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Thread: Replacing sliders and greasing front door tracks

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Corona, CA, USA
    Posts
    52
    My Cars
    '97 Z3 1.9L
    subscribing for some great info! thank goodness for the search function...saves me from buying a new regulator or motor. hopefully this does the job for me!

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Myrtle Beach, SC
    Posts
    11
    My Cars
    34' Hunter
    Great write up but since I've repaired numerous windows with different problems the First thing I'm going to try is.... SILICONE. To be honest with you (as a paint and body man) I hate the stuff. It (silicone) can cause major problems in a paint shop. For solving slow or dragging window problems, it's the stuff. Both windows in my '97 Z were slow or dragging. Instead of looking in the shop I just bought a new can of spray silicone (less than $3.00 at Walmart). If you buy silicone do not buy the Liquid Wrench stuff, it has an oil base. If you spray the silicone on your finger tips it should be totally dry in less than 1 minute. If you spray it on your fingers and it stays oily Don't Use It. The can I got from Walmart has a spray tube that attaches to the spray nozzle. I sprayed all the window channels with the windows down. Then operate the window and spray more between the window and channel . Now both my windows operate very nicely with no dragging. If this hadn't fixed them, the next thing would have been to pull the door pannels off!


  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    OC, CA, USA
    Posts
    172
    My Cars
    2000 Z3 2.8
    Quote Originally Posted by Captain Mike View Post
    I sprayed all the window channels with the windows down. Then operate the window and spray more between the window and channel .
    How do you spray more between the window and the channel when the window is up? It seems like a pretty tight seal.

    We're talking about the "vent window" side, or the front side, of the window, right?

    -Warr

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Euless, Texas
    Posts
    89
    My Cars
    96 Z3 ,86 Samurai
    Did mine Memorial Day, very easy with these instructions.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    210
    My Cars
    2009 e90 328i 6MT
    Sticky?
    Tim
    2009 e90 328i 6MT

  6. #56
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    UK (NW)
    Posts
    300
    My Cars
    Z3
    Quote Originally Posted by bostongreen328i View Post
    Don't think I can illustrate it very well, so I'll just be more descriptive. Once you have the door panel off; raise the window till the sliders are toward the top of the opening in the door. Get a flat head screw driver and pry off the clips on the sliders. Then get a larger flat head screw driver and place it between the slider track and the regulator arm and pry the ball end out of the slider. While still holding pressure to keep the ball end out of the slider; push the slider out of the way and relieve pressure on the arm and track (take the screw driver out). Now you can push the slider the rest of the way out of the track with your finger.

    Then lube up the track and place the new slider in one end. Use your screw driver to pry apart the arm and track again and push the new slider under the ball end to where it rests in the hole. Now press the ball end into the slider with some pliers and replace the clip.

    Let me know if you need more detail on anything.
    Did mine using these instructions - here's a picture showing how to "pry the ball end out of the slider" since this is the hardest thing to do on this job (I used 2 screwdrivers together since I didn't have a large enough flat bladed one to use on its own):

    <Click to enlarge>


    This image shows where the clip is located in the slider (on the other door this time since it's easier to see):

    <Click to enlarge>

    Current...1998 ///M Coupe

    Previous...1997 Z3 2.8



  7. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    1,089
    My Cars
    Care
    Holy shit. The tab snapped that comes off of the door bar. I just finished welding that and the stupid regulator. Great design BMW!

  8. #58
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    North of Ordinary
    Posts
    609
    My Cars
    01 Z3 2.5, 06 Taco
    Did this procedure again today on the new(er) Z3. Thanks, again, to the OP for the excellent instructions. Though, this time I didn't need to reference them (much), except regarding the airbag (which I decided to leave in place and work around.

    This time, in preparation, I made sure I had plenty of new door panel clips, and replaced all those that looked iffy. In addition, as soon as the door panels were removed, I inspected each of the door clip mounts. A couple were loose... in that one edge could be lifted, and a couple clips were left in the door because a previous removal resulted in the clip mounts being torn from the door panel.

    I used a 5 minute epoxy (actually 1 hour to 'full strength') to re-glue all appropriate clip mounts.

    Windows work great now. Only bummer is that I carelessly seem to have lost one of the 'Air Bag' tabs (or clips) that cover the rear mounting screw. Hopefully it turns up sometime soon.

    JWhite
    Last edited by JWhite; 04-08-2010 at 07:37 AM.
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  9. #59
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, GA
    Posts
    38
    My Cars
    1996 Z3
    My driver side window no longer goes down, does that mean this will not fix my problem even if I was manually able to put it down. It was sluggish going down at first and does not move at all now. If I have to purchase a new window regulator and motor where would be the best and cheapest place to do so? Thanks

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Houston, Tehas
    Posts
    3,806
    My Cars
    99 Mcoupe
    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenEye View Post
    My driver side window no longer goes down, does that mean this will not fix my problem even if I was manually able to put it down. It was sluggish going down at first and does not move at all now. If I have to purchase a new window regulator and motor where would be the best and cheapest place to do so? Thanks
    The sluggishness suggests that your sliders are broken/gummed up. I'd try replacing them before you buy new regulators.

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, GA
    Posts
    38
    My Cars
    1996 Z3
    Yeah I just wastnt sure I could do that because I thought your window had to go down to be able replace them.

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Houston, Tehas
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    99 Mcoupe
    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenEye View Post
    Yeah I just wastnt sure I could do that because I thought your window had to go down to be able replace them.
    I'd go ahead and buy the sliders. They're really cheap and you're going to want to replace them in any case.
    You will be able to move the window up/down manually once you get in there. Go slowly and watch your fingers. If you replace the sliders and it still doesn't work, then move on to the regulator.

    As always, consult a trained professional if you don't feel comfortable with any of this.
    Last edited by Gofast; 04-07-2010 at 08:48 PM.

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, GA
    Posts
    38
    My Cars
    1996 Z3
    I was thinking the same thing. So I hear Ebay is the best place.. I also heard if you have to replace the regulator you have to replace the motor as well. Would be nice to know if that were true. I already have the door panel off but havent tried moving the window manually. I can definately see some gobs of grease in the tracks. Not looking good but ill clean this crap out and follow the steps accordingly. Thanks again.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    6,031
    My Cars
    Z3M Coupe & Roadster
    I did this as a maintenance when I first got the car. I ended up using the wrong grease - it dried up and got gunky made my windows not want to slide down (or slide down slowly) so I took them apart and did them again.

    This time using some grease from Lucas Oils and they work great now.

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, GA
    Posts
    38
    My Cars
    1996 Z3
    I thought I could figure out how to make the window go down manually but I just dont know where to start. So far ive removed the door panel and fixed window. Should I remove some other bolts or the motor? Or should I leave the rest intact and use shear force to push it down?

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Houston, Tehas
    Posts
    3,806
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    99 Mcoupe
    When you push the button to lower the window, does it make a noise like it's trying to go down?
    If so, you might try pushing the button while "helping" the window down. Don't force it though.
    If not, remove/re-apply battery power and check your fuses, you might have overloaded the window and blown something.

    You can check this out for an idea of how things go together:
    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=51&fg=10&hl=3

    My personal advice, I'd try to take piece 9 and 10 off as a single unit.
    Don't take piece 9 off of piece 10 while it's inside the door. It will let you move the window, but it's really hard to put those pieces back together.

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    Woodstock, GA
    Posts
    38
    My Cars
    1996 Z3
    Success...



    On the picture below you will see 3 golden screws.. Those are what hold the motor to the regulator should you ever have to remove it while keeping the regulator intact. I put the motor next to it so you can see how it lines up. There is one screw at the top and two down at the bottum. I had to do this in order to put my window down because the window switch wouldnt do it for me.

    Here are the wonderful condition of my sliders... The little piece missing on the left simply rubbed off suggesting cracking/corrosion

    Here is the window sill without the window and outer and inner weather stripping

    I plugged in the motor and it works. The problem is that as soon as i turn the ignition the motor starts turning in the up position. My driver side window (up) button is messed up so im going to look into that. However when the window worked the button did too even though it did not make the click sound and push down like the normal buttons do. I decided to hook up the regulator to the motor to see if it would work itself out. Well it didnt, the only way to stop it from moving is to hold the window (down) switch. Any ideas would be appreciated. Im going to fool with it some more now.
    Last edited by GoldenEye; 04-10-2010 at 06:18 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Frog County
    Posts
    118
    My Cars
    E36/8 3.0 T.blau
    Just finished this awesome fix :
    It achieved what relentless lubing couldn't!!

    Thanks a lot, I got quick and silent, brand new-like windows now!!

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Feb 2002
    Location
    Houston, Tehas
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    3,806
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    99 Mcoupe
    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenEye View Post
    Success...
    Cool! Glad you're making progress!

    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenEye View Post
    The problem is that as soon as i turn the ignition the motor starts turning in the up position. My driver side window (up) button is messed up so im going to look into that. However when the window worked the button did too even though it did not make the click sound and push down like the normal buttons do. I decided to hook up the regulator to the motor to see if it would work itself out. Well it didnt, the only way to stop it from moving is to hold the window (down) switch. Any ideas would be appreciated. Im going to fool with it some more now.
    You might try putting the motor back into the window and trying it again.
    I'm not 100% sure, but I think the regulator might use the resistance of the window to "feel" the top for the first time. Thus it rolls up until it hits the top, and then it knows where the top is.

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    San Antonio
    Posts
    6,031
    My Cars
    Z3M Coupe & Roadster
    Quote Originally Posted by Gofast View Post
    I'm not 100% sure, but I think the regulator might use the resistance of the window to "feel" the top for the first time. Thus it rolls up until it hits the top, and then it knows where the top is.
    I don't remember my car doing that when I had them dismantled a month ago. Sounds like a bad window switch

  21. #71
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    467
    My Cars
    2003 BMW Z4 Roasdter
    As a benchmark can someone tell me just how fast in seconds it should take for the windows to go down? I just purchased my first Z3 last October so I have nothing to compare it to.
    Fleet:
    2003 BMW Z4 Roadster 3.0i
    2013 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Cali
    Posts
    883
    My Cars
    MY 00 Z3 2.8l
    That's a good question, just when out and timed mines, driver side took 3.46secs to go down and 3.79secs to go up. Pass side much slower at over 4secs to go up or down. Got the sliders sitting somewhere in the garage, one of this days

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    alabama
    Posts
    123
    My Cars
    98 z3 2.8L 5 speed
    this is definitely ocd but,
    driver's window 3.8 s down and 3.9 s up
    passenger window 3.8 s down and 4.4 s up
    Times taken with ignition on and engine off.

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    467
    My Cars
    2003 BMW Z4 Roasdter
    Quote Originally Posted by Sound Of Speed View Post
    I actually just did this too. Got done like 30 mins ago. Pretty easy. Only one of my sliders was broken, but both windows got a lot faster.

    Thanks Ferris!
    Can you tell me how many seconds it takes for your window to go up and down since you replaced the sliders? I'd like to make a comparison to mine.
    Fleet:
    2003 BMW Z4 Roadster 3.0i
    2013 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Lancaster, PA
    Posts
    467
    My Cars
    2003 BMW Z4 Roasdter
    Ferris,

    Thanks for the great DIY! I did this today and completed both doors in 2 hours. Much easier than I had anticipated after reading the replies on this discussion string. The hardest part was getting the top edge of the door panel to pop into the rubber seal at the top edge of the door. Thanks for your help.
    Fleet:
    2003 BMW Z4 Roadster 3.0i
    2013 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited

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