Speedometer/odometer not working.
I've replaced the speed sensor in the diff with a new one, my Peake tool doesn't show any codes, I swapped the cluster with another one, and even swapped out the OBC with another one I had just for sh*ts and giggles. But no matter what, the speedometer, trip meter, odometer, and OBC functions that require speed information (fuel economy, etc.) act like I'm sitting still. And I'd imagine that cruise control won't work this way, either.
Anything else I can check? Fuse 46 is "Speed control" but that one is fine.
Background: I swapped out the cluster for a European one, and it was working after that. It was after I pulled the cluster out to see why the oil temp gauge wasn't working that the speed-related functions stopped working, too. I wanted to test to make sure that pin 13 on the right connector (white, I think) was getting a signal from my oil temp sender. And I also added a contact to pin #5 in the far left (black) connector to eventually connect to the rear foglight switch, but that wire is unstripped and not connected to anything right now.
-c///m
1997 Estorilblau M3 2-door
Performance: JC euro intake, AA Gen III exhaust, Evosport UDP, fan delete, Schrick cams, OBD-I intake manifold, 540 HFM, ASC delete, 24# fuel injectors, DiffsOnline 3.46 40% LSD, Boston BMWCCA sticker
Suspension: TC Kline SA (Suck-A**) coilovers, ///M front strut brace, X-brace, TCK RSM, Powerflex RTAB, Turner sways, Motorforce camber plates, RRT reinforced rear LCAs
Lighting: ZKW w/ HID, Euro clears, Lamin-X foglight film
Other: Z3 steering rack, SS brake and clutch lines, Stygar SSK, UUC TME, VDO Gauges, MB Quart Discus components, MB Quart Discus 6x9 triaxials, Audio Art NA 4070 280W amp
~2 month old revival~
just wondering how the cluster swap went. i'm getting ready to do the same for an oil temp gauge and wanted to make sure pin 13 on the white connector was the correct one for the temp sender. i see the bentley shows pin 13 as "oil temperature sensor". i just want to make sure it is the same for the "euro" equipment.
the only other post i found confirming pin 13 is this one.
obviously, from my pic you can see pin 13 is currently empty.
Last edited by entropy; 06-25-2007 at 09:07 PM.
patrick
As it turns out, I just had to make sure all the female pin sockets of the little black connector were seated properly, and then the speedo started working again.
I used pin #13 of the far right connector (when looking from the front of the cluster), but my oil temp gauge still doesn't work. Not sure if maybe I'm using the wrong size socket or what...
-c///m
1997 Estorilblau M3 2-door
Performance: JC euro intake, AA Gen III exhaust, Evosport UDP, fan delete, Schrick cams, OBD-I intake manifold, 540 HFM, ASC delete, 24# fuel injectors, DiffsOnline 3.46 40% LSD, Boston BMWCCA sticker
Suspension: TC Kline SA (Suck-A**) coilovers, ///M front strut brace, X-brace, TCK RSM, Powerflex RTAB, Turner sways, Motorforce camber plates, RRT reinforced rear LCAs
Lighting: ZKW w/ HID, Euro clears, Lamin-X foglight film
Other: Z3 steering rack, SS brake and clutch lines, Stygar SSK, UUC TME, VDO Gauges, MB Quart Discus components, MB Quart Discus 6x9 triaxials, Audio Art NA 4070 280W amp
good, i'm glad that worked for you. i'm planning on using the far right connector (white)(x16)(or conn A as bentley calls it) as well. i went to the dealership and bought one of the wires used for the cluster harness.
i hope 13 is the right spot. my only other issue is i just realized both my original cluster and "new" euro one lack coding plugs. i'm going to the dealer tomorrow to discuss what they can do. this is a big step for me. the only time i consult a dealer is for a part i can't get on my own. man, do i hate those guys.
anyone else got any input regarding the coding plug situation, or lack thereof?
Last edited by entropy; 06-27-2007 at 02:47 AM.
patrick
update, not really..
well, the genius, and i use the term loosely, at erhard bmw first told me they no longer use coding plugs so mine is a newer version of the old style. huh? bear in mind, my car is an early 95. then he told me the mileage is stored in three places. i've heard differing opinions regarding this. finally, for $105 and roughly 45min to an hour of work might yield me a functioning cluster however, the tamper dot may be on.
i think i may just swap the front, back and middle of the two clusters, the way porschetech did.
screw it, this thus confirms my hatred for the dealership...
btw, C///M i don't mean to hijack your thread but all this may benefit us both..
Last edited by entropy; 06-27-2007 at 02:14 AM.
patrick
If you swap out the back of your cluster (for the mileage) into the euro cluster, you won't have a functioning oil temperature gauge (it'll work just like the econometer of the US cluster). Unless porschetech had some way of working around that...
As a side note, I can no longer reset my service lights, either through the Peake tool or by using a piece of wire to short the correct pin of the pacman connector to ground. If anybody has any ideas, I've stumped a couple of BMW master techs with the problem...
-c///m
1997 Estorilblau M3 2-door
Performance: JC euro intake, AA Gen III exhaust, Evosport UDP, fan delete, Schrick cams, OBD-I intake manifold, 540 HFM, ASC delete, 24# fuel injectors, DiffsOnline 3.46 40% LSD, Boston BMWCCA sticker
Suspension: TC Kline SA (Suck-A**) coilovers, ///M front strut brace, X-brace, TCK RSM, Powerflex RTAB, Turner sways, Motorforce camber plates, RRT reinforced rear LCAs
Lighting: ZKW w/ HID, Euro clears, Lamin-X foglight film
Other: Z3 steering rack, SS brake and clutch lines, Stygar SSK, UUC TME, VDO Gauges, MB Quart Discus components, MB Quart Discus 6x9 triaxials, Audio Art NA 4070 280W amp
my friend had the same thing happen to him.. speedo/odo not working
he had a bad speed sensor
Hey, I've been stumped with a non-working speedo in the same way as you for a while. I've tried and everything, replaced the diff sensor, swapped clusters, but nothing. Everything in the cluster works properly except for the speedo/odometer, and of course the speed related functions in the OBC. So the last thing i'm stuck with is checking the connectors and wires in the back.
The connector that controls the speedo is the small black one all the way to the left correct? Do you know which pins I should be getting voltage on? because i've used a tester and I get a signal from a couple of the pins, but i'm not sure if they're the ones i'm supposed to be getting the signal on for the speedo function?
yeah, i know but did you ever get around to hooking up the temp gauge and did your clusters have coding plugs?
there are obviously three ways to install an oem temp gauge in the cluster:
1. swap out the entire gauge cluster
2. swap out the sections of the cluster with your original panels
3. swap out the mpg for the oil temp gauge alone
the only post i've seen where someone has a fully functioning euro cluster is when they swap the entire thing and also utilized coding plugs. unless i missed a post on this and on m3forums.com. both my original and euro clusters lack coding plugs.
option no. 1 would require a trip to the dealer which apparently wouldn't necessarily net the results i want i.e. tamper light activated or not even working. according to some options 2 & 3 won't get the gauge to work but should get me around my mileage issue/coding plug issue. the coding plug is an issue because i don't have one.
now, according to the dealer they can't guarantee they can do it without the tamper light coming on because they claim mileage is stored in three places. according to this post i found that is false.
first question is will "test #9" work as long as my cars mileage is is higher than the "new euro cluster"?
second question is can i install the euro "as is" to see how many miles are on it without screwing anything up?
third question is has anyone else with an early build date done this full swap successfully?
patrick
nothing?
patrick
Sorry, I missed this post...
Yes, it's the small black one all the way to the left. All I did was make sure that all the pins were correctly seated, pushing each one in as far as they would go. Then I carefully reassembled everything, taking care not to put any tension on the wires (to avoid pulling them out again) and it all worked after that.
-c///m
1997 Estorilblau M3 2-door
Performance: JC euro intake, AA Gen III exhaust, Evosport UDP, fan delete, Schrick cams, OBD-I intake manifold, 540 HFM, ASC delete, 24# fuel injectors, DiffsOnline 3.46 40% LSD, Boston BMWCCA sticker
Suspension: TC Kline SA (Suck-A**) coilovers, ///M front strut brace, X-brace, TCK RSM, Powerflex RTAB, Turner sways, Motorforce camber plates, RRT reinforced rear LCAs
Lighting: ZKW w/ HID, Euro clears, Lamin-X foglight film
Other: Z3 steering rack, SS brake and clutch lines, Stygar SSK, UUC TME, VDO Gauges, MB Quart Discus components, MB Quart Discus 6x9 triaxials, Audio Art NA 4070 280W amp
If your older Euro cluster is like the one I had, there is no test 9. AFAIK, test 9 is to synch up the cluster with the coding plug. So if there's no coding plug, there's no need for test 9.
The answer to your second question is, "I think so"...I did it on mine when I accidentally bought a Euro cluster without a coding plug, and I haven't seen any ill effects from plugging it in and powering on.
I don't have an answer to #3...my car's original cluster uses a coding plug, as does the Euro cluster I'm using now.
-c///m
1997 Estorilblau M3 2-door
Performance: JC euro intake, AA Gen III exhaust, Evosport UDP, fan delete, Schrick cams, OBD-I intake manifold, 540 HFM, ASC delete, 24# fuel injectors, DiffsOnline 3.46 40% LSD, Boston BMWCCA sticker
Suspension: TC Kline SA (Suck-A**) coilovers, ///M front strut brace, X-brace, TCK RSM, Powerflex RTAB, Turner sways, Motorforce camber plates, RRT reinforced rear LCAs
Lighting: ZKW w/ HID, Euro clears, Lamin-X foglight film
Other: Z3 steering rack, SS brake and clutch lines, Stygar SSK, UUC TME, VDO Gauges, MB Quart Discus components, MB Quart Discus 6x9 triaxials, Audio Art NA 4070 280W amp
Fixed my issue. It was exactly that. the contacts in the plug i guess weren't touching enough. I had an extra plug of those laying around, so I switched them and started it up, and it worked perfectly. Thanks for the tip
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