DIY: Complete ASC delete with no ABS light/fault!

[busterhax]

Can you find information on this? Is it Eric's kit?

my friend has it. next time i see him i can ask. basically it moves the throttle thing over to the side and deletes the butterfly valve so it still actuates but theres no butterfly valve to turn. i was gonna try to make it myself and realized its pretty damn hard to make

[mgraney]

im using it, it hasnt burnt out at all. my abs light still comes on after driving for a couple of minutes due to other unknown reasons =(. apparently there is another asc delete kit that will keep the actuator and throttle cable, but throttle body will be removed. no abs light, and will still brake the rear wheels..dunno where its at though. i think its like 20 bucks. my friend has it on his m coupe

It isn't a kit. I just bought the silicone boot from bimmerworld and removed the ASC throttle body. I left the actuator there so my ABS still works.

[busterhax]

It isn't a kit. I just bought the silicone boot from bimmerworld and removed the ASC throttle body. I left the actuator there so my ABS still works.

read post 117...it is a kit. and is totally different than just replacing the asc tb with the non asc boot. no lights on dash with that KIT

[mgraney]

read post 117...it is a kit. and is totally different than just replacing the asc tb with the non asc boot. no lights on dash with that KIT

If you are going to leave the ASC throttle body there then that defeats the purpose of the ASC delete. Removing the butterfly will help some, but the actual ASC throttle body is smaller than the main throttle body, so it will still restrict airflow. If you want the full benefit of the ASC delete, you need to remove the whole thing. Yes your method of removing the butterfly will keep the dash light off, but the ASC is still gone. If you are that concerned about the dash light, then you could always just remove the ASC throttle body and keep it connected but off to the side. However the car will still try to activate the ASC and may apply braking to the wheels, which is undesirable. Of course you can press the button to turn off the ASC, but then you have a light on your dash!

[busterhax]

rofl dude READ!!! it uses the non asc boot. it moves the actuator over to the side, takes the top piece of the asc throttle body and moves it to the side(like strut tower side), but the big ass bottom piece(butterfly valve) is totally removed. so...the car thinks its restricting air to the car, but really all it is doing is tugging on a cable that does absolutely nothing. brakes still are applied...thats very good for people with an open diff. if that doesnt make any sense to you, i can take pictures, if that would make it easier for you

[mgraney]

No need to be rude. You weren't exactly clear in what you were saying before. I was under the impression that applying the brakes is bad. At least that's how I feel. The ASC on my car is completely worthless and I had no desire to keep any of its functionality. I think most people on this thread will agree that ASC totally sucks. That's why I didn't understand you wanted to keep the braking. But I guess that makes sense for you non-LSD guys. I don't needs pics from you. I am perfectly happy with my ASC delete. I left the actuator in place so I don't have the ABS light.

[dustent]

No need to be rude. You weren't exactly clear in what you were saying before. I was under the impression that applying the brakes is bad. At least that's how I feel. The ASC on my car is completely worthless and I had no desire to keep any of its functionality. I think most people on this thread will agree that ASC totally sucks. That's why I didn't understand you wanted to keep the braking. But I guess that makes sense for you non-LSD guys. I don't needs pics from you. I am perfectly happy with my ASC delete. I left the actuator in place so I don't have the ABS light.

Not everyone lives in California. Ever drive a m3 in 8" of snow?

This is for tonight:

A WINTER STORM TRACKING ACROSS THE CENTRAL MISSISSIPPI VALLEY INTO THE OHIO VALLEY IS EXPECTED TO BRING A SWATH OF HEAVY SNOW TO THE AREA. SNOWFALL RANGING FROM 4 TO 6 INCHES IN THE MONTELLO AND GREEN LAKE AREAS WILL INCREASE TO 9 TO 12 INCHES SOUTHEAST OF A LINE STRETCHING FROM PORT WASHINGTON TO MADISON TO DARLINGTON. THE MILWAUKEE METROPOLITAN AREA COULD SEE AROUND 12 INCHES.

I would really like to keep the braking portion of the traction control, but don't want the throttle flap.

[328iJunkie]

Not to start a shitstorm but i highly help the little braking ASC does will help at all in the Snow. ASC is a first gen traction control system that isnt really that good at all.

Make sure your LSD is up to par and throw some snow tires on that biach and youll be good. ASC wont get you any farther/keep you out of a ditch any more than you controlling your right foot will.

[busterhax]

No need to be rude. You weren't exactly clear in what you were saying before. I was under the impression that applying the brakes is bad. At least that's how I feel. The ASC on my car is completely worthless and I had no desire to keep any of its functionality. I think most people on this thread will agree that ASC totally sucks. That's why I didn't understand you wanted to keep the braking. But I guess that makes sense for you non-LSD guys. I don't needs pics from you. I am perfectly happy with my ASC delete. I left the actuator in place so I don't have the ABS light.

sorry didnt mean to come off as a total ass, i wasnt clear in the first place. but yeah, applying brakes is bad in some situations, definitely for lsd guys. but as for your actuator, in my car i took the actuator out and i still dont get the abs light, even without the resistor. i put the resistor in there just in case though. have you tried unplugging it to see if theres any dash lights?..other than the ASC light

[dustent]

Not to start a shitstorm but i highly help the little braking ASC does will help at all in the Snow. ASC is a first gen traction control system that isnt really that good at all.

Make sure your LSD is up to par and throw some snow tires on that biach and youll be good. ASC wont get you any farther/keep you out of a ditch any more than you controlling your right foot will.

I'm running Dunlop WinterSport D3s all around. The braking does help to keep the back end in line when driving at low speeds, and if you've never driven with ASC in the snow, you've probably never felt the braking part of ASC. My '97 318ti did NO braking, but my '99 m3 does. Weird.

[m3beemer16]

Slight clarification:

At least on the non-M, ASC was indeed offered on the '95 e36. Option code 214 (Automatic Stability Control+Traction).

wait? what?? If a 95 has ASC would it have the button to turn it off/on or its always on?? would it have the warning light when you are doing donuts??

I dont think mine has it.. How do I verify.
I am pretty sure it has a LSD though

[bmwpowere36m3]

ASC light goes on for 2 reasons:

1. ASC is OFF
2. ASC is not working (aka, ASC TPS Unplugged...like when you remove the ASC TB)

ABS light goes on for many reasons as well, here are 2:

1. Something in the ABS system isn't working (wheel speed sensors, etc...)
2. ASC actuator is unplugged (like when you remove the ASC actuator, but this can be remedied)

To execute a ASC delete properly there are THREE things you must do:

1. Rig the ASC circuit/switch to always turn ASC off when you start the car...follow these directions: http://www.jogger-egg.com/kbob/asc+t.html

This will prevent the ECU from kicking in the ASC TB & brakes.

2. Remove ASC TB & Actuator (optional)... basically remove ASC TB and replace with '98 M Roadster Boot. At the same time you can remove the ASC actuator so save some weight and clean up the area. To do so and not trigger the ABS light, you must wire in a 10 ohm, 1 watt resistor into the ASC actuator connector.

Finally if you did everything right, you won't have an ABS light, but you'll have a ASC light because two-fold...ASC is off because of the switch and ASC TPS is unplugged.

3. So, either live with the light or do like I did and remove the cluster and remove that single bulb. You'll never see that light, nor need to...

[328iJunkie]

I'm running Dunlop WinterSport D3s all around. The braking does help to keep the back end in line when driving at low speeds, and if you've never driven with ASC in the snow, you've probably never felt the braking part of ASC. My '97 318ti did NO braking, but my '99 m3 does. Weird.

Well also to be perfectly honest. I havent driven any of the cars I own in the snow. Let alone my E36 when it had traction control, So i guess i shouldnt really be talking seeing as i have no real experience. haha.

ASC light goes on for 2 reasons:

1. ASC is OFF
2. ASC is not working (aka, ASC TPS Unplugged...like when you remove the ASC TB)

ABS light goes on for many reasons as well, here are 2:

1. Something in the ABS system isn't working (wheel speed sensors, etc...)
2. ASC actuator is unplugged (like when you remove the ASC actuator, but this can be remedied)

To execute a ASC delete properly there are THREE things you must do:

1. Rig the ASC circuit/switch to always turn ASC off when you start the car...follow these directions: http://www.jogger-egg.com/kbob/asc+t.html

This will prevent the ECU from kicking in the ASC TB & brakes.

2. Remove ASC TB & Actuator (optional)... basically remove ASC TB and replace with '98 M Roadster Boot. At the same time you can remove the ASC actuator so save some weight and clean up the area. To do so and not trigger the ABS light, you must wire in a 10 ohm, 1 watt resistor into the ASC actuator connector.

Finally if you did everything right, you won't have an ABS light, but you'll have a ASC light because two-fold...ASC is off because of the switch and ASC TPS is unplugged.

3. So, either live with the light or do like I did and remove the cluster and remove that single bulb. You'll never see that light, nor need to...

See all thats true, but whats the purpose of doing the switch mod? its not like its working once you remove the ASC TB. You start the car, Car runs a quick diagnostics and gets a fault=> light comes on.

Oh and i realized i have the perfect solution. OBD1 conversion

[bimmer213]

I've done some meditating on this so I wanted to ask.

The ASC is obviously controlled by the ASC throttle body itself. So what is it that controls the +T (Traction Control) part? Is that what the actuator does?

I removed my ASC throttle body completely, but I still have the actuator plugged in. Does this mean that while my ASC is turned off, the +T (traction control) is still on and will still apply the rear brakes when needed?

[328iJunkie]

No.

[busterhax]

there is a sensor in the TB that can see if the TB butterfly valve is moving like it is supposed to be moving. if it isnt(your case) everything is shut off.
even though the actuator is plugged in, and trying to tug, the TB sensor sees that the TB isnt moving(because it is non existent in your case) so it shuts all ASC features off

[bimmer213]

Well when I last went to have my car dynoed, the car was applying my rear brakes and the ABS light would come on. If the entire ASC+T system were off, I don't understand why the car would still be applying the rear brakes.

[busterhax]

abs light should never come on, whether the ASC is functioning or not

[M///BMW]

k well ive read every single post here....

and im lost lol!..

if i put a resistor, and replace my ASC throttle body with new 90 degree pipe....it should alow air to slightly pass over it more cleanly....


ASC will still work, but it will only apply the brakes in the rear, not changing my throttle...though it may pull timming, and make my engine run lean..


So if i want to do a burnout, i still have to click my ASC button, turn my light on...

Am i right so far?

[328iJunkie]

Not at all.
If you remove the TB and do the resistor mod your ASC system is still running in fault mode IE not running at all. thus no brakes and no Timing pull or w/e.

[M///BMW]

Not at all.
If you remove the TB and do the resistor mod your ASC system is still running in fault mode IE not running at all. thus no brakes and no Timing pull or w/e.

so whenever u feel like it, u can rev to ~4k, drop your clutch, and spin in 1st?

and hold it without first hitting the ASC button?

[bimmer213]

abs light should never come on, whether the ASC is functioning or not

Well mine did, several times and the car applied the rear brakes, so what the heck gives

[busterhax]

you my friend are have something to worry about...my abs light comes on, but thats due to bad sensors.
seriously, your brakes should never be applied if you removed the asc system

[mpwr ren rebel]

Putting a 1 Watt resistor across the wires won't cut it. If the car tries to engage that actuator for any reason the resistor will fry. You will need at least a 15 Watt resistor. Here are the calculations:

I = V/R (I = 12/10 = 1.2A)
P = I*V (P = 1.2*12 = 14.4 Watts)

I recommend just leaving the actuator connected, ugly as it may be.

So what resistor would be best to get rid of the ABS light?

10 ohms 1 watt or 10 ohms 15 watt or something else?

[mgraney]

So what resistor would be best to get rid of the ABS light?

10 ohms 1 watt or 10 ohms 15 watt or something else?

It sounds like people are having luck with the 10 Ohm 1 Watt resistor. All I was saying is that this resistor is likely to burn out over time. To guarantee the resistor doesn't burn out, use a 10 Ohm 15 Watt resistor or leave the actuator connected.