Replacing sliders and greasing front door tracks

[RyanCWard]

Just did both windows and replaced all four sliders. Windows work great now. Thanks for the DIY, very well written.

[persian451]

I just did this as well.. and OMG.. what a freakin difference.. This was one of the easiest DIY i've ever done.

[adonnan]

Success! Just wrapped this up. Drivers side rolls down one Mississippi quicker now.

[bdspilot]

I tried this yesterday and couldn't get the rear slider out using the leave the glass in method so i just replaced the front one on the drivers side and then lubed the two channels as well as the up and down channel that guides the rear of the window with lithium grease. Now the window goes up and down like new. When I started the window would only go down about an inch then stop.

This is what I did:

Took door panel off, removed air bag (I have reset tool from Peak) folded vapor barrier up from the bottom and taped it to the fixed window.

I put the window all the way down and I had to help it down. Very noisy and slow.

I then sprayed silicon spray down the front and rear channels. I then ran the window up and down a couple of times. The window was better, would go up and down on its own but it was still slow noisy and hesitant.

I then replaced the front slider and lubed it up. The window operation was about the same. I tried to replace the rear slider but had trouble so i just cleaned the track with a q tip and brake cleaned then reapplied grease. The window operation was much better but there was still noise from the rear channel.

I then used a Q-tip to apply grease to about 6 inches of the rear window channel, I then ran the window up and down a couple of time added more grease and then up and down again. The window works like new now. Very smooth, quiet and quick, 3 to 4 seconds.

Recommendation:

Tomorrow I am going to remove the passenger door panel. Leave the airbag in, fold the vapor barrier up and tape it to the fixed window. Clean and lube the two slider channels as well as the rear metal channel with lithium grease use silicon spray on the front rubber channel and then reassemble. This whole process should only take about 30 minutes. I will probably do this every couple of years or when needed. I still have the sliders and will replace in the future if needed. I do recommend getting them just in case. I got four off ebay for $8 shipped.

Tip:

There is a lip on the top of the door panel that must slide over or in between a rubber seal at the top of the door. If you dress this rubber at the top of the door with silicon, it makes installation and adjustment much easier.

Well that's it, good luck.

[panasonic]

This is a good write up.
I didn't read the whole thread, but I don't think anyone went over how to get the foam back to the door.
I used a heat gun to get the adhesive to stick again. Not sure if there's a better way or not.

[SCVipermad]

Update for 2012....

I started this today, had everything ready.

Found a site http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...5&postcount=58 that explains how to get the mirror switch out. I used two tiny allen wrenches to slip in and pull with a purpose.

I was going to try the "leave the fixed window in" technique...but as stated above the rear slider was just not accessible. So, I decided to do the full monty. So I pulled the inner weatherstip and got ready to pull the fixed glass.

I was looking around, getting my bearings and figured I would try just cleaning and lubing the slides and guides. There was quite a bit of very gooey stuff that might have been "grease" at some point. LOL

After cleaning and lubing I worked the window up and down with the switch...it was perfect! I thought "wow...thats pretty cool" (little did I know that the hardest part, for me, was putting the darn panel back on!).

So...I systematically started to put everything back together....I put the inner weatherstrip back on...then went to work the window. It was dog-@$$ slow again going down.

I inspected the probably 13 year old inner weatherstrip and ALL the felt was gone across the top, running the entire length almost. I cleaned it up but there was little to do as it was just nothing but rubber.

Of course, after staying on hold for 47 days (OK, I exaggerate....a little), the local BMW stealership (Checker Flag BMW...what losers) was NIS. Same for a local Bapgeon.

Alas...I'll order the driver side and replace. Based on how the window (and regulator) told me they felt "brand new" when I had that inner weatherstrip out...I'm hoping it is just that easy (well...you know what I mean).

PO had taken panel off before and one clip mount has separated from the panel, so I got to repair that, and then one other was a little loose, so I tidied that up as well.

[ODE2JOYboy]

Successfully did the slider replacement on a 99 Z3 driver's door without removing windows, as suggested much earlier in this thread by the yellow Z3M driver in 2008. Three suggestions on effective tools to use verses those originally recommended: 1) Harbor Freight offers a set of 4 (yellow) plastic prying tools for removing automobile trim, door panels, etc. Cost is $5-6 as I recall. These work great for the door panel, giving you the ability to pull back the panel a little with one tool to be able to see the next clip that you need to pry with another. 2) Instead of screwdrivers, use prying tools that are typically used for removing wood trim; these provide very good leverage in close quarters. The tools I used were a "cat's paw" (about 7 inches long, with an L-shape at one end and a thin, flat, wide blade at the other, the Shark brand is carried at Home Depot or Lowes. Bostich, Garrett Wade and many others make similar tools) and a 15 inch utility pry bar (this bar is heavier and thicker than the cat's paw and is also available at Home Depot, Lowes, and many other hardware stores and comes in many common brands). 3) Instead of pliers, use a small (2-3 inch throat) C-clamp (also readily available in most any hardware store). Again, in close quarters, the clamp is much easier to position than pliers. A small mirror on a handle for looking behind things and a couple of good sources of light, such as a headlamp and a small hand-held unit that can fit inside the door cavity are also quite useful for seeing what you're doing. All of these tools will find uses other than slider replacement if you are much of a DIYer. Good luck, and remember that there is glass nearby when you are leveraging around!

[BlackjackM]

Update for 2012....

I started this today, had everything ready.

Found a site http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...5&postcount=58 that explains how to get the mirror switch out. I used two tiny allen wrenches to slip in and pull with a purpose.

I was going to try the "leave the fixed window in" technique...but as stated above the rear slider was just not accessible. So, I decided to do the full monty. So I pulled the inner weatherstip and got ready to pull the fixed glass.

I was looking around, getting my bearings and figured I would try just cleaning and lubing the slides and guides. There was quite a bit of very gooey stuff that might have been "grease" at some point. LOL

After cleaning and lubing I worked the window up and down with the switch...it was perfect! I thought "wow...thats pretty cool" (little did I know that the hardest part, for me, was putting the darn panel back on!).

So...I systematically started to put everything back together....I put the inner weatherstrip back on...then went to work the window. It was dog-@$$ slow again going down.

I inspected the probably 13 year old inner weatherstrip and ALL the felt was gone across the top, running the entire length almost. I cleaned it up but there was little to do as it was just nothing but rubber.

Of course, after staying on hold for 47 days (OK, I exaggerate....a little), the local BMW stealership (Checker Flag BMW...what losers) was NIS. Same for a local Bapgeon.

Alas...I'll order the driver side and replace. Based on how the window (and regulator) told me they felt "brand new" when I had that inner weatherstrip out...I'm hoping it is just that easy (well...you know what I mean).

PO had taken panel off before and one clip mount has separated from the panel, so I got to repair that, and then one other was a little loose, so I tidied that up as well.

I'm running into the same issue. I have the door card off chasing down a leak and noticed that my window goes down much faster with the card and upper seal off. I'm going to try some silicone on the seal to see if that helps. I'm just worried that it will keep smudging the glass which will drive me nuts.

[bully9au]

Ferris that was a good write up. Problem is: I did my LH door easily. Have just done the RH door (new sliders) and when you try to close/open its a start/stop thing - it takes about 8 presses of the button to close/open the door and the second switch movement (pressing all the way down) does nothing.
A few points:
I've taken the regulator out, hooked it up to 12v source and works well.

I've hooked a second regulator to a 12v source and that works well.

When I hook both these up to the plug (while outside of the door) same problem stop/start.

Ok while pressing button I hear a clicking from glove box. Ok so there's a relay there somewhere. So plug regulators into LH door and same problem.
Reattach LH door and thats still working fine.

It cannot be alignment as both will not work properly outside of door when plugged in to proper plug BUT both work with a 12v source.

It cannot be relay as LH door works fine but not with the other 2 regulators. This suggest there is only one relay for both doors.

Ok so I think SWITCH. Swap the right for the left and still no good - so switches are ok ($85 new whew).

I have thoroughly searched the forum and no mention of this problem anywhere. Its a enough to drive a bloke to the drink - which I'm now going to do - an icy cold Negra Modelo.

Anyone have any bright ideas??? Tks in adv. Oh I have had my door panels off so many times doing speakers etc etc I can do it in the dark with a nifty little thing I picked up for around a $. Will post a pic when I get batts. for camera. Never broken one clip.

[BlackjackM]

Ferris that was a good write up. Problem is: I did my LH door easily. Have just done the RH door (new sliders) and when you try to close/open its a start/stop thing - it takes about 8 presses of the button to close/open the door and the second switch movement (pressing all the way down) does nothing.
A few points:
I've taken the regulator out, hooked it up to 12v source and works well.

I've hooked a second regulator to a 12v source and that works well.

When I hook both these up to the plug (while outside of the door) same problem stop/start.

Ok while pressing button I hear a clicking from glove box. Ok so there's a relay there somewhere. So plug regulators into LH door and same problem.
Reattach LH door and thats still working fine.

It cannot be alignment as both will not work properly outside of door when plugged in to proper plug BUT both work with a 12v source.

It cannot be relay as LH door works fine but not with the other 2 regulators. This suggest there is only one relay for both doors.

Ok so I think SWITCH. Swap the right for the left and still no good - so switches are ok ($85 new whew).

I have thoroughly searched the forum and no mention of this problem anywhere. Its a enough to drive a bloke to the drink - which I'm now going to do - an icy cold Negra Modelo.

Anyone have any bright ideas??? Tks in adv. Oh I have had my door panels off so many times doing speakers etc etc I can do it in the dark with a nifty little thing I picked up for around a $. Will post a pic when I get batts. for camera. Never broken one clip.

I'm pretty sure I've read a post recently with the same symptoms and the issue for him was a broken wire going into the door that would flex and not work. Check all the wires in the door bundle.

[bully9au]

Ok will do that. Since you have a Z3 I presume that post about a broken wire was in the Z3 forum so will do a search there. Tks.

[brad bedell]

Thanks for this writeup! Why oh why did they use 'sliders' instead of rollers? Seems like a good way to stress components more. Although, Experience has shown me that non-serviceable rollers expire in about 18 years.

01, 76k miles. OE sliders were still mostly there. Grease could likely have fixed it without replacing them. However, since I had the parts ready, I just replaced them.

I spent more time gluing the top front part of the door panel than replacing the sliders.

[ZuluMcLaing]

I just did both windows. Being a procrastinator, I eventually got around to doing it. Huh, researching how to was the hardest part of the whole job. Seriously easy, I was done in 40 mins, both windows. I didn't have to worry about the side air bags, you can very easily work around them. The key part is taking out the quarter front window. Again, seriously easy. With that out, the rest is easy. TIP, clean the guides thoroughly on the windows the plastic glides on. THOROUGHLY- leave no trace and feel to see if the plastic sliders move freely back and forth. If not, well your window won't move easily either. I bought replacement ones, but didn't use them as they were way to stiff and my original ones weren't to bad, just rock hard grease.
I used liquid dish soup as a lubricant BTW. Grease just attracts dirt and leads to not working later. Always have for years and never had issues. (I like to think its cleaning the parts over time)

[second]

2001 Z3, one slider on driver side was completely off just sitting in the rain channel! This was a very helpful write up. A lot easier than you'd think!!

Door panel reinstall was the lengthiest part for me aswell. TIP:[the top of the panel has a lip that runs the whole length] at the door handle side first, Press the top of the panel into the weather strip ((in a raking leaves motion without the pull back part)) then with a constant pressure on the panel into the weather strip it'll start to go in, make your way to the hinge side, then use a plastic trim remover to help bring the seal back over the panel itself.

[Wojtek79]

.

[Wojtek79]

I am in the middle of this job right now taking my time. Just wanted to find out how many found the electrical connection broken that goes to the door lock. Also, is that for heated door locks? With it broken, the central locking still works like it should.

[kojohns]

I am in the middle of this job right now taking my time. Just wanted to find out how many found the electrical connection broken that goes to the door lock. Also, is that for heated door locks? With it broken, the central locking still works like it should.

I found the yellow connector to my door locks broken... I believe mine were part of the SRS system. I ended up soldering different connectors in.

[Wojtek79]

This is a 98 model. No side airbags. I am stumped. Anyone?

[Waterguy]

I have seen the same thing in mine. I think it is the door lock heater wires. Do you have the cold weather package installed? (Heated seats, heated washer nozzle).

[Vintage42]

I am in the middle of this job right now taking my time...

Me, too. I greased the sliders, which looked OK, greased the metal rear track, and sprayed silicone in the rubber front track. I found the driver tweeter was broken off the door panel, so replaced it. I upgraded the plastic sheets covering the doors, to the newer molded foam insulation panels. And after re-installing the panels, I found the plastic base of the driver door handle was disintegrating, so ordered another handle, which means the panel has to come off again. Not my picture:

IMG_1191.jpg

I think the door handle base breaks because the screw that holds it to the door does not have a big enough head, and no washer, to spread the force on the plastic. When you have the door panel off, check the plastic handle bases for cracks. I think cracks could be repaired with epoxy (or would it be ABS glue) and a thin washer as big as will fit, imbedded in it. Even a new handle would benefit from this reinforcement.

Attachment 495879

Edit: The new handle came and I repaired the old one using the broken pieces and epoxy. No room for a washer down in the hole.
http://s49.photobucket.com/user/vint...0Pull%20Handle

[lrnelson72]

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU!!! My window would go down about an inch...just enough to get my hand in there to give it a lil push to help the window go down. It drove me crazy! I took the door apart, without having the parts, hoping that my sliders were just gunked up. One of my sliders was wore down on only one side, but since I didn't get the new ones yet I went ahead and cleaned everything, lubed it all up and adjusted my window since it leaks, and then put it all back together. Even with the worn slider it works almost perfect! No more pushing my window down!!! Once I get my new sliders in it will be a pretty quick job since the first time I was extra careful and took the extra time to adjust the window as well. As long as I can find the solution on Google I will give it a shot! This was a repair that was well worth the time spent on it! I will do the passenger side and redo the drivers when I get my new sliders. Thank you so much for the how to!

[SWISS]

After reading the diy when I got to the window part i elected to pop the clips and PPP the window loose than to unbolt the regulator.

[Vintage42]

... when I got to the window part i elected to pop the clips and PPP the window loose than to unbolt the regulator.

I don't understand PPP, or what you did. You were replacing sliders? How does that involve the regulator?

[mermedia]

I'm missing some of the black rubber that goes on the side of the window (front area going up). I had to tear it off once because the window would not go up. Anyone know what it is called?

[328 Power 04]

I'm missing some of the black rubber that goes on the side of the window (front area going up). I had to tear it off once because the window would not go up. Anyone know what it is called?

This one? https://www.ecstuning.com/ES93938/ ?




If not, try
http://realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpart...diagId=51_2325
http://realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpart...diagId=41_1629
http://realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpart...diagId=51_2351