Alright, so I need to replace my front CAs and bushings. After many thoughts and feedback about aftermarket front CAs and bushings, I've decided to just swap with the OE parts. BTW, I drive a 95 M3.
What do you guys think? Stout enough? Or do you guys think I should still consider some performance parts for these?
I asked my mech and he said the OE parts for the 95s are pretty solid and strong, he recommends I stay with the factory parts...what do you all think?
Thanks in advance guys...
-Levik
I always tell the truth, even when I lie.--Scarface
Your mech is right. 95's came with robust front c/a bushings. In retrospect, I don't think stiff poly bushings are worth the trouble and NVH. I've had both Powerflex and RTRS Inc units.
Us 96+ guys have a different issue. Our cars use a softer bushing (due to window-like cutouts). The solution is stiffer aftermarket or use of nearly concentric solid rubber bushings from an M Coupe (or so I've been told).
In the slow lane
Oh, and for control arms, just get OE as well. The only option you have are the aluminum E30 units. I highly doubt you could ever detect the lb or two weight savings.
In the slow lane
The OE control arms for the 95 are aluminum right? Do I have to get new aluminum OE control arms?
Or should I just get new OE bushings? Thanks Jeff...
-Levik
I always tell the truth, even when I lie.--Scarface
What I mean is, do I have to replace the OE control arms? Since they're aluminum, they don't fail right?
-Levik
I always tell the truth, even when I lie.--Scarface
OE on a 95 are steel. E30 M3's use aluminum.
You have to replace the entire control arm if your ball joints are shot. Any vertical play, and you really need to replace the whole unit. On our cars, the ball joints are integrated with the control arm.
The bushing is at the aft end of the arm. They get worn out and need replacing from time to time, but stock units are fairly robust, though still considered a wear item.
In the slow lane
I'll just replace the entire unit......control arms and their bushings..
Jeff, as always, thanks a lot...you're a god!!!!!
-Levik
I always tell the truth, even when I lie.--Scarface
Well, that's what the ladies say. . . .LOL
In the slow lane
E30 aluminum are within a few dollars of the cost of E36 M3 steel. They look pretty when they're new and clean, and they do weigh a few pounds less. From all reports, they're pretty durable too.
With either setup, you'd want to get the '95 M3 offset bushings as well. I'd say stick with OEM there too.
93 325is - total M3 conversion and more - Dinan SC kit - RMS aftercooler and tuning - 395rwhp on 91 octane.
"....She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, kid. I've made a lot of special modifications myself." -Han Solo
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What is the beth method for removing the nut that is right behind the motor mount on the front subframe. Or should I also say which tool, as fitting a socket back there seems impossible.
__________________
2007 GT3: GT Silver, PCCB, Sharkwerk'd
There are guys who are afraid of the rev limiter and there are guys who use it to save a shift
Plural??? ;-)Originally posted by frayed
Well, that's what the ladies say. . . .LOL
Frayedy, did you get the offset style bushing? Somewhere in the archives I read that someone lost tire clearance due to increased caster. Did you see much change?
TYE, how are the Hiop camber plates holding up?
I will most likely order a set this week. I plan to take a bunch of pictures and measurements before and after the install. An aquantance has just been set up as a dealer here in Houston.
Kenny...
"...and despite your rather demented sense of humor, poor board manners, and general attitude, you drive well."
Hiop coilovers are holding up just fine. You will be happy with their products.
__________________
2007 GT3: GT Silver, PCCB, Sharkwerk'd
There are guys who are afraid of the rev limiter and there are guys who use it to save a shift
Your talking about the nut that holds the control arm to the subfreame right? If so I was able to get it off by using a really long extension and a universal joint on the socket. You can get to them from above the engine bay.Originally posted by TYE
What is the beth method for removing the nut that is right behind the motor mount on the front subframe. Or should I also say which tool, as fitting a socket back there seems impossible.
Kenzomatic... I was talking about that last night with Jay from Ground Control. With a 96+ M3, the offset bushings will move your wheels forward where they may not fit the wheel well any more. He recommends the M Coupe solid concentric bushings. I got Powerflex concentric bushings from Bimmerworld but haven't installed them yet.Originally posted by Kenzo
Frayedy, did you get the offset style bushing? Somewhere in the archives I read that someone lost tire clearance due to increased caster. Did you see much change?
Blue 2002 540i/6
Former Arctic Silver 1998 M3 Track Car
Shopping for new track car!
Guys, how much are the 95 control arms???
For the OE bushings, the car quoted me at $94.
How much are the OE control arms for 95s?? Thanks in advance...
-Levik
I always tell the truth, even when I lie.--Scarface
If you're buying the control arms from a discount parts place, make sure that you're getting a good brand, like Lemforder. There are a lot of manufacturer's that make OEM suspension parts for BMW's, but some are better than others. Lemforder is one of the best brands. Meyle isn't as good, but that's usually what you get if you shop for the cheapest price. I'd pay the extra few bucks and get the better brand.
Jim
Jim O.,
Do you know how much the OE front control arms for the 95s are?
My cousin has a dealership and he's buying from the BMW dealership they always buy from.....but do you know how much the front CAs cost?? Thanks..
-Levik
I always tell the truth, even when I lie.--Scarface
Why don't you go to Zygmunt's web site, or the Ultimate Garage's web site, or any of the other parts houses web sites, and look it up? Or pick up your phone, and call a few dealers, BMPD, Bavarian Autosport, and ask? Or ask your cousin?
Sheesh - 10 minutes of research should answer your question far better than asking all of us over and over and over again.
Jim
M3inSC, thanks for the offset information.
I'm going to try the Hiop camber plates and I don't know if I'll lose any caster. If I do I'l try the offset bushings
Do you have the proceedures for installing the Powerflex bushings? Do you need a press and glue?
Kenny...
"...and despite your rather demented sense of humor, poor board manners, and general attitude, you drive well."
Hey M3inSC and frayed,Originally posted by M3inSC
...He recommends the M Coupe solid concentric bushings. I got Powerflex concentric bushings from Bimmerworld but haven't installed them yet.
I am willing to be the tester for these infamous MZ3/Coupe bushings but I've run into a snag! I checked the ETK and it shows the same part # (31 12 9 069 035) for the M Coupe, M Roadster and all '96> E36 M3s. Can this be?!??! Anyone know whats going on?
:Originally posted by Jim O.
Sheesh - 10 minutes of research should answer your question far better than asking all of us over and over and over again.
www.understeer.com Your source for:
Stromung|UUC|Eurosport|Hawk|H&R|Koni|Apexcone HID|Short Shift Kits|and moreUUC Evo3 SSKs are IN STOCK - free 2-Day shipping!
You guys are right. I just gotta ask everybody here to make sure. It's a disease I guess. 99% of the time I know the answer myself, I just have this obsessive compulsive thing that I HAVE to ask a millions times the same f'ing question or questions to make sure 200%......
Sorry Jim and bimmer95...
-Levik
I always tell the truth, even when I lie.--Scarface
R332, I haven't check the ETK yet, but I'll hunt around. I can tell you with a certainty that mine have the window cutouts that make the bushings softer.
The powerflex units added NVH to a noticable, but not particularly objectionable, degree. I split mine in half (both of them) in a little off roading adventure. I contend the stock ones would have never split
As for eccentric bushings, M3inSC has it right. . . that's why I was hoping that the Mcoupe units would work. But, I think Kenzo has the right plan. If you lose caster with adjustable camber plates, add 95 eccentric bushings to get it back. I'd do the same, but I'm too lazy right now to mess with camber plates, as I have the swapped strut hats in place right now.
In the slow lane
Ahh, no problem... you just gotta relax a littleOriginally posted by LeVik
Sorry Jim and bimmer95...
www.understeer.com Your source for:
Stromung|UUC|Eurosport|Hawk|H&R|Koni|Apexcone HID|Short Shift Kits|and moreUUC Evo3 SSKs are IN STOCK - free 2-Day shipping!
If you lose caster from camber plates, it is coming from the top of the struts. Your wheels are in the same place. If you switch to the the eccentric bushings, you gain caster by moving your wheels forward. I think that is why Jay said the wheels may not fit correctly in the wheel wells. I can get 6.5 degrees caster with my GC camber plates and Jay said that was plenty.Originally posted by frayed
As for eccentric bushings, M3inSC has it right. . . that's why I was hoping that the Mcoupe units would work. But, I think Kenzo has the right plan. If you lose caster with adjustable camber plates, add 95 eccentric bushings to get it back. I'd do the same, but I'm too lazy right now to mess with camber plates, as I have the swapped strut hats in place right now.
As for the M Coupe bushings, I think they are solid hard rubber instead of the softer stock bushing. Could the part number be different for a 2000 or 2001 M Coupe?
Blue 2002 540i/6
Former Arctic Silver 1998 M3 Track Car
Shopping for new track car!
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