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Thread: Need help on A/C with LS1 E36 swap

  1. #26
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    Use the GM compressor with BMW components: Receiver/drier, condenser, evaporator. Assuming that the Z3 uses "block-style" fittings or threaded fittings on the hoses that interconnect the various parts of the system, see if the same kind of fittings are available from DocsBlocks.com Or you can go to an A/C shop and have them figure it out for you.



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  2. #27
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    ^^^I think that's what I've decided to do. Would it work just connecting it together like that, or would I need to get the PCM reprogrammed with regards to the compressor speed?


  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by RahgBag View Post
    ^^^I think that's what I've decided to do. Would it work just connecting it together like that, or would I need to get the PCM reprogrammed with regards to the compressor speed?
    If you are using the GM compressor on the LS1 then the compressor speed wouldn't be an issue.
    4 out of the 5 voices in my head say....go for it!

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by RahgBag View Post
    ^^^I think that's what I've decided to do. Would it work just connecting it together like that, or would I need to get the PCM reprogrammed with regards to the compressor speed?
    The GM PCM controls the compressor and the fans. No need to do anything at all re: PCM programming, etc. Just install a GM 3-wire pressure switch in the line in between the condenser and the receiver, and plug in the GM engine harness.



    E30-LS1 Swap Guide and Kits, email us at e30ls1@gmail.com !!! or check our website e30ls1.wordpress.com

  5. #30
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    Hey people, the weather is changing for the better so I'm going to bring this thread back from the dead...as I have 2 LS1 swaps that will be treated to some a/c this season! Basic question first off....I have the LS1 compressor in it place, purchased new...however I have no lines....which port on the compressor itself is the high side and which is the low side? cant really tell by looking at it....I will be getting some lines made however I'm not even sure which hole does what lol

  6. #31
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    its a long tail of the answers if still you have not found solution meet some mechanic.

  7. #32
    M5Hunter is offline 800 Wheel Torques Supporting Vendor
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    Trying to get my a/c set up to work and running into an issue. I have the pressure switch bypassed(jumped the high pressure side) and am able to engage the compressor using the hptuners vcm scanner. But I can not engage the compressor by putting +12v to the green/white a/c request wire, in the red ECU connector, pin 17. Any ideas?

  8. #33
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    did you try grounding the compressor instead of feeding it 12v?

    depending on what you've changed/routed and where you're trying to tap into the wiring it might be the opposite of what you're thinking it is

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by 357i View Post
    Trying to get my a/c set up to work and running into an issue. I have the pressure switch bypassed(jumped the high pressure side) and am able to engage the compressor using the hptuners vcm scanner. But I can not engage the compressor by putting +12v to the green/white a/c request wire, in the red ECU connector, pin 17. Any ideas?
    >putting +12v to the green/white a/c request wire, in the red ECU connector, pin 17.
    This is correct.

    However, the LS1 A/C pressure switch is more than just on/off and jumpering it will not work. The ECM will not engage the compressor clutch if the pressure signal is too high or too low. Commanding the a/c clutch on in HPtuners gets aroung this and is why that works for you.

    Figure out which wire from the pressure switch is signal into the ECM (if I had my diagram handy I could tell you). The other ones will be 5V source from the ECM and low reference (ground) from the ECM. Increase voltage into that signal wire from 0V, not to exceed 5V. Assuming your A/C request signal and everything else is wired correctly, this will eventually cause the compressor clutch to turn on.

    But if you are more mechanical:
    Put a piece of fuel line on the end of the pressure switch with a hose clamp and hook the other side up to an adjustable pressure source. Assuming your A/C request signal and everything else is wired correctly, increasing the pressure will eventually cause the compressor clutch to turn on. Don't point the switch at anyone because it will shot out like a bullet if your connection isn't tight enough. Somewhere around 40psi will probably be sufficient.

    In either case, running the compressor without oil is a great way to kill it.


  10. #35
    M5Hunter is offline 800 Wheel Torques Supporting Vendor
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    did anyone pay attention to the proper lbs of refrigerant the system took with the LS1 compressor?

  11. #36
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    I had them fill it to the m3 stock fill and then came back and they pressure tested everything and they said it was right where it should be.

    so whatever the bmw needed stock is good

  12. #37
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    anyone can draw some scheme with pictures how to make a/c working? A picture is worth a thousand words.
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ocrvaw3d4UM Dont drive over limited speed!!! Drive safely......

  13. #38
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    +1
    The Golden Rule of Wheels: Strong, cheap, light... pick two.

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  14. #39
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    too lazy to go find it and repost it but I covered it in pretty good detail in my thread

  15. #40
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    Has anyone been able to retain the full functionality of the BMW integrated climate control? I've been pouring over the ETM and there seems to be a lot of parts of this system that tie back to the DME.

    I'm planning on using the GM compressor and GM pressure switch but it seems as though I should also keep the BMW pressure switch in line to provide information to the automatic climate control module. Further more I can't find which wire from the car to use as the AC request signal to the GM compressor clutch.

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by lovnbmws View Post
    Has anyone been able to retain the full functionality of the BMW integrated climate control? I've been pouring over the ETM and there seems to be a lot of parts of this system that tie back to the DME.

    I'm planning on using the GM compressor and GM pressure switch but it seems as though I should also keep the BMW pressure switch in line to provide information to the automatic climate control module. Further more I can't find which wire from the car to use as the AC request signal to the GM compressor clutch.
    You can retain all of the BMW system- compressor, condenser, lines, dryer, etc. Use a 318I compressor, a mounting kit from New Age Hot Rods, and figure out your signal wire accordingly. I did it on my 95, as far as climate control etc you may be in for a bit more fun.

  17. #42
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    you keep the BMW Pressure sensor in the mix and it doesn't cause any problems (as long as you fill it to stock BMW level range - the compressors operate in compatible ranges)

    the big thing the auto climate control needs is the speedo signal - which is fine as long as you get it to the dash (and you wouldn't be removing it anyways) will work fine. the other wires to and from the DME are for turning the AC on and off and making sure its actually enabled - you can see that in the ETM manuals

  18. #43
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    Hi unnatrl, I’m really don’t want to spend more money on new brackets and sourcing a 318 compressor. I have the GM compressor that came with my engine package and it should fit with the Vorshlag kit. Others here have made this combination work I’m just trying to flush out a few more details. But if all else fails I may investigate the 318 route. Thanks for your input.

    Hi Tongboy, I see the speedo signal is connected to the automatic climate control module via the body harness so that should not be a problem. Am I correct in assuming that connector x1527 pin 10 “RPM speed increase” from the automatic climate control module is the correct signal for turning the AC on/off? I’ve attached a schematic of the BMW system, the GM system and my plans for the integrated system. Pleases let me know if I am making the correct assumptions.

    Edit: one other question... should I change fuse F39 7.5A to 15A like the GM system?





    Last edited by lovnbmws; 11-14-2011 at 01:04 AM.

  19. #44
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    I've come across a few notes stating that LS1 A/C request signal C230-F needs 12v. Is this true? Does the BMW automatic climate control module X20-6 “RMP speed increase” signal supply 12v or does it need to run through a relay to provide the 12v?

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by lovnbmws
    I've come across a few notes stating that LS1 A/C request signal C230-F needs 12v. Is this true? Does the BMW automatic climate control module X20-6 “RMP speed increase” signal supply 12v or does it need to run through a relay to provide the 12v?
    You have to employ a reversal relay, BMW enables on ground (normal) and gm enables ac on 12v(all other systems enable on ground) so you fan wire all of it up and everything will work but the AC compressor will be on when the climate control light is not lit, aka backwards

  21. #46
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    How does the A/C work on the BMW's - is anything DME-controlled? If not, you should be able to just wire power to the GM compressor, and get custom lines made. Thankfully, it IS that easy on my Volvo.

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tongboy View Post
    You have to employ a reversal relay, BMW enables on ground (normal) and gm enables ac on 12v(all other systems enable on ground) so you fan wire all of it up and everything will work but the AC compressor will be on when the climate control light is not lit, aka backwards
    So I should put a reversal relay between x20-6 and c230-f?

    Last edited by lovnbmws; 03-26-2012 at 11:08 AM.

  23. #48
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  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by rao View Post
    From an old e-mail:


    "I spent a lot of time learning about LS1 AC - I solved this problem in my last Mazda and got it to work perfectly using the LS1 computer. There is one tricky piece that you need but then it is easy. I was surprised at how little info there was about this, even when I called a bunch of hot rod AC places.

    The way to do it is to use a stock chevy pressure sensor - ACDELCO Part # 155742 {#22664328} http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...rtNum=22664328

    The hard part is that the pressure sensor needs a "special" port, which I have only found at Docs Blocks, it is their part number AC0146. http://docsblocks.com/search_results...earch&iLevel=1

    That fitting needs to be brazed into the high pressure line - on the Camaro it is pretty close tot he firewall so if it will fit there in the BMW the wires will not have to be extended. Alternatively it can be placed close to the dryer. The other alternative is to use a different drier but that is a lot harder to do because all of the lines have to be changed. If you are having lines made then just have the fitting brazed into place.

    Once you have the fitting the wiring is pretty straight forward, there are three other AC wires for the LS1 PCM:

    1. AC Request wire needs +12 V INTO the PCM - this is the way that the PCM knows that you want AC

    2. AC Clutch wire needs to be used to ground the relay that throws power to the AC clutch - this is the way the PCM turns on the compressor, when it wants the compressor ON it allows this wire to go to ground.

    3. AC Status wire needs to be spliced into the +12v that is going to the AC compressor clutch - this is how the PCM knows that when it is asking for the clutch to be in it actually is turned on.


    Here are some links to some discussions about this (you have to sort through a lot of nonsense) but the goodies are in there:

    http://www.torquecentral.com/showthr...&highlight=pcm

    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524068 "


    You want to use the LS1 compressor and BMW condenser, evaporator and drier.
    Old link is dead. Anyone know where this fitting can be sourced?

    - - - Updated - - -

    Or better yet. How have the recent E36/LSx swaps been getting their A/C working?
    2016 4Runner TEP
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  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by GG Allin View Post

    Or better yet. How have the recent E36/LSx swaps been getting their A/C working?

    I have a thread somewhere on what I did... and I'm using a CANbus E38 PCM, so things aren't as hunky dory. But it's quite functional and wicked ice cold and still digital controls.
    1998 M3 Sedan - LS3 M12T56 - E38 PCM w/ AC and DBW. 420rwhp.

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