Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 55

Thread: Need help on A/C with LS1 E36 swap

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Dublin, VA
    Posts
    1,808
    My Cars
    E46, E53, E90, GSXR, MR2

    Need help on A/C with LS1 E36 swap

    I have been planning an LS1 E36 swap for some time now. I have collected a number of parts already and with any luck will soon be doing the swap. The questions I have for those that have already done it is:

    What is needed to hook up the A/C?
    Did you use the BMW condenser of the F-body condenser?
    What about the expansion valve and accumulator?
    I would expect that the evaporator used is the E36. Is this right?
    Did you make or buy (if so where) the A/C lines?
    How well does the A/C perform?

    I'm determined to figure a way to get A/C in this car. Any tips would be very helpful.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Naperville, IL
    Posts
    2,462
    My Cars
    1998 540i
    From an old e-mail:


    "I spent a lot of time learning about LS1 AC - I solved this problem in my last Mazda and got it to work perfectly using the LS1 computer. There is one tricky piece that you need but then it is easy. I was surprised at how little info there was about this, even when I called a bunch of hot rod AC places.

    The way to do it is to use a stock chevy pressure sensor - ACDELCO Part # 155742 {#22664328} http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...rtNum=22664328

    The hard part is that the pressure sensor needs a "special" port, which I have only found at Docs Blocks, it is their part number AC0146. http://docsblocks.com/search_results...earch&iLevel=1

    That fitting needs to be brazed into the high pressure line - on the Camaro it is pretty close tot he firewall so if it will fit there in the BMW the wires will not have to be extended. Alternatively it can be placed close to the dryer. The other alternative is to use a different drier but that is a lot harder to do because all of the lines have to be changed. If you are having lines made then just have the fitting brazed into place.

    Once you have the fitting the wiring is pretty straight forward, there are three other AC wires for the LS1 PCM:

    1. AC Request wire needs +12 V INTO the PCM - this is the way that the PCM knows that you want AC

    2. AC Clutch wire needs to be used to ground the relay that throws power to the AC clutch - this is the way the PCM turns on the compressor, when it wants the compressor ON it allows this wire to go to ground.

    3. AC Status wire needs to be spliced into the +12v that is going to the AC compressor clutch - this is how the PCM knows that when it is asking for the clutch to be in it actually is turned on.


    Here are some links to some discussions about this (you have to sort through a lot of nonsense) but the goodies are in there:

    http://www.torquecentral.com/showthr...&highlight=pcm

    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524068 "


    You want to use the LS1 compressor and BMW condenser, evaporator and drier.
    Rob
    Prior projects:
    1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
    - pictures and details
    1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
    1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details




  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    4,076
    My Cars
    240sx, JCW MINI, Disco
    if you want, you can do what I'm doing with the '68 small block, just take the compressor off your old motor and mount it to a bracket against the engine, and it'll run peachy.
    Quote Originally Posted by thedaddy View Post
    thedaddy ties Obama to Ozzie Osbourne...........nails triple word score.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Dublin, VA
    Posts
    1,808
    My Cars
    E46, E53, E90, GSXR, MR2
    Quote Originally Posted by rao View Post
    From an old e-mail:


    "I spent a lot of time learning about LS1 AC - I solved this problem in my last Mazda and got it to work perfectly using the LS1 computer. There is one tricky piece that you need but then it is easy. I was surprised at how little info there was about this, even when I called a bunch of hot rod AC places.

    The way to do it is to use a stock chevy pressure sensor - ACDELCO Part # 155742 {#22664328} http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...rtNum=22664328

    The hard part is that the pressure sensor needs a "special" port, which I have only found at Docs Blocks, it is their part number AC0146. http://docsblocks.com/search_results...earch&iLevel=1

    That fitting needs to be brazed into the high pressure line - on the Camaro it is pretty close tot he firewall so if it will fit there in the BMW the wires will not have to be extended. Alternatively it can be placed close to the dryer. The other alternative is to use a different drier but that is a lot harder to do because all of the lines have to be changed. If you are having lines made then just have the fitting brazed into place.

    Once you have the fitting the wiring is pretty straight forward, there are three other AC wires for the LS1 PCM:

    1. AC Request wire needs +12 V INTO the PCM - this is the way that the PCM knows that you want AC

    2. AC Clutch wire needs to be used to ground the relay that throws power to the AC clutch - this is the way the PCM turns on the compressor, when it wants the compressor ON it allows this wire to go to ground.

    3. AC Status wire needs to be spliced into the +12v that is going to the AC compressor clutch - this is how the PCM knows that when it is asking for the clutch to be in it actually is turned on.


    Here are some links to some discussions about this (you have to sort through a lot of nonsense) but the goodies are in there:

    http://www.torquecentral.com/showthr...&highlight=pcm

    http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=524068 "


    You want to use the LS1 compressor and BMW condenser, evaporator and drier.
    Thanks for the info. I couldn't get the torquecentral link to come up.

    It is a shame there isn't more info on A/C swaps out there. Seems most people leave it off I guess.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Naperville, IL
    Posts
    2,462
    My Cars
    1998 540i
    They moved the host for the old Torquecentral site.

    Here are the new links:

    http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-non...w-minutes.html

    http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...nuts-only.html

    The problem with using the BMW compressor mounted to the LS1 is that you lose the ability to have the PCM control the a/c so it won't bump the idle when the a/c is on and it won't turn off the compressor at high RPMs.

    There is a lot of info on using aftermarket HVAC systems in old cars, but very little on a/c and engine swaps.
    Rob
    Prior projects:
    1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
    - pictures and details
    1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
    1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details




  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    sulphur,la
    Posts
    196
    My Cars
    98 M3, 2005 silverado,

    Thanks Rao

    We probably need to make this a sticky

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Dublin, VA
    Posts
    1,808
    My Cars
    E46, E53, E90, GSXR, MR2
    Quote Originally Posted by rao View Post
    They moved the host for the old Torquecentral site.

    Here are the new links:

    http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-non...w-minutes.html

    http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...nuts-only.html

    The problem with using the BMW compressor mounted to the LS1 is that you lose the ability to have the PCM control the a/c so it won't bump the idle when the a/c is on and it won't turn off the compressor at high RPMs.

    There is a lot of info on using aftermarket HVAC systems in old cars, but very little on a/c and engine swaps.
    Thanks. Seems I got an e-mail when the board moved but forgot about it. I'm not looking forward to the A/C part of this project. Has to be done though.

    Are you planning on putting A/C on your BMW or is it just for racing?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Naperville, IL
    Posts
    2,462
    My Cars
    1998 540i
    A/C and everything else; it is a street car
    Rob
    Prior projects:
    1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
    - pictures and details
    1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
    1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details




  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Dublin, VA
    Posts
    1,808
    My Cars
    E46, E53, E90, GSXR, MR2
    Cool deal. Maybe you'll get the A/C lines and fittings figured out before me and give me tips I've never been good with A/C.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Naperville, IL
    Posts
    2,462
    My Cars
    1998 540i
    Bump for people looking for all you need to know about LS1s and AC
    Rob
    Prior projects:
    1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
    - pictures and details
    1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
    1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details




  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Columbia, SC
    Posts
    3,430
    My Cars
    2010 BMW 135i Coupé
    Stickied
    -Dustin

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Utica, NY
    Posts
    91
    My Cars
    E36 M3 S/C LS6, E46
    Are setup -

    - 318I a/c compressor mounted to ls1 bracket by cnc brackets to mate the two together

    - Wired bmw relays into the ls1 computer

    - Stainless steel lines with fittings

    All the kits we have sold people haven't been interested in it, so I haven't pushed the subject, but it looks like it more and more people are talking about wanting it now, hot weather will be here soon enough in NY.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,453
    My Cars
    357is (e30 w/LS1)
    Making the AC lines was easy. We looked at the DocsBlocks videos and just used a propane torch, with their pre-fluxed solder rings. Do it like Docs shows, heat the "sleeve" end of the connection until the solder flows into the joint. So, starting from the compressor and going to condenser, receiver, evaporator compressor:

    Compressor block, A0336

    1. 90 deg Female Oring Fitting (FEO) A0083 // -8 hose // AC0097 // [braze here] // AA0259 [cut & bend as req'd] ~~ (-8 line from compressor to condenser)


    2. AA0258 [cut & bend as req'd] // [braze here] // AC0096 // -6 hose // Hose-to-switch-port-to-6 straight FEO***) ~~ (-6 line from condenser to receiver --- *** special fitting with M10 switch port for GM 3-wire pressure switch ***

    3. AA0082 // -6 hose // AA1388 hi side charge fitting // -6 hose // AC0096 // [braze here] // AA0258 ~~ (-6 line from receiver to evaporator bulkhead fitting) We used some hard line at the exit end of this line so we could follow the OEM layout of the lines.

    4. AA0076 // -10 hose // AA1392 lo side charge fitting // -10 hose // AA0068 ~~ (-10 line from evaporator bulkhead fitting to compressor suction)

    We ordered the fittings and (3) hose sizes, with estimates of how much hose was needed. We cut the hose and made-up the lines, and marked the clocking of the fittings to the hose with a sharpie -- 1, 2, or 3 hash marks of other type of unique marks. Then took hose assys to an AC repair shop where they crimped them for $4.00 per crimp. We found the AC lines easy to make, and the prices for Docs fittings by far the lowest. We used "standard barrier hose" for all hoses. When we get driving, we'll take the car over to Steve's office, and get a guy he's used before to pull-down vacuum on the system, check for leaks and then add PAG oil and R134a refrigerant. We'll find out then how good we did on the brazing...

    We are also changing the expansion valve for R134a, and have to remove the evaporator and its short lines and flush it/them to get the R12 oil out (use a solvent specifically for this -- check Docs for recommendations)

    *** THE "SPECIAL FITTING", the fitting that allows you to use the GM 3-wire pressure switch is:

    Special fitting with M10 switch port for GM 3-wire pressure switch -- from www.tubesnhoses.com) this fitting is -6 female o-ring on one end, switch port (M10) in middle, then beadlock crimp to -6 standard barrier hose at the other end.
    Last edited by garretvs; 02-25-2008 at 07:38 PM.



    E30-LS1 Swap Guide and Kits, email us at e30ls1@gmail.com !!! or check our website e30ls1.wordpress.com

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    ptc, ga
    Posts
    79
    My Cars
    e30 325i, 318ti clubsport, and 1980 volvo 242 gt
    i am getting ready to put an ls1 in my 318ti i have tons of questions and maybe you can help me out. anyone?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    NA
    Posts
    125
    My Cars
    E36
    Just use the factory LS1 a/c compressor and modify the factory BMW lines into GM lines, tap in the a/c pressure sensor and do some minor wiring. Had mine installed then removed it to build a second setup, never reinstalled it since...

    Biggest issues is location of drivetrain, my engine placement allows for the ls1 a/c compressor to fit but it's tight.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    179
    My Cars
    BMW: 1 down, 1 to go
    Quote Originally Posted by garretvs View Post

    *** THE "SPECIAL FITTING", the fitting that allows you to use the GM 3-wire pressure switch is:

    Special fitting with M10 switch port for GM 3-wire pressure switch -- from www.tubesnhoses.com) this fitting is -6 female o-ring on one end, switch port (M10) in middle, then beadlock crimp to -6 standard barrier hose at the other end.
    Tubes n Hoses part number for this is BL1301-4.




    Great thread, wish I had found it sooner.
    BMW: 1991 525iA (kid's car), SOLD: 1994 553iT Chevy V8 L33 turbo/T56
    Chevy Powered Chevys: 1965 Corvair Corsa Coupe * 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
    Chevy V8 Powered Others: 1975 Datsun 280Z LT1/T56 * 1988 Toyota Supra LM7/TKO600 * 1995 Pontiac Trans Am 383 LT4 Turbo/T56
    Dodges: 1991 Daytona CS * 1998 Durango * 2009 Challenger RT

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Singapore
    Posts
    531
    My Cars
    '98 EK4, '96 CP9A
    Anyone with a working A/C setup?

    I'm looking for some pictures of how you ran the refrigerent lines to the firewall.. thanks a lot!

    - Peter Shen -

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Naperville, IL
    Posts
    2,462
    My Cars
    1998 540i
    I do

    I am using the stock E36 firewall connection (and the rest of the inside components).
    Rob
    Prior projects:
    1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
    - pictures and details
    1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
    1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details




  19. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Seattle, WA
    Posts
    1,453
    My Cars
    357is (e30 w/LS1)
    Quote Originally Posted by joon View Post
    Anyone with a working A/C setup?

    I'm looking for some pictures of how you ran the refrigerent lines to the firewall.. thanks a lot!

    We are using the stock line(s) connection in the RH rear of the engine bay. The four A/C lines in the engine bay we made ourselves. See:

    http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...=699289&page=8

    post #377

    Our A/C blows too cold!



    E30-LS1 Swap Guide and Kits, email us at e30ls1@gmail.com !!! or check our website e30ls1.wordpress.com

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    North Florida
    Posts
    179
    My Cars
    BMW: 1 down, 1 to go

    Thumbs up

    I have a fuzzy pic of the E34 firewall fitting.


    I made a hold-down plate similar to the factory item shown here:


    You can see the plate in this picture:


    If the E36 is similar, I can tell you what I did. Let me know so I don't waste your time otherwise.

    Hijack
    RAO, On my '94 E34 the AC demand wire does not show as +12V, it was around 5V when I measured it. I'm thinking it may be some type of data signal? I can't get the dash panel to cycle the compressor, and am using the GM PCM as you noted above to control the compressor.
    BMW: 1991 525iA (kid's car), SOLD: 1994 553iT Chevy V8 L33 turbo/T56
    Chevy Powered Chevys: 1965 Corvair Corsa Coupe * 1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
    Chevy V8 Powered Others: 1975 Datsun 280Z LT1/T56 * 1988 Toyota Supra LM7/TKO600 * 1995 Pontiac Trans Am 383 LT4 Turbo/T56
    Dodges: 1991 Daytona CS * 1998 Durango * 2009 Challenger RT

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    555
    My Cars
    98' M3/LS2; 97'' 328i
    Is there a way to move or clock the location of the compressor clutch connector? There is not enough clearance (on my set up) to plug the harness into the compressor clutch receptacle.

    I thought I read somewhere how to do this, but now I can't find it.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Naperville, IL
    Posts
    2,462
    My Cars
    1998 540i
    No, you have to take off the connector itself, solder on wire and move the connection upstream.
    Rob
    Prior projects:
    1998 540i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy Power
    - pictures and details
    1992 325i with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details
    1995 M3 with 6.6 LS2/T56 Chevy power - pictures and details




  23. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Virginia Beach
    Posts
    2,898
    My Cars
    2011 328xi, E36 LS1
    If I wanted to just make a bracket and use the BMW compressor, what else would I have to do? I'm sure I'd need a different pulley and some wiring. Any details about doing this? Also, I saw Rao's post about it not bumping the RPMs at idle. Is there a disadvantage to this?

    Rao, the "new" links you posted in post #5 (2007, haha) are now dead. Any idea where that info went?


  24. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Newark, Nj
    Posts
    4
    My Cars
    2006 BMW M5
    i got the same problem hope this link gonna help you!http://www.easyexport.us/?a_aid=4bead65889ce2

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    317
    My Cars
    Z3M
    garretvs,

    would you (or anyone else) happen to know what is needed to change your setup to an E36(/7) chassis? Getting ready for the LS1 in the Z3, and fully intend to keep AC I'd like to buy the required items now before I get heavy into the car.

    It seems like your list (post 13) is complete on the required items, correct? If not, maybe we can get a post with a listing of everything needed?

    Thanks!

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •