Thinking about used E38? Here's what to look for.

[Cross495]

kromdom, thanx for info, btw i used 2 spend a lot of time in CA with relatives(Palo Alto)
the main problem with the newest year is that those cars were mostly in use by government so-called VIPs to drive them, so most of 7er 1999-2001 are black\black or blue\black, hand washed by drivers in the garage by drivers during free time(to save the money for themselves), so here goes the matte paint, the skipping of service etc etc. those ones are also pretty bad on technical health.
i did some research and the results are:
the cars in best condition are the ones bought in 1996-1999 or brought by order from Germany(years 1997-2001), but there would still be some minor technical issues with those.
i tested 2 cars today:2001 750il and like heaven and hell.
I tested the 2001 750il today.the tag is 29.4K $, the mileage is 210K Km..
It runs very well, engine sounds nice and all, but it's all matte, the back seat is almost ruined-as far as i know some minister almost lived on that back seat, there was a pc installed,but the took it out,so here go the hanging power wires tec..

[Cross495]

the 2nd part about the 740 i didn't show up,so i'm retyping it..(weird)
1998 740i,238K Km, perfect inside and out, only one owner in Russia(brought the car for himself from Germany in 2002),
after a crash in 2004 switched ruined front&rear bumpers to ACSchnitzer's finest, installed the new optics and xenon lights, made a slight window tint. to be short, i loved the car...the tag's 20K$..
I don't know what to do: either narrow the search by selecting the specs actual for me and then search for that car, or just wait anв see: more cars, more opinions, more options?..

[kromdom]

looks like the 740 is the better pick. Worried about that crash in 2004 though...fender bender or major?? Maybe the seller can flex a bit on price because of it.

Never been to Palo Alto...however, I know only RICH people live there.

[Cross495]

The crash was pretty minor: someone bumped into him from behind and pushed him all the way to the car in the front. The total was ruined bumpers, front lights,fogs, and trunk(it got scratched). As far as he wasn't the one to blame, he changed everything with restyled details(lights) or better ones(ACShnitzer's)..
Hell, i really don't know what to buy..=(

[pman54]

Thanks for the info, And I thought I had done all the above, I just bought a 97 740il it is clean and ran out great until this morning, I notice it running a little rough so I took it to the local bmw dealer (holding my breath) and well after having it for a week its going to cost me 614.00 in repairs a crank blowby sensor or valve. I tried to look it up but cant find anything on line. I bought the car out of state. Well Im hopeing that this is not the beginning of the end.

[nottmeiere]

I am trying to sell a 2001 imola red 740i sport, though with tan leather and small-screen nav, 92K miles, $19900, 904-233-1386

[NYxx740IxxNY]

guys how can i tell what motor block do i have on my 95 e38
what good and what not?????

[M.Wong]

guys how can i tell what motor block do i have on my 95 e38
what good and what not?????

From this:
http://www.e38.org/koalamotorsport/v8shortblock.htm

"How do you tell which material is in your short block ?

That part is fairly easy. But it requires getting under the right front of the car. All M60 and M62 blocks have casting numbers on the right side, directly alongside the 3rd cylinder, slightly above the coolant drain bolt.

These are the casting numbers to look for :

Nikasil M60B30 1 725 970 or 1 741 212
Nikasil M60B40 1 725 963 or 1 742 998
Alusil M60B30 1 745 871
Alusil M60B40 1 745 872
Alusil M62B44 1 745 873 NOTE, all US market M62 engines are Alusil.

This is the only way to determine which M60 you have, short of removing a cylinder head.

In performing engine repairs or rebuild procedures in the future, it is imperative that you correctly identify the cylinder block, as the pistons and rings used in each style are different and not interchangeable."

[M.Wong]

Before you post a question here...

Your question will get more exposure and attention if you post it as a new thread with the question or the subject of the question in the title. Always add the year and model if possible, and where you are located. (Different countries have different options and specifications.)

[740iOrientBlue]

I learned an (new to me) old saying today:

"A buyer must be blessed with a thousand eyes... while a seller can afford to be blind."

A word to the wise is sufficient.

[decepticons7]

I just bought a 1997 e38. Aside from the pixel problems at temperature and the busted cupholder, I thought I was getting a terrific car - until I found this bulliten board. Now I'm scared I just bought a money-pit.

I've been a Honda guy all my life. My two accords have given me nothing but 20 years of reliable, trouble-free, maintenance-free transportation. I (incorrectly?) assumed BMWs were just as well engineered and built as my Hondas. That said, I bought the car with 120K mi. assuming I'd get 50K more out of it without much trouble.

Now, according to the threads on this board, I'm facing about 20+ repairs, each likely to cost me $500. Service record? What's a service record? The only thing we Honda drivers every worried about was chainging the timing belt.

Yes, the car looks great, but I'm not keen on getting to know my mechanic on a first-name basis. I was looking forward to joining the local car club, but I'll pass if this is going to cost me $5000/year in maintenance.

Somebody please tell me I'm overreacting.

Chuck M.
Jacksonville, FL

your not overreacting.

I too was once a Honda owner...

I will never look back again.

[Guam740il]

I just bought a 1997 BMW 740il for a really cheap price I think. $1k. It looks nice except for the bumpers, etc. Now after an additional 4K I have a new radiator, new control arms, new front and rear bumpers including the impact strip, new plastic bottom cover, new brake pads, New emblems, Tune-up, new winshield weather strip, (1) New M-parallel wheel 18" x9.5".

I have a 2004 Subaru STI and a 2006 BMW 325i, I have also had a 1989 M3, 1987 635CSI most are kinda sporty now that I am 40 I like the room and comfort of the 740il. Almost everything works except for the Headlamp washer and windshield washer. Also the headliner is falling apart.

My problem is here the car sits low to the ground and scrapes most of the time in entering ramps. I asked the local shop and they said this is the sport suspension option and it is low. Also after my radiator upper hose neck broke on me on the road and had no clue that the system needed to be bled my oil pressure light is on after a couple of minutes and then goes away and sometimes blinks a bit the car has 27,892 miles on it. According to the mechanic when they changed the oil it had a lot of sludge should I?

1. flush the engine and use synthetic oil?
2. remove and clean the oil pan?
3. I saw some oil pump bolts that need to be checked, where are they?

Now it scares me but I like the ride and the character of this car.

Thanks

[nixter]

Hi guys, I'll be looking at a '95 on Saturday that had the engine replaced at 100k, it's currently 43k past that (143k total). I will take this list to the ppi but is there anything else specifically about the 95 to watch out for?

cheers,
n

[icebergtec]

Thanks. This is great info. I just bought a '96 740iL. I will pay close attention to these possible problems.

[lectrik1]

I just purchased a 1998 740il with one line of pixels going out in the instruments. How expensive is it to have it fixed? Right now, I am not worried about it since it is only one line. Instead of reading 8:00 it shows 3:00.

[fastattack686]

You HAVE bought a money pit.. I read comments from these people that rationalize "$4000 maintenance is not too much to expect from a car of this quality"... BS.. people get your head out of your arse and call a spade a dang spade.

I love the look and drive of this car. I absolutely HATE this car. Between the dealer screwing me when I paid for an inspection before buying.. (oh yes.. we pull the wheels and do a full CPO inspection...only to have the 'brake light' come on 1 week after buying.. silly me.. did not see brake rotors severely warn).. C
alled dealer to express my pleasure with one of the KEY items they said they checked.. "we can do those brakes for you and knock off 1/2 hour of labor.. price $600" . Thanks.. no.. I don't feel like receiving an unsolicited body penetration from you....

Then the rear window regulators (both..).. then the drink holder breaking.. then the display pixels.. then the ABS.. then the Visor snapping off.. then the seat trim breaking.. then the 1 1/2 months at 3 garages for the starting problem (or lack of) .....then the bolts for Oil filter housing.. then both front window regulators going bad.. then the radiator cracking.. then the water pump going.. then the hose to heater control valve blowing... all the while the AC being totally substandard...

I have done all the repairs myself except the starting problem.. and trying to get the money for the front windows regulator replacements, which makes the AC problem even more frustrating.. now.. I posted my NEW problem with my BMtroubleu... Turn left and fan slows down on interior.. go figure...

The wife refuses to take this car on vacation.. the kids keep saying.. can we just get a different car.. then neighbors and my coworker chuckle and say "I told you so... "

If you want a car that you will love to drive, but absolutely HATE and get pissed at, buy a Beemer 7 series.. I HIGHLY encourage it.. That way I am not the only fool....

For all you that think this many repairs, breakdowns, failures is normal........the emperor is NOT wearing cloths.. these cars are very unreliable and money pits.. and there are much more reliable cars, and I am at my breaking point...

Nuff ranting...

[nixter]

I think you bought a car that was not well looked after. The second problem , (actually this should be first), was that your pre purchase inspection was done by the same people who sold you the car. This is called a "conflict of interest". It's funny, large, cushy, luxury vehicles are often bought (new) by people who have enough money to not really care about the amazing car they have! So many of these machines are abused and then sold for cheap. People like your dealer fix up the bare minimum to impress on the test drive and then make a quick buck on a guy who really loves these cars and has purchased it more with his heart than his head because it seems like a great deal.

The same could have easily happened to anyone and often only the experience makes you wiser.

Sorry for your experience. My friend ended up buying the car and it has been great so far. Although he's a tad absent minded and ran out of gas this morning on the way to work. (he's probably going to be reading this)


n

[fastattack686]

Nope.. bought from an Indy.. took to the dealer for the 'independent' inspection..

... what a waste..

Although minor.. another problem was the windshield washers stopped working.. leaking water out the hook. Did not have time to fix, so dropped off at dealer. They repaired.. 1 hour.. can live with that...

Now the vent grille on hood has the hold down 'buttons' or retainers broken.. 2 holding, 2 laying down in grill.. 1 missing...and dealer worked on last. I called for these $0.15 items.. "you have to buy the whole grill". .... are you on fricken drugs???

I called service department.. and they want me to stop by to talk to service manager.. think it would have been better if they handled it by phone..


Happiest 2 days in my life..... day I bought it...

and day I sell it...

[fastattack686]

The car is in pretty good shape. I got a pretty good deal.. (remains to be seen ) as I think I will still come out ok when I trade/sell it... that was my rationale for buying.. since they seem to hold value (plateu out about 9-10,000)..

You read thru all these "check this long laundry list of items" for all the problems you will encounter....

No .. I think BMW has a great product with either A) poor QC in some areas B) poor engineering on key critical items and c)dealers who absolutely RAPE their customers.

The hoses I purchased for the replacements recently done was $94 with shipping... dealer wanted $271 +tax. The brakes they wanted $600 for front, I did all 4 for $298. These were with BMW OEM parts (Brembo and stamped BMW hoses).


When the talking to the indy, he was like.. don't use the windows.. they will break in another 2 years... what is wrong with BMW??? What is wrong with the people who accept this???

I make reasonable money, but I don't like getting taken advantage of, nor having simple items just.. well break. Its sad when you have to say.. "DON'T use that, I don't want to have to replace it" for items like the 'oh sh33t' handles above the doors.. (lol.. I state they are just for looks.. )

I am glad others are having such great service life with their 7's.. Consumer reports does not have such glowing fondness of the car, and unfortunately I see why...

When a car has lost the confidence of the owner (and his family..) it don't matter how much you like the looks/feel/performance.. the car needs to be replaced with a less 'stress intensive' alternative....

I keep holding out hope I might replace the last item.. but then I hear the replaced rear window regulator start clicking......................sigh................ ....

[nixter]

Your car obviously had major issues when you bought it. I'll let you know how it goes with this one.

As for your windows, if they are not working but you hear clicking then try this. Open the door with the non working window. Hold down the window button. Make a fist and using the palm of your fist (as if pounding on a table), give the inside of the door a few good sharp whacks in various places. If it's anything like the 5's then the best spot is lower front corner of the door panel. The windows often stick with age and trick many people in to buying new switches, motors, and relays when all you need is a fist I had the same problem when i bought my m5. The PO even included new motors that he had bought off ebay! I just need to figure out where to lube the mechanicals now.

[dophineh]

Wow fastattack686, sounds like a terrible experience. I wonder if your car is a lemon. A 2000 740il should be easier to maintain than that. I guess I'll find out for myself if I buy this '98 740il I am looking at.

[barsouma]

Thanks for all the wonderful info guys. I just acquired a 2001 740iL last month and have put about a thousand miles on it. Apart from some minor irritants which I have been able to fix my only problem so far is the pixel display which is so broken up that I can barely read the trip odometer and the temperature not to mention the warning messages.
What do I have to do to get the problem fixed?

[M.Wong]

my only problem so far is the pixel display which is so broken up that I can barely read the trip odometer and the temperature not to mention the warning messages.

Take a look at these for pixels:

Short version
Pixel Repair

Long version
Pixel Repair

[Grd4Spd]

good morning all!

im still have a big rubbery one for the 704iL.....just love the lines of the car....tech but not overly done (no idrive) ...... are there any (newer) issues other than the ones cited on the first pages that i need to concern myself with? as far as the nav system, is it out of date? can i get an updated cd or programming? is the later center mount nav better, bigger, larger? from what i have seen i like it better as center mount. i have plenty of time to search for the perfect car, as im in no rush....want origional owner, low miles, no snow/bad/winter roads driving, warranty...ect.....ebay still the best option? any recommended dealers? what are some of your experiences since purchasing and logging miles on a used E38 in the 2001 vintage?

thanks to all and enjoy!


td

[Grd4Spd]

test drove a very sharp, 2001 black on black, widescreen nav 740iL sport....all is good....well except for the sport package!!! really dont like the ride on that! whew....kinda harsh (for a sedan of that caliber)....well....at least i know i wont be getting a 740sport!