-

    Use the same method that you used for the grill on these plastic rivets
    Remove ALL 3



    9-

    This rivet holds the power supply to the Fan, disconnect the wire this wire from the fan assembly
    This is another rivet that i broke, but my dealer gave me a plastic zip tie and said this is better


    10-

    Remove 4 fan bolts, these are the 13mm bolts. there are 4. do the same on the opposite sides
    also remove the kidney shroud which you removed the 3 rivets from. BE VERY DELICATE WITH THE SHROUD it breaks easily.

    Front right

    front right bottom



    11-

    Gently remove the fan frame assembly. MAKE SURE YOU SEE EVERY LITTLE POINT IN TAKING IT OFF, THE NEXT ONE NEEDS TO BE MOUNTED ON EXACTLY THE SAME OR IT WONT WORK.

    Once removed, clean all the crap.
    (if you have a resistor now is the time to replace it use diagram to locate resistor, if its not there you dont have one.
    http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?...32&hg=64&fg=55 number 8)

    Hook up the fan, let the car run for a bit and see if the aux fan is working, there is no guarantee it will work, because the engine needs to be at a certain temp.

    Put everything back together again.

    Go to Autozone, buy R134a with a guage, turn ac on at 60 and fill the AC to the BLUE level of the guage.

    If after ALL of this your aux fan is not working, it could be the coolant temp sensor pictured below


    Buy soda, drink, and look at the progress youve made. and now
    Congratulations your Auxilary fan is now working. its better than paying 900 at the dealer right!

    Cost
    Aux fan assembly 297
    50 amp fuse 2 dollars.
    rivets about 3-5 dollars.
    coolant temp sensor 22
    resistors 60
    soda 1.39

    DISCLAIMER:

    I am not responsible for any damages to your car upon using this or any other DIY write up. You assume all responsibility for damages or improper installation to your car.

    QUESTIONS!?!?!

    Pm me.
    Last edited by SleekBMW; 05-13-2007 at 02:55 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    NW Indiana
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    m52 powered
    excellent work Sleek! thanks for taking the time to share your progress- you just saved e39 owners alot of money.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    2001 BMW 530i
    Nice write-up with good pictures. Thanks for documenting it for us.
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by e39dream View Post
    excellent work Sleek! thanks for taking the time to share your progress- you just saved e39 owners alot of money.
    Quote Originally Posted by Steve530 View Post
    Nice write-up with good pictures. Thanks for documenting it for us.
    Thank you much for appreciating it.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
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    Irvine, CA
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    1998 BMW 540i
    Thanks for contributing this. Beautifully done.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hotswimmer View Post
    Thanks for contributing this. Beautifully done.
    Your quite welcome

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    Canada
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    528
    I am going to be taking on this project this weekend for 97 528I
    2 questions

    1. If you have bad coolant temperture sensor your instruement cluster shouldn't work either?

    2.Where exactely is this resistor located? Under the shroud/side?

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shogunl View Post
    I am going to be taking on this project this weekend for 97 528I
    2 questions

    1. If you have bad coolant temperture sensor your instruement cluster shouldn't work either?
    I have never heard of this. i mean its worth just replacing, it is only like 25 dollars. So no biggy.
    2.Where exactely is this resistor located? Under the shroud/side?
    my car didnt have one, but they told me, when i was looking for it, its EXACTLY how it looks in the diagram.

    GL

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    Latvia
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    My Cars
    M3 EVO E36; 530D E39
    If after ALL of this your aux fan is not working, it could be the coolant temp sensor pictured below
    Is it for 1st speed? Should it be closed or opened (temp?)?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    Toronto
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    My Cars
    E46/E39 R1200GS

    Pusher Fan replacement

    Thanxs for the excellent write up it really made the job easy.

    After all that work my temperature sensor switch is faulty; when I plug in my pusher fan it runs continuously!

    BB

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2004
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    Ohio
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    540i/6, 02 Excursion Pow
    Very nice work. Well documented. The hardest thing to do when working on your car is to stop and take pictures. I always keep on moving and forget to take pics...

    Jared
    "If everything seems under control, you're not going fast enough. - Mario Andretti"

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Ottawa, Canada
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    My Cars
    '97 528, 2007 Cobra
    I couldn't find the motor at the local parts houses but found a cross reference to a Four Seasons model. Ordered from below and the Siemens motor showed up with the right pins on it and the hook up for the resistors. A plug and play replacement for much less than the complete assembly shown by most online places!

    I'm not allowed to post links yet but search for FS75720 at autopartswarehouse.com It's listed for a '97 740 but is the same as mine '97 528

  13. #13
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    2000 BMW 540iA
    Very nice writeup - thanks for taking the time to document it so well

  14. #14
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    Sav. Ga/Atl. Ga
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    E39
    This is EXACTLY what I need. Looking at the realoem link, #5 is $468.19...not $297..am I looking at the wrong thing? Thanks guys.

  15. #15
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    NJ
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    2002 530i S
    Quote Originally Posted by s car View Post
    This is EXACTLY what I need. Looking at the realoem link, #5 is $468.19...not $297..am I looking at the wrong thing? Thanks guys.

    I think that's too much money. My question is, can you use the DEPO fans on eBay for 139? My mechanic says the aux is 325 oem and that's what I should be using, but what happens if I save $186?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
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    Sav. Ga/Atl. Ga
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    E39
    I bought one of the ebay ones...I need to kick my cheap habits.

    The fan seemed of good quality. Not quite as good as the OEM one I pulled, but still a fan that blows cold.


    Like I said though, I need to kick my being cheap habits.

  17. #17
    Join Date
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    Houston, TX
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    BMW 528i, Scooter
    Does anyone know where I can get an aluminum one? I don't want to have keep replacing.....due to rocks cracking my stuff

  18. #18
    Join Date
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    98 540iA (Prd 11/97)
    Quote Originally Posted by stormyslaton View Post
    Does anyone know where I can get an aluminum one? I don't want to have keep replacing.....due to rocks cracking my stuff
    You could try my brother's Racing Mesh Upgrade...Inexpensive! retrofit. It looks better in black poly, but either aluminum or the poly will add additional protection from rock strikes.
    Last edited by jamesdc4; 07-26-2009 at 01:09 PM.

  19. #19
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    Dec 2008
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    Atlanta GA
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    1973 Plymouth Satallite

    Super Fast

    I took my time on doing this, and it took an hour and 10 min to remove all of the parts, and about 20 min to put it all back. This was a great write up and recommend follow the directions to the letter.

    I also took some time in fixing my head light adjusters(seeing that my headlights were already out) once I got through the first tab, that has a seal on it (top side) the rest popped right out, there is no glue to make it difficult to remove, and although I have read that there is glue holding the headlight together I would recommend checking first before you ruin your headlights, by doing something stupid like putting them in the oven. and drop in a silicon pack(got some from one of my wife's shoe boxes) to keep the moisture down, I was able to do the lights rather quickly, and adjusted the beams that evening.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
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    NorCal
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    03' zhp 6sp 99' 528iA sp
    you are a blessing, followed your instructions to a 'T' and the job was a breeze...done within 1.5 hours.

    And now I have AC!

    thanks!!

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
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    2001 530i sport

    Loose Bolt

    So this is my first DIY and I followed the instructions exactly. The job was pretty easy until I got to the nuts that hold on the fan. It's the last step where you have to remove the 4 nuts. Three came off with some difficulty (nuts were rusted to the bolt). The top right nut was completely seized to the bolt. I put so much force that the bolt began spinning. I tried everything but resorted to hacksawing off the nut. The bolt is still there and loose (spins freely but I can't take it out)...

    Has this happened to anyone? OR Any ideas about what i should do?

    It seems the bolt was welded to the frame during assembly which keeps it from spinning.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Wiltshire, UK
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    BMW 523i SE Petrol Touring 1998

    Post Quick and easy test for an E39 Auxiliary radiator fan

    If you need to quickly test your Auxiliary fan, I have just found a really easy trick.
    Assuming you have the radiator mounted temperature switch with 3 pins.
    (link to image courtesy of Activant)
    http://c2c.activant.com/ctoc/index.j...cKFxAxNFV1BhgA

    The switch is essentially two switches end and centre connected in series...
    .
    Something like: . _ \_|_ \_.
    (contact - switch - centre contact - switch - contact)

    So unplug the connector on your radiator, take 3 pins, insert 1 in each of the contact holes (they fit snugly).
    Make sure the pins do not touch any part of the car.
    Switch on the ignition, but don't start up the engine.
    Keeping hands clear of the auxiliary fan, pinch all three pins together to connect them.
    The fan will spring in to life if it is working!

  23. #23
    Join Date
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    2001 BMW 530i
    newbie here..

    I purchased a 97 528i (E39) needing just the Aux Fan replaced (apparently). I picked one up for $82 @junkyard from a 98 that ran but was there due to blown head gasket. Braved the DIY (thanks!) and tried after Fan replace w/bumbper still off. Fan worked to my excitement n joy and even A/C blew cold when it didn't before purchase. Put bumbper back together n me and my Honey went cruzin for another check but unfortunately exictement n joy didn't last as Temp gauge rose to Hot and stayed. Pulled over to check if Fan was working under hood and it was NOT. NOW WHAT?? Breaking down Bimmers isn't my thing...Honda's are but w/you'lls help and excellent write ups and pics I desperately need to keep the money I don't have in my pocket and out of Dealers!! If this is truely all wrong w/the car, I'd like to think I got a good one but I'm starting to question my judgement of buying a car already needing work!!! Who does that??? Duhhh! :- ) Thx. V/r -g

    EDIT: After posting, read more and went back out to check Fuse 75/76. Pulled it out, it looked fine although it did have sum light brown burn marks on the stems that I wiped off. Don't think that really matters as long as the "Z" zag (in middle) isnt broken. So popped Fuse back in and turned car on. After a few nothing. Turned on AC and after a few, the Fan fired up and stopped for 3 itterations. Turned off AC to see if Fan when come on by itself while idling. The Fan did not come on. and the Temp only rose to mid way (gauge) which I believe is fine. So the plan is to drive it today and see if little gremlins fixed it overnight while I dreamed of getting a pretty decent E39 cheap for a $82 fix!! We'll see (prayin hard within!)

    UPDATE: Crusin today was short lived as while driving the Temp gauge quickly went to hot. AC still blowing cold. Temp dropped at hwy speed momentarily but for the most part lived in the red. Didn't want to chance damaging somethin so took it back home and parked it. Here's more details to assist in helping me: Previous owner suspected Radiator and had Independant BMW Dealer replace radiator and coolant. They told him it needed the Aux Fan but already out $740 he didn't want to spend more knowing he wasn't keeping the car. Now that I've replaced the Aux Fan, what else could it be????? It appears to only work perfectly sitting in the driveway. It runs hot while driving. thanks for quick advice. V/r -g
    Last edited by gdharvey; 08-27-2011 at 11:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Even though I didn't recieve any input, wanted to update to help other lost souls like myself. Decided to try the Coolant Bleeding Procedure (in Forum). But today being Sunday, couldn't buy the OEM BMW Coolant. During reading I learned distilled water should be part of the 50/50 mix and since I'm only "topping off" (key) should be o.k. vice waiting until Monday to buy OEM Coolant. Well looking into the Resevoir Tank, it was way low and I actually used a whole gal of distilled water and a little from the 2nd gal I bought!!!! But the bleeding worked just the same as the bubbles worked out. Took it for a spin and the needle stayed at 12 noon as it should (local and Hwy). I think the Indy BMW shop previous owner used to replace the radiator and coolant slacked on the job if it was that low in coolant. Thinking about going to see them a let them know they owe me a bottle of coolant!! Now to go down the list of preventive maintance items to ensure peace of mind and longevity!
    Last edited by gdharvey; 08-29-2011 at 01:23 AM.

  25. #25
    Join Date
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    2001 BMW 540i M-Sport
    Great write up! I printed out the pics and used them as a step by step instruction manual! After carefully studying where all the screws and the like were i quickly got to work and knocked the whole project over in about 45mins! Majority of time was spent cleaning the condensor as those fans seem to suck up almost any road debris they can find (and im sure some small mammals lost their life, possibly even small children). Its a fantastic feeling to actually have working AC again. thanks!!

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