On the M3, if you unplug the ASC controller, the ABS light will come on because the ABS will be deactivated and you will lock up your tires and go off the track...........and come back on the track with flat-spotted tires.
I just cut the cable off and left the module in position, after I realized I had to have it connected. Had I read this thread, I would have left it disconnected and spliced in the resistor.
You know, a dead cap with the resistor built in, that you could just snap onto the connector..............
Can someone PLEASE confirm the colors of those ASC actuator wires? From the pics it looks like GRN/BLK/YELLOW and BRN/BLK/YELLOW... I'm trying to trace my way around the Bentley because my car doesn't have this plug!
That is correct. It never did. However, I swapped a S52 with DME and harness that came from a car with ASC, now my ABS is dead. So I need to fake an ASC delete, but I don't have the connection for the ASC THrottle Position Monitor.
I think I've finally figured out why. The 2 wires (BLK/GRN/YEL and BLK/BRN/YEL) go from the ABS slip control module (pins 21 and 20, respectively) to the ASC motor.
Since my car never had ASC and I'm using the original ABS module, I probably don't have these connections at all.
This means I must go directly to pin 20 and pin 21 of the connection to my ABS module and splice in a resistor there... In theory. *crosses fingers*
What really sucks is that the Bentley doesn't have ABS electrical wiring diagrams for my car (96 328 w/o traction control) so I can't compare what else is different and disable the ASC *properly*, i.e. replicate what a non-ASC wiring harness would look like to the modules.
Last edited by ClayMan; 04-27-2008 at 01:26 AM.
my 328 came without asc.
Hey - does anyone know if when I deleted the ASC and left the plug out ... did that cause a short on my motherboard on the gauge cluster and fry the thing? Or do I have something else going on?
Pic's here: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1073446
BryDog
BryDog
www.e46bmw.com
Here is a question. The ASC delete seems like a good idea, ignoring rubbish "statistics," but isn't ASC still active?
The ASC system doesn't just use a 2nd TB to gain traction, but also applies the brakes as well. In effect, it seems as though ASC will still be active, applying the brakes, but won't bog down the engine correct? I don't quite know the specifics of the ASC system.
From what I understand the ASC also works in conjucntion with the Anti lock braking, like you mentioned. ASC will advance timing in certain low speed situations due to bad road conditions. This is also in conjuction with the TB closing, which I have since removed the TB plate (training wheels). There is a summary of what ASC does in the Bentley. In my situation the second TB without the throttle plate isn't much of a restriction because I"m SC.
If I was NA I would have removed the whole thing, but kept it so I could put it back in if need be.
Then wouldn't this mod title be incorrect? It seems as though it is not a full ASC delete, but a partial ASC delete as the ABS portion of the ASC system is still intact and functioning, but the ASC throttle body is removed.
I didn't think the ABS was intact if you defeated the ASC, but I don't know for sure.
Last edited by shogun; 02-23-2017 at 08:33 AM.
If you piss off the ASC system (by removing/unplugging something) it gets a fault and doesnt operate. So by removing the entire ASC system you are disabling all its functions including the braking abilities (which i never even noticed before removal.).
oh and the ABS portion of ASC isnt really still there. Thats why you get an ABS fault without this mod. The ASC TB acutator triggers the "ASC braking" (which i still honestly dont believe exists) which you remove when you do this mod.
I've been messing with this for 7 Months now and decided this is the best way to go without having the ECU reflashed for ASC delete.
You can use a 10 Ohm 1/2 Watt resistor as well. What I used. No problem.
Sold 3/2010 due to economy
Dude - i really don't know what you guys are talking about....resistors and what not. Just unplug, swap out the tb with the mcoupe/roadster boot, zip tie out of the way. you get the asc light on until you decide to reverse it back, at which point everything goes back to normal the way it was....
I have since done the ASC delete, though I left the actuator plugged in instead of using a 10 ohm resistor to keep the ABS in tact. So far so good. I can also reverse the process if need be.
do you have LSD?
or why do people take off the ASC?
ok, thanks
i won't install it on my car then
I found this thread after an engine swap into an ASC-T car. My understanding is that if I don't bridge the two wires to the Throttle Actuator, I will lose ABS.
To help settle the geek BMW history arguement, this is in a 1994 325IS.
I also installed this mod at the switch: Shut off Automatic ASC+T at startup
If anyone tries that mod, it helps to know that the polarity of the capacitor is indicated by arrows on a stripe pointing to the negative terminal.
Top is: E104 Throttle Flap Heater
Middle is: M93 Auxiliary throttle position sensor
Bottom is: THROTTLE ACTUATOR.
Radio Shack doesn't have a large enough resistor. NTE makes a resistor that is 10 Ohms and 25 watts. I got it for a dollar at Fry's electronics. SKU# 7 68249 11042 2.
I used that metal sheet as a resting surface to do my sloppy soldering.
Last edited by DaveAZ; 03-10-2009 at 05:45 AM. Reason: Added a photo of the installed resistor.
Your idea is great, but as a bunch of people pointed out: if the car powers the circuit your 1 watt resistor should fry when 14.4 watts of power pass through it. I'd rather prevent that situation before I need to track it down later.
I'm not undrstanding that. You put 10 Ohms of resistance in the circuit so that the car will think the device is still there. If ASC+T is turned on, what is preventing the car from powering the throttle actuator, since it thinks it is still present?
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