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Thread: S50 Power Gains with Mods...PLEASE HELP

  1. #1
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    S50 Power Gains with Mods...PLEASE HELP

    I have recently purchased a 1995 M3 5 spd with some mods done to it...It's got

    Jim Conforti Intake
    3.5" HFM
    Turner Motorsport Chip
    Lighten Flywheel
    Stage 2 Clutch
    Koni Coilovers
    Rogue Engineering Catback Exhaust

    Question I have is that I took it to the track couple weeks ago and ran a 14.6. I ran against a stock 98 M3 and he was able to do a quater mile in 14 flat. The car is still very new to me and I was probably not lanuching it right but damn, with all the mods I have against a stock m3, I thought I will be closer to his time if not faster. Any input? I'm a newbie so please help me!!

    Also, could there me any maintenance items I should change out that could be robbing power from me? I put in new oil, fuel filter, and spark plugs however I installed denso iridium...are these bad for the car? Are there anything else that I should do? o2 sensors, etc?? Please let me know. Thanks

  2. #2
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    Change the plugs, and just get used to it. I wouldn't do any other mods. When you get the hang of it should easily high 13's
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
    ― George Orwell

  3. #3
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    GG///M3,

    I read alot of post about using stock plugs or ngks. I will go back to those. You think I should change out the o2 sensor too?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by leejj80 View Post
    GG///M3,

    I read alot of post about using stock plugs or ngks. I will go back to those. You think I should change out the o2 sensor too?
    Check if they're even bad first. But if you have the money, replacing them can't be bad

  5. #5
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    dyno the car..most place should be about 70 or 80 bucks for 3 pulls and an a/f mixture reading..

    how many miles on the car?

    my guess would be 220, maybe 225 whp

    i dunno how strict indiana is about emissions, but headers and track pipe would help the car breath better..

    before doing any mods though, make sure all maintenance is up to date..

    mods i would suggest are maybe a short shifter, your clutch can handle stage 1 supercharger or turbo..so thats something to consider at some point

    if you dont have a code being thrown, or a check engine, the car is fine.. you are still new to it, so after a couple months go back to the track and i guarantee your time will be better..

  6. #6
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    I would add larger injectors which would of course mean a new chip. I would also add a track pipe or obd-2 cat midsection. BBTB and 3.5 inch intake elbow can also be added for minimal gains.

    1988 E30 M3-Garage Queen
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  7. #7
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    you may just be no good at 1/4 mile. post up the time slip (or at least the info from it) that will tell a better story.
    do you even know what a plethora is?

  8. #8
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    Thank you all for all your replies...I did use the gas padel technique to pull fault codes and it does show the 1226 code which is the knock sensor code. Funny thing is, the check engine light never blinked. I posted something about this fault code and was told that I should not worry about it since the check engine light never blinked when I'm driving. Any input on this?

    Also, what kind of injectors should I go with. I have the pale green tops which I know is the stock injectors for the M3. Should I go with the 21.5? If so, do I need a new chip? What kind of BBTB should I go with? I read something about the BBTB from West Coast Riots, are those any good?

  9. #9
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    i would never waste money 24lbs injectors unless you going to get cams soon. I had a euro hfm with 24lbs on 1 car and it lost a good amount of tq about 11 rwtq. If you were want to go bigger for whatever reason get stock 96-99 m3 injectors, AA sells the tune for them. If your going to get cams in the near future they are not worth it at all. BTw when i get the chance i will dyno my 95 m3 which has just a AA track pipe and stock tune with stock intake, then i will dyno it with the 3.5 hfm with the tune for it. I also really dont think i'm going to stay N/A with my car. Having gone with cams you get used to the power to fast.
    “If liberty means anything at all, it means the right to tell people what they do not want to hear.”
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  10. #10
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    if you are getting a knock sensor acting up that is good reason for the low performance on the car. if the car is pulling timing to reduce a knock that is not present you will lose power.
    do you even know what a plethora is?

  11. #11
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    what is the gas pedal technique to pull fault codes anyways?

  12. #12
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    dont get the injectors..your car will most likely run rich, which is no good..your cats will prematurely wear..

  13. #13
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    I heard that an o2 sensor, spark plugs, and fuel can cuase the knock sensor fault code. I only pull in 93 octane so I don't think it's the fuel. I'm installing oem spark plugs soon. Is it possible for the o2 sensor to be bad and not throw a code? My car has 68,000 miles on it. Should I change out the o2 sensor due to the fact that I don't know when it was last changed? I want to eliminate possibilities first before I change out the actual knock sensor #2. The car do seem like it's running fine though and like I said before, the fault code only shows up when I pull codes and the cel never blinked anytime i'm driving. Thanks.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by leejj80 View Post
    I heard that an o2 sensor, spark plugs, and fuel can cuase the knock sensor fault code. I only pull in 93 octane so I don't think it's the fuel. I'm installing oem spark plugs soon. Is it possible for the o2 sensor to be bad and not throw a code? My car has 68,000 miles on it. Should I change out the o2 sensor due to the fact that I don't know when it was last changed? I want to eliminate possibilities first before I change out the actual knock sensor #2. The car do seem like it's running fine though and like I said before, the fault code only shows up when I pull codes and the cel never blinked anytime i'm driving. Thanks.
    im at 72,200 miles and i believe am on original o2 sensor.. the o2 sensor trips a code and check engine light, im getting really bad gas mileage and was trying to figure out the cause, but ive ruled out the o2 sensor because of that

    there is a slight decrease in fuel mileage as the o2 sensor goes out, but its not enough to easily notice..so i dont think your performance would change that much

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