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Thread: BMW e36 323i Boot/Trunk Central Locking Problem

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    leicester
    Posts
    14
    My Cars
    BMW 323i Coupe Auto

    BMW e36 323i Boot/Trunk Central Locking Problem

    Hi Guys, I am new here and I require some information how I can get my boot/trunk locked with my central locking. It has worked in the past, but I am not sure why its not working now.

    When I activate the alarm usiung my key fobb, my central lockinmg activates except fopr my boot/trunk locking. I have tried everything to get it to work, but no avail.

    I don;t want the hassle of locking the boot/trunk manually.

    Please Help.

    Thanks

    Dan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    4,097
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 530i
    Dan,

    I haven't run into this before, but there is one thing that I know you should check. That is the wiring harness on the trunk lid. The insulation on some of the wires may break or wear off after repeated use. Then you get shorts that cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. There's a sticky post about this in the e36 section that you should read.

    Other than that, pull out the voltmeter and start tracing the lock actuator circuit.

    Steve
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    leicester
    Posts
    14
    My Cars
    BMW 323i Coupe Auto
    Hi Steve,

    I have checked the wiring and all looks ok. Anything else I can try?

    I am confused about what dead lock is with regard to my boot..can you enlighten me on this?

    Dan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    4,097
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 530i
    Dan,

    Do you hear the trunk lock actuator click when you try to lock it? If not that might indicate that the actuator is bad.

    If you hear it, it is possible that the actuator position needs to be adjusted. Apparently the actuator is in the trunk lid under the tool kit and trim. If you get in there you can at least put a voltmeter on the connectors and see if they're getting power.

    I've not read the term "dead lock". Perhaps it refers to the "double lock" where you turn the master key 90 degrees clockwise (toward the rear of the car) on the driver's side. When you double lock it, neither the outside nor inside locks work. You must use the master key to unlock the door. Does that sound like what you read "dead lock" means?

    Steve
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    leicester
    Posts
    14
    My Cars
    BMW 323i Coupe Auto
    Steve,

    No i donl;t here the actuator clicking when i lock, just the mechanism of the locking action when i turn the key.

    Dead lock info is excellent, that is exactly what i mean.

    Thank you for your help I really appreciate it.

    Dan

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Knoxville, TN
    Posts
    4,097
    My Cars
    2001 BMW 530i
    You're welcome. Sorry I don't have the experience to tell you what is wrong.
    Steve
    2001 530i/5 S+P CDV delete/Akebono ceramic pads/M5 SSK/RedLine MTL/M5 rear sway bar
    BMWCCA Member #337964

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    rockville maryland USA
    Posts
    4
    My Cars
    1999 323I convertible
    Opened locked trunk No Drilling:

    Hope this helps someone in the future. Opened and repaired my 323ci convertible locked and unopenable trunk-- no drilling. Based on a number of posts and u tube video's.

    I have a 323IC 1999 e36 convertible and suddenly one day the trunk would not open. All electrical was working all solenoids and micro switches. I could hear the trunk solenoid working. Base on what I read sometimes the mechanical linkages from the push in button separate. I suspected this. One guy on u tube drilled a hole above the latch and unlatched using a screwdriver. I did not want to put a hole in my car even if behind the license plate. This was my local dealers suggestion too.

    Here's what I did:

    Removed rear seats/headrests.

    Buttocks cushion is easy, front yank up then pull out forward. Back cushion-- Removed lower seat belt attachments to get them out of the way. Headrests need a very generous yank to get them up and out. Next the top of the rear seat is unlatched with a good yank forward now allowing you to pull the rear seat back upwards and out. I am now looking at my HK subwoofer.

    Removed HK subwoofer. 4 Torx screws Needed a good yank to get it out causing the grill in the trunk to separate, fortunately it did not break. ( some people have a ski pass instead which is removed the same way. Some have nothing but a tack welded metal plate and those people have just broken the tack welds.)

    Now we are in and can see into the trunk with a flashlight. (so if you just locked your keys inside you should be in good shape now) in my case the latch is still broken. I Can't get to the latch itself because it is built into the trunk lid. So.....

    Using a ratchet with length extenders and a 10 mm socket the bolts that hold the metal loop to the car that the latch grasps able able to be unscrewed. (saw this on Utube.) So you are still not opening the lock but you are releasing what the latch clamps onto.

    Next step: Unfortunately the latch plate lives just under a piece of plastic trim in the rear of the trunk. A good pull up on the trunk lid now opens the trunk latched and all, but breaks a piece of the plastic interior trunk with it. Fortunately, in my case the piece fits back in nicely and is barely noticeable. I would rather have this broken than a hole in my car.

    Ok, so now the trunk is open and I need to fix the problem that caused the issue in the first place.

    Just above the trunk latch I removed the trunk lid carpet liner with a cheapie trim removal tool taking out about 6 plastic push bolts. Liner drawn back and problem is right there.

    A mechanical rod has come out of its hole. Probably was held by a plastic part that broke ( read about this as well and it is not uncommon in this vehicle) With the link arm back in place I push the trunk button and the latch expels the loop it is holding ready to be bolted in place again.

    I replace the linkage into it proper hole. To stop the linkage from falling out again I used 3 push on locking washers from the local hardware store 11 cents each. I don't think it will ever come undone again.

    Replaced everything working backwards.

    Total time-- about an hour.
    Total cost-- 33 cents (because I already had the necessary tools.)

    Only down side- Small piece of broken plastic inside the trunk.

    Upside. No holes in my beautifully working and maintained 1999 323 IC E36 65K convertible.
    No dealer fees.

    Could not have done this without Utube. Just wanted to put it in one place. I hope it helps someone else one day.

    Best wishes.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Cave Creek, AZ
    Posts
    1,117
    My Cars
    1993 850ci 2001 M5 / Z3M
    Similar issue here with trunk lock actuator not working on a 97 323 convertible. We pulled fuse number 7 to disable power locking mechanism, then manual lock on trunk worked for access into the trunk.

    Hope this helps.
    Regards,

    Brian
    Cave Creek, AZ

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