I just replaced my motor mounts a couple weeks ago with the Vorshlag nylon motor mounts. You get significant vibration in the cabin at idle, but past 1000 rpm it's fine. the car feels solid and I feel more "connected" to the car. I don't mind the vibrations, but I have had some people say that the vibrations are a little much when sitting in traffic. I don't daily drive it so it doesn't matter.
I'm currently doing a clutch replacement and decided now would be a great time to replace the tranny and engine mounts. My M is a daily driver so id like for it to be smooth.
Why replace the mounts with the UUC mounts if it causes NHV? Whats the advantage of the UUC compared to stock replacement? And wheres just the best place to purchase these online.
1999 BMW E36 dakar M3
I had the same issue but even leaving the driver's side loosely bolted didn't help.
With the passenger side's nuts off and the engine supported I removed the aluminum bracket, swapped out the mounts and replaced.
This fixed about 80% of my 'chatter' issue that I've been chasing.
Nihil curo de ista tua stulta superstitione.
working on it right now and i'm stuck, literally. got all four nuts off am trying to jack the engine up but the whole car goes up, instead of just the engine. am i missing something?
could it be because i didn't remove the air box and other parts? i only took the four nuts off. anyone?
Last edited by poloniner; 02-21-2009 at 04:38 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Turner Perf Chip/Fan Delete/Sparco Strut Tower Brace/X-Brace/JTD Underpanel
Zimmerman X-D Rotors/Axxis Ultimate Pads/Solid Caliper Guide Bolt Bushings
UUC EVO3/DSSR SSK/3.15 LSD/Cosmos Racing CAI V2/ASC Delete
96+ M3 LCA/LCAB M3 RTAB and GC Shims
BMW OEM Alarm/Woodgrain Delete/Blizzaks baby!/16x7 BMW Style 30 Sport wheels
yes, i used a 2x4 with my jack under the oil pan. do i need to have both the front and rear jacked up? i only have the front up right now. about to go and jack up the back and see if that works.
well, i put the car up on all four's and everything loosened up and i was able to get the passenger side done. when i went to do the driver's side i noticed something weird, the bracket that is bolted to the engine was bolted but still moving freely. the darn bracket is broken. this is the bracket that holds the power steering reservoir to the engine. so i guess i need to hit up bmw for the bracket which is probably not in stock so i will have to wait for the part and won't be able to get the car back on the road .
anyone know how difficult it is do replace the bracket?
Last edited by poloniner; 02-22-2009 at 09:49 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
On a scale from 1 to 10. 10 being the hardest. What is the difficultly of doing this? I am pretty savvy when it comes to doing stuff like this.
Technically it's a one. Not the most pleasant task however. You will need the ratchet, extension, swivel set-up however. "Savvy" will not be enough
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...73&postcount=2
Last edited by hellrot325; 06-08-2009 at 02:40 PM.
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Turner Perf Chip/Fan Delete/Sparco Strut Tower Brace/X-Brace/JTD Underpanel
Zimmerman X-D Rotors/Axxis Ultimate Pads/Solid Caliper Guide Bolt Bushings
UUC EVO3/DSSR SSK/3.15 LSD/Cosmos Racing CAI V2/ASC Delete
96+ M3 LCA/LCAB M3 RTAB and GC Shims
BMW OEM Alarm/Woodgrain Delete/Blizzaks baby!/16x7 BMW Style 30 Sport wheels
Sweet write up. Thanks. Used this 2 years after your original post.
Here's a pic of the 177k mile ones we replaced. We used 4 6" inch extensions & didnt need to remove anything topside on the drivers side (i.e., we left the intake etc.). Also don't know if its M3 specific but our lower nut was a 17mm.
Thanks
M3 Sedan Club #8, 98M3/4 2005 One Lap Of America Completed in 1 piece UUC EVO3 ssk & clutch stop, UUC Sway barbarians, GC School/Track Coilovers, new OEM RTABs w/ GC shims, X brace
One Lap Pics
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Turner Perf Chip/Fan Delete/Sparco Strut Tower Brace/X-Brace/JTD Underpanel
Zimmerman X-D Rotors/Axxis Ultimate Pads/Solid Caliper Guide Bolt Bushings
UUC EVO3/DSSR SSK/3.15 LSD/Cosmos Racing CAI V2/ASC Delete
96+ M3 LCA/LCAB M3 RTAB and GC Shims
BMW OEM Alarm/Woodgrain Delete/Blizzaks baby!/16x7 BMW Style 30 Sport wheels
Just curious, the engine and the tranny are essentially 2 units bolted together to make one unit. Is it safe to say that if you keep the rubber OEM motor mounts, the tranny mounts should be the same? Same with poly? I heard some people using poly tranny mounts while keeping stock rubber motor mounts but wouldnt it (theoredically) put more stress on the poly tranny mounts then?
Youre supposed to use the same materials per the bushing, but many people mix and match.
2001 E53 X5 - 5.3 Procharged, 4L80E RWD, Brembo, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
2005 E53 X5 - 6.0TT, 4L80E RWD, 20" alloy, EBC race, Forge, A2W intercooled, Alcantara interior, 3.62 LSD and more!
1996 E36 335ti - N54b30, A2W intercooled, ZF 6speed rwd, 4.10Lsd, Speedline magnesium rims, Brembo, S55 exhaust, 245/40/17-295/30/18, idrive, Forge, logic 7
1999 E36 360ti - 6.0, ls6 springs, ls6 cam, hardened pushrods, trunion, racing baffle, t56, ls7 clutch, m3 brakes, 4.10lsd
I just replaced the mounts on my 330ci. COULDN'T get the passenger side mount to lift high enough to replace the mount (could get the old, compressed mount out, but the new uncompressed one wouldn't squeeze back in). I was actually lifting the entire front end of the car by the oil pan (oops, but didn't seem to hurt anything). I tightened down the other mount to hopefully rotate the engine a bit, but no improvement. In the end, I had to dremel off the tips of the bolts to squeeze the new one in.
I couldn't get the heat shield back in with it, though. How bad do you think it will be to not have the heat shield? Will it just age a bit quicker, or melt the mount within a month? Debating whether to bring to dealer to do correctly, or just live with it and see how it goes.
remember that have the heatsheilds on there for a reason. just my 2 cents.
I'm pretty much of the same opinion. At least I've been driving a few days on this without the heat shield and no signs of melting, though.
I must have had a brain freeze when I was doing this, because it was simple enough to cut a slit in the heat shield so that I can slip it across the stud, rather than going over it. I should be able to jack it up just a bit and slip the heat shield on now.
Do you have to remove the MAF and the rubber boot in order to get the engine high enough to remove the mounts?
I highly recommend using an engine support brace as opposed to a jack
1) you would be lifting by an aluminum pan (not TOO big an issue but it is cast aluminum)
2) if you need to wiggle the motor to get the motor mount studs to leave the motor mount arms, it's safer to do so with a support brace
Harbor Freight has an engine support brace they'll sell you for 60 bucks...... worth every penny
-Rich-
I had the same problem as some of you with the passenger side not lifting up enough for the new mount to go in.
I put the nuts on the driver side mount loosely as suggested on here but still ended up having to dremel the tip of the bottom stud off and then i used my 6" extension to pry the mount up enough (once the top stud was already in its hole) to allow the bottom stud to slide into the hole. It took a few tries but it finally dropped... .
Great DIY btw.
OP - thanks for taking the time to take the pictures and post the DIY.
A few comments (may have been addressed but I'll give my experience here):
1) Driver's side was super easy compared to passenger side. Passenger side was a total nightmare on mine becuse I couldn't get the PS engine up high enough to insert the new mount. The studs on the new mounts were about 1/4" longer on each end so once I got the passenger side mount out I couldn't get the new one it. Turns out it was _significantly_ easier once I loosened the cast alumninum motor mount arm that the rubber mount bolts to.
2) I didn't have to remove anything in the engine compartment. That part was easy.
Turns out my old mounts were in good shape but at least now I know that it's got good mounts.
Cheers,
Jeff
Just did it <boom>
Work time was 1 hour, start-to-finish thanks to my electric impact for nut removal and my torque wrench for nut installation. That and I now have a large selection of impact extensions.
Advise for others: GET THE ENGINE SUPPORT! $90 for a real nice one from Northern Tool. Besides, you'll use it again when you install your clutch...
Thanks Hellrot!
\/\///eidner
'13 135i
'07 Lexus IS 350 <MEH>
'98 M3 Sedan <SOLD>
'05 Mini Cooper S <SOLD>
I did this on my old 95 325 last summer. This was a car that I had to fight with to get almost every exterior nut and bolt off so I was very leary about attempting this and running into issues. The Motor mount nuts were very rusty so I sprayed Penetrating fluid on them top and bottom and let it sit overnight. I even went out a few hours after spraying them and sprayed again. I jacked the engine up using a 2x4 on the oil pan. The whole job took about an hour. I used 1/2" sockets and drive so I could get as much torque on them as possible when I was removing the nuts. Actually the hardest part was getting the heat shield situated correctly on the passenger side motor mount.
Anyone attempting this needs to make sure that curved heat shield is installed with the new passenger side mount. If you don't the heat from the exhaust will melt the mount in short order.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
Did my passenger side motor mount yesterday, so I'll post my experiences in this great thread.
Time needed: 45 minutes (only passenger side)
Snags: as some others have found, there was enough room to get the old mount out, but not enough to get the new mount in. I unbolted the bottom nut on the driver's side almost all the way to give it more room, but the exhaust midpipe (328) was pinching the heat insulation next to the transmission and it would not go higher. I sawed off the end of the bottom stud on the new mount. It has a pin extending from the threads to help lining it up, but lining it up is really not a problem so you can save about 4mm in clearance without losing a single thread from the stud.
Effect: it did not cure my 2nd gear top end vibration completely, but the gearshifts have become a lot more positive. Apparently the engine was twisting at the reapplication of throttle after a gearshift, which made them feel more brutal and awkward.
The old one didn't look very bad, mind you. No outward signs of damage.
This may be old but it really helped me out, I was shocked by how bad mine were...
Another update.
The combined motor mount/trans mount upgrade to M3 mounts did wonders for the poor clutch feel and sloppy shifter I've always had since I got the car with 30K on it.
Highly recommended.
Bleed your cooling system http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1709482The ULTIMATE OEM Alarm/Keyless thread http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum....php?t=1792200
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